Transmission / clutch help

[Cab0oze]

Hey guys;
I'm back needing more general advice regarding my transmission. Since I bought the car I've had a steady stream of 'issues', and I was never sure how many of them were real, and how many of them were related to me learning to drive a manual.

So - Occasional grinding of 2nd gear, and getting locked out of first gear aside, whenever I start my car and let the clutch back out the RPMs/engine noises always change a bit. Not sure if this is normal. However, when it was REALLY cold last week, when I let the clutch out with the car out of gear, the car would actually buck, like the gears were still engaged (even though they weren't).

Is this another 'normal' thing, or is it the sign of a potential serious problem? I don't understand the mechanics of the system enough to figure it out myself =/
Also, my warranty is running out in a couple months so I want to know what I need to live with and what I need to get looked at.

Thanks!

[Stretch]

You need to check right away and make sure your transmission fluid and clutch fluid levels are correct.
Is it the stock clutch? How many km?
Eric

[Cab0oze]

Stock clutch, 86000 km, 3rd owner and ive driven 99% highway since i bought it at 50,000 km

Transmission is sealed right? so how do you check your trans fluid? I was thinking of replacing with synth but i was hoping that if there was something wrong with my transmission i'd wait for them to mess around with it first.
Clutch fluid is good.

[Flagrum_3]

Stock clutch, 86000 km, 3rd owner and ive driven 99% highway since i bought it at 50,000 km

Transmission is sealed right? so how do you check your trans fluid? I was thinking of replacing with synth but i was hoping that if there was something wrong with my transmission i'd wait for them to mess around with it first.
Clutch fluid is good.

Check your brake fluid level. The clutch uses the same reservoir, and it could be low. Yes the tranny is sealed but you can check the fluid level by removing the drain/fill bolt and sticking a finger in, the oil should be level with the bolt hole. But with your mileage, I'd suggest changing out to synthetic. If the issues persist still, I'd venture to guess your throw-out bearing may be on it's way out.

_3

[Cab0oze]

-double post failure- :(

[Cab0oze]

Ok so basically what you're saying is that its probably not normal. I already checked the brake/clutch fluid and it was fine. I'll probably take it to the dealer (and put my shredded RMM back on so they replace that too) this spring and then once they finish dealing with the transmission (if there is anything to be done), I'll put new fluid in :)

[Flagrum_3]

Why not just change the gear oil now? Atleast you'll benefit right away from the synthetic and it could 'possibly' solve the issue. By doing so you'll also elimnate one possible cause....the tranny itself. Also If there is an issue, it is unlikely an internal transmission issue. It sounds more like a clutch or linkage problem, and if so, the transmission fluid would not have to be drained to replace those items. Items such as the clutch, throw-out bearing etc;

_3

[Cab0oze]

Why not just change the gear oil now? Atleast you'll benefit right away from the synthetic and it could 'possibly' solve the issue. By doing so you'll also elimnate one possible cause....the tranny itself. Also If there is an issue, it is unlikely an internal transmission issue. It sounds more like a clutch or linkage problem, and if so, the transmission fluid would not have to be drained to replace those items. Items such as the clutch, throw-out bearing etc;

_3
I have a feeling that there is an issue with the transmission synchros... not that I know anything about that, just based on what I've read it seems like a very likely culprit.

[pwdunmore]

If you are having a hard time getting it into gear it is either the alignment of the shifter cables (which you can adjust, you may have already) or the synchros are worn so your tranny isn't aligning the gears as they spin. A way to tell if its the synchros is if you can't get it in gear no matter what RPM you are reving at. Sometimes I have a hard time getting it into 1st and 2nd but its because I am locked out due to my RPMs not being matched.

My feeling is you might be having a transmission mount failure because the engine rocking back a forth and you are having a hard time getting it into the gears. I am just best guessing though... wish I could help more.

[mikey32235]

if you still have warrenty, go to the dealer for a tranny inspection! pay the inspection fee. its worth it man

[Cab0oze]

If you are having a hard time getting it into gear it is either the alignment of the shifter cables (which you can adjust, you may have already) or the synchros are worn so your tranny isn't aligning the gears as they spin. A way to tell if its the synchros is if you can't get it in gear no matter what RPM you are reving at. Sometimes I have a hard time getting it into 1st and 2nd but its because I am locked out due to my RPMs not being matched.

