Since my harness is out, I'm just going to solder it in, throw some shrink wrap tubing over the joints and call it a day. I've come to a point where stocking out won't be an option if I sell the car (don't want to, really) so might as well.
I'm sure you could solder yours in and make it look clean if you wanted. It would just be a little tricky getting at the MAP sensor from within the engine bay. Come to think of it, you could pull out the harness far enough to solder it from a more convenient location without unplugging too many connectors from the engine.
EDIT: I'll post a picture of the harness showing the location of the MAP sensor connector relative to the rest when I get some free time.
Alright, here's the location of the MAP sensor connector in relation to the primary harness. (see red boxes)
With the IM off, all you have to do is unplug the crank position sensor, alternator, power steering and VVT connector and you should be able to get the MAP sensor connector up high enough that you can work with it.
*MINOR UPDATE*
Some parts have slowly started trickling in. This is a Bosch 3BAR MAP sensor.
Replacing the stock 2.5BAR MAP sensor with this new unit will allow the ECU to "see" boost up to 30PSI (as opposed to ~22-23PSI). As a result, it allows me to turn up the boost but more importantly, utilize some of the safety features built into the ECU like boost cut and load cut.
Once the connector for the new sensor comes in, I'll be splicing it onto the harness. Shouldn't be too difficult since the harness isn't in the car.
Stefan at Eagle Motorsport is still waiting on all the engine internals to come in so he can ship them out. Hopefully I won't have to wait too long.
*drooool*
Now you just need to come done to Montreal and help me lol!
Haha. It's a little far.
I definitely would've lent a hand if you were still local.
Engine teardown starts tomorrow. Photos of carnage will follow as soon as they're available.
So I didn't get a call from Competition Automotive to come inspect the engine. I can only assume they didn't get around to it. Anyways...
*drumroll*
- No that isn't the engine from my Speed.
- Yes it is a Speed engine.
- Yes it is mine.
- Yes its getting forged.
- Yes it'll be an exact replica of mine.
- Yes it'll be up for sale for a fair price once its built.
Cheers,
Dave
So you have 2 speed engines? lol
Definitely can't wait to see the end result and the numbers this thing pulls.
2008.5 Mazda 3
My Car Build
I'm thinking of starting a collection and will run one depending on: desired power, boost, time of day, weather, what kind of underwear I chose (thong = engine with pink valve cover) and how many times I sneezed that morning.
So, to clarify, you're doing 2 identically built engines - all componentry being the same between them?
Did you score some kind of wicked deal on parts or do you just know that Fobio will want one
2006 Winning Blue MZ3 Sport GT - Scrapped
Correct. Both with be exactly the same; save for mine having a red anodized MazdaSpeed oil cap on the valve cover and the second one having the black plastic one.
There's a bit of a volume discount from approaching an engine builder and saying "I'll take two of everything, please."
Typically the discont for buying '2 of everything' is negligible at best, from my experience and that of others I know. Besides, the labour is just double what one engine would cost...maybe a slight discount. Maybe you were just paying super marked up prices Haha...either way, just keep one engine as a spare.
Actually, I think it would be better to spend the money getting your head done up too. How sweet would it be to be able to rev to 10k reliably all day long? Throw on a GT35R and you would have a RIDICULOUS beast.
Ssshhhh... Don't go stealing my thunder.
Aside from that, there's no way we could rev this engine to 10K RPM because the engine is direct injected. We would need secondary fueling to make it happen. On top of that, this is a long stroke motor so it produces alot of torque and generally doesn't rev very high.
Any chance of you taking one engine to the absolute tuning limits??? Go up to 600 horses (if it's even possible)..
I definitely won't be doing it.
There is a huge expense involved prepping a setup to hit 600hp beyond a forged engine and a bigger turbo. The engine(s) I'm building would be able to support that, though.
So I swung by the shop to have a look at my motor all dismantled and was taken to the back where the magic happens. Overall, the guy that took it apart said that the motor was quite clean and in very good shape.
