Raising Rear Suspension

[Halogen]

Anyone know how ?

Could I do it with stock struts/shocks ?

I notice that the M3 sedan models have raised rear suspension, you can practically see the axle looking from behind.

[Chuckie]

The suspension between the hatch and the sedan are the same.

The hatch has extra weight in the rear which pushes the rear down a bit more.

Im pretty sure raising your suspension will make your performance worse.

If you want a raked look, go with lower springs which lower the front more than the rear.

like these s-techs: http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...ad.php?t=34461

[Halogen]

How will it effect the cars performance ?

In my opinion, the car feels too low already. With 4 passengers (including driver) the car has bottomed out numerous times. Plus, with all the stuff I store in the back, the cars front is often higher.

What about in the situation where you were towing a trailer with a lot of tongue weight?

[Noisy Crow]

How will it effect the cars performance ?

In my opinion, the car feels too low already. With 4 passengers (including driver) the car has bottomed out numerous times. Plus, with all the stuff I store in the back, the cars front is often higher.

What about in the situation where you were towing a trailer with a lot of tongue weight?

You want stiffer springs, not a higher car......

[Halogen]

Any recommendations (besides dropping the front with s-techs) ?

[Donutz]

What exactly are you trying to achieve? An even drop or a raked look? Performance or looks?

[Halogen]

I want the car to compensate for heavier weights in the rear end during travel and towing situations. I would love to achieve a raked style, and I want the car to be a safe distance away from the road to avoid bottoming out, road hazards, winter road conditions and tire rubbing.

I realize that raising the back end will put more stress on the front suspension/wheels and decrease performance, but would it not also improve traction under certain conditions ?

I think it might be possible that the rear suspension just needs replacement, and like it was suggested, with a stiffer springs. The car is a 2005 at 88,000km (bought used) and I don't imagine they've been touched since it left the factory. Plus, front OEM springs/struts probably couldn't handle the added stress, so those would have to be replaced as well right (?)

I read that Mazda3 uses a rear Multi-link suspension system (designed by Ford?) Says here, apparently good for off-roading applications, ever heard of such a thing with the M3 ?

Also, when I do eventually go after-market, I don't actually have to lower the car, that is optional right ?

<---Sorry, suspension systems newb

[seelsy]

no you don't have to lower it, just look for something with stiffer springs. Many companies offer a range of applications, what you'd be looking for is a spring that is stiffer but has an oem ride height, which is available out there, maybe some of the more knowledgable guys can give me a hand with a manufacturer here?

[Donutz]

For springs, RacingBeat has a miminal drop; less than an inch iirc.

In some repects I think the performance you are looking for is in part related to your struts. You might want to consider stiffer struts so they don't compress as easily as your stock struts.

[1337trix]

get coil-overs with a custom stiffer rear spring rate and keep the coil-overs as high as they can go

[Halogen]

Finally I understand what you guys are talking about !! I had all the wheels off today for a caliper resurfacing/paint job, and spent some time familiarizing myself with the front/rear wheel suspension setup. Now all the pictures of coil-over kits look so much more interesting too me.

My mind is basically made up, now I just need to start saving up for a good kit, used or new. However, I really wish there was an easy alternative for the time being. Can't I adjust the OEM shock, set the compression up or something ? I was even considering installing a custom spacer/mount between the OEM strut where it connects at the well, would that work?

Also, how do you gauge a shock to determine its holding capacity or compression ratio ? How do these relate to the drive ability, comfort and performance ?

Thanks.

[Donutz]

You can not adjust the stock suspension. You could get a set of Koni yellows that have soft / mid / hard settings. If you want something like 20% increased stiffness you could get mazdaspeed shocks. If you can get your hands on OEM msp3 shocks / struts you will probably get the best bang for your buck.

