MAZDAEDIT tuning software MZ3/MS3

[Orangevirus]

To clear up 300HP on the 2.5L

The 2.5L (from what I have seen, I have completely dissasembled my bock) is probably the strongest of the NA 3 engines. The connecting rods are almost exact in design and size as the DISI Mazdaspeed engine. The difference being only the Piston wrist pin size, and that the 2.5L is 1.25mm longer(hardly noticable). It is shorter than the 2.3L na (which has the longest weakest rods).

The cylinder walls are also thick, and the piston design is great and lightweight. The crank is dual counterweight/forged just like the Mazdaspeed 3, and the 2.5L has without a doubt the best flowing head of any of the engines. The intake ports are literally huge and stock ported quite well. Exhaust ports are similar to any of the engines, along with exhaust valve size. Just an intake, header, and tune raising the rev limiter to 7200 (safe on the 2.5L) has been shown to put out aroudn 185-190WHP. The 2.5L continues to make power straight to redline

[aZuMi]

To clear up 300HP on the 2.5L

The 2.5L (from what I have seen, I have completely dissasembled my bock) is probably the strongest of the NA 3 engines. The connecting rods are almost exact in design and size as the DISI Mazdaspeed engine. The difference being only the Piston wrist pin size, and that the 2.5L is 1.25mm longer(hardly noticable). It is shorter than the 2.3L na (which has the longest weakest rods).

The cylinder walls are also thick, and the piston design is great and lightweight. The crank is dual counterweight/forged just like the Mazdaspeed 3, and the 2.5L has without a doubt the best flowing head of any of the engines. The intake ports are literally huge and stock ported quite well. Exhaust ports are similar to any of the engines, along with exhaust valve size. Just an intake, header, and tune raising the rev limiter to 7200 (safe on the 2.5L) has been shown to put out aroudn 185-190WHP. The 2.5L continues to make power straight to redline

Out of curiousity, how much time/labour/money did you spend to be able to achieve this?

[Orangevirus]

Out of curiousity, how much time/labour/money did you spend to be able to achieve this?

about $2000 worth of parts, and self tuning. probably cost people a lot more if you can't self tune.

[alkemyst]

How much to just do the NA ~190WHP? a 7200RPM limiter would be way better, car seems to still have steam in it then it hits fuel shut off.

about $2000 worth of parts, and self tuning. probably cost people a lot more if you can't self tune.

Also I can get turbochargers for really cheap, A borg Warner S300SX that normally cost 700$+ will cost me a fraction of that price, which makes it cheaper for me. I also sell turbo's for great deals.

[Como]

So if there was say some sort of group buy to get this software and there was somebody competent locally to tune the NA engines with it, who would consider it?
Guinea pigs? Test mules?
I "might" consider it
~200+ crank hp on a 2.3 or 2.5L?
Sounds interesting

[Hyperion]

If you guys did some research you would find this http://www.epifansoft.com/mazdaEdit-...ns-prices.html

[Kiyomi]

How much to just do the NA ~190WHP? a 7200RPM limiter would be way better, car seems to still have steam in it then it hits fuel shut off.

the problem with going to higher revs is that your engine is gonna wear out that much faster, and youd have to make sure on a dyno to see where your car makes max hp. no point in raising the rev limiter if it doesnt free up more power. although i agree that 6k rpm limit is very low, i would suggest going only 10% above manufacturer limit with the stock block if this software turns into the next big thing with tuning the n/a mazda scene. which would be 6600 to keep maximum longevity of your engine. 7200rpm limiter is just asking for trouble with a stock 2.5l block, imo.

not saying that it shouldnt be done, or it cant be done. but the prediction of many blown engines will become a reality, and thats without messing with timing and fuel, open/closed loop, knock, etc.

just some food for thought.
Cosworth, "Standard connecting rods should be upgraded when power output levels surpass 220bhp or 7200rpm is exceeded for extended periods of time." <--talking about the 2.3l which already has 6500redline. 2.5l is sturdier, but this guideline should not be forgotten.

[Orangevirus]

With a tune, 7200 RPM on the 2.5L is relatively safe. The thing about the 2.5L is the Head flows amazingly well stock and continues to make power straight to redline. You can see, even with a stock tune it continues to make power even with only upping the RPM limiter on the stock tune. The stock tune is TUNED to 7000 RPM, where the hard limiter kicks (ignition). The 6000 RPM limiter is only the ecu closing the throttle-body.

