2004 Mazda 3 GT Reviews Please

[5am33r]

Hey all, I just joined TM3 and this is my first post so bear with me.

I am planning on buying a 2004 Mazda 3 GT which I am going to check out this saturday. Can you give me any tips as to what should i look for while I am examining the car. This car has 124k km and is going for $6900.

I have another one that I saw yesterday but its not the GT version. This one has 134k km on it and is going for $6400. Good condition, clean inside and out. Tiny bit of rust on the rear right fender.

Both cars are automatic transmission and are being sold by a dealer. Any reviews about 2004 Mazda 3 will be really helpful.

Also which one do you think should be a better deal?
Thanks.

[Mazdy]

All i can say is...stay away from Rust! So pick a car the one without or less Rust

[Impressive]

All i can say is...stay away from Rust! So pick a car the one without or less Rust

+1.

I drive a 2006, but my father has a 2004 model and I would say avoid the rust, check wheel bearings and the engine & just give them a thorough inspection prior to purchase.

Good luck.

[sol_searchin]

I've owned a ton of these so here you go

- RUST (Quarter panels/window pillars/Hatch (around the spoiler area)/front fender lips/Hood (under side lip of the hood)/ bottom of doors/side sill area)
- Wheel bearings (very common and 2004's are EXPENSIVE your looking at 300+ a side)
- Engine mounts
- PJB failure (rare but happens)
- Intake manifold solenoid ( engine will make a ticking sound - hard to differentiate from valvetrain tick)
- Cruise control surge (I've seen many with this problem, most people don't know it because they don't use cruise lol)
- Brakes wear fairly quick

Other wise do a thorough inspection at that mileage you'll want to inspect the suspension/brakes/tires/ change a bunch of fluids (tranny/coolant) etc

I would also try to get those cars all under 6000 there not worth any more than that... Private sales might be a better deal expecially if you find one with 1 owner or with maintainance history. I would also stay away from rust unless you put away another 1000$ for proper repair.

[boyracer]

I do believe that sol_searchin covered it all, though I would like to add "Welcome to TM3"

[Shaiznam]

I second sol_searching suggestions. The rust is the big factor so look thoroughly between the sills and specially at the hood area.

Definitely check the wheel bearings & the shocks. I would say that go for a private buy if you can, because then you would have the money margin to replace brakes or shocks or any work that needs to be done.

Welcome to TM3 and best of luck shopping!!

[5am33r]

I've owned a ton of these so here you go

- RUST (Quarter panels/window pillars/Hatch (around the spoiler area)/front fender lips/Hood (under side lip of the hood)/ bottom of doors/side sill area)
- Wheel bearings (very common and 2004's are EXPENSIVE your looking at 300+ a side)
- Engine mounts
- PJB failure (rare but happens)
- Intake manifold solenoid ( engine will make a ticking sound - hard to differentiate from valvetrain tick)
- Cruise control surge (I've seen many with this problem, most people don't know it because they don't use cruise lol)
- Brakes wear fairly quick

Other wise do a thorough inspection at that mileage you'll want to inspect the suspension/brakes/tires/ change a bunch of fluids (tranny/coolant) etc

I would also try to get those cars all under 6000 there not worth any more than that... Private sales might be a better deal expecially if you find one with 1 owner or with maintainance history. I would also stay away from rust unless you put away another 1000$ for proper repair.

Hey,

Firstly, thanks for the tips, Ill make sure to pay extra attention to those when I go check the car out this weekend.
Secondly, how can I check that PJB is working fine?

Also since you've owned couple of these, how are the cars? are they reliable? Hows the gas mileage?

I tried looking for a private owner but they all have high mileages. The ones I mentioned luckily are the cheapest with that kind of mileage.

[RedRaptor]

I've owned my Mazda3 Sport GT since Sept 3rd, 2004. It currently has 195,000km on it right now.

Pros:
Engine is still strong and doesn't burn any oil (Used synthetic oil)
Transmission is still strong (Used synthetic ATF)
Fun to drive with excellent stock handling and "Zoom Zoom" factor
Lots of mods available for 1st Gen Mazda3s.

Cons:
PJB Replaced (very expensive)
Rust on rear fenders and b-pillar doors (eventhough it was RustChecked annually since Day #2)
Bad Fuel Economy
Passenger Side Engine Mount Replaced (Twice)
Interior dash lighting starting to dim and burn out (very annoying)

Overall I am fairly happy with my Mazda3. Its not the most reliable car but its a lot of fun to drive compared to the Corolla and Civic. The hatch is extremely versatile which I love. I'm hoping to get another 4-5 years out of it and make it to 300,000km mark before I buy a Mazda CX5 GT AWD with 2.2L SkyActive-D (Diesel).

