MarkhamMazda3
01-09-2005, 08:32 AM
Well, after about 4 or 5 months of work on this project it is finally done. Originally i was just going to just do an aux-in hack and use my laptop but after i dropped my orginal deck i had to change it to an aftermarket one and the rest is history. anyways here it goes. my current set-up includes a xbox, an after market Head-Unit, a Clarion 5.8\" LCD, GPS, and a shuttle pc in the trunk (a small cube-shaped computer) which is used for the gps and my mp3s and music vidz.
Please tell me what you think of my project
Here is the set-up and a quick description of how i did it:
Step 1:
Installed the aftermarket deck with a PIE adaptor for aux input and used the metra dash kit for fabrication. The deck is a Pioneer 4500 which really sounds much much better than the stock one.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/21.jpg
Step 2:
Installed the LCD in the dash using devin\'s custom bracket. the screen has a very high resolution and works in all different types of sunlight.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/2.jpg
Step 3:
Once i knew everything worked, i took it all out and installed the proper, necessary cables which i can tell you are not cheap. Here is a pic of the main video cable which plugs into the screen and the PIE adaptor with the RCA cables which will go to a source selector which are all tucked in behind the spot where the ashtray use to be:
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/7.jpg
From there i removed the armrest and the little box around the shifter and ran the audio and video cables which go to the deck and the screen from behing the ashtray area though the center console:
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/17.jpg
Step 4:
From there i drilled 2 holes behind the compartment in the armrest so i can run the cables from the center console into there. 1 hole is for audio cables, the other hole is for video cables. Remember, these cables are only to the deck and lcd, they have nothing to do with the acutal source (xbox, computer, etc) yet. Once i drilled the holes i ran the cables into the armrest and also installed a A/V selector switch which lets me select betweenj 3 sources for my audio and video signal. the audio for these sources is hooked up to my deck on one end and the actual devices on the other and the video is hooked up to my lcd on one end and my actual devices on the other. I also installed a set of seperate inputs for video so it will be an easy plug-in for a video camera or something that i want to temporarily install. You will also notice that at the bottom i have installed a charger for my cordless mouse. while you have your drill out, you should drill another hole in the side of the armrest next to the passenger seat but in a way so that if the pasenger seat is puleld forward, you cannot see the hole. I will explain the reason for the hole later.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/6.jpg
Step 5:
Once you have that done it is time to start connecting the input devices. I chose the trunk for two reasons. One being that i didnt want the equipment to get damaged from it being under the seat and people kicking it and what not. The second reason is that i have a hatchback and i can just remove the equipment whenever i want since it is all drilled to the removeable section of the trunk. Start off by just laying down you devices in the desired position in the car to get a rough idea of space. Remember to leave room for any connections that may be needed for cables and what not. As for mounting, i used a couple of L brackets and drilled them into the side of my computer case and then drilled them into the trunk. With the xbox, i remove the original screws then made a template and using the same holes and longer screws, screwed the xbox right down from under the trunk.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/14.jpg
Step 6:
Once you have done your measurements get the required length of audio, video, and power cables for any units you are using. From there bundle the wires together and find a way to hide them but at the same time having them run to the center console. I did this by running the wires to the bakc of the trunk, under the rear seats and then under the carpet to the vent under the front passenger seats.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/20.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/15.jpg
Step 7:
Once all the cables are run, leave the power cables under the seat and run the video and audio cables from under the seat to the arm rest through the hole that was created at the side of the armrest a couple steps ago. if the hole is in the righ position, when the seat is slid back, it should be hidden. Once the cables have been run, connect everything at the A/V switch. Now the problem is getting power to all this equipment, and if you guys are thinking of just plugging in an inverter into your cigarette lighters, you have another thing comin. In my case i am drawing about 200 watts average and that is too much to be constantly drawn from a cigarette lighter which uses about 16 awg wire ( i know from experience). I ran 8 awg wire from the battery with an inline fuse to the same vent under the passenger seat. I connected the wire to a cigarette lighter temporarily but that was just for testing purposes. Remember, when making permanent electrical connections, it is always good to solder the wires together first and then tape them or heat shrink them.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/8.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/1.jpg
Step 8:
Once your power cables have been run, plug in the inverter and power cables and give everything a try, if all goes well, it should work perfectly.
