Comparison 2004 vs 2012 Mazda3

[Impressive]

Naturally I guess the 2.3 (being a bored out version of the 2.0) will sound louder, so your complaint about the exhaust being quieter might be answered by that. Also, it's a new car, I'm sure it'll start to have a little rumble once the rental mileage starts to pile up

[DaveIrwin24]

i owned both a 2004 gx and 2010 gx and regards to the sound of the exhaust on both it was pretty similar. Both cars are totally different from one another

[LezOLee]

AFAIK the 2012 GX models only have the 4 speaker setup. I'd have to say that the addition of the tweeters in the higher models makes a huge difference in the sound. The highs have more clarity and they don't sound drowned out by the bass. Maybe they don't sound as good for the OP for that reason?

[Gloomfrost]

AFAIK the 2012 GX models only have the 4 speaker setup. I'd have to say that the addition of the tweeters in the higher models makes a huge difference in the sound. The highs have more clarity and they don't sound drowned out by the bass. Maybe they don't sound as good for the OP for that reason?

You're right in that it only had the 4 speakers. That's why I didn't like it, I mentioned before the bass was overpowering. Hopefully the tweeters make a difference on the other models.

[gta_driver]

The same way your temp gauge saved your engine, the light will too!

Once the gauge starts to move towards "warm" is when the light will come on telling you the engine is getting hot.

I know what youre saying that you would rather a gauge than a light though, just if someone is gonna list it as a con and make it a deal breaker and complain about it....it is just useless information.

Why are you being so pedantic? First you criticize the original review because it's one person's opinion. Then you proceed to defend the temperature light to the bone, which is your personal opinion.

Bottom line, a LOT of people prefer the old-school gauge. Since all temperature gauges read their data from the ECU for the past 15 years, it's never as accurate as old-school gauges, but a properly developed modern gauge will provide you with a TON more information than just Cold, Normal, and Hot. I never see the gauge move into a hotter position from its "middle" setting even on hotter days (in my Mazda3), so I suspect Mazda's gauge is pretty dumb, unfortunately.

But on my Audis, the gauge will move up and down as little as 5 degrees. It will indicate to me that a thermostat is stuck open, thus needing replacement. The dummy light would never indicate that. The Audi gauge will also indicate that my aux fan is not working in the summer when the gauge moves up too high. In both cases, it doesn't move beyond "normal".

As far as Mazda3 is concerned, the dummy light may not be any better than a dummy gauge, but I will take a properly developed gauge any day.

P.S. Even on my Mazda3, I know when I can start pushing the car into higher RPMs but not too high. When the gauge starts to move up, I know the car is getting warmer, but I still wouldn't push it hard. What does the dummy light go off, when it's fully hot, or just warm?

[beyond]

Why are you being so pedantic? First you criticize the original review because it's one person's opinion. Then you proceed to defend the temperature light to the bone, which is your personal opinion.

Bottom line, a LOT of people prefer the old-school gauge. Since all temperature gauges read their data from the ECU for the past 15 years, it's never as accurate as old-school gauges, but a properly developed modern gauge will provide you with a TON more information than just Cold, Normal, and Hot. I never see the gauge move into a hotter position from its "middle" setting even on hotter days (in my Mazda3), so I suspect Mazda's gauge is pretty dumb, unfortunately.

But on my Audis, the gauge will move up and down as little as 5 degrees. It will indicate to me that a thermostat is stuck open, thus needing replacement. The dummy light would never indicate that. The Audi gauge will also indicate that my aux fan is not working in the summer when the gauge moves up too high. In both cases, it doesn't move beyond "normal".

As far as Mazda3 is concerned, the dummy light may not be any better than a dummy gauge, but I will take a properly developed gauge any day.

P.S. Even on my Mazda3, I know when I can start pushing the car into higher RPMs but not too high. When the gauge starts to move up, I know the car is getting warmer, but I still wouldn't push it hard. What does the dummy light go off, when it's fully hot, or just warm?

I've owned 2 Audi's (2009, 2012) but I've never seen the temperature gauges move before o.O"

Anyway, back on topic....I had the 2004 Mazda 3 2.3L and currently have the 2012 Mazda 3 GS-SKY.

IMO, it's hard to compare b/c of the different engine sizes. My 2.3L definitely had more "kick" than the SkyActiv. As for the exhaust notes, they sound pretty similar to me. And the whole argument about the engine temperature gauge, I'd agree that it would be nice to have....just a matter of personal preference I guess? I don't mind it so much. It turns blue when the engine is cold and when it warms up, the light disappears...not a big deal.

The newer 2012 models have a lot of the older issues solved. I mean, my 2004 M3 kept blowing its headlights. I think it was b/c the DRL's were the same as the headlights or something? Glad that Mazda solved this issue in the later models. The transmission on my current car is 100x better than the old one. I'd also say that the suspension is better and my chassis feels stiffer (personal preference). The 1 thing I don't like is the torque steer. Even on this "lower powered" GS-SKY model the torque steer is still there!! And the GS-SKY comes w/ crappy tires lol

Other than that, there's not much of a comparison....

