loki's logs

[loki]

weather here in London is insane. 30 degrees in October...are you friggin' killing me?

quick check in for some feedback.

what are your thoughts on running catless downpipe? I know Cobb requires cat for Stage 2 but you can always start with a stage 1 map and work up to optimize the catless downpipe.

downsides:

- would require more tuning rather than starting with a Cobb OTS stage 2 map
- would smell like a lawnmower and will not pass ommisions (although have down ommisions for this year already so from this November I won't have to re-test for 2 years)
- it'll be pretty damn loud when combined with the Magnaflow CBE

so how bad will the car smell really, if it's not gonna be insane then at least I have 2 years of no testing to try and get away with it, but I don't want to be paranoid about being pulled (fast_dude not a F@cking word...) over based purely on how the car smells. for example driving through a ride progam: Officer "sir have you had anything to drink ton....what the **** is that smell? Sir step out your car..."

I need some opinions on what I'm going to do. Right now my wife wants to burn this downpipe, burn my speed3, and burn Nextmod....

[Fack_Dude]

weather here in London is insane. 30 degrees in October...are you friggin' killing me?

quick check in for some feedback.

what are your thoughts on running catless downpipe? I know Cobb requires cat for Stage 2 but you can always start with a stage 1 map and work up to optimize the catless downpipe.

downsides:

- would require more tuning rather than starting with a Cobb OTS stage 2 map
- would smell like a lawnmower and will not pass ommisions (although have down ommisions for this year already so from this November I won't have to re-test for 2 years)
- it'll be pretty damn loud when combined with the Magnaflow CBE

so how bad will the car smell really, if it's not gonna be insane then at least I have 2 years of no testing to try and get away with it, but I don't want to be paranoid about being pulled (fast_dude not a F@cking word...) over based purely on how the car smells. for example driving through a ride progam: Officer "sir have you had anything to drink ton....what the **** is that smell? Sir step out your car..."

I need some opinions on what I'm going to do. Right now my wife wants to burn this downpipe, burn my speed3, and burn Nextmod....

Can't you send the facccking pipe back??? If you run it.....the car will smell like rotten eggs.....my two cents worth......

[boyracer]

so how bad will the car smell really, if it's not gonna be insane then at least I have 2 years of no testing to try and get away with it, but I don't want to be paranoid about being pulled (fast_dude not a F@cking word...) over based purely on how the car smells. for example driving through a ride progam: Officer "sir have you had anything to drink ton....what the **** is that smell? Sir step out your car..."

I need some opinions on what I'm going to do. Right now my wife wants to burn this downpipe, burn my speed3, and burn Nextmod....

Loki, that's some funny shite.... I can see fast_dude struggling with his response.

[Booostin]

Can't you send the facccking pipe back??? If you run it.....the car will smell like rotten eggs.....my two cents worth......

Yeah cant you send it back? When the 2 years passes and you have to do emissions its going to be a bitch pulling the pipe out again and installing a catted pipe. Another thing... not to be a turd but didnt you notice that when you bought the downpipe you were paying about half the amount of a catted downpipe? lol

[loki]

Yeah cant you send it back? When the 2 years passes and you have to do emissions its going to be a bitch pulling the pipe out again and installing a catted pipe. Another thing... not to be a turd but didnt you notice that when you bought the downpipe you were paying about half the amount of a catted downpipe? lol

It's not half. It turns out to be around $125 - $150 more for the catted version.

Cp-e wasn't really clear on which one they were displaying the price for, and I didn't place the order so I did not see the part where it asks about cat options. Even one of the other sponsors didn't know which version they're selling on their site until they checked.

So yeh I screwed up by not taking the time to look into it further, however, at some point placing the order it would have to be determined which version you want, catted or catless. Catless clearly states "off-road use only" so I would say why default to that option, but regardless, why not just go back to the customer and just ask?

[Booostin]

It's not half. It turns out to be around $125 - $150 more for the catted version.

Cp-e wasn't really clear on which one they were displaying the price for, and I didn't place the order so I did not see the part where it asks about cat options. Even one of the other sponsors didn't know which version they're selling on their site until they checked.

So yeh I screwed up by not taking the time to look into it further, however, at some point placing the order it would have to be determined which version you want, catted or catless. Catless clearly states "off-road use only" so I would say why default to that option, but regardless, why not just go back to the customer and just ask?

Shitty... are you going to run it then or not?

[BlueStreak]

Buy a cat and have a shop weld it in.

[loki]

Buy a cat and have a shop weld it in.

That's what I was thinking. I figure the shop that did the welding for you could do it. Question is where can I get an almost identical cat that cp-e uses? Although theirs might be generic. They do all kinda look the same.

[BlueStreak]

CPe's cat isn't proprietary or downpipe specific. It just has to be the proper dimensions. Once you get the proper size, you're off to the races.

[loki]

CPe's cat isn't proprietary or downpipe specific. It just has to be the proper dimensions. Once you get the proper size, you're off to the races.

good to hear a bit of positive news. now I just need to source one.

ps. that L2AIC is looking quite sexy

[Fack_Dude]

good to hear a bit of positive news. now I just need to source one.

ps. that L2AIC is looking quite sexy

Try quick muffler or hotrod scotts.

