Track Prep Thread

[Fuman]

Mazda 3 / Mazdaspeed 3:

Things to do to your car before Track

Check Fluid levels (Engine, Transmission, Brake, Steering, windshield wiper, coolant)
Brake Fluid FAQ: http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=19508

Make sure Engine/Transmission/Brake fluids are in fresh.
Inflate to your preference of Tire PSI (For noobs on RS/As 39 Front, 37 Rear, or 40/38)
Check Brake pads to see if you have enough material (OEM pads will do for beginners)
Make sure your tires are balanced
Rotors are in good working order
Wheel Nuts are torque correctly
Remove all unnecessary items (your spare tire and tire changing equipment is necessary)
Proper alignment
List of places to do alignment: http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=25372
Remember to fill up (gasoline)
If you have ANY part of your car that is NOT road worthy, leave it at home


Things to do at Track

Check tire pressure, fluids after runs.
Do NOT engage the parking brake after runs


Things to Bring to Track

Some sort of tape (tape up your plates and any other area you want)
Bring a Jacket/Umbrella (depending on weather)
Water
Food (if not provided)
Bring extra engine oil (in case your car burns oil)


Things to do/watch out for after track

Reset your tire PSI back to street levels
Watch out for glazing brake pads (OEM pads WILL glaze) Glaze should be gone after a few days of regular driving
Check fluid levels. Depending on how fresh your fluids were before track, you may want to change them
Rotate tires if needed


Remember to do warm-up and cool-down lap(s)


Mazda 3 specific:

Mazdaspeed 3 specific:

Feel free to add to the list, I'll update the list as ppl post up things I missed

[Fuman]

sticky worthy?

[Fobio]

Sticky!

more to come!

[Elder_MMHS]

Let the engine run for a few minutes after returning from your cool down lap to the paddock and make sure you pop your hood. I'm betting this is particularly important for an MS3 with a hot turbo and intercooler.

Do not pull the parking brake after the race. Let your brakes cool down.

Always arrive with a full tank of gas. The last thing you want is to have to leave and come back for fuel.

Inspect your tire pressures between runs. Racing can increase them drastically. Last year when I ran at Mission Raceway out here in the west, my front tire pressures went up about 8-10psi on their own. Granted, Mission is known to be hard on brakes and thus generate a lot of heat in the wheel wells.

After running, you'll likely want to swap your front and rear tires.

[Fuman]

updated

[whiteomega]

if i want to take my '06 to the track, and i've never switched engine/tranny/brake fluids, should i be? i'm not planning on serious racing; just lapping.

[Fuman]

if i want to take my '06 to the track, and i've never switched engine/tranny/brake fluids, should i be? i'm not planning on serious racing; just lapping.

i'm not sure what you mean by switched

[whiteomega]

i'm not sure what you mean by switched

i've never flushed/replaced any of the fluids. i'm kind of worried that if i go to the track now something bad might happen :P

[Fuman]

i've never flushed/replaced any of the fluids. i'm kind of worried that if i go to the track now something bad might happen :P

you have never even replaced engine fluid?
is your car used or new?
when did you buy it?

[whiteomega]

i bought it new; it's an 06 and has only 28000 km on it (i don't drive it much). I've changed the oil but that's it. No steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant, transmission oil (manual), etc. if i don't need to change those (aside from the engine oil) before track day, then i'm fine :)

Edit: i've basically done all the required owner maintenance i need to given the mileage on the car and the age of the car; but what i'm trying to find out is if i need to do more (complete service basically) before i go to the track. i'm already planning on changing the oil, rotating the tyres, inspecting the brakes and fluid levels before i get there. what else is necessary?

[Fobio]

i bought it new; it's an 06 and has only 28000 km on it (i don't drive it much). I've changed the oil but that's it. No steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant, transmission oil (manual), etc. if i don't need to change those (aside from the engine oil) before track day, then i'm fine :)

Edit: i've basically done all the required owner maintenance i need to given the mileage on the car and the age of the car; but what i'm trying to find out is if i need to do more (complete service basically) before i go to the track. i'm already planning on changing the oil, rotating the tyres, inspecting the brakes and fluid levels before i get there. what else is necessary?

in that case, I'd say you're good. ensuring your car is in good running order is the bare minimum, as once you are accustomed to track condition, you'll likely start to push the limits of your car...and so in the long run, you want your fluids to be able to keep up...

