Where can i get a good kit? Whats the usual cost? I never realised the stuff that was floating around my motor....![]()
Where can i get a good kit? Whats the usual cost? I never realised the stuff that was floating around my motor....![]()
It has come to my attention that cars that recently had their OCC serviced ran into problems afterwards.
A shop had problems with draining the gunk from the OCC [likely to due to infrequent drainings...or impatience] and apparently, the can itself was torched to loosen the gunk. As part of the procedure, the fittings and hosing were loosened but were not reassembled correctly. The result of this is the fittings/hosing would detach. The two instances I speak of, one was the day after, and the other happened two weeks later. Both instances were reported after a hot day of driving around town.
Both reported trouble with idling and low throttle. Both cars drove fine at normal cruising speeds.
The point of this post:
1. The orientation of the drainage nipple can be confusing. Always double check it's tightened after draining.
2. The gunk in the OCC can be difficult if not drained regularly:
a. Drain your can regularly
b. You can stick a straw or even a thicker zip tie thru the bottom drain to loosen the gunk.
c. TRY to avoid using a blow torch. If you do...be careful...contents are flammable.
d. Remember to reattach all hoses and fittings.
3. Feel free to bring this issue up with *ANY* shop that will service your OCC.
4. It's easier to drain if the car's warm after a drive.
I hope this helps others.
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boyracer (07-07-2014)
all that work... I rather have the Mann-Hummel oil separator can and just plumb it back into the oil pan... no worries about draining it/heating it up/running out of oil in the motor
the crap will get boiled off anyway... would you rather have less to no oil in the engine or always have basically full level?
https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmi...nt_en_2013.pdf
2005 Mazda3 SP23 hatchback (auto)
2016 Mazda3 Sport GT (auto)
I used a hair dryer to warm things up gently. Target the surroundings and let it warm up while parked in the garage, say 30 mins, then drain it. I have had bad experience with heat gun, I now take my sweet time.
Make sure you drain your oil catch can at least every 2 weeks during the winter, you will not believe how much water and other crap is inside that can after only 15 days. I just cleaned my Saikou Michi oil catch can 2 weeks after an oil change, and it had enough crap inside to almost fill up a Tim Horton's L cup.
I also use a hair dryer to warm things up, I just blast it directly at the catch can for about 10 mins or so, then I open the valve up and lightly knock the can with my knuckles to get as much out as possible. I don't bother with a hose or any of that shit, too much ****ing work, just put a cup / bottom half of a milk carton under the can (sitting on the mud guard) and let it drain directly down into it.
Definitely second this. I installed the Corksport OCC on Dec 21st thinking I would be ok for at least a month of driving (I do about 20km a day). Around January 15th I noticed white smoke coming out the back intermittently and at first thought it was condensation. Checked the Can on the weekend and it was full and frozen with water. The line coming in was also backed up and frozen. Long story short it started building pressure and oil had to go somewhere. I warmed it up and emptied. 2 weeks later same issue but this time it was worse, as soon as I noticed it I went to check the catch can again, my Oil dip stick popped out and oil had come up and sprayed the engine bay. 2 weeks!! Catch can was full again with a little oil and a lot of frozen water.
I'm seriously debating taking the whole thing out but will probably keep it and checking it every two weeks. Will be easier to maintain and drain when its not -20C outside. I made a small 3" hole on the splash tray right under the can for easy access with an allen key to drain it.