My 2006 70000km Mazda 3 has also the same problem with shaking (rough idle) during stop on red light. Idle rpm drops down approximately to 600-650rpm; the problem is that it happens only 60-70% of the time which makes it difficult to troubleshoot.
Here are couple things I have noticed;
1. If I put the transmission in neutral while pressing on brake pedal the idle rpm is normal and there is no shaking?
2. when I leave the transmission in drive, pull the parking brake and remove my foot from the brake pedal, again the rpm rises to normal and there is no more shaking., if in the mean time I push the brake pedal again without releasing the parking brake the shaking comes back. Basically I could control my idle (or shaking) with brake pedal??
These two tests indicate to me that something is intermittently wrong with the vacuum system or/and computer program which controls idle rpm when the power brake is applied or released during red-light stop??
Only Mazda could definitely answer this rough idle question.
happens to my car too when i press the brake in drive the RPMs dip but the car doesn't shake. I told Mazda about it they said it could be the gas, temperature all kind of bull crap No Cel light oo nothings wrong with it.
I'm going through this problem right now.
Its driving me nuts.
I have a 2005 70k gt
If it's purge valve, what code would CEL be throwing?
- Would you say this is a beginner DIY type replacement? If not, recommendations on garages to go to and how much it will cost?
If it's spark plugs, same as above, beginner DIY? garage/cost to replace?
I'm out in the AJAX area
Thanks!
I had this problem aswell, get your engine mounts checked out! I had to replace all of them and one cost me $295 and the other was significantly cheaper but still expensive
Missing the mazda life
I've had this problem for quite some time now and have been trying to troubleshoot as well. I have an additional problem that i think might be related (or not!). Mine is a manual, and at a light the car will shake and the rpms will drop from 1000 to 500...same as the OP. so now when this happens (and its intermittent), when i launch from the light the car starts to accelerate, but it bogs down quite significantly to the point where i have the ride the clutch because it feels like its going to stall out. I've tried to check the resistance in my coils, they are all within range, but i didn't get any resistance reading when i was testing the insulation of the boot..could this be the problem? I've cleaned the throttle body, checked my engine mounts, replaced the plugs and this problem is still present. Any suggestions??
'05 GT, Black Mica, with the following upgrades: 8000K HID's, shark fin, black OEM rims, blacked out emblems., Tints, Grom Ipod adapter, and the most important upgrade...TM3 plate cover!
"Some people are like a slinky.....not really good for anything but it brings a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs"
well i removed the MAF and cleaned it with some electrical contact cleaner, it was pretty dirty...also I've cleaned my K&N filer recently as well.....I also forgot to mention that i seem to be going through about a liter of Oil every 2500Km or so (not sure how i forgot to mention that)
ya some these Mazda`s drink oil does it smoke a lot it ? Sometimes the wire harness to the Maf get shorted and cause bogging very common problem.
what most people do is start the car and play with the wires to the maf and listen for a change in the engine sound. Or even let someone rev the car not to much and play with them if the engine changes in sound its one of the wires
I have this issue as well that has been driving me nuts. As whodaman says, you really have to give it more gas or ride the clutch slightly longer because of the low rev idle. I took it to the dealer this morning (for an oil change, and to fix a squeaky clutch pedal as well), and they could not replicate the idle issue...They said that they drove it for 20km and could not replicate or get any codes from the car. I am picking it up in about 2 hours....if it idles strange when I take it home, somebodygonnagetahurt realbad
Any pictures/steps to replace the purge valve? Part numbers?
Thanks!
PS - My car only has 17,000 km on it, and the rough idle has been present since about 12,000 km.
2009 Mazda 3 Sport GT
Luxury Package | Black Mica | 5spd Manual | WeatherTech FloorLiners (Front)
I found the Service Manual...disregard my previous question!
It was just a pedal sqeauk from inside the car. When I picked up the car, they stated that they lubed it, and the noise was gone. I go in the car, and the &&*#&$* pedal now CLICKS (like a pen click) twice on each press and depress. Totally more annoying and unacceptable. I march back in and speak with the service manager, and explain how deaf or lazy the tech must be to leave it like that, make it worse, and write it's resolved in the invoice.
I ended up having to wait 2 hours for them to replace the clutch pedal assembly. No more noise.
...the shake at idle is still apparent though. Their tech did not notice this when he went for the test drive. Not sure what else to do. The car is not showing any codes, and they (well at least they say they did) inspected for vacuum leaks, purge valve, throttle body. Not sure what else to do..
Cheers!
I just had my car serviced for shaking at idle. Had them look at the engine mounts which were fine so they suggested a throttle body/maf sensor clean. Pulled off the throttle body and it was really dirty. Car doesn't shake anymore.
True, had the same issue with my mazda 3.
cleaned TB- issue still there,
Replaced purge selenoid - fixed 'almost stalling' problem
It seems better now but car still shakes on idle. I dont know what the problem could be, maybe EGR valve ???
At least it doesnt stall anymore, purge was bad and im sure of it, after replacing it it was stuck open i could blow air right through it.
No i havent checked em, but i think that might be it, it didnt shake that much when i got the car 6 months ago, now it seems worse at lower rpm, so it has to be it,
But regardles how bad engine mounts are my rpm shouldnt dropp to 500-600rpm.
while vehicle is in motion and i put it in neutrat rpm stays around 800-900, then soonest i stop after maybe like 10 sec it drops to 500-600.
Bad engine mount wouldnt cause it to drop.
Got the same problem. Cleaned the TB and MAF which solved the idle hunting between 750 - 500 prm, but car shakes while idling and suddenly drops down to below 500 rpm before the ECU kicks it back higher - almost stalls. Went to the local dealer parts guy, but he insists that a bad purge valve would throw a code, which mine hasn't yet. The engine mount SEEMS to be ok as you cannot feel any engine vibs at the bolt locations, but I may replace based on results from replacing purge valve. BTW does anyone know where I can find a good parts dept in the GTA? The guy at Ajax Mazda doesn't seem to know what part no. will fit my '05 2.3?
Hey Same problem here, Car Shakes and idles low then jumps then drops. Was stalling, tried running some premium fuel and fuel injector cleaner, ran a little better for a while, eventually started stalling again. Also has very hard time starting after filling up gas...
Cleaned EGR valve and replaced Evap purge valve
Doesnt seem to be stalling right now, only the shudder and floating RPM's are still happening when not in gear and at idle.
This problem is driving me nuts, its a manual 2004 with 108k on it.
Any other thoughts? Im going to look into the MAF and the throttle body...
heyyy i had the same issue.
Turned out it was my purge selenoid valve that was stuck open so every time i filled up gas it would stall righ away. test it, you can have it running and take out your gas cap, if it starts dropping rpm and almost stalling, thats where your problem is.
If not then look into your throttle body and clean it with canadian tire cleaner in spray. that stuff just dissolves all the gunk.
i did all of it and wazs able to fix the problem but my rpm still idles around 500-700. im not worried about that, lower idling rpm means less gas used so w.e .