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Dave_The_BMXER
05-30-2010, 11:36 AM
Hi guys, I've been working on this post for my blog stanceiseverything (http://www.stanceiseverything.com) for awhile and I am almost ready to post it but thought I should 'workshop' it here before I post it to see if I missed anything.

Be forewarned it's long

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Supplies

The most important thing about taking on any project is making sure that you have all the necessary supplies BEFORE you start, nothing sucks more than getting part way through and realizing you don’t have something you need and having to run over to the local parts store before it closes only to find out it closed an hour earlier than you thought.

Fiberglass
Fiberglass is what does the structural portion of the repair you can use mat or cloth, and I currently have both in my garage but for his application I used fiberglass mat.

Fiberglass mat is pretty easy to use you tear/cut it into portions you need mix the resin and hardener together then apply the resin/hardener mix to the damaged area via a brush, brush the mat, then apply the mat to the damaged area using a stippling technique. The cloth works in essentially the same way but you cut rather than tear.

A fiberglass repair kit, like the one below, will have everything you need.

http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/supplies.jpg

Body Fillers
The cosmetic portion of this requires using three different levels of fillers: Short strand fiberglass filler (‘kitty hair’), plastic filler (your typical bondo), and spot filler (fast drying red filler).

Short strand fiberglass filler
Short strand fiberglass filler is two part (filler and hardener) product that is the hardest and strongest of all of the fillers used in this repair, after this the other fillers are more appearance level filler, fiberglass filler is the hardest to sand of all the fillers used.

Plastic Filler
The second type of filler used will be plastic filler, generally when people refer to ‘bondo’ this is the type of filler they are talking about. Like the fiberglass filler its a filler/hardener combo but it does not contain any fiberglass and is therefor easier to sand but offers less structural support.

If you did all of your repairs with this filler there is a good chance it will crack and fall out later.

Spot putty
The final type of filler used in this project is “spot” filler. It’s pre-mixed filler than provides little to no structural support but is great for filling small imperfections, pinholes and stone chips. It sands out very easily, provided you let it dry completely first. It also comes in a UV version that will dry faster if you leave it in the sun

In regards to brands of filler, I currently use ‘Bondo brand’ because it’s what Canadian Tire stocks and had I bought a bunch of it from a previous project (for my e30) so I still had quite a bit left over.

However it is considered relatively low grade and a lot of guys won’t touch it so if you can find Ever coat (http://www.evercoat.com) pick some up.

Sanding Materials
You will need the following grades of automotive sand paper to do a good job:
80,100, 180, 220, 320 (Initial sanding, Fiberglass filler, Plastic Filler, spot putty)
400, 600, 800 (Spot putty, primer coats leading to color)

To do an exceptional job you will also need:
1000-2000 and rubbing compound (Removing runs, dust, orange peel) – Color sanding always seems to bite me in the ass (rattle can paint is easy to sand through) so I take special care to avoid runs and try and lay the paint as smooth as possible so I can avoid this step.

A sanding block is highly recommended for this job as not only does it make the sanding even it makes it much easier to do.
Paint

You will need at least 3 different types of paint for this job: Sandable primer, High-build primer, Primer sealer (if working with metal), base/clear mix (this is what I had) or base and clear in different cans.

I get all of my paint material from Cawthra Automotive (http://www.yellowpages.ca/bus/Ontario/Mississauga/Cawthra-Automotive-Supplies-Ltd/323459.html) since they have a wide variety of automotive supplies and will mix rattle cans to your paint code. I have received the odd bad paint can from them but most of the time the results have been good.

From what I understand Napa also mixes paint in cans for you but none of the locations withing 30 minutes of me do so.

The paint supplies I used on this project: Base/clear, Sandable primer, high build primer
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/materialpaint.jpg

Misc supplies
Additional things that you will need for this project are: mask, safety goggles, a sanding block, a tack cloth, and a trigger for the spray can if you feel necessary (can really help when using standard spray cans).

