Random MS3 Chat Thread

[S.F.W.]

It'd be less damaging with higher compression?

Bigger turbo would not spool as often thus would not spray method as often.

It'd be less damaging with higher compression?

[SomeGuy]

Some people have had ringland damage from over use of meth on stock turbo, so be a little cautious.

Is it really the meth or just pushing a stock engine harder than they otherwise could without meth?

[shift8]

Bigger turbo would not spool as often thus would not spray method as often.

Ah guess that makes sense. Think someguy probably more right that of you're doing meth you're probably not feathering the peddle.

Probably less to do with turbo, but I don't know what I'm talking about

[trance|ghost]

Dropped in some Ford motor craft transmission fluid in my gen2 yesterday, took it for a test spin this morning

Grind seems to have gone away and shifter feels smoother !

The diff is def whirring/humming more at at high gears and lower speeds tho, might try the redline mtl next

[pwdunmore]

Some people have had ringland damage from over use of meth on stock turbo, so be a little cautious.

Some people have had ring damage without running meth so this point is not relevant.

Meth does wash the wall of the piston but so does the gasoline, having realistic power goals and the right sized meth nozzle should mitigate this.

[lazypandaa]

hi everyone, does anyone know or recommend a shop that will do walnut blasting ?

Thanks

[S.F.W.]

hi everyone, does anyone know or recommend a shop that will do walnut blasting ?

Thanks

Nor certain but worth calling quy's coating.

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[shift8]

Some people have had ring damage without running meth so this point is not relevant.

Meth does wash the wall of the piston but so does the gasoline, having realistic power goals and the right sized meth nozzle should mitigate this.

It seems reading through the forums that if you have a gen 1 MS3 with any significant kilometer value (let's say 135k+) you're in the minority if you don't have ring damage.

Almost seems like you have to factor in an engine rebuild for long term ownership.

Reading seems to suggest cyl 3 biggest culprit for rings cracking due to heat build up. What I haven't been able to find is a cause for this, and what the solution is.

Is it piston design? Intake manifold design? If so, are there modifications you can do to make the engine more reliable? I'm less interested in overall HP gains. I'd prefer a 285whp car I could mostly kick the shit out of periodically, and use as a short drive daily.

Is that even a practical request for this platform? I'd be prone to doing the rebuild to stock + whatever mods required to keep things reliable.

Or maybe I should part out and just find a different platform Love the sleeper look of a gen1 MS3 tho...

[loki]

I've had mine for 6 years with a big turbo pushing around 370whp for 5 years

Haven't checked compression, probably won't ever. Car pulls like a beast and drives great


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[loki]

Only real problem I've ever had is boost leaks


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[Husam_93]

Guys, I just wanted to get your opinion on which tune I should go with. Do you prefer e-tune by Freektune or dyno tune by Mspeed? any feedback is appreciated!

[S.F.W.]

Guys, I just wanted to get your opinion on which tune I should go with. Do you prefer e-tune by Freektune or dyno tune by Mspeed? any feedback is appreciated!

Mspeed dyno. Why risk trying 4th gear pulls on public roads?

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[Husam_93]

Mspeed dyno. Why risk trying 4th gear pulls on public roads?

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My main concern is the tuning process and the time it takes. I'm hoping a dyno tune would give me the same results if not better


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[loki]

Dyno tune is consistent tuning.

Do pull, make adjustments...repeat until tune is complete

Street tune. Take some logs...send them in...wait for tune to come back...take more logs to see how the tune does..send in results..wait...get tune back..take more logs

All that relies on your availability to go out and log. Each time the conditions outside are changing. Each time you're logging you're at risk of being charged with stunt driving


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[Husam_93]

Dyno tune is consistent tuning.

Do pull, make adjustments...repeat until tune is complete

Street tune. Take some logs...send them in...wait for tune to come back...take more logs to see how the tune does..send in results..wait...get tune back..take more logs

All that relies on your availability to go out and log. Each time the conditions outside are changing. Each time you're logging you're at risk of being charged with stunt driving


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Thank you, this was really useful info!. This is why i prefer doing it locally vs doing an etune. What's the best way to contact Mspeed?

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[S.F.W.]

Thank you, this was really useful info!. This is why i prefer doing it locally vs doing an etune. What's the best way to contact Mspeed?

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Pm fobio

[Husam_93]

Pm fobio

Thank you!

