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Thread: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

  1. #1
    Jr Member starscream's Avatar
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    Default Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    So I have a hard time getting smooth shifts between gears 1-2 and 2-3. From everything I read its the rear engine mount and the shifter bushings that are the culpurits of this.

    The shifter bushings are a definate change, they are cheap and no brainers.

    But the rear mount is where I have questions, what are you guys running? and what do you recommend? Right now the 2 that I see are the SU Rear Engine mount and the CPe Rear Mount. I saw a thread (I think from Fobio, correct me if I am wrong) where his mount failed (it was a SU mount). I personally dont want to buy a part where I am going to have a worry that it may fail (not saying that it is, but you get what i mean). The CPe mount is a tad bit more, but apparently its a very good mount with minimal vibrations.

    I have heard of the TRZ dogbone, but that has CRAZY vibrations and I definatly dont want crazy vibrations.

    Anyone have any recommendations? or what they use? any word on the failrate of the SU mounts (I also remember reading it could have been a bad batch)?

  2. #2
    Jr Member MRT_MS3's Avatar
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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    I gotta say that this is the most annoying part of this car.

    I did this mod which helped a bit. Ive also ordered the CorkSport Urethane MM Inserts off protegegarge and its taking them a month to ship since its backordered.
    ¤ 2008.5 CWP MS3 ¤


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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    I have been running the SU mount like Fobio for about 4 months now. It has seen 3 track days and 1 drag strip night, and is still going strong. The only thing is the vibrations are a bit annoying, especially when the AC is on and the revs drop to 650rpm. I used my AP to bump them up to 800rpm minimum and the problem is not so bad.
    1995 R33 GTR - Midnight Purple, BBS LM Championships, 98GTR Xenon, HKS, Greddy, OS Giken, Apexi
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    Sr Member Donutz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    Spend the money and get the CPE.
    Is not here

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    Ive had the SU mount for a year now. I bought it used off Unoriginalusername who had it probably a year aswell. Probably about 60,000kms on this mount now and it still feels 100% great. I took my stock rear mount out around 25,000kms probably, and there was a huge rip in it.

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    My rear was already starting to tear, I got it replaced under warranty. I'll watch it and see how long it takes to have this one start to tear now lol. Plan on getting an aftermarket mount just not sure which yet.
    Garrick
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    Member WeatherB's Avatar
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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    Last I saw there wasn't a mount that kept the stock levels of vibrations. All of them, including the CPe, increase the vibs significantly.

    The stock one is a keeper for me.

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    All aftermarket mounts will increase vibration. It is a tradeoff to having the mount made with stiffer materials. The stock mount is made soft to quell vibrations, whereas CPE, SU, Medieval all use harder materials to limit engine movement, and thus increase vibration.

    It is the same as with brakes. A higher temp brake, uses more metal, and makes more squealing, can't get around it.

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    Sr Member Gizzmo_jr's Avatar
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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    Can't have everything, just gotta put up with the vibrations. My streetunit with 70duro is pretty manageable. Then you go into the higher race versions, you'll be chattering your teeth at the red lights.
    Diesel tractor...

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    I had the SU for over 30,000km...the bushing was slowly worked out of the mount. It didn't fail, but it was on its way out. I still got to get around to having it covered.

    I'm running a CP-e mount now...it's actually a little more vibe than the SU...but nothing worth complaining about.

    Either mount works, and works well...you just got to break it in proper...if you *****-foot it, it'll always be firm...launch it, rev it to redline, get it nice and hot...but that's just me... =)

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    Newbie 007's Avatar
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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    For peace of mind, just buy a CP-e mount.

    COBB AP Stage II, Goodridge G-Stop brake lines, Saikou Michi OCC, Hothkis Sway Bar kit, GT Spec Rear Lower tie Brace, Koni Sport Shocks, Eibach Pro Kit Springs, SPC adjustable rear camber arms, CP-e TMIC, SU Boost tubes, CP-e HPFP, CP-e X-Cel CAI, CP-e Turbo Inlet Pipe, Forge V2 BPV, CP-e MM, Street Unit Test Pipe, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge, TWM SS Kit with Bushings & Knob, SU Shortcut, 4300K HID fog conversion kit, Apexi Turbo Timer

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    But, did you guys notice smoother shifting with either one?
    2010 TR Mazdaspeed 3

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    Quote Originally Posted by 3DEE View Post
    But, did you guys notice smoother shifting with either one?
    Yes.

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    Sr Member Donutz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    Quote Originally Posted by alhope34 View Post
    Yes.
    +1

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    +1 with the SU. Much less notchy between gears.

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    I also have the Redline MT-90. That helped a lot, too.

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    CP-e all the way....
    Falken FK-452 | 225-45R18 | Konig Hotswap |35% Tints| Greddy TT| Cobb Sri| Cobb Shifter| Cobb AP Stage 2| BC Coilovers | Cobb Shifter Weight| Cobb Inlet Pipe |TS BOV |Dashhawk| COBB FMIC |CPE MM|CPE TBE| NRG ETD|
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    Sr Member Donutz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    Quote Originally Posted by stormin84 View Post
    CP-e all the way....
    Hellz yeah! I've gone through CS inserts and the Medieval mount. I could have saved myself over $100 by just going straight to the CPE; tis the shiznat (kids still say this, right?).

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    Jr Member starscream's Avatar
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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    Ordered a CP-e Mount...

    I get sooo agrivated trying to do a nice pull but cant because of the 1-2, 2-3 gear jerk/thud/insert word here... Its like I can never get a smooth shift between those gears unless I am totally granny driving.

    I hope this with the shifter bushing mod or even a short shifter w/ the bushing mod would help.

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    Jr Member Mty Mous's Avatar
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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    So is this problem only on the DISI engines or do us non-MS3 owners need to worry about them too?

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    So mounts are the reason this car is so clunky when shifting?

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    Quote Originally Posted by lasersocks View Post
    So mounts are the reason this car is so clunky when shifting?
    That, and the crappy stock transmission oil. I did the rear mount and oil and shifts really smooth ever since.

    Rear mount and Redline MT-90 oil. Can't go wrong!

  23. #23
    Jr Member starscream's Avatar
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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    WOOT! CPe Rear Mount is in

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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    Just got my cp-e mount last night, haven't thrown it on yet... Maybe this weekend. This is the mount that's easy to get at right? (The one under the battery box?)

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    Sr Member Donutz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Engine Mounts (Specifically Rear)

    If you bought the rear motor mount, it is not under the battery. It is under the car between the sub-frame and the ... engine! Look for how-to's as there are a few walk throughs. It is pretty easy to swap out, but I always go to Jimmy because I'm not comfortable crawling under my car, even on jack stands.

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