First off, we stopped by the head. It was completely taken apart. Everything looked normal. No pictures yet.
Then, we went over to the pistons and conrods.
His words. "I was hot tanking the motor and everything looked fine; couldn't see anything wrong with it. Then we noticed this..."
Do you see it?
How about now?
Yessir, a 2" chunk of the ring land in cylinder 3 cracked right off. It was held in between the rings the entire time. At this point, I thought "OH shit! My bore is fooked!" But no, it was perfectly fine. Thank the car gods...
So, a back track now. If you look at my injector seals, cylinder 3 is perfectly clean (with additional loss of compression which was due to the cracked ring land). I installed the seals back in March 2011 and have put the car through its paces including WOT runs, multiple tuning runs with the K04 and the GT3071, autocross and time attack. I can almost bet a limb that this issue was festering before that and really became evident once the big turbo went in. Like I said before, the engine idled perfectly and drove around town without a hitch. It was only until recently that the engine started misfiring with the big turbo under WOT.
I am damn glad that piston held up for so long (however long that was - maybe it was a progressive failure). It could've really done some damage and I could've been shopping around for a new block. I am keeping that piston as a memento at my office.
Competition Automotive will be taking photographs of everything and documenting bore size, rings etc. More info to come on the torn down motor!
Dave
EDIT: I will also be putting up the rest of the piston/rod combos for sale at $40 a pop as some cool paper weights. Stay tuned.
Last edited by BlueStreak; 09-14-2011 at 09:02 PM.
Actually...there's really not. Built motor + a bigger turbo is 75% of the way there. All you really need after that is the fuel system capable and perhaps upgraded cooling (FMIC), both of which I believe you have already. You also already have the upgraded exhaust, etc. so it's not an issue.
Hitting 600HP really isn't all that hard, at least not with any engine worth spending money on
You did get pretty lucky with the ringland...put that on a necklace or hang it somewhere =P
Let's crunch some numbers.
In the world of turbos, the GT3071R is medium-big sized. In the world of big turbos, mine barely makes the cut. So, a legitimate big turbo will be needed. Expect to pay $1200-1500 on that alone.
Then, you'll need a manifold with a T3 or T4 flange and preferably twin scroll so you can have the turbo spooling before you fall asleep. $1k
Add to that, twin wastegates and dump tubes. $1k
Because the turbo is so large, I would recommend a 4" downpipe and exhaust. $1.5k
Next, let's look at the head. Stock, ours flows like crap. Between labour, off the shelf parts and custom pieces, you're looking at $2k+ before cams.
Most aftemarket companies won't even touch our cams because of the direct injection lobe on the intake cam. Nonetheless, one offs have been made here and there. $750+
To get the proper airflow out of a turbo to push 600whp, you'll need to raise the redline considerably as we only have a 2.3L engine. This has implications for fueling as the injection window decreases as revs increase. You'll need larger or at least ported injectors. Larger ones haven't been found for our platform and only a few will port a direct injection injector. $$$
Now we're in bleeding edge territory... $$$$$$$
Assuming you could source a reliable larger or ported injector, you'll need a pressure relief valve that supports ~2300psi. Custom ones have been made but have failed recently. $$$
Even so, you would need to run a port injection system with an extra fuel rail, injectors, pump, controller etc. to provide the additional fuel necessary to reach the target goal. $$$
FMIC shouldn't be too expensive but expect to pay 1k for a core and pipe setup made by you that can support the additional airflow for 600hp. It has to be very large with at least 3" piping.
Then there's the clutch. None exists for our platform for that much power. $$$
And finally, replacing all the stuff that will inevitably break as a result of pushing other stock parts way past their limits. $$$ I know a guy with a 2g DSM who split his transmission case open at 500awhp despite the car having a reputation for making big power. Stuff breaks.
This is in addition to all the parts already on the car.
Definitely not 75% of the way there.
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Last edited by BlueStreak; 09-15-2011 at 08:29 AM.