My feeling is you might be having a transmission mount failure because the engine rocking back a forth and you are having a hard time getting it into the gears. I am just best guessing though... wish I could help more.I did already play around with the shifter cables and it did fix my 'reach' issue with 5th gear, but unforunately the 1st and 2nd gear problems are persisting. All of the issues that are still present seem to be resolved by double clutching... does this help point fingers anywhere?


if you still have warrenty, go to the dealer for a tranny inspection! pay the inspection fee. its worth it manThat actually sounds like the best advice yet... Any idea how much that would be?

[pwdunmore]

I did already play around with the shifter cables and it did fix my 'reach' issue with 5th gear, but unforunately the 1st and 2nd gear problems are persisting. All of the issues that are still present seem to be resolved by double clutching... does this help point fingers anywhere?

Because it's both 1st and 2nd I would think its the synchros, both gears those are on the same drive shaft (from my general knowledge of transmissions) so I would think that the syncro that suppose to align the power with the tranny isn't functioning correctly. The double clutching would make the gears pop in because you are doing the work that the syncro gear does.

Get it inspected, seems like 1st/2nd gear are messy with our platforms... I have read about syncro gears going and 2nd gear popping out because of a bent fork. There are a couple of threads about it on MSF.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f505/official-2nd-gear-dead-thread-134845/

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f427/wtf-mazda-make-weak-2nd-gear-syncros-72723/

[Flagrum_3]

I did already play around with the shifter cables and it did fix my 'reach' issue with 5th gear, but unforunately the 1st and 2nd gear problems are persisting. All of the issues that are still present seem to be resolved by double clutching... does this help point fingers anywhere?

That actually sounds like the best advice yet... Any idea how much that would be?

I would think it would cost 'nothing' initially, since your under warranty, they must diagnose the problem first. Also a 'diagnosis' charge will depend on whether the issue is a wear item such as a clutch or it's a internal transmission problem. A wear item will not be covered under warranty, hense a service charge. If it's a warranteed component cause; such as syncros or gears, the cost should be completely covered, including the diagnosis fee....Thats the way I understand it anyways.

Oh and the issue you are complaining about in this original post is unlikely a internal issue, that is the noise and movement issue when releasing the clutch when cold.

_3

[Cab0oze]

Thanks guys! I'll make an appointment in a couple weeks I think :)

[morganc]

Random Tidbit of Knowledge:

I was having cold shifting problems (2010 M3), and my engine RPMs would drop considerably when releasing the clutch in the cold for idle. Solution? Our service manuals suggest using a 75w80 fluid in the transaxle, BUT when I went to Mazda to grab fluid, they told me that they use "AC Delco Syncromesh Transmission Fluid." I changed it and the car is phenomenal, quieter and smooth-shifting (no clutch required :))

[Cab0oze]

Thanks for the tip, you're the first person to definitively actually answer my original question (although I appreciate all of the other help too lol)! :P

[morganc]

Ya, so I take back any claims about this fluid. My 3rd gear synchro just dropped. I'm going to RedLine 75/90



Random Tidbit of Knowledge:

I was having cold shifting problems (2010 M3), and my engine RPMs would drop considerably when releasing the clutch in the cold for idle. Solution? Our service manuals suggest using a 75w80 fluid in the transaxle, BUT when I went to Mazda to grab fluid, they told me that they use "AC Delco Syncromesh Transmission Fluid." I changed it and the car is phenomenal, quieter and smooth-shifting (no clutch required :))

[Cab0oze]

Ya, so I take back any claims about this fluid. My 3rd gear synchro just dropped. I'm going to RedLine 75/90
Thanks for taking the time to to dig this back up for the update! I didn't get around to the fluid flush afterall, will do it in the spring I think.

[Stathakos]

Not sure if this the right section, but I am looking at a 2nd Gen Speed 3, and I have read that the synchro's can be crappy, and that the lower gears especially 2nd like to go byebye. I am just wondering about what I should look out for when I test drive it (other than not being able to go into a gear) that could mean an early warning sign.

Also, I read that switching to this FoMoCo XT-M5-QS stuff seems to help a lot, does anyone have experience with using XT-M5-QS long term?

edit. the speed Im looking at has 77k on it