However, above 7400 RPM is when the stock 2.5L connecting rod big end bores begin stretching out of round, and will eventually leak to spun bearing / rod knock.

A solid, safe Rev limiter on the 2.5L is 7000. 7200 is pushing it and above 7300 isn't recommend. above 7500 head work needs to be done to prevent Valve float.

190WHP is a strech for a 2.5L without pretty extensive mods (intake, header, a bit of exhaust porting, cams) 180WHP is doable with just a header.

[Orangevirus]

Also please take all that information with a grain of salt, as this is not my first hand account of information, rather what has been told to me and many others by another tuning shop who does tuning for mazda 3 race cars.

however there are a few people with 2.5L tunes above 7k without problems.

[Como]

Also raising rev limiter obviously doesn't wear engine out quicker. I doubt anyone is constantly bouncing off rev limiter all day long (unless racing).
With my 2.3 I can push it just about to 7k before limiter kicks in. I do this periodically. With any sort of intake, exhaust and/or header, YOURE going to get noticed quickly. Above 5k my car is getting loud. So I don't normally push it to that level. I don't need that kind of attention.

[CelestSpeed3]

If you are they type of person who wants to raise the redline you will be driving in that area of the powerband. RPM does kill motors early, the secondary forces on the crank are exponential with the increase in RPM. Everything has to be perfectly balanced but even then there are limits. But again if your building for a track car, engine bearings on your motor are just part of your maintenance program.

[Orangevirus]

You have to understand that each engine does have it's limitations. I can't say "well lets tune you to 7600RPM and you'll be fine just don't go that high" because there is no point. it isn't safe and you won't be fine.

However there are known RPM's that are safe with each engine, and the stock RPM's are cut way before the red zone.
Where your soft limiter kicks in is not your RPM limiter, it is the ecu closing the throttle-body.
Each engine has this soft limiter, and another hard limiter.
Past the hard limiter is where damage can take place. (although of course if you are low on oil or using crap oil spinning 7k then yeah that's going to cause damage)

[Kiyomi]

i can confirm that buying the software from orangevirus is legit and the reflash software works as far as i can see. you dont have to worry about if hes gonna rip you off, or the epifan site being sketchy. bought the software from OV, and the obd2 cable from tactrix recently, and all that was changed was the rev limiter and the speed limiter. not gonna screw around with anything else, yet. While driving, my current piggyback takes over fuel/ignition and its only tuned to 6250, so i continue to have an rpm range of 0-6250, for now. in neutral it shows that the rev limiter is now set at 7k as the piggyback doesnt take over control, unless 100% throttle in gear. Just wanted to say thanks to OV again for all my questions and for being patient before his official launch of his website/tuning services.

as always, there is a certain amount of risk involved with mods and tuning. use at own risk. and, u dont have to deal with dynotronics and their sketchiness, and you get the software.
big thanks to Hyperion for clearing a cel code for me earlier this evening and taking this vid.


lets play simulator 3000.

[Orangevirus]

Thank you for that Kiyomi!

For anyone who may be interested in a tune :
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/sh...60#post1169960

[G ~ MINI]

i can confirm that buying the software from orangevirus is legit and the reflash software works as far as i can see. you dont have to worry about if hes gonna rip you off, or the epifan site being sketchy. bought the software from OV, and the obd2 cable from tactrix recently, and all that was changed was the rev limiter and the speed limiter. not gonna screw around with anything else, yet. While driving, my current piggyback takes over fuel/ignition and its only tuned to 6250, so i continue to have an rpm range of 0-6250, for now. in neutral it shows that the rev limiter is now set at 7k as the piggyback doesnt take over control, unless 100% throttle in gear. Just wanted to say thanks to OV again for all my questions and for being patient before his official launch of his website/tuning services.

as always, there is a certain amount of risk involved with mods and tuning. use at own risk. and, u dont have to deal with dynotronics and their sketchiness, and you get the software.
big thanks to Hyperion for clearing a cel code for me earlier this evening and taking this vid.


lets play simulator 3000.

OV Tune Update:
I have OV tuned 2012 MZ3 2.0L and i do see and feel a difference in the car from stock factory tune to OV.
Winter i remapped car with factory stock tune....I dont need the extra wheel spin
Im also looking into updating the software to from lite version to be able to self adjust ecu and use live output maps

On a sad note...hopefully not forever... OV Tune is not selling accepting any new Mazda customers.
Past purchases will be supported. OV is concentrating all resources on Toyota Tundra/Tacoma

Does anyone know any local non turbo mazda tuners?