Driver's Door Power lock won't work

[Sparcas]

My driver's lock will not work for some reason. My question is - Is there only two fuses that would normally control the power door locking system?

I've checked both of the fuses in the fuse panel...Both look fine.
D/LOCK1 -
D/LOCK2 -

I can use the Power lock inside the car or from the remote, but the locking system will only lock the passenger door and the rear doors. I have to lock the driver's door manually...

I only have 60K - It's under warranty - so I think i'm just doing to bring it in. I just hate to do that if it's only a fuse or something simple...

[Hives]

I hate electrical problems!

[freddymak18]

i'm 99% sure this is covered under warranty. i had an electrical problem with my driver side window and they fixed it.

[ng3]

I just had this happen last night... Did you end up getting it fixed?

I'm out of warranty, so I'd appreciate any suggestions as to what it might be...

[Noisy Crow]

Only the two fuses... does it UNLOCK? If it neither locks or unlocks, it's probably the wiring; if in only unlocks it's likely a bad PJB.

BTW, how did you check the fuses? Did you swap them with known good ones? Or check with an ohmmeter. Visual inspection won't always catch a blown fuse.

[ng3]

Mine unlocks every time...

Stupid question... What's PJB

[Noisy Crow]

Mine unlocks every time...

Stupid question... What's PJB

Passenger Junction Box: computer that controls all the cars electrical other than the engine.

[coyote]

I seem to recall from the PJB there are two different wires, one controlls the driver lock from the remote and the other controlls the remaining three door locks for the double click from the remote. You need some schematics and then you can try to find the wires to see if you get the signal there.

[Manpreet]

I thought i was the only one with this problem before but mines is fixed, I just didn't use the remote locking system for about a month or so and locked my doors manually but after a month of not using the remote. But one day i used it and it locked it perfectly and never had a problem since.

[Noisy Crow]

I seem to recall from the PJB there are two different wires, one controlls the driver lock from the remote and the other controlls the remaining three door locks for the double click from the remote. You need some schematics and then you can try to find the wires to see if you get the signal there.

One pair of wires to each door lock actuator from the PJB. PJB drives them one way to lock, the other to unlock. The driver/passenger thing happens entirely within the PJB.... there is an addtional relay for just the driver side unlock, but it is in the PJB.

[ng3]

I've noticed something new today. With the door open, if I press the lock button on either the remote or the door, the lock knob does not close completely the first time I press the button, but will on the 2nd press.

Could it be something preventing the button from moving all the way to the closed position within the door?

For me it does not happen constantly so I'm trying to develop the habit of pressing the lock button on the remote twice then closing the door.

[Marsh]

I just noticed I have the exact problem as well. From the sounds of it it's mechanical and not electrical. Does anyone have links to pictures or instructions of removing the driver's door skin? I'll see if I can just lubricate things.

[Halogen]

I read here (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=30085) there was a recall on door locks for 04-06 Mazda 3's. That might explain why it is broken (?)

[Sparcas]

Update: mine is an 07, but i had it replaced under MAP warranty. (Built in 06)

[Sparcas]

Back again! Seems like the issues are back...this time on both doors...

Front Drivers door seems weak - will unlock, but not lock.
Rear drivers door barely moves at all.

I've seen multiple posts on this....some relate to the BCM...
I had this repaired once during warranty (two years ago) Perhaps Mazda didn't fix it properly the first time?

Does anyone know if there's known issue or TSB for this - my car is now out of warranty...UGH!

[Wes08M3]

What exactly did they replace when you brought it in last time? I didn't find it anywhere in the thread...

The '07 we have had the same problem where the driver door wouldn't lock or unlock. It happened around 20,000km and turned out to be a bad door lock actuator. It was replaced under warranty back then. You could be having the same problem.

[Sparcas]

Originally it was the lock actuator...now i think another is failing...

The lock actuator seems to be holding up on the front door...rear looks like it needs replacing...

I just heard rumors about the BCM being the root cause - hope its just the actuator in this case...thanks!

[narcolepticus]

what is BCM?

grrr, this just happened to me last night as well, i can't lock any of the doors, with the remote or inside the car. I have to manually lock all four doors.. long out of warranty and i probably will have to live with it because i am not paying for yet another repair ..

[Wes08M3]

BCM = Body Control Module

Basically the brain that controls all of the body related electronics.

[narcolepticus]

ahh yes, thank you Wes .. i wasn't sure if that was it or not .. will try and find that and see if it's failing, failing that i'll see what else it could possibly be and report back ..

edit:

iirc, BCM's run in the $1500 - 2000 range? tbh, hope it isn't that.

I can unlock the car, no issues with the lights or any other item controlled by that unit so perhaps it may not be BCM ..

@Sparcas, best bet would be to bring it in to have the pros look at it, plus you are under warranty ...

[narcolepticus]

so i was messing about this morning and had a thought regarding why my locks won't work. So i disconnected the battery, waited for a minute and reconnected it. Bam, locks are working .. figures

@Sparcas, et al .. try that .. who know's it may or may not work but in my case it did, no issues anymore

[07carbon3]

Originally it was the lock actuator...now i think another is failing...

The lock actuator seems to be holding up on the front door...rear looks like it needs replacing...

I just heard rumors about the BCM being the root cause - hope its just the actuator in this case...thanks!
i'm now in need of a door lock actuator, may i ask how much that piece cost from mazda?

[Impressive]

i'm now in need of a door lock actuator, may i ask how much that piece cost from mazda?

Contact Joe (FLIPDADY) at MoT for pricing

[narcolepticus]

so i was messing about this morning and had a thought regarding why my locks won't work. So i disconnected the battery, waited for a minute and reconnected it. Bam, locks are working .. figures

@Sparcas, et al .. try that .. who know's it may or may not work but in my case it did, no issues anymore

LOLZ .. so i can't lock my doors again via the remote/inside the car (i can unlock) so resetting the ECU was a fluke ..

part of me doesn't think the actuators would all fail at the same time, i also don't believe that the BCM would be a culprit or other issues would be seen; not just locking .. i am going to look for a short somewhere, fuses are all good ..

[sudz]

Check Auto Wreckers. I got one for Megans Mazda5 for 86 bucks shipped, was able to replace it in an hour. It IS a bit of a PITA, but is much easier if you remove the window. (at least in the Mazda5)

I'd put it at a slightly higher difficulty than swapping out speakers/removing the window.

I wish I took more pictures for a DIY. :-(

Dealership wanted about 360 bucks for the parts, and 3 hours labour - over 700 bucks with tax, Thankfully, I finished it in an hour, figuring it out as I went, for 86!

Just, pull your battery first, of course. I left mine connected for trouble shooting, but there's a little "position sensor" sorta thingthat makes all your car locks go crazy if you move it. lol