True enough. Ill return car to stock, then get the internals installed, then ap and put back on the intake.
The car may be a production line car however every car is differen't. How the car is driven and broken in will also change the cars charecteristics drastically. For the first 5000km of my cars life I cannot speak as it was a demo but I hope it was beaten as I do drive it hard on a daily, however I overmaintain it
1991 Nissan Pathfinder - trade in, 2005 Mazda 3 GX ty grey - Write off, 2010 Mazda 3 GT E sedan CWP- trade in, 2010 Speed 3 w/tech CWP - Up for sale (soon), 2007 Mazda 3 GS silver- motor swapped in to 2009 MS3 CWP that had blown engine, 2002 BMW 330ci silver- new winter ride, 2005 BMW M3- new toy
If the car was having fueling issues with the stock pump and you swapped in a stock pump and still have fueling issues. I suggest getting that car back to stock because if you blow something, the dealer has surely made a record that the car was not stock. No mystery here. You are feeding the car more air and with the exhaust, allowing it to escape faster. All things equal, the car simply does not know how to compensate. The MAF can make some adjustments but you're asking a lot from it and if it can not supply the fuel needed but you still keep feeding it the air, there is no mystery to what will happen.
An AP although not the cheapest mod to buy is THE BEST to purchase first. Until you have something to show and log what is going on, you really have no clue. In a lot of cases, neither does the car.
Personally I would stock that car before hitting boost again. Motors aren't cheap. By comparison an AP is. Much easier to install as well.
You'll also have a hard time finding a MS3 motor at the junkyard which means the only other solution if you window the block is to buy from the dealer or buy a new block and throw your own goodies in.
Either or, you're looking at 10 times the cost at a minimum of the price of an AP.
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The car only had 15km off the lot, the only time I have ever pushed the car was on a lapping day at the track on the summer. Normally I take it pretty easy on the car.
It's apparent it's the mods like you guys are saying. I wanna take the safest path from now on out without damaging the engine anymore.
I guess ill just explain the situation to the dealership when it opens, and take off the intake and CBE if necessary.
Order ap and internals looking forward before I think of putting anymore mods on.
Thanks for the input guys
Something that everyone neglects to me took is that if your pack if fuel weakens your rods, down the line, even after you have put a new pump in or swapped the internals, there is no reset, if the metal is in any weakened, it can not repair itself, they are not organic creatures.
Whatever damage is done or is being done can only shorten the life span of your motor and 2 years from now, if something goes wrong and you window your block because the rods were weak and snap, it's not a design fault. These motors car live long healthy lives, if maintained and treated properly.
We all must understand this and we all must understand that any modification to the engine to increase power or efficiency is going to shorten the lifespan of that motor.
This is not directed at you but to everyone modifying their car.
We also forget that time 5 years ago when we let the engine oil dip low or go too long between change intervals. Then when we spin a bearing, all of a sudden, we scream design flaw. We are all guilty of it but I know Fobio has preached this dozens of times but here's one more; every time one of these engines blows prematurely, the value of our cars decreases. Every time someone safely makes say 400hp, our resale value increases. People buying used cars do their research and if/when I am ever ready to sell my Speed 3, I would like to get the most possible from it.
Sorry if it came off as harsh but it's for everyone, and done properly, these cars can be modified for good gains or great fuel economy. The benefit we all have now is that most of us aren't breaking ground with this platform. The mistakes have been made for us. We can safely modify these cars by following a few key steps. If you are not prepared to constantly log and keep your eyes on your access port, I don't suggest modding much more than you have until you take it to a pro to have it tuned.
So the dealership found the issue, I need a new steering angle sensor so they have it on order.
Sounds like when they said I needed a new starter connector and that they replaced it but the part on there was still old and had not been moved.
