"Engine Restore"

[a_ahmed]

I've used this on my other cars and i've used it on my mazda 3 with the blown engine with rod bearing failure. I put 5w30 amsoil in the new engine... and I avoided putting engine restore BUT I am curious...

Does anyone actually KNOW what is in this? What does it actually do within the engine?

In practice, it really makes the engine smoother, it really increases power and mpg... noticeable... it even makes the engine quieter... beautiful... but is it actually harmful in anyway long term?

[a_ahmed]

And if you're wondering it's this:



The one I get is 4cyl, although on my 240sx 2.4l 4cyl i was told that people use 6cyl and ive used that... and it worked fine... in the mazda 3 i used the 4cyl its just less volume per bottle.. and there is an 8 cyl formula too

[silverstarmazda]

lol ive done my research on this stuff. and unless you got some serious wear in your engine, i would say you wont need this. this is more for jeeps with over 200, 000 kilometers. its an additive that makes the oil stick to the walls of the cylinders better, allowing better a better seal and less blow by. however, this might thicken your oil which isnt good for the pump. it wont thicken it by much but it will. unless your burning a ridiculous amount of oil and high milage oil doesnt work, i wouldnt use this just yet

[TheMAN]

it's not bad, but you're better off with a real engine flush then using a high mileage motor oil

[silverstarmazda]

this isnt an engine flush, its an oil additive. it replaces about a cans worth of oil

[a_ahmed]

So are you saying. Lets say our engine takes 4.5 quarts... with this instead of using 4.5 we use 3.5 and then add this? Damn i was adding this on top of whatever was in already o_O I was under the impression it would burn away while driving or something...

[Wes08M3]

lol ive done my research on this stuff. and unless you got some serious wear in your engine, i would say you wont need this. this is more for jeeps with over 200, 000 kilometers. its an additive that makes the oil stick to the walls of the cylinders better, allowing better a better seal and less blow by. however, this might thicken your oil which isnt good for the pump. it wont thicken it by much but it will. unless your burning a ridiculous amount of oil and high milage oil doesnt work, i wouldnt use this just yet

If it does in fact thicken the oil, not only does it cause problems with the pump but a thicker oil causes more engine start-up wear. Which would make this stuff counter productive...

Seems pointless to me unless your engine is heavily worn, in which case this is a cheap "fix".

[TheMAN]

long term, it cheaper to do an engine flush and use high mileage oil afterwards
I'd only use this stuff if I wanted to be shady when I go sell/trade a car

[a_ahmed]

I am using 5w30 amsoil right now.. i dont think ill add anything else... at least ill use it in summer in winter ill go back to 5w20

[midnitehour]

So are you saying. Lets say our engine takes 4.5 quarts... with this instead of using 4.5 we use 3.5 and then add this? Damn i was adding this on top of whatever was in already o_O I was under the impression it would burn away while driving or something...

and you wonder why your motor blew? stick to just oil following the regular change schedule and you'll be fine. No need to mess with additives

[silverstarmazda]

bottom line, this product is for sevearly worn engines with up to 200, 000 kms. i would imagine the honda and toyota guys using this.

[Wes08M3]

I am using 5w30 amsoil right now.. i dont think ill add anything else... at least ill use it in summer in winter ill go back to 5w20

5w-20 oil is technically not any thinner than 5w-30 at ambient temps, meaning it's not going to flow much better when it's cold. If you want something that flows better in the cold, without question, use a 0 weight oil. 0w-20 or 0w-30 oil would be best.

Very good information here.

In actuality, you'd be better off using a 0w-20 or 0w-30 all year round if you follow BITOG's guidelines. Most engine wear occurs during START-UP which is why a 0 weight is better.

[a_ahmed]

Well I used 0w20 and the motor blew and ppl were criticizing me for it. I took that advice you are giving prior from reading people switching to 0w20... but there..

[Zuluwun]

Most 2.3L engines that blow do so from oil starvation. That means it doesn't matter what viscosity oil is in there, if it runs low, the engine blows. 0W20 is no thinner that 5W20 at operating temps anyway.

[Wes08M3]

Most 2.3L engines that blow do so from oil starvation. That means it doesn't matter what viscosity oil is in there, if it runs low, the engine blows. 0W20 is no thinner that 5W20 at operating temps anyway.

+1

0w-20 oil is not the reason the engine blew. It likely blew because it was consuming oil and didn't have a sufficient amount at one point in time. That's why people were questioning you, not because of the oil grade.

0w-20 is the recommended oil for the MZR now, do you really think Mazda changed anything from 2010 to 2011 to accomodate this thinner oil on a motor they soon will not be using? Not likely... It should be more than fine for any 3 that has had proper maintenance. Just my conclusions from some research though.

[TheMAN]

I'm not going to speculate on why his engine blew, but it is a known fact that running any 20 weight oil with these engines causes the oil to be burned because it's a thin, energy conserving oil... there's far less problems running a 30 weight oil

[silverstarmazda]

my 04 ran 5w20 all its life and switched to synthetic 10,000 km ago and it still doesnt burn a drop of oil

[Wes08M3]

Been running Castrol 5w-20 dino in the '07 for 230,000km and it doesn't burn a drop of oil either.

I'm not saying no MZR burns oil but that doesn't mean they should be. Proper maintenance plays a key role here too.

[Impressive]

Been running Castrol 5w-20 dino in the '07 for 230,000km and it doesn't burn a drop of oil either.

I'm not saying no MZR burns oil but that doesn't mean they should be. Proper maintenance plays a key role here too.

Hands down the most important thing to vehicle performance is in the maintenance. I run dino oil as well in my 06 that is approaching 200,000km and I've never had any issues nor does she burn a drop of oil. She also runs just like she did when I first got her.

Synthetic is nice when you've got a brand new car, but I think it's pointless truthfully as you end up shelling out extra cash for the same result.

[TheMAN]

not a waste of money if you're going for extended oil change intervals.... it's more environmentally friendly too as there's less waste in the long term

[Impressive]

Our extended or recommended synthetic intervals are nowhere near those of our European counterparts which is pretty disappointing to be honest.

[Wes08M3]

Synthetic does have its benefits, mainly start-up wear protection (just my opinion) but I agree that sometimes you may not even notice these benefits. If you really abuse a car, these benefits might actually be noticed.

I still don't like the idea of year long drain intervals or something around there. Synthetic or not, it just doesn't feel right to keep the oil in the engine so long lol. With newer cars like mine, you're pretty much forced into running synthetic oil since 0w-20 is recommended and only comes as a synthetic. Luckily the Mazda 0w-20 is not badly priced.

[TheMAN]

Our extended or recommended synthetic intervals are nowhere near those of our European counterparts which is pretty disappointing to be honest.

I wasn't talking about following the book

[silverstarmazda]

i got "synthetic" and still change my oil after 5000km or how my dad says it "every other month"

[TheMAN]

I'm not going to tell you how to spend your money, but I think that's ignorance and a big waste
I never had any problems doing 16000km synthetic oil changes with my cars... that saves me money and lets me be more "green"... it's win win