Gizzmo_jr
05-09-2007, 01:05 AM
Bumper
1. Remove the 11 8mm (or phillips) screws on the bottom of the bumper.
http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm02.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_02.jpg)
2. Remove the two big phillips screws by the hood latch
3. Remove the two big plastic with rubber bumpers (use a small flat head to pop up the collar, then pull the entire thing out)
http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm04.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_04.jpg)
4. Take off the two plastic phillips clips holding the mud shield back in the wheel well towards the front. (per side)
http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm01.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_01.jpg)
5. Pull back the shield alittle and you'll see another 8mm screw by the bumper seam, take it off. (per side)
http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm03.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_03.jpg)
6. Bumper is now free but still hanging in place. By the hood latch will be two big hooks that clip onto the sub frame. After you slightly pull these up the bumper is now in your hands.
http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm05.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_05.jpg) http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm10.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_10.jpg)
7. Remove the wiring for fog lights if applicable. And all other wiring. Set bumper aside.
Headlight
8. There are 3 10mm bolts holding on the headlight. One is ontop quite visible. One right infront (bumper) inside the black thatched part on the bottom of the headlight. Another is off to the side.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/HLremoval-1.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/HLremoval-2.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/HLremoval-3.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/HLremoval-4.jpg
9. Pull towards the front (to clear the fender) and unclip the high/low beams and you can either unclip or remove the turn signal assembly (what I did, since its not halogen)
Baking
10. Take off all 4 rubber vent lines off the headlight.
11. Take off all the rubber surrounds where the lights plug in.
12. On the bottom of the headlight assembly is a large plastic 'frame'. One phillips holds it on, then there are pressure clips on either side.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/HLBremoval.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/Blacksku11/Halos19.jpg
13. Pre heat your oven to 200.
14. Toss the headlight onto a baking sheet, and then into the oven. Make sure you HAVE the baking sheet, and that the light doesn't touch any of the sides of the oven if possible. If you can't close the door, that's ok. Mine worked just fine with the door open a crack.
15. Wait 15minutes.
16. MUCH MUCH easier with a friend, grab the headlight and work from the low beam side first. One person pull as another un-clips the clips with a flat head. Work 'semi' fast as the epoxy will start to cool and harden. Having a heat gun with you is beneficial in case.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/Blacksku11/TylerandTsHalos34.jpg
17. Remove the phillips screw holding the middle piece to the outside clear part.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/Blacksku11/Halos28-1.jpg
18. AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE to touching the inside of the clear housing. Finger prints are your enemy.
19. Pop off the high/low chrome rings on the middle glossy part. Both are held in from the backside with plastic pressure clips.
http://img350.imageshack.us/img350/8407/IMG_2037Medium.jpg
Angel Eyes
20. Place the rings where you want them. The low beam is pretty obvious, but the high beam will seem it sticks out a little (thats ok). USE SILICONE AND NOT THE TAPE (clear drying kind. I used GE type2). Can't stress this enough, I've read peoples rings coming off cause the tape doesn't hold so save yourself the hassle please. Place a 1/8th inch bead where the ring will touch then use zip ties to hold it securely for about 30min. (silicone is tack-free in 30min, full cure in 24hours)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/Blacksku11/Halos38.jpg
21. Notch the spot where it's flat (between the high and low) to get the set of wires for the low beam to fit nicely.
22. Pop both rings back onto the housing.
23. Run the high beam ring wires in behind the high beam chrome housing and out where the rubber seal goes.
24. Run the low beam ring wires in behind the low beam projector housing and out where the rubber seal goes.
25. Clean off the chrome, black gloss, etc of all dirt and finger prints. Check 3 times cause it'll bug you to do this all over again.
26. Attach the black middle piece to the outside clear part with the phillips.
27. Set the two halves side by side relatively in place where they once were.
28. Oven again for 15min at 200.
29. Take out and press as hard as you can to fit the headlight into the grove. One corner goes in pretty deep, and catch all the clips if you can. If you hear popping thats good, your forcing out air bubbles in the epoxy.
30. (Optional) Apply a bead of silicone to the entire outside ring if you think the seal wasn't water proof.
Reinstall
31. Reinstall all rubber pieces, headlight bulbs, plastic frame bit.
(Note, the angel eye wireing should come out beside the holes for the stock bulbs, so the rubber cap still works just as it's meant to.)
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/5316/lightsu7.jpg
32. Re installation of headlight is opposite to removal.
33. Repeat other headlight.
34. Re installation of bumper is opposite to removal. (Note, the mud guard on the car goes under and over along the bottom of the bumper. It's semi obvious how it goes together)
35. Pray no screws left over.
Wiring
36. Assuming you already checked that they work. My procedure is without a wiring harness. Just a 12v and Ground per ballast.
