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Thread: replacing front lower control arms and #engine mount

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    Default replacing front lower control arms and #engine mount

    Hello Everyone,

    A week or so ago I took my 2008 Mazda 3 for an oil change and spark plugs to the dealership and they wrote down that I needed to replace both front lower control arms and #engine mount.

    Price+labour of control arms inc. alignment = ~$800
    engine mount ~95 + labour

    I called canadiantire just to check prices and they told me they could do both control arms for $460 + $100 alignment.

    Is it ok to go there and have non mazda parts installed? I've done aftermarket pads and rotors only all else has always been genuine parts so wondering about these parts.
    Is it a good idea to get that #3 engine mount replaced at the same time?

    Thank you for your input,

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    Sr Member silverstarmazda's Avatar
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    Default Re: replacing front lower control arms and #engine mount

    get a reputable aftermarket brand such as moog and etc. (canadian tire/part source carries moog). anything like mevotech (local) have been know for faulty ball joints.

    50 shades of silver

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    Default Re: replacing front lower control arms and #engine mount

    was reading in another post that some aftermarket I could be looking at replacing again after three years, this would be the case for the moog brand control arms?

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    Default Re: replacing front lower control arms and #engine mount

    it all really comes down to how you drive and the environment they are subjected to. the rear bushing of the control arm is fluid filled which has a tendency to fail more often then a solid rubber bushings. its not out of the ordinary for fluid filled rubber components to fail on a mazda 3 often, control arm bushings has a pretty high rate of failure over the course of a few years along with the passenger motor mount. lowered cars will also subject the bushings to more stress.

    if you want to save some money, its not hard to do yourself if your confident in your mechanical skills. all that holds it in is 3 bolts and 1 nut on one side. there are walkthroughs online too. or you can see if you can find someone you know with a mechanical back ground to help you save. my driver control arm was around $95-$110 from part source (price varies due to sale), installed myself with the help of a friend, and alignment was done for $60.

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    Default Re: replacing front lower control arms and #engine mount

    they only mentioned the #3 engine mount which from what I understand is the passenger side mount. Should I be changing the other mounts at this same time? also is there just the one other mount or there are three in total?

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    Default Re: replacing front lower control arms and #engine mount

    Quote Originally Posted by physhy View Post
    they only mentioned the #3 engine mount which from what I understand is the passenger side mount. Should I be changing the other mounts at this same time? also is there just the one other mount or there are three in total?
    there are 3 mounts in total and #3 is the passenger motor mount (the fluid filled one). the other mounts are most likely fine since they are "solid" rubber mounts

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    Default Re: replacing front lower control arms and #engine mount

    got it

    I just replaced all four tires and rims because when I used my old rims and new tires the car was vibrating like crazy specially going over 80kmph. After replacing all new rims and tires much of the vibration was gone but I have been feeling it again lately not as bad but its there. I am thinking very likely the engine mount but could that by a symptom of bad control arms as well?

    After watching some youtube videos about control arms they were showing how the rotor would feel loose when trying to move it left and right when the tire was off. I did that to mine when replacing the tires and didn't see that movement, still possible its somehow connected to the control arms?

    Thank you for your quick responses

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    Default Re: replacing front lower control arms and #engine mount

    there is a possibility that a bad control arm can cause a slight vibration as the alignment is out of wack. the tire is traveling in a slight direction it doesnt want to go and the tread is "grinding" in another direction. i use to have the same slight vibration at 100kph and thought it was a balance issue but was too lazy to get it corrected. it was when i uninstalled the coilover is when it became very obvious. the control arm literally dropped the knuckle and everything to the ground (a good control arm will hold some torsional resistance and keep the knuckle supported). excessive tire wear on the inside edge of the effected corner.

    a bad passenger motor mount will give you a very sluggish feeling, excessive engine movement and in some cases a check engine light.

    as for pushing the tire/rotor left and right or up and down, thats to check for play (worn) in the tie rods and ball joints. however, if you push hard enough you might be able to see the control arm move out of place.

    since ive replaced the control arm and got an alignment, i have zero vibration

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