Step 9:
Step 9 is the biggest step, and that is modifications and tweaking. This is the part that took up 99% of my time. any idiot with a pair of pliers and minimal technical skills can do all the work i did, but the tweaking and getting it to work perfectly is the trick. I ended up using a bluetooth GPS receiver for my gps and mounted it under my dash. It is hooked up to a 12v so it is constantly charging. For my computer, i used a Gyration keyboard and Mouse set which is amazing. not only does it have all the features of a set that you would find from a logitech set, but the mouse does not need a surface, just hold it in your hands and wave it around. As for the XBOX, i used a madcatz wireless remote which works perfectly.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/5.jpg
Conclusion
Well i know it isnt exacltly a very descriptive and step-by-step walkthrough but it gives you the basics. Here are a few tips that i have learned through a lot of time and money on this project:
1) BE PATIENT! I know we all hear it all the time but i am 18 and therefor not the most patient person in the world and because of that, this project has easily cost me a coupel hundred more than it should have
2) Use good cables. with the power going through your car, you wanna make sure you have decent audio and video cables, the cheap $5 wal mart ones wont do. Do yourself a favour and get cables with decent shielding.
3) To help avoid electrical noise, i suggest you get a very good inverter. you dont need a pure sine wave inverter which is the really expensive type, but a decent regular inverter wil work good. I found that with different inverters, my results really did vary. i tried about 5 different types until i got the perfect one which was a Xpower 300 watt inverter which is made by Xantrex.
4) The switch for the A/V may cause some electrical noise so try and get yourself a good one that is somehow sielded
5) dont make stupid mistakes! I tried to save space so i cut off the unneseccary 10 feet of cable i had on my main DIN cable for my lcd and that lead to a huge shielding problem which lead to a huge $100 price tag for a new cable.
here are a couple pics of the finished product plus my engine cover which i did when i was bored.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/4.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/9.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/10.jpg
Please tell me what you think of my project
Here is the set-up and a quick description of how i did it:
Step 1:
Installed the aftermarket deck with a PIE adaptor for aux input and used the metra dash kit for fabrication. The deck is a Pioneer 4500 which really sounds much much better than the stock one.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/21.jpg
Step 2:
Installed the LCD in the dash using devin\'s custom bracket. the screen has a very high resolution and works in all different types of sunlight.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/2.jpg
Step 3:
Once i knew everything worked, i took it all out and installed the proper, necessary cables which i can tell you are not cheap. Here is a pic of the main video cable which plugs into the screen and the PIE adaptor with the RCA cables which will go to a source selector which are all tucked in behind the spot where the ashtray use to be:
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/7.jpg
From there i removed the armrest and the little box around the shifter and ran the audio and video cables which go to the deck and the screen from behing the ashtray area though the center console:
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/17.jpg
Step 4:
From there i drilled 2 holes behind the compartment in the armrest so i can run the cables from the center console into there. 1 hole is for audio cables, the other hole is for video cables. Remember, these cables are only to the deck and lcd, they have nothing to do with the acutal source (xbox, computer, etc) yet. Once i drilled the holes i ran the cables into the armrest and also installed a A/V selector switch which lets me select betweenj 3 sources for my audio and video signal. the audio for these sources is hooked up to my deck on one end and the actual devices on the other and the video is hooked up to my lcd on one end and my actual devices on the other. I also installed a set of seperate inputs for video so it will be an easy plug-in for a video camera or something that i want to temporarily install. You will also notice that at the bottom i have installed a charger for my cordless mouse. while you have your drill out, you should drill another hole in the side of the armrest next to the passenger seat but in a way so that if the pasenger seat is puleld forward, you cannot see the hole. I will explain the reason for the hole later.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/6.jpg
Step 5:
