Thread for posting up info on BlackVue dash cams, notably the DR400G. I.e, this thing:
Thread for posting up info on BlackVue dash cams, notably the DR400G. I.e, this thing:
2008 Carbon Gray GT Sedan 5 Speed
Okay, a few pics. Note that the camera is stuck in place with green painters tape... I wanted to be sure of the mounting location before sticking it in place permanently.
If you look in my PhotoBucket album you will find more pictures of the camera stuck in different places... I found this to be the most discreet while still taking decent video.
Edit: Added screen captures...
There is a small part of the black-dot screening on the windshield showing, but it is not really objectionable. For the night shots and the third and fourth day shots the camera is slightly lower, and better aligned to the horizon. The pictures showing the camera install show that location. I'll probably move it down just slightly when I stick in place permanently.
Right now it is powered via the aux power socket in the armrest. The power cable is wrapped around the mirror stalk a couple of times (just in case the green tape fails) and then is run above the passenger, above the passenger assist handle, through the rear passenger assist handle, and then between the seats into the armrest. Good enough until the weather warms up a bit!
Last edited by Noisy Crow; 03-04-2012 at 03:09 AM.
Noisy!! You seem to be king in terms of the electric stuff here. How did you extend the car charger from the top of your car to the arm rest holder? Anyway you can take pics of that? I was thinking about hard wiring this but the cigarette would be the best choice. Also, did you hide the charger wire from the top somehow?
Last edited by Ogata; 03-04-2012 at 03:19 AM.
2008.5 Metropolitan Grey Mica Mazda 3 GT Hatch with Luxury Package DONE: OEM LED Side Mirror Turn Signals | TM3 Decals / Plates | Axela Badge | 3M Scotchguard Film on Front Hood / Fenders | Solarguard Quantum Tints 37% Front 28% Back | Flipkey | JDM Rainguards | MS3 Rear Valence | Super White LED Interior / Trunk / License Plate Lights | Smoked LED Sidermarkers | Powdercoated Blue 18" OZ Ultraleggera Rims | Michelin Pilot Sport AS+ | Blue Calipers with Gunmetal Axela Decals | HID 6000K/3000K with Yellow Film Fogs | Hella Tones | Rally Armor Mudflaps | Powdercoated Gunmetal Xenon Expert Aluminum Pedals | Clear Reflectors | Carbon Fibre Rear Emblem Insert | Redline Elite Hood Lifts | Cross Drilled Rotors with Hawk HPS Pads | CP-E Tow Plate | Her: 2012 Sky Blue Mica Mazda 3 GS
EDIT: OMG You are the best. I totally forgot about the going through the cupholders....THATS EVEN MORE STEALTH!!
On the 2010+ at least, the plug in the armrest stays powered even when the car is off, so the camera will stay on and drain your battery. Just a note to others without the power magic pro box. (And I assume when you do wire up the power magic pro box, you won't be going into the armrest since there are better/easier places to get power from.)
My install (just copying from my previous posts):
The power goes up to the head liner, stuffed under the headliner, runs down the A-piller under the plastic trim, then down the side of the door where I'm drawing power from the fuse box. I have the Power Magic Pro box stuck underneath the storage hole by your left knee.
The Power Magic Pro box was easy. 3 leads.
GND(-) goes to any grounded component (the whole car acts as (-)). There's a bolt holding the driver-side fuse box in place that I was going to use, but I couldn't get my wrench in there. Instead, I slightly loosened what looks like body panel bolt that is on the left of the fuse box, facing forward. Slipped the tongue of the GND under the washer, and tightened it back up. Don't take the bolt out! (God knows what's behind it.) Just loosen it enough to slip the tongue in there.
The BATT(+) gets power from the "Outlet" fuse, which is powered all the time (feeds power to the center storage plug). The ACC(+) gets power from the "CIGAR" fuse, which is only powered when the accessories are on (feeds power to the cigar lighter beside the seat heater controls). As the manual recommended, just slip the wire into the fuse hole, and then plug the fuse in to hold the wire. No soldering needed. Obviously, check to see all this makes sense with a multimeter/voltmeter before you start. Also, I plugged the wire in the "down-stream" side of the fuse, so it's still protected a little. I recall that to be the bottom side of the fuse, but you might want to check again. Don't start stuffing all the wiring into the trim pieces until you've checked it works as you want it to. The plastic fuse panel door will bend a little to let your wires through afterwards. If you're anal, you can sand/cut a small divot in the door to let the wires through, but I didn't bother.
The only ugly part is the wires visible when the door is open, and the excess wire + cig-adaptor-plug between the cam and the box. I ended up just bundling it all and sticking it into that storage hole next to my OBDII transmitter. I'll tape it down, eventually, one day, when I get around to it.
Oh, the dip switches on the box configure a few things. I have it set to 1-2 set to OFF for 11.8 volt cut-off (power to the cam shuts off if the battery dips below 11.8 v) and the rest to ON for no-stop time (so it keeps running as long as there's power). Manual here: http://eng.pittasoft.com/sub1_view.php?idx=53&s=21
Sample night video:
Note that by putting it here, you do not see any of the edge of the windshield, and you just catch a bit of your own hood.