[fywdyl]

Just got back from my 3 month Asia trip and I have to renew my plate stickers. Need to do an e-test and got 2 "Not Ready": O2 sensor and EVAP. Tried to do the whole drive cycle thing last night and this morn, and still showing "Not Ready". Perhaps the weather is not cooperating. Any other ideas/suggestions I should try?

P.S. It is almost impossible to find a stretch of road to drive at 65-79 km/h on for 5 min straight, even around where I live.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Just got back from my 3 month Asia trip and I have to renew my plate stickers. Need to do an e-test and got 2 "Not Ready": O2 sensor and EVAP. Tried to do the whole drive cycle thing last night and this morn, and still showing "Not Ready". Perhaps the weather is not cooperating. Any other ideas/suggestions I should try?

P.S. It is almost impossible to find a stretch of road to drive at 65-79 km/h on for 5 min straight, even around where I live.

404 up to Keswick at night?

Do the drive cycle for the O2 sensor, that appears to be the only one that is not weather dependent (the EVAP one is)... or just drive it around for a couple more days.

If the O2 sensor is still Not Ready, it may need changing.

When was the last time the ECU was reset/codes were cleared? (battery discharge; map flash; etc). If it's been a while, the Readiness tests should have already been completed and the Not Ready may not change.

Drive mode emissions tests.pdf

[fywdyl]

404 up to Keswick at night?

Do the drive cycle for the O2 sensor, that appears to be the only one that is not weather dependent (the EVAP one is)... or just drive it around for a couple more days.

If the O2 sensor is still Not Ready, it may need changing.

When was the last time the ECU was reset/codes were cleared? (battery discharge; map flash; etc). If it's been a while, the Readiness tests should have already been completed and the Not Ready may not change.

Drive mode emissions tests.pdf

Thanks MBNTO. I'll try the O2 sensor drive cycle again.

I had to change my batt back in Nov, then I went away on a trip for a while and the car sat for a bit.

Any idea how much it costs/amt of work to change the O2 sensor?

[shift8]

Thanks MBNTO. I'll try the O2 sensor drive cycle again.

I had to change my batt back in Nov, then I went away on a trip for a while and the car sat for a bit.

Any idea how much it costs/amt of work to change the O2 sensor?

Super easy. Did mine in an hour. Two main issues:

* Lots of PB Blaster ahead of time on the sensor. Pull it off with a wrench and deep socket. I bought the O2 sensor socket from crappy tire.

* the clip for the wire is under the car and in a super PITA spot. If you have large hands gonna be even more of a pain.

Got my O2 replacement from Rock Auto. Came quickly, and been working well over two years.



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[SomeGuy]

Super easy. Did mine in an hour. Two main issues:

* Lots of PB Blaster ahead of time on the sensor. Pull it off with a wrench and deep socket. I bought the O2 sensor socket from crappy tire.

* the clip for the wire is under the car and in a super PITA spot. If you have large hands gonna be even more of a pain.

Got my O2 replacement from Rock Auto. Came quickly, and been working well over two years.



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Yup, rock auto replacements do the job...one of them is the OEM sensor IIRC. The sensors from the dealer aren't cheap, $250ish if I remember right.

There are two o2 sensors, a primary that you can get up in the engine bay on the top of the downpipe and a secondary down past the cat. Usually the secondary goes first but check codes before changing. Usually you'll get a CEL if the o2 won't go away. Penetrating fluid can help but a torch and some heat are more effective. At very least do it while the car is hot with some good heat resistant gloves on (ie leather, mechanix gloves melt). You could also try cleaning the sensor by soaking it in some gasoline and get away without changing it for a while.

[shift8]

Yup, rock auto replacements do the job...one of them is the OEM sensor IIRC. The sensors from the dealer aren't cheap, $250ish if I remember right.

There are two o2 sensors, a primary that you can get up in the engine bay on the top of the downpipe and a secondary down past the cat. Usually the secondary goes first but check codes before changing. Usually you'll get a CEL if the o2 won't go away. Penetrating fluid can help but a torch and some heat are more effective. At very least do it while the car is hot with some good heat resistant gloves on (ie leather, mechanix gloves melt). You could also try cleaning the sensor by soaking it in some gasoline and get away without changing it for a while.

In my case it was the primary on top. P0038 or something I think.

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[fywdyl]

Thanks for the replies. No codes that I know of, I'll try the drive cycle again tonight and go from there.

[shift8]

Thanks for the replies. No codes that I know of, I'll try the drive cycle again tonight and go from there.

Anything pending? Get a cheap ODBII dongle and install Torque (or other ODB readers). Totally worth it.