I have upgraded my brake fluid to non-silicone synthetic high temp and running Mobil 1 engine oil, and those are all the fluids I'll likely need to upgrade.

[Fuman]

i bought it new; it's an 06 and has only 28000 km on it (i don't drive it much). I've changed the oil but that's it. No steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant, transmission oil (manual), etc. if i don't need to change those (aside from the engine oil) before track day, then i'm fine :)

Edit: i've basically done all the required owner maintenance i need to given the mileage on the car and the age of the car; but what i'm trying to find out is if i need to do more (complete service basically) before i go to the track. i'm already planning on changing the oil, rotating the tyres, inspecting the brakes and fluid levels before i get there. what else is necessary?
I'm unsure as how you have driven your car. I would check with your mechanic to see if you need your brakes to be bled or flushed. I would also check to see if your transmission fluid is in good working order. (a rule of thumb is, transmission dipstick reads full, fluid is red and no burning smell. Ask your mechanic to make sure your transmission fluid is good to go.).

If your engine oil is ALMOST due, change it before going to the track as well. If it is relatively new, I would change it soon after the track day (if you are on dino juice)

[Elder_MMHS]

Erring on the side of caution and safety for a track day, I have been taught/instructed to always flush brake fluid and use something with a high boiling point (Motul RBF600 or ATE Super Blue come to mind). Dry boiling point is important if you swap fluid frequently, otherwise wet boiling point is more important for longevity. Also, give your car a relatively recent oil change - i.e. within the last couple thousand kilometres.

Performance summer tires are always good not so much for traction, but so that they don't overheat and get slick. Same goes for getting uprated brake pads like Hawk HP+. The Mazda3 has big brakes for a car its size and power output.

Heat management seems to be pretty important on the track. I've only been out twice but I've been told enough stories about drivers having to baby brakes in afternoon sessions because their braking system has been overworked/underprepared. You don't necessarily want to stop sooner or grip harder if you're just out there for entertainment, but you do want the car to have the endurance to last the entire day.

[doughboyr6]

I don't know if this is applicable, but i'll throw it out there. From my experience with track days (for bikes), in addition to taping up plates, we tape up the headlights as well. So if in the event of a crash, there aren't a million little plastic shards on the road. Make sure you take out the fuse or have your headlights off because it will melt the tape onto the lens and a pain to scrape off after.

We were always recommended to tape up the speedo as well, but i guess that's optional.

[whiteomega]

why do you tape up/remove your plates for the track?

also, being my first track day, i won't be pushing hard on the track; just going to lap and get consistent results before i try and go faster. in that case, i should be ok not flushing the brake fluid and replacing with something better, especially if i only do 3-4 laps then cool off, right?

[Fobio]

^^

chk out my pics...I love my plates, so I wouldn't want unnecessary bug splatters all over them... ;)

if this is your first time out and you're committed to preserving your car (ie. brake early, easy on the tires going in and out of corners, etc.) then your stock fluids can definitely handle 3 - 4 laps...10 - 12 laps in the hot will overwork your brakes if you're trying to beat the lap record...

I've upgraded my brake fluid to ELF Frelub 650. And for its price, its spec are right up there. As well, I'm committed to regular ffluid changes and will likely change all my fluids once a year anyway. If after your first time out, you think that you'll be doing this more and pushing your own envelope, then yes, upgrade your brakes (ss brake lines, fluid, pads).

OEM coolant is good, but if others know better pls correct me. I'm currently thinking about changing the transmission fluid.

[Fuman]

^^
OEM coolant is good, but if others know better pls correct me. I'm currently thinking about changing the transmission fluid.
you should get an engine oil temp gauge for your car, if you are going to track a lot.

[Elder_MMHS]

also, being my first track day, i won't be pushing hard on the track; just going to lap and get consistent results before i try and go faster. in that case, i should be ok not flushing the brake fluid and replacing with something better, especially if i only do 3-4 laps then cool off, right?

That really depends on the track and how hard you drive. You always want excess heat capacity. You can always try to run with stock brakes and fluid and that's your choice. There's no way I'd do or recommend it myself, though. I personally think it's unsafe and ultimately, it won't be fun. My motorsport club wouldn't pass your car on the tech inspection without at least a flush on higher capacity fluid. Why take the chance? Something decent like ATE Super Blue is $15 a litre. Labour to get it done is probably around $50. A litre will get you a full fluid replacement - not just a flush.

