MS3 Engine Oil Threads

[Pacman]

Looks like its stock oil change for now. Apparently mazda only fills the 2011 speed 3 disi engine with conventional oil at 5w30. If I put anything else in it'll void my warranty.

[Thrizzl3]

Looks like its stock oil change for now. Apparently mazda only fills the 2011 speed 3 disi engine with conventional oil at 5w30. If I put anything else in it'll void my warranty.

that's so dumb. i'd choose a different dealer. Putting a grade higher to protect the motor more will void warranty? lol wow...

[Mr Wilson]

Think breakfasteatre had the same issue.

GenJuans don't seem to follow as they had 5w-40 as a fix for the smoking turbo.

[captobvious75]

-- Black Mica Mazdaspeed 3 --
STOCK FTW ... well because warranty

except on oil filters....

Didn't think it counts lol

[TheMAN]

Looks like its stock oil change for now. Apparently mazda only fills the 2011 speed 3 disi engine with conventional oil at 5w30. If I put anything else in it'll void my warranty.

as I said, there's nothing stated in the manual that running synthetic will void your warranty
READ THE MANUAL CAREFULLY

[pwdunmore]

as I said, there's nothing stated in the manual that running synthetic will void your warranty
READ THE MANUAL CAREFULLY

Agreed, the company would have to prove the synethetic oil was the issue to refuse warranty. If they did that to me I would lawyer up pretty dam fast

On another note...
This thread is for people who want what is best for the car and we all know conventional oil breaks down a lot faster than rotella t6/PP.
Stop bogging up this thread with warranty crap... we all care about it but it only matters if you get a smoking turbo or have oil system issues.

[TheMAN]

if you're so worried about the damned warranty and bending over pleasing the dealer, go ahead and run the 5W30 dino piss... you should think about selling the car after the warranty expires/paid off too because at that point, running crap oil will have worn down your engine and turbo enough that it won't be worth keeping

IF running better oil voids the warranty, who f'ing cares? The engine and turbo are better protected, and they wear less... shouldn't that cause LESS problems than the recommended crap? Besides that, they have very little way of proving you're running synthetic or a thicker grade oil at first glance
fact of the matter is, the likelihood of the engine blowing up due to a defect is so unlikely because if there was an issue, it would have blown up the first few weeks of owning the car... beyond that, the only reason why it will blow up or go bad is due to stupidity

[rzapata]

Yeah, there's too much information available already. If people still argue about "because dealer says this and that," let them. No point convincing stubborn people. Let's come back to this though a few years down the road....

[Mr Wilson]

Moved discussion to the proper thread.

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...n-Thread/page2

This is the Speed 3 oil thread.

[Elusivellama]

So I just called in to a Mazda dealer, and they told me I should not be putting synthetic oil in my speed3, as Mazda does not approve/recommend it. ?!

Kind of late reply, but don't go back to that dealer

[Karmaspeed]

Looks like its stock oil change for now. Apparently mazda only fills the 2011 speed 3 disi engine with conventional oil at 5w30. If I put anything else in it'll void my warranty.

FYI I go to Whitby Mazda for my services and they use Castrol Synthetic which they stock normally on my 2012 speed3; so your dealership is either full of BS, lying, or just plain stupid.

edit: I just read all the posts after your post and realized that your dealership was already pretty much labeled as stupid

[TheSinghShow5]

Just switched last week from mobil 5w-30 to rotella 5w-40 and what a difference it makes. My car just feels more smooth when its running. I really notice the diffrent on cold starts in the morning too.

[hemlor]

40% off 5L Pennzoil Platinum jugs at CT until April 10 for those that use this oil. I'm using Rotella but this is a great price, thinking of picking up a few jugs

[captobvious75]

Sick thanks

[SomeGuy]

Anyone try the new Pennzoil Platinum with Pure Plus? It's apparently a GTL oil (natural gas based) replacement for regular Pennzoil Platinum. We know that PP is the usual alternative to Rotella T6 if you want 5w30 weight, so the hope is this new one is just as good as the old one.

