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Thread: JL Audio Microsub

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    Default JL Audio Microsub

    Hello,

    I'm looking at adding a small sub to my 3 GT, and I have my mind set on the JL Audio Microsub, 8". This won't take much space, and they seem to have good reviews.

    My question is, should I go with the sub and separate amp (CP108LG-W3v3 box with the JLJX500/1D amp), or go with the Microsub+ (ACP108LG-W3v3) version that has an integrated amp? Conceptually, I think it's better to have them separate. If something breaks on the one with the amp, I'm out $600. Plus the impedance is strange, 0.25 Ω as opposed to 4 Ω for the regular one.

    Pricing is the same, power is similar 250W RMS (however the one with the amp has lower impedance).

    Many thanks, I would appreciate any feedback!

    I'll be using the PAC LOC that connects directly to the unit behind the glove box (made for Mazda specifically).
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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    Newbie LiviuTincu's Avatar
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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    That impedance is wrong value at 0.25 Ω ( actually Crutchfield has it for 0.4 Ω which is also wrong) . I think the sub is the same , it's just with amp or not . For practicality I see the amped one is easier to use , everything is in one box . $600 is close to my whole setup .

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    Quote Originally Posted by LiviuTincu View Post
    That impedance is wrong value at 0.25 Ω ( actually Crutchfield has it for 0.4 Ω which is also wrong) . I think the sub is the same , it's just with amp or not . For practicality I see the amped one is easier to use , everything is in one box . $600 is close to my whole setup .
    Thanks for the quick reply! I can't find any other slim sub with good reviews... but if you have better ideas let me know!

    In the specs, the subs have the almost the same code 8W3v3-0.40 vs 8W3v3-4, so the impedance different but the sub is the same-ish. Price-wise... the version with the amp is $539 at a local sponsor, if I go with the box + amp I'm at 350 + 200. Is there something better in this price range, to meet my requirements - small footprint, good quality, easy to install?

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    Half year ago or so I have got the Infinity Basslink for my wife's car , brand new (wires, knob, brackets..) , $120 on Kijiji .

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    Quote Originally Posted by Sebi View Post
    Thanks for the quick reply! I can't find any other slim sub with good reviews... but if you have better ideas let me know!

    In the specs, the subs have the almost the same code 8W3v3-0.40 vs 8W3v3-4, so the impedance different but the sub is the same-ish. Price-wise... the version with the amp is $539 at a local sponsor, if I go with the box + amp I'm at 350 + 200. Is there something better in this price range, to meet my requirements - small footprint, good quality, easy to install?
    @Sebi Where are you getting your info from? I suggest going straight to JL.ca for your specs and list prices.

    The microsub, not microsub+ has pretty good reviews also.


    _3
    Last edited by Flagrum_3; 11-22-2017 at 05:15 PM.

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    I would personally not put a 500W amp on that sub unless you're thinking of upgrading the sub later. Waste of money IMO just go with the JX250/1 which is perfect for this sub.

    also on sale at Audioheaven for black friday. Thinking of getting one myself for the 8" sub ill be putting in the truck.

    Also, you dont need a LOC with these amps since they have the high level inputs.

    Last edited by gabbygenier; 11-23-2017 at 10:19 AM.
    2004 mazda 3 GT Sedan Indigo Blue.

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    Quote Originally Posted by gabbygenier View Post
    I would personally not put a 500W amp on that sub unless you're thinking of upgrading the sub later. Waste of money IMO just go with the JX250/1 which is perfect for this sub.

    also on sale at Audioheaven for black friday. Thinking of getting one myself for the 8" sub ill be putting in the truck.

    Also, you dont need a LOC with these amps since they have the high level inputs.

    I had my JL amp wired to speaker level, it worked, but when I switched to line level was louder .

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

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    Member gabbygenier's Avatar
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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    Quote Originally Posted by LiviuTincu View Post
    I had my JL amp wired to speaker level, it worked, but when I switched to line level was louder .

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
    For sure it'll be louder. Not better quality though unless you spend money on a good Loc like cleansweep, 3sixty, etc

    Sent from my ASUS_Z012DC using Tapatalk

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    Quote Originally Posted by gabbygenier View Post
    For sure it'll be louder. Not better quality though unless you spend money on a good Loc like cleansweep, 3sixty, etc

    Sent from my ASUS_Z012DC using Tapatalk
    I haven't tried my Audio control LC2i, still sealed.


    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    I'm really curious to know how that works, but my amp won't accept more than 5v, should that be a problem?

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    Quote Originally Posted by Sebi View Post
    Hello,

    I'm looking at adding a small sub to my 3 GT, and I have my mind set on the JL Audio Microsub, 8". This won't take much space, and they seem to have good reviews.