You'll also want to research how the sessions of your track day will be run. The couple days I've attended have all been 20 - 25 minute sessions, which at my local track consisted of at least 15 laps if you're on full time. No one pits unless you have a problem because you want to maximize your time on the track.

In short, if you don't want to upgrade your braking system, then you better know your car's limits, be extremely disciplined about your driving effort in both acceleration and braking, know the passing zones of the track and also how to do point-by passes for people who are going to be lapping faster.

[whiteomega]

i know the limits of my car in street driving, and despite having not been to the track yet, i would assume they are different on the track. part of going to the track is finding the limits; that means for the first few track days i do participate in, i'm going to be exploring the limits, but trying quite hard to stay well below them until i'm comfortable. for the first day, i'll try and manage with the standard brake fluid, because like i said, i'm not going to deliberately try and push the limits. it doesn't make sense to do so until i'm comfortable with the car. at that point, i'll change fluids. (i may have to after the day anyway)

[Marsh]

i know the limits of my car in street driving, and despite having not been to the track yet, i would assume they are different on the track. part of going to the track is finding the limits; that means for the first few track days i do participate in, i'm going to be exploring the limits, but trying quite hard to stay well below them until i'm comfortable. for the first day, i'll try and manage with the standard brake fluid, because like i said, i'm not going to deliberately try and push the limits. it doesn't make sense to do so until i'm comfortable with the car. at that point, i'll change fluids. (i may have to after the day anyway)

I recommend putting in fresh brake fluid before every lapping day. You will be alarmed how easy it is to cook the brakes in most modern cars. Solosprint regulations require that brake fluid be no older than 6 months.

No offense, but if you've never been to the track you do NOT know what the limits of a car are (street or otherwise). The first thing you realize in competition is just how bad you really were before going to a track.

[whiteomega]

I recommend putting in fresh brake fluid before every lapping day. You will be alarmed how easy it is to cook the brakes in most modern cars. Solosprint regulations require that brake fluid be no older than 6 months.


Thanks; I'll do that the next time I go. As for the regulations..see below :)



No offense, but if you've never been to the track you do NOT know what the limits of a car are (street or otherwise). The first thing you realize in competition is just how bad you really were before going to a track.

I guess I wasn't totally clear; I know the limits of my car as they pertain to street driving (ie: running errands, commuting, etc). For example: I know what kind of gap I need to make a left-hand turn, both in the dry, and in the wet. To me, this is not the same as racing limits, street or otherwise (and street racing is something I will never attempt, for all the obvious reasons).

My intention is not to compete in motorsports; it never has been. For me, going to the track is a way to have fun and explore the racing limits of my car in a safe, controlled way. How good or bad I am is irrelevant to me right now; I just want to have fun :)

[Fobio]

I'd like to add:

Wash your car, if you can, before going out on a track. It encourages you to inspect your vehicle closely....and also make for nicer pictures.

[maplephin]

Always arrive with a full tank of gas. The last thing you want is to have to leave and come back for fuel.

Just try and get a full day at the track on a tank of gas with the MS3. I average somewhere between 70 & 100km before the fuel light is screaming at me!! Bring a jerry can of gas at the minimum:whoa

[EastYork3]

Just curious but why is it bad to engage the parking brake after a run?

[Fuman]

Just curious but why is it bad to engage the parking brake after a run?

it may stick

[maplephin]

I'm not positive, but I think it can warp the rotor as well.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Just curious but why is it bad to engage the parking brake after a run?

your pads will be hot and, by applying the parking brake, you're setting the hot pads against a rotor that will now cool at different rates across its surface.

the area where the pads are will have localized pad material transfer to the rotor which, after all is said and done, is usually felt as a "warped rotor".

[speed77]

Just curious but why is it bad to engage the parking brake after a run?

It's a great way to "warp" your rotors.

Long story short, brake pads transfer a thin even layer of meterial to the rotor surface when they get hot. This is why you "bed in" new brakes pads and rotors. When you come off the trackand everything is still hot, setting the parking brake deposits a layer of pad meterial on only one section of the rotor face, when it cools and you drive the car again, you feel a pulsation in the pedal due to the uneven layer of material on the disc, it feels like warped rotors.

[speed77]

I just read the post by MajesticBlueNTO after I made my post, sorry to repeat....

[Kinn]

I'd like to add:

Wash your car, if you can, before going out on a track. It encourages you to inspect your vehicle closely....and also make for nicer pictures.


clean cars go faster...proven fact!

LOL! at least it always seems like that to me!