[loki]

Try quick muffler or hotrod scotts.

will look into that when I get back. thanks

[BlueStreak]

:-)


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[loki]

loaded OTS Stage 1 + SF map with MAF calibration only. Gonna take some logs shortly and see if there's still knock at the upper end even tho the OTS map is pig rich.

will post logs when I get back.

[Fack_Dude]

Be safe.

[rzapata]

loaded OTS Stage 1 + SF map with MAF calibration only. Gonna take some logs shortly and see if there's still knock at the upper end even tho the OTS map is pig rich.

will post logs when I get back.

Can't wait to see the results. I hope the knocks are gone, good luck!

[loki]

Can't wait to see the results. I hope the knocks are gone, good luck!

actually, funny enough I'm hoping the knock is still there because it would most likely mean that it's not real knock but just engine noise.

[boyracer]

Be safe.

+1, & good luck

[loki]

Fellas,

Did 3 3rd gear logs and one short 4th gear log.

The knock was still there at the high rpms except for the 2nd log for some reason where it was almost non-existent.

3rd Gear - 1 - 11Oct13 - V200 - stage1+sf(91) - MAF cal only.xlsx

3rd Gear - 2 - 11Oct13 - V200 - stage1+sf(91) - MAF cal only.xlsx

3rd Gear - 3 - 11Oct13 - V200 - stage1+sf(91) - MAF cal only.xlsx

4th Gear - 1 - 11Oct13 - V200 - stage1+sf(91) - MAF cal only.xlsx

on a side note, I have to redo my maf calibration because it is now way off.

edit: again, reminder that everything was left stock except for changing the knock sensor limit to 6750 rpms.

[Fobio]

Cool.

Your 4th gear log almost made it into the 6000+rpm to see. I assume traction control is off and it wasn't raining where you were like it is now?

It could be engine noise. But if say you go and turn off the knock sensor up top, it makes tuning up in that rpm range problematic. However, since you don't venture into that rpm range often, it becomes a case of compromise. Regardless, I'd hope that you can nail down the cause before moving forward.

So what I can conclude now is that:

1. Your high rpm knock is NOT likely caused by high boost and the resulting higher BAT's etc.

2. You're NOT knocking due to aggressive timing.

3. The knock is consistent in a particular rpm range that causes all sorts of ruckus under the engine bay.

You may want to diagnose this furtehr by examining the knock sensor to see if it's loose...along with your coil packs. I also saw a car's VVT sensor being hand-loose on the passenger side of the valve cover.

Tho unlikely, you may also have faulty injector seals.

[loki]

Thanks for the feedback. Here are my comments/questions.

Cool.

Your 4th gear log almost made it into the 6000+rpm to see. (Ahhh I should have pushed it a bit longer...) I assume traction control is off and it wasn't raining where you were like it is now? (Traction control was off and the roads were bone dry)

It could be engine noise. But if say you go and turn off the knock sensor up top, it makes tuning up in that rpm range problematic.(Agreed) However, since you don't venture into that rpm range often, it becomes a case of compromise. Regardless, I'd hope that you can nail down the cause before moving forward.

So what I can conclude now is that:

1. Your high rpm knock is NOT likely caused by high boost and the resulting higher BAT's etc.

2. You're NOT knocking due to aggressive timing.

3. The knock is consistent in a particular rpm range that causes all sorts of ruckus under the engine bay. (it gets real nuts around 6100 rpms, but I don't hear anything from the engine)

You may want to diagnose this furtehr by examining the knock sensor to see if it's loose...along with your coil packs. I also saw a car's VVT sensor being hand loose on the passenger side of the valve cover. (where are all these located so I can check it out?)

Tho unlikely, you may also have faulty injector seals.

[Fobio]

The coil packs are the black placticky things connected to the spark plugs....under your TMIC...the VVT sensor is a round metallic piece with a small black wire bundle juct in front of the oil cap.

The knock sensor is somewhere in the back of the engine, I believe. Dave will know better.

What kind of mounts are you running?

[loki]

for sure Dave would know. He would have taken all that stuff apart at some point (and has to figure out how to put it all back together...)

The coil packs should be fine, since Dave did a compression test for me and removed and reinstated the spark plugs etc.

I'll have a look at the VVT sensor if I can find it, and I'll ask Dave to point me in the right direction to look for the knock sensor.

I'm running the RMM only, it's the cp-e 75 duro (you ordered it for me )

[BlueStreak]

Did somebody say my name?

The knock sensor is bolted to the block, below the injectors in between cylinders 2 and 3. See awesome freehand drawing.

Unfortunately, to get to it, you'll have to remove your intake manifold. If you're quick, that'll take you about an hour to do. If it's your first time, I'd at least double the time estimate.

Vince may be onto something. You could try stretching the coils inside the coil packs. It could be a bad contact between the spark plug and the wire itself.

[loki]

Thanks for the photo BlueStreak.

I'll have a look, but don't know if I'd try taking off the intake manifold..I'll try looking at the other stuff which means taking off the TMIC. I wish I had a nice warm garage to do this work in, that's what you get for living downtown right?! haha


Had to drive all the way to Stratford yesterday so filled up with a 3/4 tank of 94 octane to do some logs and see if that helped with the knock (which I'm hoping it doesn't) but as soon as I put the gas in, it rained for the next 10 hours.....so no logs.....and no more gas....