It's also on for $26.99 at Napa for the month of May, so would be the time to stock up if it's good.

[mickey_g]

Anyone try the new Pennzoil Platinum with Pure Plus? It's apparently a GTL oil (natural gas based) replacement for regular Pennzoil Platinum. We know that PP is the usual alternative to Rotella T6 if you want 5w30 weight, so the hope is this new one is just as good as the old one.

It's also on for $26.99 at Napa for the month of May, so would be the time to stock up if it's good.

will be putting it in tomorrow...may be will send it for analysis to see. On another note cdn tire now carries penn ultra

[ChrisDuffy705]

Awesome thread .... I ran Mobil 1 in my civic .... returning the oil and buying a better brand.

[Fobio]

Updated info about T6:

Rotella T6 is ok for this year( still has a bit too much detergent due to Diesel Cj-4 rating ) They will reformulate T6 next year for new PC-11 Diesel rating.That will make the P04( Phosporus/zinc lower for the new emisions equipped diesels.

So stock up on T6 if thats your oil of choice.It is not going to meet
New JASO Motorcycle oil standards (MA1, MA2):

JASO effectively added the JASO-MA2 & JASO-MA1 specifications by splitting the existing JASO-MA spec into two groups by friction-performance (MA1 is the lower friction oils; MA2 the higher friction oils suitable for bikes).
The change came out as final/approved in 2006 in response to catalytic converters becoming widespread in bikes (EPA/EU requirements); it was also prompted in part by the car-lobby of the JASO organization wanting to specify a subset of the JASO-MA oils for use in their cars (the low friction oils, which become JASO-MA1). JASO-MA2 is just starting to show up in the US Market as a rating because this is the first year that catalytic converter-equipped bikes are widespread.

Aside from splitting the MA spec into two sub-groups, the new specs add a phosphorous content ceiling (better protect catalytic converters by using less, but phosphorous is also anti-wear additive, so it could be less start-up protection). JASO-MA2 being the heavier friction oils most suitable for motorcycle use will become the common standard for Japanese-built (and many Euro-built) motorcycles for the '08 and later model years.

Note that JASO-MA2 can now be API SJ formulated, but API SL & API SM formulations still directly contradict JASO-MA/MA1/MA2 standards because of the use of friction modifiers that are not wet-clutch compatible.

The JASO-MA (no suffix number) still remains in effect as well. For the Kats, API SF/SG + JASO-MA rated oils will remain the oils of choice until they are no longer available.

[loki]

So basically what you're saying is.....

@Fobio

[Mr Wilson]

To paraphrase Neil through Vince

Less anti-wear additives. Most have less anyways, so this brings T6 to be more of the norm. Still most likely will be the leader for it's resistance to fuel dilution.

[MaleJadeLy]

Any advice on specific oil for the bone chilling thunder bay winters?
or is Rotella still the god among oils

[Mr Wilson]

A 5W-30 (something like German Castrol) might help with cold starts. Won't compare to a block heater or heated garage though.

[mazdasport]

Any advice on specific oil for the bone chilling thunder bay winters?
or is Rotella still the god among oils

Get a block heater/battery warmer almost every parking spot up there has a plug in or access to one I work up there alot in the winter

[MaleJadeLy]

Get a block heater/battery warmer almost every parking spot up there has a plug in or access to one I work up there alot in the winter

A 5W-30 (something like German Castrol) might help with cold starts. Won't compare to a block heater or heated garage though.

Any suggestions on a specific one/where to find one for a decent price?

[Flagrum_3]

A 5W-30 (something like German Castrol) might help with cold starts. Won't compare to a block heater or heated garage though.

Block heaters are good if you can find places to plug them in. Problem is the deep cold also drains batteries. Purchasing a nice deep cycle battery will help immensely, (costly but worth it).

The German Castrol is 0W-30 and a true synthetic, pourpoint is good down to -45C...I've used it for years and never an issue starting, no matter what the temp.

_3