[SKYMP3]

Just try and get a full day at the track on a tank of gas with the MS3. I average somewhere between 70 & 100km before the fuel light is screaming at me!! Bring a jerry can of gas at the minimum:whoa

You mean the MS3 runs 70-100km with a full tank of gas when driving on the track? Are you serious lol?
Does the MS3 racers put 94 octane?

[Fobio]

You mean the MS3 runs 70-100km with a full tank of gas when driving on the track? Are you serious lol?
Does the MS3 racers put 94 octane?

ok...maplephin is correct, but it depends on what track you're going to and what you're doing, and the tune of your car.

without getting into too deep, let's just say you will be fine at track school with one full tank of gas...

however, if you're lapping or racing, you'll likely use up one full tank if not more, if you run hard between 9am - 5pm...

with regards to tuning, stock MS3 runs rich...a proper tune, from my experience, will save you about 20 - 25% in gas while maintaining same or improving performance...this is also assuming your suspension is properly set-up and you're not hammering it out of a corner spinning tires for no reason...

anyway, bring a jerry can if you're worried...the closest Sunocco to Mosport is about 10min away.

and lastly...yes, a properly tuned MS3 can and should run 94 to maximize EFFICIENCY.

[shu5892001]

Is it really bad to track in an ATX?

[Fobio]

Is it really bad to track in an ATX?

No...many have done it...at the end of the day, it's not about what car you drive, it's about HOW you drive...that skill can then be carried over onto any other car you will drive in the future.

[starscream]

I found this in one of the SOLO Sprint sections, basically tech inspections. Should be a good guide as to what we should also be checking, some may not pertain to us but none the less its still through and good.

PLEASE CHECK OFF (
) ALL ITEMS INSPECTED AND IN SATISFACTORY CONDITION.
INDICATE WITH AN (X) IF NOT INSPECTED OR NOT IN GOOD CONDITION and REPLACE or REPAIR.
SoloSprint Annual Inspection Checklist
(Appendix B of Entry Form)

1. BRAKES: VERY IMPORTANT!
( ) Friction Materials: pads, shoes; >50% material,
in good condition
( ) Calipers: no leaks, operating freely, attachment hardware OK
( ) Steel lines: fittings, attachments, no apparent corrosion
( ) Flexible lines: no apparent cracks, fittings in good condition
( ) Brake fluid: was changed with in the last 6 months
( ) 15 second static brake test: pedal firm with no loss of
pressure

2. STEERING & SUSPENSION
( ) Ball joints or swivel point: within wear specifications, grease
seals intact, attachment secure
( ) Idler arm, pitman arm, links and tie rod or link ends: within
the wear limit, secure attachment, seals intact
( ) Bearings: hubs properly adjusted with no excess play or wear,
cotter pins or locking devices where required
( ) General condition of system: springs, shocks, bushings frame
attachments, anti sway bar mounting, etc.

3. TIRES AND WHEELS (MUST BE WHEELS AND TIRES USED
FOR COMPETITION)
( ) Wheels: in good condition with no apparent cracks, good
valves
( ) All studs or nuts: present and in good condition, with
sufficient threading and length for safe attachment
( ) Tires: no cord showing, no cuts, no interference with body or
fender through reasonable range of motion

4. DRIVELINE
( ) Transmission: no apparent leaks, cracks or missing fasteners
( ) Driveshaft(s), u joints, cv joints: no excess wear, grease seals
intact
( ) Rear axle, final drive: no apparent leaking, seals intact, no
cracks in unit, axle end play within specifications

5. FUEL SYSTEM
( ) Gas tank or fuel cell: no leaks, attachment secure, cap present
( ) Fuel lines: in good condition, no leaks or excessive corrosion
( ) Fuel filter(s): clamps on flex hose, no cracks or leaks
( ) Fuel delivery line (to carburetor or fi systems): no leaking,
safe routing (multiple carbs)
( ) Carburetor, fuel injection systems, injectors: no apparent
leaks

6. OTHER
( ) Battery: securely mounted; no movement
( ) Hood latching mechanism and lock: in good working order
( ) Floor pan and body panels: no rust perforation or apparent
loss of integrity, no loose, jagged or missing parts
( ) Brake light: operational
( ) Engine: no apparent major oil leaks
( ) Exhaust system: no leaks to passenger compartment, safe
exit from under body

7. SAFETY EQUIPMENT
( ) OEM 3 point seatbelt assembly, properly attached
( ) Aftermarket seatbelt/harness, properly attached, min.
Grade 5 fasteners
( ) Roll bar/cage (if applicable): Securely mounted and padded
where necessary
( ) Fire extinguisher: securely mounted and fully charged (if
present)
( ) Window net: secure (if applicable)
( ) Helmet in good condition

[thanu31]

Just wondering about things to look out for after tracking.

