Newbie replacing Rotors for first time

[buckethead99]

Looking to replace my rotors for the first time. (Well I've had a garage do it in the past but I'm looking to do the work myself as I've read its pretty straight forward).

My front rotors (or maybe just one) have a bad wrap in them (steering wheel shakes violently under heavy breaking).

So i have couple questions I haven't been able to source the info on.

Should I (or is this a given) - bleed the brake lines when I replace the rotors? (or complete brake line flush?)

I'm planning to use Proforce Coated rotors - guaranteed not to Warp or have any rust years for the first 18 months - mine always seem to get covered in rust (or at least at the circumferance) pretty quickly and I hate the look. Local Automotive Warehouse sells them for $50 ea - anyone have any reviews or experience with Profrce coated rotors (I don't mind spending a bit more over OEM)?

And does anyone know of a thread with a "how to" ? THere are some around but the picteres are dead.

Thanks in advance.

[Jackal]

I think this is what you want.

Click on the link with pics that says HERE.

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=230891

[Cab0oze]

Brake flush isn't required. Unless you are going to the track I honestly wouldn't bother. I did it the first time I did a brake job on my old 3 because I figured "why not?". Well, reason why not is that my bleeder valves were seized inside the calipers and I ended up having to buy new calipers. Not cool. It isn't required, so like I said, unless you go to the track don't waste your time.

Note that rotors don' warp, they get uneven brake pad deposits that overtime builds up and acts like the metal were warped. These deposits can be removed.
Also, Guaranteed not to have rust for 18 months? Hard to believe. Metal rusts, it's a fact.

Lesson learned that I can share with you. Don't waste your time with little hammers, medium hammers or large hammers.
Get a big fncking sledgehammer. I broke 2 hammers on my first brake job, finished the job with a huge fireaxe that I had handy at the time. Second brake job I broke the fireaxe (sad day).

Most walkthroughs you see will specify BFH as a required tool - this stands for big fncking hammer. They're not joking. Not believing it is required will lead to hours of frustration on your part.

I think this is what you want.

Click on the link with pics that says HERE.

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=230891

hehe that is my link
If you do decide to bleed brakes, i have a walkthrough pdf'ed for that as well:
http://www.engsoc.org/~caboose/uploa...ojects/HowTos/

[buckethead99]

Thank you very much for your prompt responses!!

For the rust - I thought I would try the more expensive rotors just to see if I get more life out of them.

I have approx 145k on my 07 M3 - not sure if the break fluid has ever been flushed - Am I still OK?

AND thanks for the BKH explanation - otherwise i donubt I would have figured it out ....you really broke to hammers ? I didn't think I was possible to break a hammer (I did a couple years construction in the past)....are the calipers that rusted on typically? I Live in ONtario where we get three seasons anrust is a concern.

And I forgot to ask earlier .... I should probably rplace the pads at the same time - I'll go with OEM - but your saying my rotors a likely not warped at all and I should just need to replace my pads?

Thanks again

[Cab0oze]

If your rotors are shaking real bad you may be able to get them turned (i.e. resurfaced) when you get the new pads. Not sure how the cost of that compares to new rotors.
Don't waste money on fancy rotors. I made that mistake twice now... I got DBA T2 slotted rotors for the track this time around and they were a total waste of money.
Note that you can paint the rotors (well.. the hub part at least) yourself too if you do decide to just get your existing ones turned. I paint mine with tremclad once a year to keep them looking like new. See the black part in the picture below for reference. The face that contacts the wheel will rub off the paint anyway so this should be coated with anti-seize (the silver stuff in the picture, use it every time you swap wheels to keep them from rusting).


Brake fluid is fine unless you're noticing issues braking (e.g. squishy pedal). Its a closed system and the main source of problems is water absorption. When the brake fluid absorbs water and you do a lot of heavy braking (i.e. at the track) the water boils and creates voids in the lines. This leads to you pressing the brakes and nothing happens.

Yes, I really broke hammers and axes. Sometimes you run into a rotor that is just rusted on like crazy and nothing will get it off. When I broke my axe I went and bought a big sledgeahmmer and popped the damn thing off with one swing after wasting hours hitting/rotating/spraying with PB blaster/etc.

