How To: Disable DRL If You Have HIDs

[rzapata]

Have you tried the relay + capacitor method?? I had that same problem before..

I originally bought just the HIDs, no relay. Installed it, had flickering problem so I had to turn on the lights even on daylight.. Didn't like it, bought a relay, installed, still had a flicker and now the noisy ticking noise is added to it.. Finally, bought capacitor, installed on relay harness, and voila, no more noise, no more flicker..

[zoomzoom!]

I am using the relay harness only. the two ends(mine are blue and black) that are supposed to go into the stock head light harness is what im using. I live in Orangeville and searched the entire town all day for a 35V cap with no avail. Only 50V at source was the closest i could find.-I passed on it.

So Pretty much, i need that cap is what youre saying to run the signal off the stock headlight harness?? I can't get to the city for a couple of days. will this be ok to run like that until i get a cap?

[Default User]

So Pretty much, i need that cap is what youre saying to run the signal off the stock headlight harness?? I can't get to the city for a couple of days. will this be ok to run like that until i get a cap?

Yes.
50V might work.
If it's only gonna cost $5 or so, I say it's worth a try. If it doesn't work. Just take it out

[rzapata]

With the relay (w/o capacitor) only and HIDs, I guess you just have to keep the lights on at all times to avoid that flickering and ticking noise.. At least that's how it was with mine. The reason the relay ticks is that there's a switch there of some sort that opens and closes depending on the current... DRLs in general sends a pulse like current to the stock bulbs (that is why they are not as bright compared to when they are turned on) which is what causes the flicker and the ticking.. When the lights are turned on, the current is constant and as a result, HIDs work fine..

What the capacitor does is it stores electricity and discharges it constantly to the HIDs, mimicking the current flow as when the light are turned on. So technically, your HIDs will be turned on all the time, only, it will be drawing it's power directly from the battery.. Based on what I've read, you need a 25V 4700uF (uF - microfarad) capacitor. I'm not an electrician so these numbers don't mean much to me.. As an assumption though, 25V means the voltage capacity (how much voltage it can handle) and 4700uF, not too sure really..

I've been running this set up for quite some time now and haven't had any problems.. I would highly recommend it.. ParsM3GT has done it and it seems to work for him as well..

[Default User]

I know 12V is the absolute min'm you can use.
25V is easy to find and the most commonly used
I'm using 35V on both my 3 and my Lancer.
I don't see why you can't use a 50V

[rzapata]

I know 12V is the absolute min'm you can use.
25V is easy to find and the most commonly used
I'm using 35V on both my 3 and my Lancer.
I don't see why you can't use a 50V

Agree..

[zoomzoom!]

Thanks guys for all the great info. i will let you guys know what the outcome is when i get the cap.

one thing i noticed is that my drivers side HID is not as bright as the passenger side. would this possibly coincide with the face i dont have the capacitor on the relay??

[rzapata]

Hmmm, not so sure about that.. Faulty ballast, bulbs maybe? Before the HIDs, did your stock bulbs had that effect?

[Default User]

Possible that the lamps need to be re-aligned

[shawn1]

Hi, that method you said ( 25V 4700uF (uF - microfarad) capacitor ) dose that disable the DRL's cause im trying to disable my drl's in my mazda 3 cause i have HID's.

[Mazduh]

I'm planning on doing this to my 06 that I have now. Does anyone happen to have any photos of the mod? I can't get them to open at all on my end. I'm comfortable with wiring, so if not, I'm sure I can manage.