Dave_The_BMXER
05-30-2010, 11:39 AM
Getting started: Asses the damage
After assembling all the materials and supplies above it's time to get down to work and the first thing to do is asses what you are working with.

The damage to my lip is in the left corner in this picture
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/lip.jpg

Here is a close up of the damage untouched, on first glance it does not look to bad.
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/freshdamage.jpg

The first step in the repair is to remove the paint chips, cracked filler, etc to really see what kind of damage you are working with first glances can often be deceiving when doing this kind of repair.

Once I sanded out the damage I could see just how extensive it was and that it was repaired before, thankfully there was no loose fiber
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/damagesanded.jpg

Shining a light on the area from the front and looking from the rear it you can really see how much of the top layer was compromised
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/fgweakspots.jpg

The circled area shows where the fiberglass was weakened on the backside of the lip
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/fgdamage1.jpg

After evaluating the damage I knew that the front side obviously needed to be repaired but I figured since I would be working on this for awhile it was best to play it safe and repair the back side of the lip as well to restore the structural integrity.

Once you have assessed your damage read the instructions on how to use your materials before proceeding, not knowing how to mix fillers correctly just leads to more wait time and a longer process over all.

After sanding the damaged and surrounding area with 80 grit sandpaper I applied the short strand fiberglass filler
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/shortstrandfiller.jpg

Once that was dry I then cut/ripped some the fiberglass mat for the rear repair
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/fgforreinforcment.jpg

I test fit my pieces making sure they covered the crack adequately on both sides
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/fgfittest.jpg

I then fiber glassed the layers (4 in all) into place
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/glassed.jpg

Once you are satisfied that the area is structurally sound you can begin the long process of completing the finishing work to the visual area of the lip.

Be warned there is lots, and lots, of sanding ahead.

I brought the fiberglass filler down quickly with an 80 grit sanding disc attached to a drill
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/shortstrandroughsand.jpg

Next I worked my way up to 100 grit while I manually blocked it down
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/shortstrandsandedout.jpg

Here you can see the marks left from the 100 grit paper and the areas the short strand has now filled, the rest need plastic filler
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/100gritsandmarks.jpg

Plastic filler applied to the repair area
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/plasticfillerrough.jpg

Once the plastic filler is sanded out using 180 grit out you will notice that there are pinholes that need to be filled with spot filler
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/spotfillerneeded.jpg

Lay the spot filler on every where that looks like it needs it, this stuff sands through easy so don't be shy
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/spotfillerrough.jpg

Here is what the area should look like after sanding the spot filler with 220 grit sand paper, it's ready for an early primer coat
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/sandedspotfiller2.jpg

Dave_The_BMXER
05-30-2010, 11:44 AM
At this point you are ready to lay your initial coat of primer. I neglected to take any pictures of my priming process but here are some general best practice tips:

Make sure
Make sure your cans of paint are warm
Make sure that the area you are painting in is over five degrees
Wet the floor to limit the amount of dust you stir up
cover anything you don't want painted
take your time
maintain an 8-12inch distance from the object being repaired
use a lot of light coats over one thick coat


Once the lip is primed you will begin to see lots of little imperfections which again need spot filler
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/needsfiller.jpg

If you are unlucky this can happen, its a reaction caused by poor cleaning, the only way to fix this is sand it out
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/primerreaction.jpg

Here is the reaction and another reaction spot sanded out, they gave me no more problems from here out
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/reactionsandedout.jpg

I then filled in as many rock chips as I could see at this point... I had a few.
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/afterprimespotfiller.jpg

Here is a terrible picture of what the spot filler and primer looked like after 220 grit
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/chipsfilled.jpg

Repeating the process, notice a lot less chips this time
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/stonechips2ndround.jpg

As you can see by round 3 I have finally filled all of the imperfections
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/lastroundspotfill.jpg

After this round I sanded the lip with 400 grit sandpaper (instead of 320) and applied some high build primer to the areas I thought needed a little bit of help. Once the high build primer was dry I sanded once again with 400 grit sandpaper and did a final coat of primer.

