5W-20 or 0w-20

[Milan96]

2010 GS 2.5L spec' for 5w20. I heard that in 2011 they changed the oil recommendation to 0W20. I currently run pennzoil platinum 5w20, and was wondering if it's worth switching to a 0w20 before winter gets here. I know 0w20 flows easier in the cold but is it a better oil for my engine or should I just stick to 5w20? Anybody with a 2010 running 0w20?

[Canadianbacon]

If you don't need a oil change then its not necessarily at all just leave it. Next time use 0w-20 if you want. I have 2010 GT also use 5-20 synthetic in winter and 5w-30 in summer.

[ottoyu34]

I run 0W20 on a 2010. No problem whatsoever.

[Milan96]

Do you notice any difference with the lighter weight oil as opposed to 5w20?

[ottoyu34]

I didn't use the same brand/model and just change the weight. So I couldn't tell you the difference.

I went from Dino oil > OEM Synthetic > Amsoil XL 5W20 > Amsoil Signature Series 0W20.

Let's just say, I won't go back especially realising the difference in start-up in winter.

[Cab0oze]

If the price is the same/similar, go with the 0w-20. Same warm performance, better cold performance, and it certainly gets cold enough here in the winter to see the benefits.

[staax]

I believe the 2010s called for 5w20 since 0w20 wasn't really used at all when they came out.

I would run 0w20 in the winter to help with cold starts, and run 5w20 in the summer as it would be better withstanding the hotter temps.

It really is personal preference. You won't damage anything using either.

[Booter22]

I used 0w20 for years now in my 2010 2.0. last oil change I didn't have any and could only get the Castrol 5w20. so I used that. next oil change. ill go back to 0w20. but yes if you want use 0w20. might be better on cold starts, slight better fuel econ. but that fuel econ is half the reason in 2011 they switched to it @Milan96

[Cab0oze]

I would run 0w20 in the winter to help with cold starts, and run 5w20 in the summer as it would be better withstanding the hotter temps.

Part in bold is incorrect, they're identical at warmer temps. I seem to remember a colleague showing me a comparison chart (which I can't find right now) and the oils viscosities identical in every way until like -20C, where 0W20 outperforms. I'm reasonably sure that the only reason not to run 0w20 all the time would be price, since it is synthetic only and is thus probably more expensive, and because if it's not <-20C there is no benefits.

[Milan96]

The only thing making me think twice about switching form 5w20 to 0w20 is engine noise... I've been told that lighter weight oils will generally increase the noise of an engine (hence why some people switch to heavier oils in attempt to quiet down older engines). I notice that the MZR's, mine being the 2.5L, tend to already be very clatter-y (for lack of a better word), and especially in winter when put into gear sounds like a diesel... I wouldn't want those noises to be enhanced from a lighter oil, especially considering I already run synthetic 5w20.

[Booter22]

The only thing making me think twice about switching form 5w20 to 0w20 is engine noise... I've been told that lighter weight oils will generally increase the noise of an engine (hence why some people switch to heavier oils in attempt to quiet down older engines). I notice that the MZR's, mine being the 2.5L, tend to already be very clatter-y (for lack of a better word), and especially in winter when put into gear sounds like a diesel... I wouldn't want those noises to be enhanced from a lighter oil, especially considering I already run synthetic 5w20.

you might and I say might notice a difference. but I cant think Ive ever noticed more or less noise from recently going back to 5w20. if you have an an old high km engine it might make sense to go back to 5w20. but then again im not sure if that is true. but in truth even if it is a bit louder for a few mintues its winter time your in the car with the radio on you wont hear anything and by the time it warms up its the same 20 weight. so one way or the other your making it easier on cold starting with less thick oil at colder temps.

[Milan96]

Hmmm. I have about 154K on my engine, but it's been maintained religiously. I'll try out the 0w20 next oil change since the consensus seems to be there are zero drawbacks to it other than price, which is negligible since I'm already using synthetic

[sarujo]

Hmmm. I have about 154K on my engine, but it's been maintained religiously. I'll try out the 0w20 next oil change since the consensus seems to be there are zero drawbacks to it other than price, which is negligible since I'm already using synthetic

Honestly, unless you are living in Ottawa/North Bay etc and park your car outside in frigid -30C temps I would just stick with your Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 synthetic. You should be using a block heater in those temps anyways.

I am running the same in my 2010 2.0L MZR. I used to do 0W20 changes at the dealer, but that was only because of the Mazda pricing. Now that I am outside of warranty, I get all my service done with Jimmy and supply my own oil and filters - more convenient. I rarely if ever have seen 0W20 on sale, hence me sticking with the 5W20 PP.

