what do you guys think of this?
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...Category_Code=
The accessport will void warranty...but if you uninstall and don't get caught with it by the dealer, then you can usually get away with it.
Most dealers don't mind intakes, but obviously you lose coverage on the MAF sensor. Go with SRI if you want less worry and easier maintenance.
Rear motor mount is definitely a requirement, dealers don't care because it's improvement over stock by a long shot.
At a minimum, an intake and RMM are basically "required" mods for the speed 3...along with the accessport if you're careful. Those 3 items for around $1000 are the best upgrades in terms of driveability.
- 2021 Porsche Macan GTS -
- 2016 Lexus NX200t F Sport -
- 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Black Mica - SOLD -
as much as I love the sound of a BOV, its not worth putting it on the car, it run so rich and drives like shit (in my experience) once you get a SRI on it, you'll start to hear a bit of what sounds like a BOV...my friends can hear it when I leave...
lets get real...thats the only time you need to hear it...every other time its you and the car
thats a reciruclating valve, so it could work on our car without causing problems with the maf, but it has no flange, you would need to weld one on
a bov vents all the pressurized air into the atmosphere (your engine bay). The problem with that and MAF cars is that the air that initially ran across the MAF and was accounted for and then compressed by the turbo needs to be contained in the intake tract, reciruclated back in, so that there isnt a loss of counter air. Thats what causes the ECU to panic, when there is less air than originally accounted for by the MAF
Oh damn, that sucks. Oh well, I stopped reading the Speed section because according to certain people only speed owners are allowed to even look at that section.
I have a question about the catch can. Does the fluid in the can get hard to drain in the winter? What I am asking is ok in the summer it just comes out. But if you drive a lot in the winter will lt gunk up and potentially clog up and cause some serious issues?
any recommendations on rmm, i was looking at the cp e ( http://www.cp-e.com/products/mazda3/...e-engine-mount ), and should i be changing the other engine mount while im at it?
from what I understand the RMM is the most important to change because it takes the biggest beating. I know many members have only the RMM and they are fine without the others. Also, make sure to look into the group buy for cp-e you can save your self a few bucks by buying from there.
Definitely change the RMM before you do anything. Get CP-e there's a GB going on right now
2007 Mazdaspeed3
drive slow homie...
thanks, is there any way i should break in the speed3?
Just remember that 1) different dealers are different. 2) Different service advisers are different and 3) What's ok can change depending on a lot of factors such as how well Mazda's doing in any particular quarter. If they are hurting you can bet there would be more pressure to deny claims.
Personally I haven't found the need to get any engine mounts modded after I got used to the car. As my friend from ILR car control says you shouldn't think shifting fast means driving fast. Shifts should take the time it takes even if you are racing on the track. Otherwise you are just giving your drive train a helping of mechanical shock plus you'll unbalance the car.
Anyhow the point is for ME I found that if I shift rightI don't need anything other than the stock engine mount.
Uh, have you ever even driven a MS3 with a RMM? It's more than just shifting that it helps, which it does...not to make it faster, but smoother and les mechanical shock...it also helps minimize wheel hop which lets you put power down when accelerating and helps with throttle response as there is less time that the drivetrain slack is taken up (ie engine shifting on acceleration). Frankly it just makes the car much more driveable and enjoyable and has almost no downside.