Cat-Back vs. Axle-Back

[p-o-g-i]

So I've searched through all the threads....
I've seen numerous ones in regards to the different brands of exhaust systems, but nothing (to my memory) in regards to a cat-back vs. an axle-back. (**axle-back not to be mistaken for just the muffler by itself**)

Obviously a cat-back will give you more power and cost more, but the questions I was looking to get answered were:

1. Approx. how much HP gained between the 2
2. Approx. what is the difference in price
3. What is the difference in sound? tone? loudness?

Thank you ladies and gentlemen for the assistance.

pogi

[p-o-g-i]

I would even settle for questions 2 and 3 to be answered

[p-o-g-i]

Wow... seriously.... no one has any input on this???

[fitalicious]

an axle back system is just from the last muffler joint after the resonator to the back includine changing the muffler canister. so an axle back is simply just a formed muffler fit for that specific car. so its basically a glorified universal muffler. so honestly, you might get 1/2 a horsepower more than installing a universal muffler because of the fitted piping. so a waste of money and simply a money grabber for companies. so if you just want a cheap exhaust, cut off your muffler or resonator and replace it with a straight piece of pipe. and that will give you a grunty exhaust sound. but its all up to you man. but thats my input. an axle back is simply a glorified universal muffler, and a cat back system is the only way to go. it give true flow with no restrictions and gives you top horsepower and torque gains. good luck to you man.

[TurboEight]

even a cat back aint that great if your cats are restrictive......gotta go high flow with that..IMO

[KenYork]

you may as well just do the whole intake--->exhaust tip then.

[fitalicious]

obviously a high flow cat is much much better, everything open is way better for flow. and yes there is only true horsepower and real numbers made when you add an intake set-up, upgrade your fuel system, and do headers all the way back and make everything as open as you can with as little restriction as you can. but the question was which is better cat back or axle back. lmfao

[Junior]

Unless you do the whole setup (as mentioned - intake to exhaust tip) gains will be minimal.

Approx difference in price from a cat back ($700+) or a axel back ($300-$400). All new gear. Used would be cheaper, plus take into account brand, manufacturer and so on.

Some say that the more coin you drop, the throatier sound you get, but not always the case. Too wide will give you ugly-ass rumble and backfire where as the proper size should give you a nice deep tone/hum.

"proper size" would depend on factors such as N/A setup, as opposed to FI setups. Read up on what you want to get or what route you want to go with your car, before making a decision solely based on sound or loudness.

[chinsterr]

even a cat back aint that great if your cats are restrictive......gotta go high flow with that..IMO

High flo cats are overrated.

Go straight or go home (I have done the latter).


Edit: Bah, too much low-end tq is gone when you get a CBE. I have gone through stock-->vibrant with hiflo cat --> mazdaspeed with stock cat and honestly the hiflo cat does nothing for me .

Save your pennies and stick with stock

[crazycanuck]

Not a pro here, but Wikpedia says Axle-back is just another name for Cat-back.

"Cat-back (also cat back and catback, and more recently axle back) refers to the portion of the exhaust system from the outlet of the catalytic converter to the final vent to open air. This generally includes the pipe from the converter to the muffler, the muffler, and the final length of pipe to open air."

Edit: Like Chinsterr so well put it, go straight or go home. The whole idea behind gaining performance from the exhaust system is to reduce back-pressure. Stock systems have a lot of twist and turns in the piping to meet noise regulations. The straighter it is, the less back pressure and better performance.

So I've searched through all the threads....
I've seen numerous ones in regards to the different brands of exhaust systems, but nothing (to my memory) in regards to a cat-back vs. an axle-back. (**axle-back not to be mistaken for just the muffler by itself**)

Obviously a cat-back will give you more power and cost more, but the questions I was looking to get answered were:

1. Approx. how much HP gained between the 2
2. Approx. what is the difference in price
3. What is the difference in sound? tone? loudness?

Thank you ladies and gentlemen for the assistance.

pogi

[cdpiersa]

Is getting a fuel management system worth it on a car w/ header back exhaust. Can you guys explain further. Thanks....

[doughboyr6]

7. Fuel & Spark Tuning [Microtech Standalone ECU] by BeefCake
Price: $1395 (http://www.nsnmotorsports.com/index.php?cPath=30_32)
Install: 1hr to a day (depends heavily on installer)
Thread: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=53367.0
Pros: Full control over engine (fuel and spark)
Cons: Cost, possible engine damage (dependent on tuner)
Peak Power Gains: 6-15 across the entire power band. (stock vehicle; easily more gains to be had with various boltons and additional tuning. The deciding factor is the tuner.)
Sponsor thread link: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=51473.0
The Microtech is a standalone ecu capable of controlling fuel and spark. It's easily adjustable using a wideband o2 sensor (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wideband_%28automotive%29) and free windows based software accessed by a 9 pin serial connection (or USB to serial adapter). Installation consists of about 30 wires that relieve the stock ecu from controlling the engine. 8 injector wires (2 per cylinder), 8 coilpack wires (2 per cylinder), 2 water temp sensor (water temp sensor provided with unit), 2 air temp sensor (air temp sensor provided with unit), 1 switch signal, 3 power (fuel/spark/coilpack relay), 3 ground (fuel/spark controller, relay for coil packs), 2 for crank angle sensor, 2 for the cam angle sensor. Additional wiring for various other aux inputs and outputs are available (fan controls, aftermarket tach, vis controls, wideband o2).

What you get in the box
Microtech LT10 (controls fuel), X4 (controls spark) wiring harness for both units, relay for coil trigger, fuse holder/fuse for power connections, vacuum hose, manuals (PDF/paper), a sweet sticker, base map, serial adapter (used for storing maps) and most of all a little special time with Steve @ NSN if needed. All instructions are provided as a step by step for install and a tuning tutorial to get you on your way to fine tuning.
Extras Needed: Soldering iron/solder/skill, shrink wrap tubing, electrical tape, wire loom, wire cutters/crimper, end crimps (14-18 gauge), multimeter(not needed but good for verifying connections), ring terminals (power/ground), wideband o2/gauge and patience/time.

Ending Notes
Have plenty of time to perform the install and follow ALL directions and you'll have little trouble. Be prepared to cut the factory harness for the injectors and coils. DO NOT try to make it look "pretty" out of the box, get the system up and running before tucking and looming extra wires. Check all connections 3 times and don't monkey with software till you know what you're doing. Have a question? contact Steve @ NSN via email or phone.

Where to buy
Microtech : http://nsnmotorsports.com

[doughboyr6]

the above taken from M3F