Just my 2 cents

[Impressive]

I've owned 2 Audi's (2009, 2012) but I've never seen the temperature gauges move before o.O"

Anyway, back on topic....I had the 2004 Mazda 3 2.3L and currently have the 2012 Mazda 3 GS-SKY.

IMO, it's hard to compare b/c of the different engine sizes. My 2.3L definitely had more "kick" than the SkyActiv. As for the exhaust notes, they sound pretty similar to me. And the whole argument about the engine temperature gauge, I'd agree that it would be nice to have....just a matter of personal preference I guess? I don't mind it so much. It turns blue when the engine is cold and when it warms up, the light disappears...not a big deal.

The newer 2012 models have a lot of the older issues solved. I mean, my 2004 M3 kept blowing its headlights. I think it was b/c the DRL's were the same as the headlights or something? Glad that Mazda solved this issue in the later models. The transmission on my current car is 100x better than the old one. I'd also say that the suspension is better and my chassis feels stiffer (personal preference). The 1 thing I don't like is the torque steer. Even on this "lower powered" GS-SKY model the torque steer is still there!! And the GS-SKY comes w/ crappy tires lol

Other than that, there's not much of a comparison....

Just my 2 cents

Anything VW-related almost ensures that your temperature gauge (if you have one) won't move.

Like I said in my original post, the one on my VW was broken to the point that it wouldn't even be halfway 35 minutes into a drive, however, when my fan broke and the engine was overheating, the gauge did kick in and show me that I need to stop or else it wouldn't be pretty. My 2006 GT takes roughly 2-5 minutes to warm up to the proper setting, depending on how long it has been since the last drive and how cold or warm the current temperature is.

[beyond]

Anything VW-related almost ensures that your temperature gauge (if you have one) won't move.

Like I said in my original post, the one on my VW was broken to the point that it wouldn't even be halfway 35 minutes into a drive, however, when my fan broke and the engine was overheating, the gauge did kick in and show me that I need to stop or else it wouldn't be pretty. My 2006 GT takes roughly 2-5 minutes to warm up to the proper setting, depending on how long it has been since the last drive and how cold or warm the current temperature is.

LOL
VW FAIL!!!
Luckily, I've never ran into such problems w/ my Audi's. I don't know how old your cars were, but perhaps they fixed the issue(s) in the newer models?

[Impressive]

I had an MK4 which is the model that most people seem to have problems with. Electrical and random issues will continue to be the death of VW.
The TDI engines they've put out in the North American market are sweet however...too bad they don't come fitted in a Mazda3.

MK4 = 1999-2004 for Jettas but mine happened to be a 2000.

[mazdaagain]

Probably a repeat here but he goes ... I owned a 2005 GT sedan manual and am now in a 2010 Hatch manual. My main beefs are :

1) The digital fuel gauge. I HATE this. I have no idea where in the "block" I am, especially when I am low on fuel. Ya ya, I know I'll get the "you should never be so low that you are worried" answer
2) Lack of small storage areas especially the small on next to the gear shift. I used to use this to put my phone in and it was perfect for that !!
3) 2 compartment console is now 1 compartment. Much less convenient because I would put certain things I needed to access in the smaller up and bulkier items in the lower
4) lack of temp gauge. My 2010 does not even have a dummy gauge so I have no idea what engine temps are
5) auto locking doors. I HATE this function. It locks all the doors once you start driving

[113GT]

Why are you being so pedantic? First you criticize the original review because it's one person's opinion. Then you proceed to defend the temperature light to the bone, which is your personal opinion.

Bottom line, a LOT of people prefer the old-school gauge. Since all temperature gauges read their data from the ECU for the past 15 years, it's never as accurate as old-school gauges, but a properly developed modern gauge will provide you with a TON more information than just Cold, Normal, and Hot. I never see the gauge move into a hotter position from its "middle" setting even on hotter days (in my Mazda3), so I suspect Mazda's gauge is pretty dumb, unfortunately.

But on my Audis, the gauge will move up and down as little as 5 degrees. It will indicate to me that a thermostat is stuck open, thus needing replacement. The dummy light would never indicate that. The Audi gauge will also indicate that my aux fan is not working in the summer when the gauge moves up too high. In both cases, it doesn't move beyond "normal".

As far as Mazda3 is concerned, the dummy light may not be any better than a dummy gauge, but I will take a properly developed gauge any day.

P.S. Even on my Mazda3, I know when I can start pushing the car into higher RPMs but not too high. When the gauge starts to move up, I know the car is getting warmer, but I still wouldn't push it hard. What does the dummy light go off, when it's fully hot, or just warm?

if you even read and were able to comprehend what you were even reading, I said that the light goes off when it has reached normal operating temps. fully hot means your engine is overheated and maxed out engine temps were reached.

plus, i highlighted one of your statements in bold.....i hope your not serious??

if your gauge didnt move on a hot day, it means your engine is not starting to overheat....in any car i drove, the needle never moved on a hot day with ac running.

and the old school gauges dont provide you with a TON more info...lol they just let you know when it has started to warm up....which doesnt matter because if your gonna hammer it, it is best to do so when it has reached its normal operating temps.

and btw, you were being hypocritical since you are dogging me for dogging the op's review lolol