what kinda of gas do you use and find best?

[Reddie1337]

@Reddie1337 When is a good time for a fuel injection flush? Is that what he means by getting the valves cleaned? Or are they two totally different things?

@Jackal

Two different things. Direct injection engines put fuel right into the combustion chamber, so if you put an additive into the tank, it's not cleaning the valves. A fuel system flush shouldn't need to be done for a long time. Or if you have water in the fuel. You can add additives with a high octane boost to try to clean it up, but as long as you use a reputable gas station, you shouldn't have much problem. If you are cleaning valves you have to do it though the intake, but that's risky if you don't have much experience, because if you use too much cleaner, you can hydro lock the engine. I've actually been thinking about taking my intake off to clean it up nicely. More work, but you can see the intake valves so clearly.

[Jackal]

Thanks @Reddie1337 It was one of the things that the service advisor mentioned I should get. Haha. Another thing to say no to because I know the car is running great and I only use Shell or Pertro Can gas. He also mentioned I should change out my spark plugs. I am at 88,500 and no problems when starting. I read that should be done at 120,000 or so. Another thing to turn down. Sorry Mr. Advisor.

[Reddie1337]

Thanks @Reddie1337 It was one of the things that the service advisor mentioned I should get. Haha. Another thing to say no to because I know the car is running great and I only use Shell or Pertro Can gas. He also mentioned I should change out my spark plugs. I am at 88,500 and no problems when starting. I read that should be done at 120,000 or so. Another thing to turn down. Sorry Mr. Advisor.

Well, whenever i get a new car from the auction, I normally change the plugs, but I just couldn't bring myself to spend all that money that it would cost me on the plugs. Maybe I will soon, I am nearing 100000km soon, and I am really only getting around 6L/100km in my Skyactiv.

[Jackal]

$50 a pop for spark plugs makes you think. Great mileage btw. Hit 4000rpm once in a while, why doncha?

[Reddie1337]

$50 a pop for spark plugs makes you think. Great mileage btw. Hit 4000rpm once in a while, why doncha?

I did today, went 100km on 5.4L of gas...

[greyseason]

Well, whenever i get a new car from the auction, I normally change the plugs, but I just couldn't bring myself to spend all that money that it would cost me on the plugs. Maybe I will soon, I am nearing 100000km soon, and I am really only getting around 6L/100km in my Skyactiv.

$50 a pop for spark plugs makes you think. Great mileage btw. Hit 4000rpm once in a while, why doncha?

theres no non-OEM plug that will work on our cars?

[WHO]

theres no non-OEM plug that will work on our cars?

The NGK/Bosch Iridium ones are like 6$ a pop at RockAuto. That's for non-SKY (MZR 2L engine) but I dunno that it makes such a big difference. I can't imagine ever paying 50$ for a spark plug. I never even paid that much for my highly tuned RX-7.

[Reddie1337]

@greyseason @WHO I haven't found one yet. They are at least 45 a piece at the dealer for the sky's.

[greyseason]

The NGK/Bosch Iridium ones are like 6$ a pop at RockAuto. That's for non-SKY (MZR 2L engine) but I dunno that it makes such a big difference. I can't imagine ever paying 50$ for a spark plug. I never even paid that much for my highly tuned RX-7.

@greyseason @WHO I haven't found one yet. They are at least 45 a piece at the dealer for the sky's.

just happen to find this just now

A few compatible replacement spark plugs with their part numbers include the following:
Denso FC20HPR8 (Mazda OEM # PE02-18-110),
NGK DILKAR7F8 (Mazda # PE01-18110),
NGK (3811) ILTR5A-13G,
Pulstar ef1i,
and Autolite XP5364.


Source : http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/M...acement-Guide/

[Reddie1337]

The only one my place can get is the autolite ones. And they are definitely cheaper.

13 a piece instead of 45. @greyseason

[WHO]

The only one my place can get is the autolite ones. And they are definitely cheaper.