So far this summer, my car has seen 4 track sessions, and its been driven pretty dam hard. I have had no issues that have arisen (knock on wood), and I would like to keep it that way.

Is there anything I should be looking out for or checking on in terms of preventive maintenance? And also anything I should look into upgrading to suit the high amounts of track time my car will be seeing?

[thekid]

^ You probably want to just do an overall inspection of your brake system, look closely at the rotors to make sure they aren't spider cracking from the extra stresses of the high heat, make sure you have adequate friction material on your pads, and that they're wearing evenly, inspect the rubber boots on the calipers (these often belt, but are easily replaced now to avoid a future seized caliper), and bleed your brakes!

It's also worth taking a closer look at your wheels to ensure there are no hairline cracks developing. Check your Oil!

[standsideways]

Heres what ive learned from tracking mazda 3's

Check all your coolant lines an the thermostat gasket, even if your coolant level is perfect it may be leaking slightly at high temp on track.or just overrunning a bit.

Brake fluid is stupid to check on our cars because of our dumb little reservoir, mine gets fillled to the top and then a sweatband for your wrist goes on it incase it spills out as brake fluid likes to do.Not fun on a glowing red turbo.

Since our cars blow up easy with an oil shortage, ide suggest a balance shaft delete for the added oil capacity.and our pickup isnt getting much on hardhard left corners so a baffle of some kind would be a great safeguard for your engine.

Our stock brakes arent enough
For the track,unless you wanna glaze the pads and come off the track smoking lol.

Both auto and manual are fine for the track, but the auto will overheat on hot days(youll know because it wont let you use the sport mode)

Oem clutch isnt great for the track but will work fine. Just dont go from a race clutch to oem and expect anythin comparable.short shifter is good but dont be trying to ultra quick shift @7000rpm, be consistent,and make sure you dont miss a shift.

Ide also suggest KEEPING YOUR SPARE TIRE untill you know the car and track because let me tell you my car is very very tail happy on hard corners with banking. Learn when its
Gonna step out then start removing weight.

Also dont track with rs-a's. Nuf said there.

Oil temp,pressure, and water temp(coolant) are HIGHLY suggested. DONT trust your factory weighted gauge. It lies untill it gets caught and then says OH BY THE WAYYY TOO HOT(our cooling systems are good for near the 500hp range, tripoint used the oem till it wouldent work,as with our intake mani, its good untill high high boost.

I like to tape the track map over my speedo, no need for a speedo, u dont need to know how fast
You are going.


Also with alot of amateur racing series you need to have functioning
Head an taillights, so dont pull any fuses,if you want you can tape an X across but were not in close contact racing in our cars,chance of hitting another car is less likely than spinning off course.And when it rains u need your lights on.

Always stay on the outside and let people pass on the inside, only in passing zones and only when signaled(that means you give right turn signal and he will pass on the right)

If you are on a cool down lap or just cruising,or have broken something, turn your 4 ways on,so people behind and track officials know what the hell you are doing.

If you notice youre smoking or leaking fluids GET OFF THE RACING LINE and either limp it back(if possible) or park off the side of the track and wait for a tow.

If you spill fluid off the racin line its okay, if you get coolant or oil on the racing line, it will delay the cleanup and everyone will be waiting because you didnt pull over. Dont be that guy!


Also coolant on most tracks is looked down on, water works fine and evaporates, coolant takes forever to clean up and leaves the track slick.

If you notice someone infront of you smoking or having a hard time,pass or back way off, or you will soon be peppered with fluids and possibly bottom end parts flying around at 100+kmh, NOT GOOD.


If you are about to drive into what looks like a blown engine cloud of smoke/steam, stay on racing line, slow down, and be careful, OR pull off track immediately.

Also do not go out on track with faster cars because it looks fun, its just going to hold them up and youll be once again THAT GUY, u dont wanna be THAT GUY.

Stay with the civics,minis,gti's etc.


Most of all, pay attention and learn at every oppertunity, and dont be shy to ask another person for an opinion or help, most people at the track are more than willing to help out

Unless they have a 50ft trailer then dont ask cuz they own the world and wouldent dare talk to an insignificant mazda 3 owner(cough*canjam*cough*versaci*cough*)


Have fun and most of all be safe guys!!!

