Hole In Block Tuning! I'll give you HIB.
2010 MS3 Black395whp/386wtq
| Molnar Rods | CP-e Stage 2 Pistons | Much Head Work | ATP GTX3076 | Tial 38mm EWG | HTP 4 Inch Intake | BSD | Passenger and Rear MM | Denso ITV22's | OCC | Ultimate Racing TBE | Tredstone TR8C FMIC | Tial BPV | Autotech Internals | Grimmspeed ECBS 3 port | Te37 Volks| 245/45/17 Dunlop zzi tires| Cobb AP Self Street Tuned | Sonic Tuning CO's | stoptech breaks and slotted roters |
Did you ever manage to get the car fixed and on the road again?
2011 MAZDASPEED3 Hypnotic Tuned - Rob
CPE HPFP - CPE Catted Downpipe - CPE Catback Exhaust - 3" ETS TMIC - Cobb RMM - AEM Boost Gauge & Vent Pod - CANBus Triple - Corksport BPV - Corksport hood strut - Corksport RSB - Corksport Short Shifter - HTP 3.5" Intake - Damond TMM - Damond Vented CC - Vented Oil Cap - Tokay v2 Seals - GTX3067R - Damond PCV Plate - Built Engine (Manley Rods, 88mm Supertech 4032 Piston) -
no he hasnt got it back together its still sitting in the garage with parts everywhere
we've been trying to find him a new motor to build
Last edited by Snotrocket; 01-30-2014 at 09:04 PM.
lol this i have to see...
More Like spring 2020.
NATOR North making breakthroughs In engine building. We got to 60kms this time!
0-60 in 2 years
LOL one day
DAI | XXR | NANKANG | DOMINANT ENGINERING | KW | BRIDE
KAPTION | JVC | OPTIMA | INJEN | TRI POINT | NRG | AVENUE
STRIPPING TECHNOLOGIES | EXCLUSIVE WHEEL AND TIRE | KAPTION
The only thing u can recommend from my experience is to be super anal about checking all the bearing clearances with a plastigauge. Last time I built a turbo mzr motor for my 6, the plastigauge helped to identify 2 bearings which were too tight and would have scored the shit out of the metal. Oh, and since you're swapping cams is is critical to check the clearance, and if necessary replace the shims under the buckets to get within spec.
greyseason (03-29-2014),loki (03-29-2014),Thrizzl3 (03-29-2014)
179hp 201lb/tq? dafuq kind of power is that??? lol
The fast.
You think I could squeeze a few more HP up top?
Lmao! **** you mike
For anyone following this thread: I'm 300 km into the break in and have done 3 oil changes. During the last oil change I cut open the oil filter which revealed no metal at all. I'm fairly confident the rings have seated quite well and the engine sounds very healthy.
I having a few pesky codes I've been trying to shake. P0012 crank timing over retarded and another code CKP sensor circuit problem.
Despite the codes I am going to start making a little bit of power because the car is running quite well. VD's of my progress to follow.
on a scale of zero to expert, i'm at a bout 0.5, bit wouldnt that error code have the potential to cause doom? (detonation/Knocking, bent parts, boom?)
-cj- (05-05-2014)
Little update, installed V3 AP and have been enjoying it until last night when my clutch petal hit the floor and didn't come back up :-/
Likely list hydraulic pressure... Hope to get under and have a look tonight or tomorrow. Lucky for me I was on my street and was able to roll into my driveway lol
Happened to my old car prolly the master cylinder
Clutch slave cylinder
Clutch slave yea. I've had a problem with some bolts backing out on my car. On the slave cylinder one backed out and she got all cockeyed. Blew the cylinder.
greyseason (05-05-2014)
Been a while since I have made any sort of updates. Despite the problems i have encountered i have managed to make some decent numbers on pump. While tuning around my issues I have come up with some new theories i wanted to throw out there.
My latest theory is as follows:
As discussed previous I was having issues with my VVT. In short I would lose all intake advance after about 5 minutes of driving. Another problem i was having was everything being extremely under powered given the amount of boost and timing i was throwing at it.
I proceeded to do a compression and leakdown test at the advice of a buddy which yielded results of 180-175-175-190 and 15% leak down in all cylinders.
During the re-timing process of my motor i ended up breaking the front cover where the bolt goes in to line up the crank pulley. Although that had happened it looked as if i still managed to have everything lined up but i am now starting to wonder. From what i have read each tooth on the crank pulley represents 3 degrees of timing so what if my crank pulley is retarded by around 2 teeth? So i decided to slowly add timing until i ran into knock and this is where i got on pump....
20 degrees at redline and actually made some decent power.
Im also wondering if the ECU is seeing a discrepancy between the crank pulley and the cams and is pulling all intake advance to prevent damage. Is there anywhere to find out the ECU's logic on the matter?
I will be swapping my head studs and thus re-timing the motor come spring but I figured i would ran it past anyone interested in this.
and i reached my goal for this summer