13 a piece instead of 45. @greyseason

Those are 2.50$ each at RockAuto now. 5$ from RockAuto minus 2.50 MIR from Autoline per plug. So you can have about 20 plugs for the price of 1 OEM.

The NGK are 10.50 each...

[greyseason]

still without the deal, $20 /4

[Booter22]

Seriously though.. for what the plugs do and how often you replace them why would you want to go cheap? I mean sure the oem plugs are pricy. But the car get that once every 5 years or 120 000km. As noted with oem plugs. What will thr cheap ones give you? 5 year 120k? I doubt that. Will it be same gap and an iridium tip? Prolly not. I dunno im going oem or best aftermarket plug i can get for it. If ngk non oem is 20 for the same thing. Sure might consider it.

Just sayin.... super sayin.. that is

[Reddie1337]

Seriously though.. for what the plugs do and how often you replace them why would you want to go cheap? I mean sure the oem plugs are pricy. But the car get that once every 5 years or 120 000km. As noted with oem plugs. What will thr cheap ones give you? 5 year 120k? I doubt that. Will it be same gap and an iridium tip? Prolly not. I dunno im going oem or best aftermarket plug i can get for it. If ngk non oem is 20 for the same thing. Sure might consider it.

Just sayin.... super sayin.. that is

I will probably bow to the awesome might that is the dealer item, I love me my genuine Mazda stuff.

[kasakato]

Going back to the thread, has anyone found Esso gas better than Petro Can? Only had a few tanks of each but millage seems to be better with Esso.

[Sendarian]

Shell, Air Miles has sucked me in! Also the guy that works at the shell near my place responds with "insane" when I ask how he is doing. Makes for a good laugh every time

[m_bisson]

I had some thoughts during a boring day at work, so I did some research and this is what I found!
Also, I'm doing this from my my phone so it's not going to be as long or in depth as I'd like....

The octane rating doesn't have anything to do with how much power the gas can produce. It doesn't give an indication of how much octane is actually in the gas, either. I'm sure a lot of you think "Oh 87 percent octane, must mean that 870 milliliters out of every litre is pure octane". Doesn't work like that. The '87' is a rating of how the fuel will resist "knocking" in the engine, compared to pure isooctane. There are some fuels rated OVER 100, which resist knocking better than pure (100 percent :p) octane.


What is knock? The gasoline in the combustion chamber doesn't all ignite simultaneously. A small ball of fire starts at the tip of the spark plug, then a wave of flame expands outwards in all directions. The remaining unignited fuel in the chamber is compressed as the other fuel ignites. If it gets compressed enough, it can "self-ignite" before the flame from the spark plug reaches it, causing a secondary combustion. This is "knock", and is incredibly damaging to an engine.


Now, if you take 1 litre of 87 and 1 litre of 91, they will both produce the same amount of energy when burned. You simply CANNOT create energy where there isn't any to be created. If you take a litre of 91 and put it in a Toyota Corolla, then put a litre of 91 into a Porsche, the porsche will be able to extract more of the available energy from the gas. This is just due to engine design, not because of the difference in fuels. If it was possible to burn 87 in the Porsche without it knocking, it would produce the same amount of power as the 91.

The only reason to use higher grade fuels is to prevent "knock". Our cars, and even more modern 'high-end' cars will run perfect on 87. Newer cars have computers that can adjust for lower grades of fuel, even if it calls for premium.
Higher power, performance engines will create a lot more compression in the combustion chamber, especially if there's a turbo or super charger involved. This added pressure will almost certainly cause regular 87 to "knock" during ignition. Our cars do not create enough pressure (compression) for this to happen.
***If you're reading this, and your vehicle knocks with regular gas, then something is probably wrong with your engine***

Tuning: some of you have changed the timing on the engine. This may or may not cause knocking with regular fuel. If it doesn't cause knock, then you haven't increased the effective compression enough to warrant the use of a higher grade fuel.


Tl;dr

The best thing you can do is run the lowest rated fuel you can that doesn't cause knocking.