[thanu31]

^ You probably want to just do an overall inspection of your brake system, look closely at the rotors to make sure they aren't spider cracking from the extra stresses of the high heat, make sure you have adequate friction material on your pads, and that they're wearing evenly, inspect the rubber boots on the calipers (these often belt, but are easily replaced now to avoid a future seized caliper), and bleed your brakes!

It's also worth taking a closer look at your wheels to ensure there are no hairline cracks developing. Check your Oil!

Appreciate it!
Looked into the brakes and rims today, everything seems to be fine. but I think im going to do a complete brake upgrade next season.

[thanu31]

Heres what ive learned from tracking mazda 3's

Check all your coolant lines an the thermostat gasket, even if your coolant level is perfect it may be leaking slightly at high temp on track.or just overrunning a bit.

Brake fluid is stupid to check on our cars because of our dumb little reservoir, mine gets fillled to the top and then a sweatband for your wrist goes on it incase it spills out as brake fluid likes to do.Not fun on a glowing red turbo.

Since our cars blow up easy with an oil shortage, ide suggest a balance shaft delete for the added oil capacity.and our pickup isnt getting much on hardhard left corners so a baffle of some kind would be a great safeguard for your engine.

Our stock brakes arent enough
For the track,unless you wanna glaze the pads and come off the track smoking lol.

Both auto and manual are fine for the track, but the auto will overheat on hot days(youll know because it wont let you use the sport mode)

Oem clutch isnt great for the track but will work fine. Just dont go from a race clutch to oem and expect anythin comparable.short shifter is good but dont be trying to ultra quick shift @7000rpm, be consistent,and make sure you dont miss a shift.

Ide also suggest KEEPING YOUR SPARE TIRE untill you know the car and track because let me tell you my car is very very tail happy on hard corners with banking. Learn when its
Gonna step out then start removing weight.

Also dont track with rs-a's. Nuf said there.

Oil temp,pressure, and water temp(coolant) are HIGHLY suggested. DONT trust your factory weighted gauge. It lies untill it gets caught and then says OH BY THE WAYYY TOO HOT(our cooling systems are good for near the 500hp range, tripoint used the oem till it wouldent work,as with our intake mani, its good untill high high boost.

I like to tape the track map over my speedo, no need for a speedo, u dont need to know how fast
You are going.


Also with alot of amateur racing series you need to have functioning
Head an taillights, so dont pull any fuses,if you want you can tape an X across but were not in close contact racing in our cars,chance of hitting another car is less likely than spinning off course.And when it rains u need your lights on.

Always stay on the outside and let people pass on the inside, only in passing zones and only when signaled(that means you give right turn signal and he will pass on the right)

If you are on a cool down lap or just cruising,or have broken something, turn your 4 ways on,so people behind and track officials know what the hell you are doing.

If you notice youre smoking or leaking fluids GET OFF THE RACING LINE and either limp it back(if possible) or park off the side of the track and wait for a tow.

If you spill fluid off the racin line its okay, if you get coolant or oil on the racing line, it will delay the cleanup and everyone will be waiting because you didnt pull over. Dont be that guy!


Also coolant on most tracks is looked down on, water works fine and evaporates, coolant takes forever to clean up and leaves the track slick.

If you notice someone infront of you smoking or having a hard time,pass or back way off, or you will soon be peppered with fluids and possibly bottom end parts flying around at 100+kmh, NOT GOOD.


If you are about to drive into what looks like a blown engine cloud of smoke/steam, stay on racing line, slow down, and be careful, OR pull off track immediately.

Also do not go out on track with faster cars because it looks fun, its just going to hold them up and youll be once again THAT GUY, u dont wanna be THAT GUY.

Stay with the civics,minis,gti's etc.


Most of all, pay attention and learn at every oppertunity, and dont be shy to ask another person for an opinion or help, most people at the track are more than willing to help out

Unless they have a 50ft trailer then dont ask cuz they own the world and wouldent dare talk to an insignificant mazda 3 owner(cough*canjam*cough*versaci*cough*)


Have fun and most of all be safe guys!!!

some useful points in here, good to know!

[rzapata]

some useful points in here, good to know!

+1 Agree!! Thanks for all the information standsideways...

[standsideways]

SPEED3 guys(fobio,mbnto,celest etc)

What is everyone using for brake setups?

