How To: Change Brake Pads

[MajesticBlueNTO]

This was getting buried in the EBC Greenstuff thread, so I started a thread for those that wanted to know how a rear pad change is done.

Below are the steps I followed to perform the install. I\\\'ve included what the Service Manual states and added some of my own findings.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_173_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_172_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_174_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_175_full.jpg

1. Ensure the parking brake is not engaged, block front wheels off with some bricks, jack up the car, support with jack stands, remove the wheel.

2. Remove the cap from the caliper bolt cover to get access to the caliper bolt - both top and bottom.

3. Excuse the crappy picture, but the caliper bolt is a #7 Hex head
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_164_full.jpg

4. Loosen and remove the caliper bolts (socket wrench works best here) and take note of which bolt belongs on the top and bottom.

5. Remove the retainer spring (item 4 in the 1st pic) - a set of pliers works best here.

6. Lift the caliper up - you will now have access to the pads.

7. Remove the outer pad from the caliper mounting bracket (it just slides right out).

8. The inner pad may be on the caliper or it may be on the mounting bracket. If it is stuck to the caliper, pull down on the pad (it is attached via spring clips). If it is on the mounting bracket, remove just like the outer pad by sliding it out.

9. Now you will have to get the piston back in to clear the new pads. This is done via a combination of turning and pushing.

10. Open the brake master cylinder reservoir cover to relieve the pressure in the system.

11. Using a set of needle nose pliers:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_168_full.jpg

Set the needle nose tips into the piston grooves:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_167_full.jpg

and turn clockwise while pushing on the piston. It may take some force, so if you notice the piston not retracting, push harder.

Be careful the pliers don\\\'t slip and cut the rubber piston boot

12. Once the piston is compressed, tighten the cover on the master cylinder, and follow step 4 in the 4th pic above (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_175_full.jpg).

Align the spring clips on the back of the pad to the piston and push up
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_154_full.jpg

the pad should snap into place onto the piston.

13. Slide the new outer pad into the mounting bracket.

14. Apply some \"anti-squeal\" to the outer pad (I used some Permatex stuff bought at Canadian Tire):
http://www.permatex.com/images/catalog/special/82017.jpg

and reinstall the caliper onto the bracket (placing it over the outer pad):
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_170_full.jpg

15. Replace the retaining clip.

16. Replace the top and bottom caliper bolts. Hand thread them first - you may have to move the caliper until the bolts catch. Tighten the bolts to 19-22 ft-lbs.

17. Replace the cap on the caliper bolt cover.

18. Reinstall the wheel, tighten the lugs, lower the car, torque the lugs to ~80ft-lbs.

19. If you live in a house with a tiny garage that can only do one wheel at a time (like me), pump the brake pedal a few times before and after you start the car. This includes when the other side is complete - pump before moving the car.

20. Repeat the steps on the next side.

Note: the Service Manual states to remove the parking brake cable from the caliper; this is not necessary.

After all is said and done, EBC advises to drive gently for the first few hundred kms. But before doing so, they give an initial bedding procedure as follows (find a clear stretch of road where this can be done):

* get the car up to ~60km/h and brake gently to a stop.
* repeat approx. 5 times with applying more pressure (i.e. stopping over a shorter distance) each stop with approx. one minute intervals in between.

Hope this helps 8)

the following pics show the wear on the stock pads after 56,800kms. I was actually surprised at how much was left after 56.8K with >90% highway driving:

Driver\'s side outer pad
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_165_full.jpg

Driver\'s side inner pad
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_166_full.jpg

Rear pads
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/337000-337999/337094_171_full.jpg

Needless to say, I\'m glad I changed them.

[wtom]

Stickified

[wtom]

Just wanted to add the front pads are pretty much the same process minus the inner pad;

- to remove, you'll have to apply pressure to pop the pad off the piston; it's held in place by the clips
- piston can be compressed using C-clamp and a wedge over the piston itself; that or use a caliper tool kit!!!
- to reinstall the inner pad, just push it into the piston
- be very careful of the brake line!!! there's not much give nor slack to work with

Pics of my entire brake pad swap here (http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=1665&l=46666&id=518705291).

[wtom]

^^^ my apologies, link is "dead" as I've deleted my Facebook account.

[Wild Weasel]

If anyone wasn't aware, I've archived a full install guide with pics here:

http://www.wildweasel.ca/HowTo/Auto/Mazda3/BrakeInstall.aspx

Enjoy. :)

[condor888000]

I used WW's guide in Jan, awesome is all I can say. Tells you everything you need to know.

[JaYson]

Question: to torque down the Hex bolts and/or the Caliper bracket bolts, is it necessary to have one of those universal joints in order to get the torque wrench back there? I just wanna have all the tools before i start taking stuff apart

[SomeGuy]

Even with a u-joint I doubt you'll get a proper torque wrench on the slide pins and be able to use it accurately..the couple times I've seen it done or done it myself I've always just snugged them up to what feels appropriate...it's likely a bit more torque than necessary but really only makes it a pain in the butt next time you want to get them out (obv so long as you don't strip shit and get overly happy with the wrench).

Also, this guide didn't say it but you definitely want to clean and then re-grease those pins (the bolts with the hex head) because they're known to seize.

[JaYson]

awesome thanks for the advice (before i went out to buy some Ujoints lol)

additionally, 2 questions:

1) what kind of lube would u use on that pins? copper anti-seize? or a certain type of grease/lube?

2) is it infact a 7mm Hex/allen? or a 45 Torx Bit? because I've seen guides instructing both....i know i could go "check" but i dont feel like taking off my wheel just to check lol


thanks in advance

[SomeGuy]

1) There is a lube out there specifically for caliper slides, if you don't use it you risk damaging the parts and having your brakes seize. You can just ask/look for caliper lube and should find what you need. It goes on the shiny metal slidey part and not the threads, for the threads I suppose a dab of anti-seize wouldn't hurt.

2) I think it depends on your year and model...I know my old car was the 7mm hex but I recall the 04 GT that I helped someone with (he did most of it) might have been torx. Probably best to check, wheel off, pop the boot and have a peek.


I'm sure there are other members on here who have more experience at this then me and could give you better directions. As always with brakes, be careful and don't do anything if you're feeling iffy about it, they're kind of important!

[JaYson]

awesome, thanks for the info.

Yeah, i trying to gather as much information as possible first. then i'll also either run it all by my bother in law (mechanic) or i'll just bribe him with beer to supervise while i do it.