brand of synthetic

[Mazda3X2]

I was going to try RP or Amsoil for my 1st change. After doing some research I found out that these oils are not actually API certified for various reasons.

Now I'm not sure. Go with one of these oils, which I believe is probably a better oil than the grpIII synthetics. Or go with something like Pennzoil Platinum, which is a grpIII synthetic but clearly API certified.

I am concerned with warranty issues with Mazda.

What are your thoughts on this issue?

[mdass52]

Guys castrol syntec is $37.94 for a 5 litre jug at walmart

[cereal83]

This is what I have came up with oil prices around my area:

Oil Type comment Price for Total (with tax)

Royal Purple single 50.34
Royal Purple Case 44.74
Mobile 1 (1) cheap 44.78
Mobile 1 (2) Syn 55.99
Redline Best 72.74
Amisol useless 55.94


Seeing that, RP is the cheapest so I just use that but I have to buy in a case of 12 to get the $7.99 price

[cereal83]

I was going to try RP or Amsoil for my 1st change. After doing some research I found out that these oils are not actually API certified for various reasons.

Now I'm not sure. Go with one of these oils, which I believe is probably a better oil than the grpIII synthetics. Or go with something like Pennzoil Platinum, which is a grpIII synthetic but clearly API certified.

I am concerned with warranty issues with Mazda.

What are your thoughts on this issue?

They are not API certified just because they won't provide them with any information like the other oil companies do. They have no specs at all on the oil so it can't be certified, it doesn't mean its bad but we just don't know how good or bad it is. I use RP and I won't switch. Mobile 1 real syn is $49.99 at crappy tire and RP is better so ...

[mprus]

Our engines require SAE 5W20. Will just royal purple of 5w20 work, becuase it doesnt say on the bottle SAE 5W20?

[Flagrum_3]

I was going to try RP or Amsoil for my 1st change. After doing some research I found out that these oils are not actually API certified for various reasons.

Now I'm not sure. Go with one of these oils, which I believe is probably a better oil than the grpIII synthetics. Or go with something like Pennzoil Platinum, which is a grpIII synthetic but clearly API certified.

I am concerned with warranty issues with Mazda.

What are your thoughts on this issue?

Read the back label on the Royal Purple bottle! It states; API Service SL SAE 5w20, Energy Conserving!!


_3

[Mazda3X2]

My point with RP is that is doesn't carry the SM classification. It was still SL. I read the reasoning behind this was because they couldn't (or didn't want to) meet the required lower levels of ZDDP. SM oil has lower levels of this because it was found that it harms catalytic converters. ZDDP is an anti wear additive.

Amsoil states,

APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil is recommended for gasoline engines, diesel engines (API CF, ACEA B5) and other applications requiring any of the listed worldwide specifications:

* API SM/CF, SL, SJ ...
* ILSAC GF-4, 3 ...
* ACEA A5/B5-04
* JASO VTW
* GM 4718M, 6094M
* Ford WSS M2C929-A
* Daimler Chrysler MS-6395N
* VW 503.00

But they are not actually certified.

Both of these situations could pose a warranty issue with Mazda if something were to happen to your engine. Some people might not want that hassle. If again the problem was deemed to be anything oil related you would have a real hard time. Then you have to rely on either Amsoil or RP to back you or cover the damages themselves. Good luck with that process. You car will be in the garage for months.

It all comes down to risk management really. What are the chances anyone will have a catastrophic engine failure during your warranty? Slim. Even if you used the worst certified oil out there I'm sure it would do ok for at least 5 years or longer. Cars have been doing it for a very long time.

Read the back label on the Royal Purple bottle! It states; API Service SL SAE 5w20, Energy Conserving!!_3

[Nextmod]

Motul 300V =)

[06Touring3]

Amisol useless 55.94

useless? care to explain why?

[Mazda3X2]

Isn't Motul 300V a racing oil?

I thought that racing oils didn't contain the additives needed to keep an engine clean during everyday driving. Looking at the specs it appears to have a pretty high pour point too, wouldn't this hurt cold starting?

Just wondering because everything I had been told or read about oils was that racing oils were not good for daily driven vehicles. I could be misinformed about this and wouldn't mind knowing.

http://www.rallysport.ca/lubricants/...255%20(GB).pdf

Motul 300V =)

[midnightfxgt]

I run RP 15W40.... worked fine in the winter too

[Flagrum_3]

My point with RP is that is doesn't carry the SM classification. It was still SL. I read the reasoning behind this was because they couldn't (or didn't want to) meet the required lower levels of ZDDP. SM oil has lower levels of this because it was found that it harms catalytic converters. ZDDP is an anti wear additive.

