Slightly off topic but I just got the M3M engine torque dampener on my car and it made the shifts even smoother (I'd say more significantly than the rear mount did) and pretty much reduced wheel hop to zero
Slightly off topic but I just got the M3M engine torque dampener on my car and it made the shifts even smoother (I'd say more significantly than the rear mount did) and pretty much reduced wheel hop to zero
I'm thinking of getting a ETD for my MS3, but I was reading on the mazda3forums.com site and a couple people suggest you replace your stock rear mounts before if you plan on installing a ETD. Is that true or can you just go with the ETD and get the rear engine mounts done later?
They said it would put to much stress on the rear mounts.
2001 Mazda P5 Black - Sold
2005 Mazda 3 GT Black - Sold
2007 MS3 Cosmic Blue Mica
Cobb SF SRI - Cobb AP - Cobb TIH - CP-E TMIC - CP-E HPFP - CP-E DP - CP-E RMM(65A) - JBR TMM(80A) - Forge BPV - EGR Delete - SM OCC - Ford Full Synthetic MT Fluid - 225/40/18 Hankook Ventus V12's - TWM STS + bushings - 8000K HID Fogs - KY + Eibach Prokit Springs - JBR RSB - Rhoplate - Blue LED Interior lights - Black Weathertech liners - Blue SICKSPEED Horns - Blackvue DR400GHD
TBI: Thermal TB and Intake Gasket
Got my CP-E RMM installed by Jimmy this weekend.. man what a difference... love it so far.. the extra cabin vibration isn't that bad at all.. doesn't even bother me. Even letting the clutch out now it seems to grab quicker.. you could say.. not sure how to explain it but feels a lot different then before. And after seeing the POS stock mount.. what a joke that mount is compared to the CP-E RMM.
I'd have to say this is one of the best purchases so far for my car.. I've decided to go with the PTP Kicker plate next and pass on the ETD.
For anyone who hasn't bought a RMM I highly recommend it, it eliminates 80% + of the wheel hop. I was still able to notice some hop.. but very very minimal at that.
Turok - did you get the 60 or 75?
i'll go with 60, 75 dm is too stiff and vibrate little more.
2008.5 BLACK MICA SPEED 3
Just picked up my CP-E REMM last night...Gonna have Jimmy install it when I get the rest of the stuff in. Looking forward to it!
Sorry Kinn, missed your post
It says 60/75 on the site.. but when I got my CP-E RMM it says 65 on the actual rubber part of the mount.
Ya your gonna enjoy it.. I love it.. wheel hop is like 90% gone.. there isn't as much lunge with the engine when you shift at higher rpms
Honestly one of the best upgrades so far and Jimmy can install these in no time
More then anything, I grabbed it to tighten up the clutch and shifting since everyone says that it really changed that.. I don't drive it hard enough that I notice wheel hop much.
Going to wait until my STSP comes in then gonna have Jimmy do that the REMM and the mudflaps all at the same time. He'll do it in like 5% of the time it would take me. See if he'll do a once over too and make sure everything's fine.
No I got it through a friend of mine.
Jimmy installed one of these last week. Even though my Mazda isn't a speed, I can immediately feel the difference in the way it shifts, definitely feels like more power is going to actually moving the car forward, instead of being eaten up by the engine rocking back and forth. I wouldn't hesitate to do this mod again... there is a nice difference in the way the car sounds, feels and transfers power to the wheels. Also, as mentioned above, I ordered the 60 durometer but it says 65a on the rubber portion. The whole CPE mount is very solid aluminum with solid rubber... the OEM mount is puny by comparison, and the rubber has cut-outs - no wonder it felt so soft.
getting my street unit RMM installed tomorrow it is a 2 piece unit and rated at 62a. then I will install solid shifter bushings will let you know how it is. Here is write up on mount,"Street-Unit Motor Mounts are completely redesigned from the OEM mounts and engineered to provide the user with maximum benefit without excessively increasing vibration. They are CNC machined out of billet aluminum and the bushings are 62A durometer urethane. The two piece aluminum and steel design is reinforced by two grade 12.8 allen key bolts with a yield strength of 160,000 psi, topped off with locktite. The 2 piece aluminum/steel design will yield a longer life span than a 1 piece 6061 aluminum or welded steel mount.
Benefits of Street Unit Engine Mount Replacements:
•Reduce unwanted "wheel hop" that plagues the FWD MS3 and Mazda3
•Solid 62A durometer bushings
•Recover torque lost in the drivetrain
•Billet aluminum is aesthetically very pleasing in the engine bay
•Minimize drivetrain lash
•Must have for all MS3's
•Bolt-on installation and does not require the motor to be removed or supported"
$149 with shifter bushings awesome deal and there are in stock were back ordered for awhile!
RMM been on car for 10 days now and you feel the difference soon as you drive off!! I only got vibration between-1000rpm the day of install, next day was gone never had any vibes at idle or with a/c on. Have not had any wheel hop or loud bang when shifting hard. Everything seems to be firmed up from steering to gearbox with improved shifter feel with RMM and shifter bushings.
Does anyone know what side is up and what side faces the pavement on the SU RMM?
Sorry the bring back to old thread... for the people who has cpe rmm, do you guys have 60 or 75 duro?
Current: 2016 Lexus GS-F, 2017 Honda CRV Touring
Past: 2015 Scion FRS 6MT, 2010 M3 E90 6MT, 2013 Scion FRS 6MT, 2005 Mazda 3 GT Hatch.
60
Is not here
60....75 vibrates too hard for me
Hey guys,
I've been looking for the cp-e RMM (60 durometer) and it seems they don't make them anymore, or they are on backorder. Looks like my option now is the SU mount. For those that have this mount, whats your experience? any problems?
Thanks!
Also forgot to ask, did you buy them directly from the SU website or through one of our sponsors?
Thanks.
Bought mine from the rpm store. By locally if you can; that's my personal opinion.
I am going to get 75 duro cpe.... hope it won't be too bad...
guys how much is the cp-e 75 and how much does it cost to get it installed?
Installation should be free because it's so easy, that you really should do it yourself, and google can help you with the rest.
its really easy to do. did mine not long ago. only thing with mine is that the bolts were on there good. and i didnt have the luxury of a hoist so i couldnt get much leverage but nothing a longer wrench wont help with.
im happy with mine. only thing is since its stiffer now (AWR) it blew the last motor mount that i haven't changed yet. and it happens to be the hardest one to change.