Once you have that done it is time to start connecting the input devices. I chose the trunk for two reasons. One being that i didnt want the equipment to get damaged from it being under the seat and people kicking it and what not. The second reason is that i have a hatchback and i can just remove the equipment whenever i want since it is all drilled to the removeable section of the trunk. Start off by just laying down you devices in the desired position in the car to get a rough idea of space. Remember to leave room for any connections that may be needed for cables and what not. As for mounting, i used a couple of L brackets and drilled them into the side of my computer case and then drilled them into the trunk. With the xbox, i remove the original screws then made a template and using the same holes and longer screws, screwed the xbox right down from under the trunk.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/14.jpg
Step 6:
Once you have done your measurements get the required length of audio, video, and power cables for any units you are using. From there bundle the wires together and find a way to hide them but at the same time having them run to the center console. I did this by running the wires to the bakc of the trunk, under the rear seats and then under the carpet to the vent under the front passenger seats.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/20.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/15.jpg
Step 7:
Once all the cables are run, leave the power cables under the seat and run the video and audio cables from under the seat to the arm rest through the hole that was created at the side of the armrest a couple steps ago. if the hole is in the righ position, when the seat is slid back, it should be hidden. Once the cables have been run, connect everything at the A/V switch. Now the problem is getting power to all this equipment, and if you guys are thinking of just plugging in an inverter into your cigarette lighters, you have another thing comin. In my case i am drawing about 200 watts average and that is too much to be constantly drawn from a cigarette lighter which uses about 16 awg wire ( i know from experience). I ran 8 awg wire from the battery with an inline fuse to the same vent under the passenger seat. I connected the wire to a cigarette lighter temporarily but that was just for testing purposes. Remember, when making permanent electrical connections, it is always good to solder the wires together first and then tape them or heat shrink them.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/8.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/1.jpg
Step 8:
Once your power cables have been run, plug in the inverter and power cables and give everything a try, if all goes well, it should work perfectly.
Step 9:
Step 9 is the biggest step, and that is modifications and tweaking. This is the part that took up 99% of my time. any idiot with a pair of pliers and minimal technical skills can do all the work i did, but the tweaking and getting it to work perfectly is the trick. I ended up using a bluetooth GPS receiver for my gps and mounted it under my dash. It is hooked up to a 12v so it is constantly charging. For my computer, i used a Gyration keyboard and Mouse set which is amazing. not only does it have all the features of a set that you would find from a logitech set, but the mouse does not need a surface, just hold it in your hands and wave it around. As for the XBOX, i used a madcatz wireless remote which works perfectly.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/5.jpg
Conclusion
Well i know it isnt exacltly a very descriptive and step-by-step walkthrough but it gives you the basics. Here are a few tips that i have learned through a lot of time and money on this project:
1) BE PATIENT! I know we all hear it all the time but i am 18 and therefor not the most patient person in the world and because of that, this project has easily cost me a coupel hundred more than it should have
2) Use good cables. with the power going through your car, you wanna make sure you have decent audio and video cables, the cheap $5 wal mart ones wont do. Do yourself a favour and get cables with decent shielding.
3) To help avoid electrical noise, i suggest you get a very good inverter. you dont need a pure sine wave inverter which is the really expensive type, but a decent regular inverter wil work good. I found that with different inverters, my results really did vary. i tried about 5 different types until i got the perfect one which was a Xpower 300 watt inverter which is made by Xantrex.
4) The switch for the A/V may cause some electrical noise so try and get yourself a good one that is somehow sielded
5) dont make stupid mistakes! I tried to save space so i cut off the unneseccary 10 feet of cable i had on my main DIN cable for my lcd and that lead to a huge shielding problem which lead to a huge $100 price tag for a new cable.
here are a couple pics of the finished product plus my engine cover which i did when i was bored.
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/4.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/9.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/markhammazda3/10.jpg