Amsoil states,

APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil is recommended for gasoline engines, diesel engines (API CF, ACEA B5) and other applications requiring any of the listed worldwide specifications:

* API SM/CF, SL, SJ ...
* ILSAC GF-4, 3 ...
* ACEA A5/B5-04
* JASO VTW
* GM 4718M, 6094M
* Ford WSS M2C929-A
* Daimler Chrysler MS-6395N
* VW 503.00

But they are not actually certified.

Both of these situations could pose a warranty issue with Mazda if something were to happen to your engine. Some people might not want that hassle. If again the problem was deemed to be anything oil related you would have a real hard time. Then you have to rely on either Amsoil or RP to back you or cover the damages themselves. Good luck with that process. You car will be in the garage for months.

It all comes down to risk management really. What are the chances anyone will have a catastrophic engine failure during your warranty? Slim. Even if you used the worst certified oil out there I'm sure it would do ok for at least 5 years or longer. Cars have been doing it for a very long time.

Then use Mobil1 it's SM rated...simple!.....

Lmao, I've been using Mobil1 since 15k and never even bothered looking at whether it was SL or SM because basically it makes very little difference.(I just recently switched to Royal Purple)...Ask yourself the question when looking at the RP; Do you want more protection for your engine or for your Cat? cause that's what it comes down to from what your saying.
Personally I can't see the dealer making a fuss about it either aslong as you stay with 5w-20 or 5w-30 grade, depending on what you own.


_3

[Mazda3X2]

If you read my posts it really had nothing to do with me wanting protection for my cats. It was all a matter of warranty assurance plain and simple.

I wanted peoples opinions on this, and to know if in general they were making educated decisions or if they didn't know any different.

Like I said, risk management. Measure the rewards against the possible risks involved. If one outweighs the other to your personal stand point, go ahead. Look out for yourself, because no one else will, that's a guaranty.

[Flagrum_3]

Okay, Got yeah I have always tried to impress on people whenever the topic came up to Read the owner's manual...Its simple, if you want the absolute assurance that whatever happens, your warranty will be fine then use 'exactly' what the book calls for, grade, rating and all.Seeing as SM is backward compliant we should all be using it now, even though some of our cars call for SL.....Still wondering when it changed, I can't seem to get the Owner's manuals to open on the Mazda.ca site to find out.


_3

[cereal83]

useless? care to explain why?

Just personal opinion mostly. Why pay 9.99 for Amisol when RP is only 7.99 when bought by the case? Thats $10 cheaper per oil change for far superior oil.

[Mazda3X2]

Playing devils advocate here.

Cheaper I understand just fine. But can you expand on why RP is far superior? Or is that your opinion?

Just personal opinion mostly. Why pay 9.99 for Amisol when RP is only 7.99 when bought by the case? Thats $10 cheaper per oil change for far superior oil.

[cereal83]

Playing devils advocate here.

Cheaper I understand just fine. But can you expand on why RP is far superior? Or is that your opinion?

Once again its my opinion based on reading several oil comparisons. I will post links if I can find them.

[Mazda3X2]

Fair enough, I actually wanted to try RP. May use it next change.

[midnightfxgt]

This is a good read. I was in the dark pretty much when it came to SL and SM ratings.

Seeing as how I have no cats on the car, and had great luck with Royal Purple, I am staying there. Not to mention my 140K KMs put me well outside warranty worries. My advice to anyone worried about warranty would be to stick with what is in the owners manual. Do I think you will have a problem if they see you run RP, and the motor pops? I highly doubt it, but it is risk u run

[S.F.W.]

when I made the switch recently to Synthetic, I went redline. I have read many good things about this oil...as a side benefit, it is SM, so I have nothing to worry about.

[06Touring3]

Just personal opinion mostly. Why pay 9.99 for Amisol when RP is only 7.99 when bought by the case? Thats $10 cheaper per oil change for far superior oil.

where are you finding Amsoil for that price? Customer cost through a dealer is i believe $7.50/qt....and if you can get dealer cost (which i believe Kriseka sells to TM3 members) it's roughly $5 and change for a quart....so....don't really know where you got 9.99 from because i didnt' pay that

and as far as RP being far superior...that's debateable

[Ogata]

so the consensus is more or less a ballpark answer for what you want to do. I decided to switch to Synthetic on my 2nd change but have not decided whether to go RP,Redline or Amsoil.

[Flagrum_3]

so the consensus is more or less a ballpark answer for what you want to do. I decided to switch to Synthetic on my 2nd change but have not decided whether to go RP,Redline or Amsoil.

You can't loose going with anyone of those brands....comes down to which you can get the cheapest imo.


_3

[cereal83]

I would go synthetic only if you want to keep the car until it dies or your a bit rough on the car. If your a Miss Daisy driver, go with just conventional oil and that's my opinion

[MikeyGT]

I know i'm bringing this thread back to life, but I cant seem to find my answer anywhere. Would there be any issue if you switched synthetic oil brand often to the car?

Thanks