Edit: this post is assuming an ethanol-free fuel. If you compare an 87 with ethanol to a 91 with zero ethanol, then of course there will be a difference in mileage! Ethanol has less energy than octane, and will decrease your mileage by a small amount. But really, a small amount; likely less than 1mpg difference.

Edit again: It doesn't matter if it's ethanol-free 87 or E10 87. 87 is the anti-knock index number. You're engine should not be having issues with any 87 rated fuel.

[Reddie1337]

Yeah. The last time I ran 94 in my 2.3, all I did was burn more gas, it decreased my mileage. So your post seems accurate.

[asyed]

+1 on the ethanol thing





Also overtime ethanol can be potentially bad for your engine by wearing down various seals and possibly gumming up your engine.



I myself have converted to shell 91 as its the only fuel with no ethanol. I would fill up with 87 but most 87 in Ontario has ethanol.




Also on. A side note... Petro 91/94 is not ethanol free.

[m_bisson]

+1 on the ethanol thing





Also overtime ethanol can be potentially bad for your engine by wearing down various seals and possibly gumming up your engine.



I myself have converted to shell 91 as its the only fuel with no ethanol. I would fill up with 87 but most 87 in Ontario has ethanol.




Also on. A side note... Petro 91/94 is not ethanol free.

Ethanol won't hurt modern engines... so you're wasting your money :p

[MajesticBlueNTO]

+1 on the ethanol thing





Also overtime ethanol can be potentially bad for your engine by wearing down various seals and possibly gumming up your engine.



I myself have converted to shell 91 as its the only fuel with no ethanol. I would fill up with 87 but most 87 in Ontario has ethanol.




Also on. A side note... Petro 91/94 is not ethanol free.

E10 won't harm your engine or fuel lines unless your car was made pre early 90s. Ethanol or some other oxygenate (others having been banned due to doing more harm than good) have been in gas for almost 15 years.

Manufacturers have long since accounted for ethanol of at least E10 to E15 in fuel lines, fuel pumps, and engine seals.

Higher concentrations in a car not designed for E85, on the other hand, have shown to gum up high pressure/cam driven fuel pumps.

Switching to Shell 91 in a car specified for 87 is throwing away money... Unless you've done the math and have shown that the extra kms/tank gained from Shell 91 more than offsets the cost of 91 vs 87

[asyed]

E10 won't harm your engine or fuel lines unless your car was made pre early 90s. Ethanol or some other oxygenate (others having been banned due to doing more harm than good) have been in gas for almost 15 years.

Manufacturers have long since accounted for ethanol of at least E10 to E15 in fuel lines, fuel pumps, and engine seals.

Higher concentrations in a car not designed for E85, on the other hand, have shown to gum up high pressure/cam driven fuel pumps.

Switching to Shell 91 in a car specified for 87 is throwing away money... Unless you've done the math and have shown that the extra kms/tank gained from Shell 91 more than offsets the cost of 91 vs 87

I don't know if its psychological but I've noticed a significant boost in fuel economy since switching to shell (driving habits did not change)

Yes modern engines can withstand E10/E15 but for how long. Manufacturers don't expect cars to last long and they don't go too out of the way to prevent damage from ethanol... They only try and slow down the process.


Besides I'd rather pay an extra $10 for prolonged engine life compared to paying hundreds more for replacing seals etc.

[loki]

I don't know if its psychological but I've noticed a significant boost in fuel economy since switching to shell (driving habits did not change)

Yes modern engines can withstand E10/E15 but for how long. Manufacturers don't expect cars to last long and they don't go too out of the way to prevent damage from ethanol... They only try and slow down the process.


Besides I'd rather pay an extra $10 for prolonged engine life compared to paying hundreds more for replacing seals etc.

Mbnto is not only experienced with these cars but is also a mechanical engineer

Maybe you should listen and stop wasting your money

[loki]

But of course you always know better @asyed

[asyed]

But of course you always know better @asyed

im not just going off what I think... I have a friend who really knows his way around cars and told me that I should stop using 87 or what he reffers to as "shit fuel"