Help. Broken shock mount. Dealership wants me to change whole shock absorber system.

[smallv]

[IMG]www.l3prime.com\images\IMGA0238.JPG[/IMG]

Here is a picture of the deformed fender washers clamping the aluminum shock mount into place. The picture understates how solid the mounting is. The tabs on the shock mount break off very close to the studs. What is left behind is a half inch of aluminum surface that is pinned between the deformed washer and the frame of the car. You know it occurs to me that since most of these shock mounts are probably going to break on a 8 to 10 year old Mazda that it might not be a bad idea to add a stainless steel or aluminum washer on to the top surface of one that has not broken yet. Adding a steel washer is going to weaken the mount over time because aluminum and steel react. Just a thought… If the failure of the part is inevitable, why not do something preventative.

[TheMAN]

pic didn't work

[smallv]

http://www.l3prime.com/images/IMGA0238.JPG



The image is there, I tested it. Just copy and paste into your browser address.

[TheMAN]

so essentially, what you did was use fender washers to force everything back in place?

[stevenma188]

Doesn't seem exactly safe.......

[peterm15]

Doesn't seem exactly safe.......

+1.
Not something I would do.

[stevenma188]

Step 3:
Using a 13 Millimeter deep socket, remove the two nuts from the two long vertical studs. The broken tabs will probably fall to the ground. If not, pry them loose with a screw driver or use the pry portion of your tire iron.

Also, FYI, it's a 12mm nut. You will strip it if you use a 13.

[smallv]

Doesn't seem exactly safe.......

I agree the picture does not convey safety and confidence. So, your comments about safety is completely understandable. However…

1) The original part has aluminum tabs that could be snapped off with a thumb and forefinger, particularly after a few years of bimetallic corrosion and exposure to salt. The fact that Mazda bolts thin aluminum to steel with no stainless steel washers or rubber grommets -- at one of the saltiest and wettest points in the car is a little irresponsible--I think.
2) The broken tabs were so deteriorated that I was able to crumble them like soup crackers. So what's safer, driving a 9 year old Mazda with two shock mounts that are ready to blow at any moment or driving with those same mounts viced into place with washers that are much stronger than the original aluminum tabs.
3) There is very little strength engineered into the aluminum tabs, likely because they don't bear any suspension load. They are just there to prevent the shock mount from slipping from side to side. The suspension load is directed vertically into the frame of the car.
4) I did describe this as a temporary repair that felt much more secure than the original part. At the point I helped my friend out, he was driving around with a free floating shock mount—unable to afford the dealership propose repair. Now he can drive the car safely while he orders the $16 part.
5) Really, this is a pretty useful field repair. Things don't always break when you are right next to a garage or during business hours.
6) I think it’s useful for Mazda owners to understand how these shock mounts degrade. Adding stainless steel washers earlier in the car’s life could greatly extend the part life. Preventative replacement of the part at year six or seven might be a worth while $32 insurance policy against an unexpected, costly and potentially dangerous part failure.

[TheMAN]

or you can replace the shock mounts with aftermarket ones...
Moog sells them under part number K160229 and Dorman sells it under part number 924412... it's also a good idea to replace the shock mount to shock mounting nut, which you order from mazda under part number CEY0-28-661... if the bump stop is gone, then you can try to make do with the Mazda5 one under part number CEY0-28-1A1... there's no rear bump stop available from the 3

[smallv]

so essentially, what you did was use fender washers to force everything back in place?

Well, that's a reasonable description of what I did except that no force was required to move the part into position. The shock mount hovers right where it is suppose to be even when nothing is holding it there.

I used the weight of the car to bind the top surface of the shock mount to the underside of the car. That binding prevented the shock mount from moving while the nuts tightened and deformed the fender washers.

Without using the weight of the car to prevent movement, the part would have just slid out of the way when the nuts were tightened. The broken tabs also needed to be removed to allow proper mating of the shock mount with undercarriage. So while the steps I outlined may have seemed overly detailed, they were actually significant to the outcome.

The size of the fender washer is also significant. The strength of this field repair depends on engaging the cylindrical surface of the shock mount like a vice grips a pipe. That requires a very large washer. A regular washer would only reach the remnants of the broken tabs. Those remnants are so thin and degraded that tightening a washer down would just pulverize the aluminum.

[stevenma188]

You do realize that the reaction of the compression of the spring will be exerted on the shock mount right? Just because it sits there when the car is jacked up doesn't mean that it's not subjected to force while driving.

[yanky.ng]

Hi guys,
i need that mount too. rockauto estimate shipping is NOV-20. Where can i get that part in the GTA.
Thanks.

[TheMAN]

parts source?

[Hyperion]

Hi guys,
i need that mount too. rockauto estimate shipping is NOV-20. Where can i get that part in the GTA.
Thanks.

Rock auto often has multiple brands you can buy, each ship out of different locations. Keep on trying different ones until you get one that will be here pretty much next day. I had 2 headlights shipped to me next day for $12.

[Canadianbacon]

.

[brucewayne]

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-pa...ationFlag=true

[theo575]

Dealing with this same issue, but I've decided to just bite the bullet and replace my old shocks and struts and all the mounts. Might be overkill but I don't want to be dealing with shocks and struts again. What do you guys think?

[all]

on my mazda 5 i removed broken shock then removed the top shock nut. i then made a plate cut to match shock mount and drilled holes for the two studs and the shock top as well. plate was 1/8 stiff steel. as plate is bolted to shock by the top nut and spans the small opening between the studs,there is ample support for the shock and will not break again. that said i just found car with two mounts available so i will get them but still use the steel plates as well.

[all]

failed to mention that when i bolted steel plate to shock, the mount remains on as well. there is a rubber bushing in the mount which will give a little so nut tightens securely. also with the mount tabs gone there is no more steel/aluminum deterioration and the rubber bushing in top will also separate the two metals.

[brucewayne]

Dealing with this same issue, but I've decided to just bite the bullet and replace my old shocks and struts and all the mounts. Might be overkill but I don't want to be dealing with shocks and struts again. What do you guys think?

i did the same about a month ago. i wished i had replaced the springs on the struts... i guess ill go over them again in the summer as well as the rears

my shock mounts on my 05 were fine. shock mount was sprayed with rust stuff/undercoating and the shock mount was fine but i replaced all of them anyways since i was at 157k and everything was old. spraying stuff is good