37. Secure the ballasts to the car using zip ties. Then connect the wires from the angel eyes (coming out of the headlights) to the ballasts.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/ballast-topview.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/ballast-insideview.jpg
38. Connect the ground to any local frame/metal/something bolt thus it will ground to the chassis/frame. I grounded it to the spot below. Make sure to ground it to a spot which touches a metal part of the car. You simply remove the screw, place the round connector around the screw and then screw it back in. I did this for each ballast.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/groundingwire.jpg
39. The next step was to connect the positive wires from each ballast together. Cut one piece of the wire which was long enough to span the entire width of the car from headlight to headlight and add a bit of length just in case. Run it along the radiator upper frame.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/wireoverview.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/powerconnectionrightside.jpg
40. Run the power wire to the top left empty fuse holder (when looking from the top, over the driver fender). Because of the size of the connector, you have to use scissors to cut a piece of the metal off so that it would fit properly in the fuse box. Start by cutting off only a small piece and then keep trimming it until it fit perfectly. Here is a picture of the original connector next to the cut one
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/powerconnectorCU.jpg
http://img350.imageshack.us/img350/6972/IMG_2047Medium.jpg
41. Suggested you put in a switch in the power wire, and an inline fuse holder (5A i'm told. They don't draw very much)
42. Other suggestions would be wire into the fog light circuit or the running light circuit.
43. Await night time and enjoy
Took my post from another thread, and put it into the FAQ/tutorials section for easier finding. This is my TM3 edition because it's a full tutorial, not just headlight/bumper removal, just baking headlights, or just installing the angel eyes. Thus the words are my own, pictures taken from alternate sources.
Please post up questions if you got them. Hope I can help.
Threads pictures taken from (some)
Link #1 : http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=41782.msg612207#msg612207 Thank you sok07 for permission to use the pictures.
Link #2 : http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=69613.0;all Thank you No Clue for permission to use the pictures
Link #3 : http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=192788&postcount=27 Thank you rsquared for permission to use the pictures, and the addition to the "Wiring" section.
1. Remove the 11 8mm (or phillips) screws on the bottom of the bumper.
http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm02.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_02.jpg)
2. Remove the two big phillips screws by the hood latch
3. Remove the two big plastic with rubber bumpers (use a small flat head to pop up the collar, then pull the entire thing out)
http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm04.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_04.jpg)
4. Take off the two plastic phillips clips holding the mud shield back in the wheel well towards the front. (per side)
http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm01.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_01.jpg)
5. Pull back the shield alittle and you'll see another 8mm screw by the bumper seam, take it off. (per side)
http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm03.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_03.jpg)
6. Bumper is now free but still hanging in place. By the hood latch will be two big hooks that clip onto the sub frame. After you slightly pull these up the bumper is now in your hands.
http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm05.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_05.jpg) http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_sm10.jpg (http://www.sok07.trapzerohosting.net/Mazda3s/FrontBumper/Mz3_sok07_Fbprrmvl_10.jpg)
7. Remove the wiring for fog lights if applicable. And all other wiring. Set bumper aside.
Headlight
8. There are 3 10mm bolts holding on the headlight. One is ontop quite visible. One right infront (bumper) inside the black thatched part on the bottom of the headlight. Another is off to the side.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/HLremoval-1.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/HLremoval-2.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/HLremoval-3.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/HLremoval-4.jpg
9. Pull towards the front (to clear the fender) and unclip the high/low beams and you can either unclip or remove the turn signal assembly (what I did, since its not halogen)
Baking
10. Take off all 4 rubber vent lines off the headlight.
11. Take off all the rubber surrounds where the lights plug in.
12. On the bottom of the headlight assembly is a large plastic 'frame'. One phillips holds it on, then there are pressure clips on either side.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/HLBremoval.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/Blacksku11/Halos19.jpg
13. Pre heat your oven to 200.
14. Toss the headlight onto a baking sheet, and then into the oven. Make sure you HAVE the baking sheet, and that the light doesn't touch any of the sides of the oven if possible. If you can't close the door, that's ok. Mine worked just fine with the door open a crack.
15. Wait 15minutes.
16. MUCH MUCH easier with a friend, grab the headlight and work from the low beam side first. One person pull as another un-clips the clips with a flat head. Work 'semi' fast as the epoxy will start to cool and harden. Having a heat gun with you is beneficial in case.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/Blacksku11/TylerandTsHalos34.jpg
17. Remove the phillips screw holding the middle piece to the outside clear part.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/Blacksku11/Halos28-1.jpg
18. AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE to touching the inside of the clear housing. Finger prints are your enemy.
