Nice sound, very good stats, how much cost the Dyno test?
I'm receiving my AI today, the TAKEDA Short Ram, the new model one.
Thinking to test it too!
Tell you what, go get a baseline dyno on your car without mods. Then go add just a CAI and CBE on your car and PM me. We'll go to a dyno and if you can pull 20HP-25HP out of your 2.3L, I'll pay for the dyno. If you can't, you pay.
And yes, I'm being completely serious.
By Ricer math, I mean guys who then use this 'marketing' info and say, well, I added an Injen CAI for 15HP and this CBE says that is another 10HP gain, so therefore I have added 25HP more to my car. Power gains are not always linear and stackable and a lot of times the car ECU will pull back a lot of these gains over time to run where it wants to run... 25HP on a car with 156HP is a big gain.
The only true and somewhat scientific way of actually telling improvement gains is to do a baseline and after mod dyno on the same day, with the relative same conditions and then note improvements if any.
So that means, do a few baseline dyno runs stock. Install the parts and then do another few dyno runs. It would be worthwhile doing another dyno run also a few weeks later, provided the temps and air moisture values are similiar to the original baseline, because the ECU will have had a chance to adjust to the mods and increased air flow etc...
It is not particularly easy to make solid power gains on the NA MZ3 without significant mods or turbo/supercharger. A CAI and a free-flow CBE will net you some gains for sure, but you need to go well past this point to start seeing significant power gains, hence header, ignition timing, ECU mods. Or, go the forced induction route.
Last edited by Zoom Zoom Boy; 11-17-2009 at 05:48 PM.
When the manufacturer publishes HP number it is usually estimated at the crank or flywheel. Realistically what you are getting at the wheels on to the road is far less. i believe you could be losing as much as 20% from crank to wheels.
Hence crank HP is higher than wheel HP #'s.
so your base run with a completely stock gt engine was 123 wHP.
That would more or less be the same for mine then which means my stock engine with full CAI added an extra 15 WHP!!!! WORD!
my run with just CAI was 138.1 WHP & 138.5Torgue
say hi to my puppy
"Always leave a CLEAN set of foot prints"
"I like my car....but I'll like my car even more when it's lowered with Tangerine rims"
hey man where did u buy the fujita cai?
is this company even still around anymore? I had it when I had my 3, but that was back in 2006... you can try eBay. I think that's where I got mine.
THEN 2005 Mazda3 GT/GFX - 5MT - Stubby - Work XD-9 - Sumitomo HTR Z III - Rays Lug Nuts - Eibach Prokit - TWM STS - RX8 Knob - Leather Shift Boot - Borla Cat Back - 35% Tints - Progress Rear Sway - Philips D2S 4300K - Vibrant Strut Bar - BuddyClub Condenser - SPC Camber Kit - Fujita F5 CAI - StreetUnit Motor Mount - Mazdaspeed Clutch - Rotora Slotted Rotors - Hawk HPS - Indy Fog Mod - Koni Yellow - PSI Tuned - Straight Pipe
NOW 2013 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD Black Mica
am i wrong to see that only 2 runs are being shown?
any time ive seen dynos being done you run more then one run for the base numbers..
i have my speculations about this....
should have been an even amount of runs done on the dyno.. 3 runs with STOCK airbox then 3 runs with CAI.....
i bet you the numbers would be ALOT different then what is being shown here! if an equal amount of runs had been made!