I would suggest getting shocks and struts. I'm not clear if you understand the implications of stiffening up the rear end of your car and leaving the front stock. I guess you could counteract some of the changes in handling characteristics by running slightly lower tire pressure in the back tires. Try researching modifying suspensions; avoid peoples reviews of products and try and get down to understanding the benefits and characteristics of different modifications; from the questions you've been asking, I would suggest trying to understand the affects on handling with a stiffer rear. I'm not sure that a stiffer rear (only) will be the safest for you given that one of your posts above question using your car to tow a trailer. Most people here will tell what they think about aftermarket suspensions, but I'd wager that most people here don't tow trailers with their cars.

[pinoy_eh]

An easy and economical way for your car not to bottom-out especially when you have a load on the rear and still maintaining the stock height of your car, is by inserting a coil rubber spring booster. Just lift your car until your rear suspension until it is fully extended and insert 2 spring booster in between the spring coil opposite each other. Do this to both left and right coil springs.

These boosters will make your coil spring stff by limiting the spring compression travel. I've used this for year when I still had my Mazda GLC because I frequently have 3 extra passengers on a lot of occasions. As for the handling in the highway while fully loaded will become stable, not significant in my observation. If the car is empty, it will be a bit bumpy.

You can use this link for your reference, http://images.google.ca/images?hl=en...-8&sa=N&tab=wi

[Halogen]

Thats a great idea, thanks !

I am also trying to get my rear fenders rolled upwards so it stops chewing the hell out of my tires !

[Halogen]

Well, thanks to "pinoy eh", I did some searching around and bought a set of good rubber spring boosters at Partsource. I think they were 12$ each. I was originally going to get the metal bolt type, but listened to the advise of the counter guy and bought the thick heavy duty ring type rubber boosters. (say that 10x fast) We figured it would result in less stress on singular compression area's by distributing the weight better.



Install was pretty tough but straight forward. I jacked the car up as high as possible, right from the center of the frame so that both tires would drop down. Got under her and cursed and pushed the ring into place. I found it easier to start with the lower edge and then work them up around, then the top kinda shifted in. When I dropped her back down I could see that the back end was higher, and more well space around tires.

Conclusion is, that I feel a ton better about the drive and the peace of mind knowing she wont bottom out anymore. My rear passenger tire looks like its been mauled by a gang of angry house cats. (scraps and scratches around sidewall)

Check out the pics.

[baymoe]

What type of loads are you subjecting your vehicle? Are those OEM wheels that you're running? If they are, i see no reason for them to get "chewed up". Mind posting a picture of your wheels and fenders?

[Halogen]

Wheels are; 17" x 7.5 and the tire size is 225/45/R17. Trust me when I say they were being chewed up. It's all good now though, the tires will hold and last another season.

I figure that the rear OEM springs are just weak (5+ years old). To give you an idea of load; I would get fender rub if I hit a heavy dip going 60km with a passenger in the front. Normal cargo load includes; 2 full tool boxes, full 17" OEM spare wheel, 2x tubberware bins, a skate-board, first-aid kit, flashlight, box full of motor oil, grease/lubes, anti-freeze, brake fluid, water, more tools, etc. (My estimate would be 150lbs in supplies or about the weight of a normal adult passenger)

The boosters provided a quick fix for an aged and weak set of springs. I probably would never put boosters in new springs and instead look for stiffer shocks.

[baymoe]

Eeks, that sounds terrible. Are they stock wheels with the correct offset that you're running? I can see weak shocks and springs the culprit for bottoming out, but tire rubbing is a whole different matter.

[Halogen]

Let me rephrase then, tire rubbing is not an issue on my car, never was (at least not against the well.) The tires as they are now, sit in line with the rear fender lip. During a hard drop, the lip would catch on the outer tread and did some damage to the rubber.

It WAS terrible and I cringed and cursed every time it happened. Hence why I feel so much better now.

Still looking to get those damn fenders rolled too.

[msowsun]

My 2007 Mazda3 GT was sitting low in the back, especially with 4 adults and towing a small trailer.

I installed Mazda5 rear springs and now it sits much higher, especially with a load. The Mazda5 Moog part number is 81695.