[DumpInfo]

Very good points RedRaptor and sol_searchin. I also own a 2000 Honda Civic and haven't ran into any major issues. Mostly just your regular oil changes and the odd brake job but other than that she's been an extremely affordable and a reliable lil car. Good luck!

[sol_searchin]

Make sure all the door locks/windows/sunroof/HVAC controls/ steering wheel controls - work, the PJB is super pricey unless you find a junk yard one that will work, like I said it's a rare fault I wouldn't worry to much about it. I also forgot to add, the 2.3L engines are pretty sensative to oil levels, so make sure to keep your oil topped up at all times. Fuel economy was decent, definetely not a Honda 1.6L so if fuel economy is more important than I would go with a civic, if you prefer drivability> fuel economy grab the 3. Like Redraptor mentioned, dash lights burn out but there easy fixes so I didn't bother mentioning them in my post. I've seen some people get 300k out of there MZ3's and other go 100k and blow an engine, I find that if you take care of your car (any car) it will take care of you, be meticulous on oil changes and fluid changes if you want your car to last. 2004's are 8 years old now so rust should be a fairly common thing among most of them. Just wait it out for the right car.



(If applicable)

Hey,

Firstly, thanks for the tips, Ill make sure to pay extra attention to those when I go check the car out this weekend.
Secondly, how can I check that PJB is working fine?

Also since you've owned couple of these, how are the cars? are they reliable? Hows the gas mileage?

I tried looking for a private owner but they all have high mileages. The ones I mentioned luckily are the cheapest with that kind of mileage.

[5am33r]

Oh yeah I've heard MZ3's are fun to drive and i have driven my friends before. Thats why I am going with a MZ3.
Thanks again with all the help. Ill update this post as I come across cars and when I've bought one.

[htc***]

I also forgot to add, the 2.3L engines are pretty sensative to oil levels, so make sure to keep your oil topped up at all times.

What do you mean ?

or you mean it will need to top up oil between oil change but how many KM before you do it.

[5am33r]

Hey sol, is it true that Mazda's insurance is the highest? Ive been quoted more for the mazda than for a honda

[sol_searchin]

Keep an eye on your oil level, which you should be doing with every car (every fill up is when I do). If you see the stick dips to minimum than top it up if it stays full than your golden. My insurance is cheap regardless of Honda/Mazda so I can't help you there sorry.

[5am33r]

Hey guys,
this is just an update, I got my mazda 3 and I am loving it!
Thank you all for your help and tips.

[zmz3]

Hey guys,
this is just an update, I got my mazda 3 and I am loving it!
Thank you all for your help and tips.

Enjoy your new car !

[Takumi616]

Congrats on purchase...

Hey guys,
this is just an update, I got my mazda 3 and I am loving it!
Thank you all for your help and tips.

[Airman Jack]

Welcome to the '04 Club! It was, by far, the best year

[RedRaptor]

Welcome to the '04 Club! It was, by far, the best year

+1

Congrats Sameer.

Still lovin my 2004.

[tester2013]

Sorry to bring an old thread back up..Im planning on picking up a 2004 Mazda 3 GT Hatch, manual, no leather, with 99,000 kms..no spots/traces of rust anywhere for $4000 plus tax, etested and safetied..is this is a good deal? I own a 04 Mazda 6 GS and it will be on its last leg soon..

Thanks

[Kiewan]

Sorry to bring an old thread back up..Im planning on picking up a 2004 Mazda 3 GT Hatch, manual, no leather, with 99,000 kms..no spots/traces of rust anywhere for $4000 plus tax, etested and safetied..is this is a good deal? I own a 04 Mazda 6 GS and it will be on its last leg soon..

Thanks

Little steep. I bought my 2008 GS for just about the same price last year with more miles. Ask to have your mechanic look at it. Gen1 2.3L engines can be less reliable than the 2.0Ls later on but most don't have any issues.

[Jackal]

Sorry to bring an old thread back up..Im planning on picking up a 2004 Mazda 3 GT Hatch, manual, no leather, with 99,000 kms..no spots/traces of rust anywhere for $4000 plus tax, etested and safetied..is this is a good deal? I own a 04 Mazda 6 GS and it will be on its last leg soon..

Thanks

Why buy a 2004 again? Just wonderin'.

[tester2013]

Why buy a 2004 again? Just wonderin'.

Price wise is tempting and also the car seems pretty clean...