Here's the high build primer over the damaged area
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/hihgbuild.jpg

damaged area after the final coat of primer
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/finalprimercoat.jpg

After the final primer coat I sanded the entire lip with 600 and then 800 grit primer so that I would have the smoothest surface possible for the base coat to be applied. The goal is for the base coat to go on a perfect surface.

Sanded with 800 grit sandpaper
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/finalprimersand.jpg

This was my first color coat after sanding, as you can see the lip is white at this point but lacking gloss
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/colorcoat1.jpg

After a few more coats you can see that the light beginning to shine off the lip
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/paintedcloseup.jpg

Another shot of the lip after all of the coats of paint were complete, as you can see even in low light there is gloss
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/painted2.jpg

The finished product, as you can see the color matches, fairly well, though lacking the factory gloss
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/completed1.jpg

This side shot shows that the paint is again, slightly off shade and gloss, but not all together terrible
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/completed2.jpg

Closer shot of the matching/or lack of matching depending on how you look at it
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/completed3.jpg

Parting shot
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/completed4.jpg

I have been driving around with this lip installed for about a month and a half now and the paint and repairs have been holding up quite well. I don't think I have picked up any rock chips yet and have killed quite a few bugs with it.

I have yet to perfect my method to the point where I can exactly match factory paint with rattle cans but I think that for a daily driven lip this looks quite well. If you got this far hopefully you found this tutorial helpful and if you do use it to repair one of your own lips I would love to see the results.

Happy sanding!

Ogata
05-30-2010, 03:35 PM
wow that is some DIY!! Nice Job. Did you use the same paint code? I'm always intrigued on how bodyshop mechanics match the paint color.

Manpreet
05-30-2010, 03:45 PM
wow that came out nice did you clear coat it??

cwp_sedan
05-30-2010, 06:17 PM
Damn! Great job! :thumbsup

Dave_The_BMXER
05-30-2010, 06:28 PM
Thanks guys, the paint was a base clear combo so I did not clear it after, I was prepares too but it looked good enough as is and I had huffed enough paint near the end.

And ya cawthra mixes based on paint code

philipfreire
05-31-2010, 10:39 PM
Amazing how to!!!!

Nextmod
06-01-2010, 02:18 AM
wow thats a great write up

Dave_The_BMXER
06-01-2010, 07:05 AM
Thanks guys, a few minor edits and I should have it up on the site.

Frenchmanremy
02-10-2011, 11:43 AM
To be honest Dave, Defenitely the best write-up I have read on the web pertaining to Body-work and fiberglass repairs!
Great job!

Dave_The_BMXER
02-10-2011, 12:22 PM
^ Thanks :) I've done it a few times lol.

I plan to do a similar write up when I roll my fenders.

Default User
02-10-2011, 07:25 PM
Excellent write-up

rattle can paint jobs are tough
did you do a 2000 grit wet-sand? any polishing compounds?

Dave_The_BMXER
02-10-2011, 10:46 PM
No, I've never been able to wet sand and polish spray paint without making things worse :( maybe this year though...

Frenchmanremy
03-01-2011, 04:25 PM
I plan to do a similar write up when I roll my fenders.
Can't wait to see that one! :D

Kappa
03-01-2011, 04:32 PM
roll fenders write up ftw please !

Default User
03-01-2011, 04:41 PM
I plan to do a similar write up when I roll my fenders.

Baseball bat, a towel, and a hairdryer?

Kappa
03-01-2011, 05:07 PM
^if you drive a 93 civic...lol

Dave_The_BMXER
03-01-2011, 06:05 PM
Baseball bat, a towel, and a hairdryer?

Lol roller.