If you want to get into an anal oil discussion (umm..yeah..no pun there! ), go over to BITOG and go wild, otherwise have a look at the datasheets for your oils and call it a day:

http://www.pennzoil.ca/wp-content/up...F-5-en-TDS.pdf

http://www.pennzoil.ca/wp-content/up...012-en-TDS.pdf

Pay attention to CCS and MRV. Yes, the 0W20 is more fluid at -30C and colder temps. Notice how the viscosity values at 40C and 100C are basically the same.

So as others have already stated, the only real difference between 0W20 and 5W20 would be cold temperature fluidity.

[Booter22]

Hmmm. I have about 154K on my engine, but it's been maintained religiously. I'll try out the 0w20 next oil change since the consensus seems to be there are zero drawbacks to it other than price, which is negligible since I'm already using synthetic

you could just go to the dealer for it. usually about $60 + hst I believe.

[zzz3]

Do you notice any difference with the lighter weight oil as opposed to 5w20?

The only thing making me think twice about switching form 5w20 to 0w20 is engine noise... I've been told that lighter weight oils will generally increase the noise of an engine (hence why some people switch to heavier oils in attempt to quiet down older engines). I notice that the MZR's, mine being the 2.5L, tend to already be very clatter-y (for lack of a better word), and especially in winter when put into gear sounds like a diesel... I wouldn't want those noises to be enhanced from a lighter oil, especially considering I already run synthetic 5w20.

You are overthinking this and confusing W for weight (the number after the letter indicates weight). To keep it simple, W=winter. 0W-20 will flow better for cold starts than 5 or 10W-20, but have the same viscosity when warmed up. Also all 0W oils are made from synthetic oil base stock (group 4 or 5) where as 5 and 10W is usually is a blend of dino oil (group 3 as an example) and is not a pure synthetic despite the marketing.

For synthetic oil changes, you won't find a better value anywhere else but the dealership for Mazda 0W-20. Even if you bought the oil and filter separately with a parts discount, it's still cheaper to go to the dealership when you factor in the cost of labour.

[Aitch]

What's a typical dealer oil change cost now using 0W-20? Because I get mine done with Jimmy and I think he's at least comparable, pretty sure he's not more expensive (haven't used the dealer since my first oil change). I believe he's using the Mazda OEM oil too.

[Flagrum_3]

You are overthinking this and confusing W for weight (the number after the letter indicates weight). To keep it simple, W=winter. 0W-20 will flow better for cold starts than 5 or 10W-20, but have the same viscosity when warmed up. Also all 0W oils are made from synthetic oil base stock (group 4 or 5) where as 5 and 10W is usually is a blend of dino oil (group 3 as an example) and is not a pure synthetic despite the marketing.

For synthetic oil changes, you won't find a better value anywhere else but the dealership for Mazda 0W-20. Even if you bought the oil and filter separately with a parts discount, it's still cheaper to go to the dealership when you factor in the cost of labour.

Great post! Grp 4/5 oils FTW.

I've been using German Castrol 0w30 exclusively since my warranty was up and I don't think you can find a better oil. This past summer, because I ran out of my GC supply and couldn't find it on sale, I decided to try the OEM 0w20. Well all of a sudden my engine started clicking and clacking like crazy, all kinds of noise! So I immediately went back to GC and use it year round...CT finally at it on sale and I stocked up good.

_3

[Milan96]

For synthetic oil changes, you won't find a better value anywhere else but the dealership for Mazda 0W-20. Even if you bought the oil and filter separately with a parts discount, it's still cheaper to go to the dealership when you factor in the cost of labour.

Based on the consensus im going with the 0w20. Found a place at the corner of Matheson and Kennedy in Mississauga that sold me 5 quarts of Mazda 0w20 and an OEM filter for $37 taxes in... Hard to beat. Cost of labour for me is a Saturday morning, and oil changes imo are kind of fun, so it's a win win especially at that price

[zzz3]

Based on the consensus im going with the 0w20. Found a place at the corner of Matheson and Kennedy in Mississauga that sold me 5 quarts of Mazda 0w20 and an OEM filter for $37 taxes in... Hard to beat. Cost of labour for me is a Saturday morning, and oil changes imo are kind of fun, so it's a win win especially at that price

What's the name of the place?

[Milan96]

OEM fleets

416-877-7586

450 Matheson Blvd E, Mississauga, ON L4Z 1P1

They're basically wholesalers for parts for Asian brands and BMW and Ford I think she told me when I went.

[Milan96]

Unit 45