Calipers can get pretty rusty. Mine looked fine as I've always painted them, but the bleeder valve had seized inside the actual caliper body so when I tried turning it is just snapped in half.

[Jackal]

hehe that is my link
If you do decide to bleed brakes, i have a walkthrough pdf'ed for that as well:
http://www.engsoc.org/~caboose/uploa...ojects/HowTos/

Saw Caboose and thought it might be you. Hahaha!
Great that you saved that guy's write up and made that pdf.

[Cab0oze]

Saw Caboose and thought it might be you. Hahaha!
Great that you saved that guy's write up and made that pdf.

Yeah, I've saved every walkthrough I've ever used or needed just in case. Pictures make a world of difference and you never know when the image hosting sites will suddenly disappear.

[buckethead99]

Thanks again.
I would like to paint my rotors (at least the hub as you suggested) and the calipers as well - you suggested Tremclad? Anything specific and where to pick it up?

I was thinking of Puting blcok of wood between the caliper and hammer - just to avoid leaving massive dents in the caliper ! Did you try that technique?

How much are new calipers ?

ANd you still stick with OEM rotors now after your experience ? thanks

[Cab0oze]

Thanks again.
I would like to paint my rotors (at least the hub as you suggested) and the calipers as well - you suggested Tremclad? Anything specific and where to pick it up?

I was thinking of Puting blcok of wood between the caliper and hammer - just to avoid leaving massive dents in the caliper ! Did you try that technique?

How much are new calipers ?

ANd you still stick with OEM rotors now after your experience ? thanks

Yeah I'm a big fan of Tremclad due to the low cost, how durable it is and how easy it goes on. You can get it at canadian tire. I used Fire Red for the calipers and black for the hubs. If you want to paint the calipers fancy colors go to the paint section, there is tons of aerosol caliper paint too, just requires more effort to mask things off before spraying whereas with brush on you don't have to do that really.

Re: the wood block, I presume you're talking about the rotor and not the caliper. And the answer is yes, when I actually planned on saving the rotor.

New calipers are pricey, don't replace them unless you have to lol. I actually had mine rebuilt, but that is pretty expensive too.

No, I would just get whatever rotors are cheapest but still a reputable brand name. OEM brake stuff isn't made by mazda, it is made by a supplier and rebranded. For example, my calipers are clearly branded as ATe. I'm not sure who makes mazda's rotors, but rotors are all pretty much the same. Centric premium blanks are usually what people recommend. I'm not sure who makes mazda pads, but brake pads are a different story - different pad materials make a huge difference so don't want to risk getting one that isn't exactly what you want. I would recommend going with OEM pads, which is what you said you were doing, so good choice there.

[buckethead99]

Yeah I'm a big fan of Tremclad due to the low cost, how durable it is and how easy it goes on. You can get it at canadian tire. I used Fire Red for the calipers and black for the hubs. If you want to paint the calipers fancy colors go to the paint section, there is tons of aerosol caliper paint too, just requires more effort to mask things off before spraying whereas with brush on you don't have to do that really.

Re: the wood block, I presume you're talking about the rotor and not the caliper. And the answer is yes, when I actually planned on saving the rotor.

New calipers are pricey, don't replace them unless you have to lol. I actually had mine rebuilt, but that is pretty expensive too.

No, I would just get whatever rotors are cheapest but still a reputable brand name. OEM brake stuff isn't made by mazda, it is made by a supplier and rebranded. For example, my calipers are clearly branded as ATe. I'm not sure who makes mazda's rotors, but rotors are all pretty much the same. Centric premium blanks are usually what people recommend. I'm not sure who makes mazda pads, but brake pads are a different story - different pad materials make a huge difference so don't want to risk getting one that isn't exactly what you want. I would recommend going with OEM pads, which is what you said you were doing, so good choice there.

Oh - I guess I wasn't thinking staright - You were refering to the taking a hammer to the rotors to get them off - NOT the capilers!! I can see that - and I am expecting a ton of rust.

WOuld you recmommend and allighnment afterwards?

I see your point about painting vs aerosol ! Taping stuff off is a pain