I've got a set of hp+ coming with my tires, but I know I'll need another set this year.

Cobalt's Amazed me at how beefy they are compared to hawks I've had(local shop has cobalts)...has anyone tried cobalt friction pads?

Carbotechs? I know they are good, but what combo of front\rear compound I am not sure.

Hawk dtc? I've heard of them comin off the backing plate, where the cobalts use HUGE rivets to hold the material on.


Just trying to plan ahead here.

[breakfasteatre]

Running hp+ and hankook rs3. But no competitive track experience on this setup or at all

[Fobio]

Hp+. Ford fluid. Oem rotors. I like this combo best. Later this season or next we will begin sourcing carbotechs.

[standsideways]

Hp+. Ford fluid. Oem rotors. I like this combo best. Later this season or next we will begin sourcing carbotechs.

hah! we are on the same page i guess.

thanks

[MajesticBlueNTO]

2010: Hawk HPS, stock rotors, Ford fluid

2011: Hawk HP+, DBA4000 rotors, RBF600 fluid, SS lines

2012: Carbotech XP12 front/ XP10 rear, DBA4000 rotors, RBF600 fluid, SS lines

The 2010 combo was ok for me but the HPS would need a cool down lap every so often. I changed to DBA4000 for 2011 as I had DBA rears BNIB that I didn't put on my old 3 so I bought the fronts to match.

The 2011 combo was great. Consistent braking performance for 20 minute sessions. The tires would get greasy before the brakes would give up.

The 2012 combo has me switching to Carbotechs for a couple reasons ... 1) I was going to put the HPS back on for winter but the HP+ were already over half done and I didn't want to run them at the track this year so I drove with them over the winter... 2) I want to brake even later...go deeper (as Carbotech likes to say) ...for these reasons, Carbotech was the next logical choice.

There's a great comparison between different track pads by Eric Foss on MSF (http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f233/new-mazdaspeed-3-new-reace-track-oh-baby-video-photos-99863/#post1186893) ...while he is sponsored by Carbotech, he has significant experience with track pads to be able to provide constructive feedback.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

2010: Hawk HPS, stock rotors, Ford fluid

2011: Hawk HP+, DBA4000 rotors, RBF600 fluid, SS lines

2012: Carbotech XP12 front/ XP10 rear, DBA4000 rotors, RBF600 fluid, SS lines



2012: Carbotech XP12 front/ XP10 rear, OEM rotors, RBF600 fluid, SS lines

Thought I'd update this with my current setup after chewing through the DBA4000 rotors at my first time at TMP with Sigma...

When I installed the Carbotech pads, the DBA4000 rotors looked like they could take another year and it possibly could have if I stuck to Mosport DDT and GP tracks which aren't as hard on brakes as TMP.

However, after the Sigma event at TMP, the DBA4000 rotors were done... there was a pronounced lip on the outer and inner parts of the rotor which caused an incessant grinding noise while slow rolling (i.e. at every stop and start on the street)

Instead of spending a grip of money on DBA4000 rotors, I decided to go back to OEM rotors (for all 4, the cost close to the same as a front set of DBA4000!)

I was able to bed them in nicely at the ILR track day and they're currently stopping much better than on the 1 year old DBA4000.

[CelestSpeed3]

I was going to do brake ducts but after reading your post, I think I'm going to change pads first.

[standsideways]

Ide love the ducts i-moto uses.

Wonder if they'd sell a few sets.

[Cab0oze]

Went for my first lapping day last night, had a bit over 1/4 tank of gas.
15 minutes later my fuel light was on, I'm assuming I just barely made it thru the session because I had 0 km remaining on my trip computer. Was really surprised, I didn't think I'd go thru that much gas.
With that said, then some nice guy lent me 2L so i could limp to a gas station down the road... made it, put in 15L and when I got back in the car it was showing me I had half a tank. Weird?

[r4mi5awi]

Yeah that digital fuel gauge is only as good as looking at F and E. Everything else in the middle is just tetris lol

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Went for my first lapping day last night, had a bit over 1/4 tank of gas.
15 minutes later my fuel light was on, I'm assuming I just barely made it thru the session because I had 0 km remaining on my trip computer. Was really surprised, I didn't think I'd go thru that much gas.
With that said, then some nice guy lent me 2L so i could limp to a gas station down the road... made it, put in 15L and when I got back in the car it was showing me I had half a tank. Weird?

consider that, when you're tossing the car around the track, the fuel is sloshing around in the tank. at lower than 1/4 tank, it's not uncommon for the level sensor to see little to no gas and trigger the low gas light. once back on level ground, the gas returns to a proper rest state and the level sensor reports a more accurate reading.

putting in 15L to make a half tank isn't weird when you consider that the light usually goes on when there's ~10L remaining and adding 15L would bring it to ~25L or close to half a tank.

in the ms3, always start a lapping day with a full tank and bring at least a 20-25L gas can, if necessary, to make it home.