19. Pop off the high/low chrome rings on the middle glossy part. Both are held in from the backside with plastic pressure clips.
http://img350.imageshack.us/img350/8407/IMG_2037Medium.jpg
Angel Eyes
20. Place the rings where you want them. The low beam is pretty obvious, but the high beam will seem it sticks out a little (thats ok). USE SILICONE AND NOT THE TAPE (clear drying kind. I used GE type2). Can't stress this enough, I've read peoples rings coming off cause the tape doesn't hold so save yourself the hassle please. Place a 1/8th inch bead where the ring will touch then use zip ties to hold it securely for about 30min. (silicone is tack-free in 30min, full cure in 24hours)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/Blacksku11/Halos38.jpg
21. Notch the spot where it's flat (between the high and low) to get the set of wires for the low beam to fit nicely.
22. Pop both rings back onto the housing.
23. Run the high beam ring wires in behind the high beam chrome housing and out where the rubber seal goes.
24. Run the low beam ring wires in behind the low beam projector housing and out where the rubber seal goes.
25. Clean off the chrome, black gloss, etc of all dirt and finger prints. Check 3 times cause it'll bug you to do this all over again.
26. Attach the black middle piece to the outside clear part with the phillips.
27. Set the two halves side by side relatively in place where they once were.
28. Oven again for 15min at 200.
29. Take out and press as hard as you can to fit the headlight into the grove. One corner goes in pretty deep, and catch all the clips if you can. If you hear popping thats good, your forcing out air bubbles in the epoxy.
30. (Optional) Apply a bead of silicone to the entire outside ring if you think the seal wasn't water proof.
Reinstall
31. Reinstall all rubber pieces, headlight bulbs, plastic frame bit.
(Note, the angel eye wireing should come out beside the holes for the stock bulbs, so the rubber cap still works just as it's meant to.)
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/5316/lightsu7.jpg
32. Re installation of headlight is opposite to removal.
33. Repeat other headlight.
34. Re installation of bumper is opposite to removal. (Note, the mud guard on the car goes under and over along the bottom of the bumper. It's semi obvious how it goes together)
35. Pray no screws left over.
Wiring
36. Assuming you already checked that they work. My procedure is without a wiring harness. Just a 12v and Ground per ballast.
37. Secure the ballasts to the car using zip ties. Then connect the wires from the angel eyes (coming out of the headlights) to the ballasts.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/ballast-topview.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/ballast-insideview.jpg
38. Connect the ground to any local frame/metal/something bolt thus it will ground to the chassis/frame. I grounded it to the spot below. Make sure to ground it to a spot which touches a metal part of the car. You simply remove the screw, place the round connector around the screw and then screw it back in. I did this for each ballast.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/groundingwire.jpg
39. The next step was to connect the positive wires from each ballast together. Cut one piece of the wire which was long enough to span the entire width of the car from headlight to headlight and add a bit of length just in case. Run it along the radiator upper frame.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/wireoverview.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/powerconnectionrightside.jpg
40. Run the power wire to the top left empty fuse holder (when looking from the top, over the driver fender). Because of the size of the connector, you have to use scissors to cut a piece of the metal off so that it would fit properly in the fuse box. Start by cutting off only a small piece and then keep trimming it until it fit perfectly. Here is a picture of the original connector next to the cut one
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a6/r2traps/angeleyes/powerconnectorCU.jpg
http://img350.imageshack.us/img350/6972/IMG_2047Medium.jpg
41. Suggested you put in a switch in the power wire, and an inline fuse holder (5A i'm told. They don't draw very much)
42. Other suggestions would be wire into the fog light circuit or the running light circuit.
43. Await night time and enjoy
Took my post from another thread, and put it into the FAQ/tutorials section for easier finding. This is my TM3 edition because it's a full tutorial, not just headlight/bumper removal, just baking headlights, or just installing the angel eyes. Thus the words are my own, pictures taken from alternate sources.
Please post up questions if you got them. Hope I can help.
Threads pictures taken from (some)
Link #1 : http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=41782.msg612207#msg612207 Thank you sok07 for permission to use the pictures.
Link #2 : http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=69613.0;all Thank you No Clue for permission to use the pictures
Link #3 : http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=192788&postcount=27 Thank you rsquared for permission to use the pictures, and the addition to the "Wiring" section.