thanks , except for the little hole for drainage...
2007 Mazda3 GT-M 6spd, no mod yet , crystal white pearl
Have you ever been in a car with a stiffer aftermarket engine mount? The vibrations (and sound) that would be normally dampened by the soft stock rubber mount are no longer dampened as much with the new stiffer mount. It's not the mount itself that makes the noise - but the engine, which is no longer dampened as much.
Thanks Scarboro, just finished this mod. There's a definitely a gain in power since the car doesn't feel sluggish anymore with the weight of the 17's I have on. Slightly louder too.
ok...so I can get these PVC pieces at Home depot, right?
anyone would be ok to lend me a drill??
Last edited by vblanche; 05-15-2007 at 03:44 PM.
Yup. Everything was bought at the Ho-po.
so, basically, you get these 3 PVC pieces, glue them as wanted, put in place...and that's it...
Do you need any other mod? will it work with stock engine? filter?
Please, if any of you guys is doing this mod soon, could I come and have a look how you're doing it?
many thanks
don't really need to glue since the pieces fit snugly together. You will also need a 3" rubber coupling to connect the pipe to the air box. Total cost should be about $20~ plus tax. The coupling is just under $10, while the other pieces are between $3-4 each.
Just follow Scarboro's pics.
the pipe should look like this:
look at post #14 for other pictures to help you install.
The hardest part is removing the resonator.
Yeah the pieces fit very snuggly. I did use a little super glue though as a backup just in case it wants to loosen up in extreme temperatures or rough terrain.
And like KenYork said, the hardest part is removing the resonator, which isn't hard at all - there are other threads on how to do this.
Don't forget the cap on this picture:
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/7771/dsc00173or4.jpg
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The Lowerclass
wanted to ask about that and forgot...thanks. where do I get such a cap?
HO-PO!!! lol
hmm i should do something like that..
-Chuckie
Old: 2006 Mazda3 Sport GT, A4D, 5MT
Current: 2010 Mazda3 Sedan GS, 16W, 5AT // 2011 Mazda3 Sport GS, 16W, 6MT
WTB: 2010+ Speed Front Sway Bar, Speed Mid Chassis brace. Let me know what you have.
Chuckie.. anytime...
vblanche post37: it keeps the pipe connected to the airbox with those clamps... you could do without if you can find a way to keep em together.
post 39: yep ho-po!
post 41: you don't have to.. i didn't.
so basically ho-po will provide me everything...but who is this guy? LOL
what's the purpose of ECU reset?
KenYork, Skarbro, did you remove the front bumper?
Last edited by vblanche; 05-15-2007 at 08:13 PM.
I think resetting the ECU allows it to adapt better to the new airflow.
The car will lean on its own how to deal with the new airflow parameters... but resetting the ECU will jump-start that process. Just means unhooking the battery for some period of time and then hooking it back up.
Removing the bumper is not necessary - but will make removing the stock resonator a little easier.
And just like Weas said - resetting the ECU is easy. Just disconnect the battery (ONLY DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE - DO NOT REMOVE THE POSITIVE) for like 30 minutes and you're good to go.
Oh and don't forget to write down your radio settings.
thanks
Well, I just did it tonight, but of course I had to do it differently. I used a 3" to 4" rubber coupler, 4" 90deg elbow, 4" 45deg spigot elbow.
Why 4"? Because if 3" is big, 4" is huge!
I pointed it half way between the louvers on the wheel well splash shield, and the fog light.
Pic from above:
3"-4" rubber coupler - $10.99
4" 90deg - $4.85
4" 45deg spigot - $5.96