LOL
Happened when my car tossed 15-20 or so codes and what was actually wrong was the immobilizer lost the programming
Ask to see the old part, maybe it's legit as the steering sensor has a relation to boost
I still highly suggest a Cobb Access Port or other monitoring/tuning device
Yeah as long as it wasn't the fuel pump giving out on me. Hopefully they will have it installed tomorrow and I can have my car back.
I've been borrowing my friends cars all week and getting sick of it.
Ap will be on order within the next cpl months for sure.
So my maf sensor was not functioning as well so they had to replace it too.
I'm going to take off the cp-e cai and get an Sri so i don't have to worry about any water issues in the future
More issues already with the car
I had a cell come on a cpl days ago and my buddy scanned it and it was running too rich bank 1.
Took it into the dealership today and they told me the car will need new injectors. It's covered under warranty and all that but it's just becoming annoying with the amount of issues so far and it's not even a year old.
Just needed to get that off of my chest. 4 visits in one month lol
this is reminding me of when i had all of my problems just happen at once lol, sorry to hear about all the shit thats going on with ur ride man.
Beginning to think I bought a lemon, new fuel pump, steering wheel angle sensor, maf sensor, fuel injectors before a year old lol
Thanks man I'm just hoping all the problems are happening early and it's smooth sailing after for awhile.
Go get a pump and your problems will disappear as to me this sounds more like the dealer is firing parts at it because they have no clue what's wrong with it. The maf sensor would cause all kinds of driving malfunctions but i highly doubt a hpfp fueling issue as it is a mechanical part. The steering angle sensor makes no sense to me either, as comparing them to cars at work with a turbo I have never seen it be affected by the steering angle. Now the injectors? Come on to me this sounds like a parts cannon car
Yeah it's beyond me, and I wish I had more knowledge about cars. I removed bpv and intake gonna keep it stock for awhile other then the cbe because it's my dd. The dealership couldn't explain too much about what's happening with the car. Still love the car to death though
Last edited by DaveIrwin24; 01-07-2013 at 04:47 PM.
Sorry to hear about all your issues DaveIrwin24. That's annoying!
*noob question*
Not sure where to ask this and did not want to create another thread with the same title. Currently my car runs fine with no problems at all and I rarely if ever drive it hard. I might hit 5000RPM once in a while.
Installed: AEM Cold air Intake with AEM Bypass valve - I simply did this for the unique sound it creates and the small performance enhancement it may or may not have. I would like to add a cat back exhaust at some point in the near future.
Should I be looking to replace my fuel pump at time of cat back install? Should I have it installed now? Do you think I require one?
Based on comments above, it seems as though the best thing to do is go back to stock. If I start to experience serious problems I will go back to stock. However, until then I would like to upgrade the air flow and do it correctly based on others experience.
Will I require the AP in order to make all this work as its intended?
On the 2nd gen a fuel pump/internals upgrade should be considered even before an intake. Since you already have an intake, I would next upgrade internals or buy a fuel pump, then if you want a CBE go that route. However, you will see more performance from the car, by opting for an AP before the CBE, and then altering the stock tune.
2010 Black Mazdaspeed 3 - Lightly modded
S.F.W - Thank you very much, I will definitely follow whatever advice you throw my way. After the CBE upgrade I am done with engine upgrades so I want to do this right the first time.
This might be the best noob question ever!!
I understand Fuel Pump but I am lost when you mention "internals". I am likely thinking too much of nothing but what parts exactly are you referring to? Or in other words, could someone dumb this down enough so I know exactly what to buy haha.
Sorry guys, just not sure where else to ask these total noob questions. I can only read so much before I get to confused
Internals are just what is inside the high pressure fuel pump, you upgrade the internals or upgrade the entire pump but both essentially do the same thing. It just replaces the cyclinder inside the pump to create more pressure if needed.
IMO just buy the CP-E pump and bolt it on.
excellent. Thanks guys.
Is this what I should expect to pay? https://www.cp-e.com/products/hpfpum...hpfpump™
Yup and it's worth every penny, comes tested and ready to bolt on, also CP-E backs it up with a warranty.