Hmm gives me some ideas on where to place mine when I get it.
How to attach the mounting bracket:
Step 1: Attach the bracket with painters tape. As you can see in the pic I used a ton of it at this location as I was driving around to make sure I was happy with the location. (The blue is because I covered the windshield with a tarp so bright light outside the car didn't blow out the picture)
Step 2: Use painters tape on the outside to outline the edges of the bracket.
Step 3: Remove the bracket and and clean the inside of the windshield where the bracket will attach. You can also remove the painters tape off of the bracket.
Step 3: Peel back just one edge of the red backing on the bracket's sticky pad and fold it back enough that it doesn't flop back on its own
Step 4: Fold over a piece of painters tape so only a bit of the sticky is left exposed, and stick it to the underside of the red backing. Make sure you don't accidentally stick it to the exposed adhesive of the mounting pad. Fold the painters tape pull-tab all the way over so that it lies back on the still-covered part of the backing. You've just created a pull-tab.
Step 5: Put the bracket in place on the windshield, pressing end the small amount of exposed adhesive against the windshield. Use the tape box on the outside to align the bracket. You will be able twist the bracket to get it properly aligned. Hold the bracket flat against the windshield with one hand and use the pull-tab to pull the red backing off. Press the bracket firmly in place when the backing has been removed.
Step 6: Remove the tape from the outside of the windshield, and you are done!
haha awesome tip
Can't have TM3 members driving around with crooked dash cams!
How much did you pay for that dash cam? The quality looks pretty good.
You can them on eBay for about $245, and about for $280 including the Power Magic power adapter. (Power Magic lets the camera stay on until the car's voltage drops too low, and then turns off the camera). I bought mine on eBay.
There is a RFD GB going on... the first lot sold out, but I *think* there will be another round. Price there is $210, GTA pickup only:
There was another RFD GB for $233 shipped, but I think that one is closed.
Yeh, I have the Power Magic. I highly recommend it, as I also recommend wiring the camera to always have power. Reason: it takes about 30-60 seconds to power up from "off", and then sometimes a few minutes more to get a GPS lock. Which means you don't have camera coverage in parking lots, which is one of the common places people get hit (unless you wait everytime you restart the car, and which isn't optimal when doing the Timmie's dash-in-and-out on the way to work).
Hey Rick does the Blackvue work with iphones? or only blackberry?
2007 Mazda 3 GS Electric Blue
Mods: 20% tints around, 17"Tenzo Type M flat black, VG Sharkfin Antenna, Eibach Prokit, Eibach Camber Kit, Vibrant STB, Angel Eyes, Axela Badge, Mazdaspeed Catback Exhaust, blacked out emblems, Nextmod front GV lip, Nextmod Rear Flares., 8000K HID, Aftermarket Fogs, Koni Yellows, Carbon Creations Carbon Fiber Hood.
If you are like me and upgraded the firmware to 1.038 without first making a copy of the firmware included on the microSD card, you can download 1.037 from here:
and 1.038 from here:
After the initial update to to 1.038 the camera kept repeating "the version information is different". Downgrading to 1.037 solved the problem (maybe 1.036 was on the camera?) allowed me to upgrade back to 1.038.
Last edited by bluntman; 03-10-2012 at 08:00 PM.
"boom goes the dynamite"
With the warm weather and sunshine this afternoon I decided to save myself a few bucks and tackle the installation of the PMP and camera. I even lugged out a 20" Dell monitor (it was the only thing monitor that I had with a composite input) to check the alignment of the camera.
One tip, once the camera is aligned use a Sharpie to make an alignment mark on the camera and the holder so if you ever have to remove the camera from the car lining it back up will be a lot easier.
What's your opinion on the unit thus far? Do you find the viewing angle wide enough? My initial thought were to grab a GoPro and have it mounted the same location, but find that motion activation invaluable. Thoughts?
Still liking it.
I have it offset to the left (see my pics) and I find that it captures a decent field of view. I also like how it doesn't obsure a huge part of the windshield. I also like that that the "record" LED flashed differently when an "event" occurs... that has allowed me to adjust the shock sensitivity so it doesn't go into "event" mode everytime I hit a bump in the road (Mazdaspeed dampers + Prokit springs = feel every bump!)
I find that on Toronto roads, I just crank the accelerometer sensitivity to minimal... and it still occasionally goes off.
The recent firmware update now allows turning off the LED in Parking or Normal mode independently, which is nice. I prefer to have minimal distractions while driving, but like LED on when parked as a "security feature" and so I know it's working.
Can anyone take pics on how you hid your wiring? I just realized the charger isn't long enough to go into the center box without having a mess of wires.
So I just test fitted mine. Does anyone know how to continuously record? I initially thought my SD card was broken but didn't realize I had to put it in the Camera first so that it will format it. Another issue is the micro sd card slot takes abit of force to put in. Anyone have this issue unless I have a broken spring. I find that it also gets really hot after in use for awhile.
Last edited by Ogata; 03-25-2012 at 02:21 PM.