[Cab0oze]

consider that, when you're tossing the car around the track, the fuel is sloshing around in the tank. at lower than 1/4 tank, it's not uncommon for the level sensor to see little to no gas and trigger the low gas light. once back on level ground, the gas returns to a proper rest state and the level sensor reports a more accurate reading.

putting in 15L to make a half tank isn't weird when you consider that the light usually goes on when there's ~10L remaining and adding 15L would bring it to ~25L or close to half a tank.

in the ms3, always start a lapping day with a full tank and bring at least a 20-25L gas can, if necessary, to make it home.
Yeah I thought it might have been an issue with the fuel sloshing around, but after I did a cooldown lap and idled for 3 mins or so it still didn't come back. Trip computer was at zero, gauge was pegged on empty. Maybe the fuel sensor doesn't update that frequently though and was just confused. OR, maybe I did use all the gas. But if I did, then filling up with 15L and being at half a tank would be very strange.

Anyhow... lesson learned.

[CelestSpeed3]

What track were you at?

[Cab0oze]

St. Eustache Autodrome (in quebec). I actually work right beside a different track (Circuit ICar) but lapping there is too expensive

[condor888000]

And that is why you always bring a jerry can of gas to the track. Just in case.

[mickey_g]

For those of you doing multiple track days, how often are you guys doing a complete brake fluid flush?

[Fobio]

For those of you doing multiple track days, how often are you guys doing a complete brake fluid flush?

For the casual lapper, I would change brake fluid once a year and depending on how much you drive, you may be able to get by with regular intervals. This is assuming you are not pushing the car to the point of boiling your brakes [fluid] or competing for time.

When I was lapping and competing regularly, I'd bleed the brakes and top up when it's needed and it may be every single event. I also changed brake fluids at least twice a yr.

[Cab0oze]

For those of you doing multiple track days, how often are you guys doing a complete brake fluid flush?
Track days mean different things to different people, so you should clarify.
For me, its a 20 minute session on my way home from work :P
I've gone a year and a half since my last flush and my brakes are still doing very well at the track.

If you're going for a full day of racing where you don't want to get there and find out your brakes are no good, then you may want to err on the conservative side and do it once a year max like Fobio suggested.

[Kiyomi]

you can also tell by the colour of the fluid if it changes/ goes dirty (motul rbf660 brand new looks yellowish, then turns to a light coffee brown colour after alot of hard use). use better quality brake fluid with a higher boiling point if ur gonna push the car to the limit on a time-attack day imo.

[mickey_g]

Thanks for the reply guys...yeah sorry should've clarified. I was curious more about time-attack setting rather than just parade laps. Will be replacing my brakes on all 4 corners soon along with fluid...looking at Motul RBF600 or Castrol SRF. Also those of you running stainless steel lines...any issues with them rusting?

[Kiyomi]

Thanks for the reply guys...yeah sorry should've clarified. I was curious more about time-attack setting rather than just parade laps. Will be replacing my brakes on all 4 corners soon along with fluid...looking at Motul RBF600 or Castrol SRF. Also those of you running stainless steel lines...any issues with them rusting?

never. running the goodrich ones, had em on for 4 yrs and no problems. the cs lines could be good since they have the extra plastic coating on them. which track u plan on going to or which event?

[mickey_g]

yeah those are the ones I was looking at good to know they don't rust...I was really hoping to do some this year but life got in the way. I will hopefully try Sigma and CASC events next year along with more auto x

[MajesticBlueNTO]

a good socket set is invaluable at the track for unexpected repairs.

I have the older version of this one currently on sale at CT (http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-184-piece-socket-set-0589230p.html#.U_lgrvmwKSM) and it has aided in the following at the track:

* hpfp fuel hardline R&R
* ETS TMIC removal for coupler fix
* brake bleeding
to name a few.

a socket set and a set of wrenches (currently on sale) (http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-wrench-set-26-pc-0588500p.html#.U_lh_PmwKSM) and you should be good to tackle most issues.