Gen 1 Mazda3 GS Conversion to Factory Xenon Stup

[omalak]

So... Not that I am an expert, but from what I gather off the diagram.

For the lavelling switch

R(I) needs to go to a positive connection that is on with ignition
B(I) needs to go to ground wire
L(I) needs to go to both headlight actuating motors through the firewall

I don't need to really feed the switch wiring into the fuse box

[Gizzmo_jr]

You would be correct, middle wire on the actuators motors.

[omalak]

So... There is a dimmer switch that controls interior dash light levels.

If i tapped the positive and groun wires from there to go to the levelling switch i should be ok correct?

Wish i could find the actual connector though as i dont really want to do an ad hoc job getting wites attached into the levelling switch switch

Would you happen to have a diagram for the interior dash light switch, to determine what is positive/ground

[Gizzmo_jr]

Tada...

[omalak]

Just want to confirm that the ground wire from the actuator motors can be connected to the negative/ground wire that is going to the ballasts?

so both Power/Ground of actuator motors to be tapped into the Power/Ground coming out of the ballast

[Gizzmo_jr]

If I recall my setup, I believe I tapped the ground from my Hella horns and power from +12v to the ballasts.
The actuators need any switched +12v/GND, I picked something that was active if the lights were on (like the ballasts in your example).

[omalak]

If I recall my setup, I believe I tapped the ground from my Hella horns and power from +12v to the ballasts.
The actuators need any switched +12v/GND, I picked something that was active if the lights were on (like the ballasts in your example).

So, the way I have done it should work then both 12v and GND from the plug going into the xenon ballasts.


i've reconfirmed that my car does not have any pre-wiring for the headlight switch, seeing as the pins on the switch are quite close not alot of connectors will fit in there. I did however have an idea of connecting a jumper cable into the switch this seems to work, I just worry if the wires on the jumper cable will be ok as the wire is likely 24 AWG or higher.

Pic attached, what's your take.



And as I mentioned in a few posts above, since I have no connector for the switch, I will have to run 5 wires from the switch

based on the diagrams you posted Gizzmo;

- 3 pins on the switch are for the actual control of motors
- Signal, wire will run out from firewall to each actuator motor
- Power, what is the best place to tap power?
- Ground, what is the best place to tap ground? if no place then I can take it to any metal part in the cabin right?

- 2 wires are for illumination of the LED on the switch.
- Power, thinking of tapping power from the interior light dimming switch, or possibly same source as power above (whatever that may be)
- Ground, take this to metal part of cabin, or tap in the same place ground was tapped above (whatever that may be)

Thanks again!

[Gizzmo_jr]

That for the dash panel switch? You'd need 3, signal to the motors and pos/neg for illuminating the light. You're 5 wire gang seems overkill.

The actuators are always getting the 12v power source, and the motors turn only if the input resistance from the signal wire changes (roller within the cabin). Thus use any bare metal for ground and +12v source (suggest switched with ignition) on the motor side of the fire wall.

The only wire through the firewall is the signal wire from the dial to the actuators.
Illuminating the switch icon is easy, just use the circuit that the rest of the dials use (tap the interior cabin dimmer wires themselves I'd guess).

[omalak]

That for the dash panel switch? You'd need 3, signal to the motors and pos/neg for illuminating the light. You're 5 wire gang seems overkill.

The actuators are always getting the 12v power source, and the motors turn only if the input resistance from the signal wire changes (roller within the cabin). Thus use any bare metal for ground and +12v source (suggest switched with ignition) on the motor side of the fire wall.

The only wire through the firewall is the signal wire from the dial to the actuators.
Illuminating the switch icon is easy, just use the circuit that the rest of the dials use (tap the interior cabin dimmer wires themselves I'd guess).

So I can keep the actuators wired as I have them now then, 12v tap to ballast 12v and the ground tapped to the ground on the ballast connector.

In terms of dash switch I mentioned 5 wires because that's what the diagram seems to show. 12v going to led then a ground from the led. I can tap these from the interior illumination switch.

The other 3 wires are for the actual working of the switch 1 signal wire going through the firewall and another 12v tapped to an ignition 12v wire and then the last wire being a ground which I can connect to any metal inside the cabin.

That's how I see it unless I'm looking at the diagram wrong.

Thanks for all the help Gizzmo

[Gizzmo_jr]

Incase you want it;

Manual Xenon Leveling Illumination


Okay, that last post got across a point I wasn't understanding clearly from your original wording. Yes you are right, the 'extra' interior 12v circuit for the resistor signal wire circuit.

Fabricated Cable (example for those who are following along)
1-factory illumination POS
2-factory illumination GND
3-Switched 12v
4-Manual Leveling Output Signal (to actuators)
5-Chassis GND

Sounds like you've got it all planned out now