    My question is, should I go with the sub and separate amp (CP108LG-W3v3 box with the JLJX500/1D amp), or go with the Microsub+ (ACP108LG-W3v3) version that has an integrated amp? Conceptually, I think it's better to have them separate. If something breaks on the one with the amp, I'm out $600. Plus the impedance is strange, 0.25 Ω as opposed to 4 Ω for the regular one.

    Pricing is the same, power is similar 250W RMS (however the one with the amp has lower impedance).

    Many thanks, I would appreciate any feedback!

    I'll be using the PAC LOC that connects directly to the unit behind the glove box (made for Mazda specifically).
    It's a Infinity Basslink brand new on Kijiji, $250, what do you think?

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

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    Member gabbygenier's Avatar
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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    Quote Originally Posted by LiviuTincu View Post
    I haven't tried my Audio control LC2i, still sealed.
    Havent heard of those but they seem like nice little units.

    Quote Originally Posted by LiviuTincu View Post
    I'm really curious to know how that works, but my amp won't accept more than 5v, should that be a problem?
    That is something i wouldn't test haha unless you're OK with blowing your amp and possibly your sub haha

    Quote Originally Posted by LiviuTincu View Post
    It's a Infinity Basslink brand new on Kijiji, $250, what do you think?
    Infinity make good audio products. Never heard one of these though

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    The Infinity Basslink is twice as deep, it's all metal and plastic; I'm looking for a slim sub and a "wood" sound. I changed my dash speakers to Infinity, I had an Infinity home theater setup, so it's a good brand, no doubt.

    The reason for getting the PAC LOC is that it plugs directly in the unit behind the glove box, so I don't need to take apart the dash and look for the front speaker wires.

    My question was more conceptual.. is it better to get the all-in-one unit (cleaner look, easy to setup by all non-standard components, so if something breaks I'm out of luck) or get the sub/box and an amp (more wires, messier install, but easier to upgrade/fix).

    The Auto Heaven JX250 amp is not the class-D flavour.. the updated one has a "D" in the code at the end. Still, good price!

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    I had the exact microsub in question in my Gen 2. Absolutely LOVED it. Great sound in a tiny package. In my humble opinion it really outperformed its size. It won't break any windows, but it was certainly enough to balance out the system and then some.

    I had a Kenwood XR 400-4 amplifier. I ran the front 2 channels stereo to a pair of JL C3-650 components and bridged the rear two to the sub. So the sub was running 200RMS, and it was great. My goal was a compact, efficient, stealthy system. The amp was installed under the front passenger seat. JL sub fit under the cargo cover in the hatch.

    For a while I used the PAC OEM-2 interface with the stock head unit to be a line out converter, though eventually I switched to an android auto head unit which felt like another improvement.

    Unfortunately I sold all my gear, mostly to members here, because I went with a brand new car when mine was written off instead of a used one. The new 3 had the Bose system and I decided I wasn't going to mess with it too much right off the bat.

    I was honestly sad to sell that sub. I would not hesitate to recommend it at all. In my opinion separates are the way to go in case you decide you want to change one component down the road, or if one components fails. If you value ultimate simplicity then get the 2-in-1 unit. If I recall correctly I had briefly looked at it when I got my new car and it has quick release connectors if you need to get it out of your trunk to maximize space.
    Last edited by studum; 11-24-2017 at 10:39 AM.

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    Great feedback, many thanks! Pricing on the "plus" version is pretty much the same as for the non-amplified sub and the JL JX250 amp.

    The Bose I have in my 3rd gen were lacking highs, so I changed the dash speakers (plus and play). The door speakers are not bad, but sound a bit stressed out and I prefer the sound of a sub in a wood box.


    Quote Originally Posted by studum View Post
    I had the exact microsub in question in my Gen 2. Absolutely LOVED it. Great sound in a tiny package. In my humble opinion it really outperformed its size. It won't break any windows, but it was certainly enough to balance out the system and then some.

    I had a Kenwood XR 400-4 amplifier. I ran the front 2 channels stereo to a pair of JL C3-650 components and bridged the rear two to the sub. So the sub was running 200RMS, and it was great. My goal was a compact, efficient, stealthy system. The amp was installed under the front passenger seat. JL sub fit under the cargo cover in the hatch.

    For a while I used the PAC OEM-2 interface with the stock head unit to be a line out converter, though eventually I switched to an android auto head unit which felt like another improvement.

    Unfortunately I sold all my gear, mostly to members here, because I went with a brand new car when mine was written off instead of a used one. The new 3 had the Bose system and I decided I wasn't going to mess with it too much right off the bat.

    I was honestly sad to sell that sub. I would not hesitate to recommend it at all. In my opinion separates are the way to go in case you decide you want to change one component down the road, or if one components fails. If you value ultimate simplicity then get the 2-in-1 unit. If I recall correctly I had briefly looked at it when I got my new car and it has quick release connectors if you need to get it out of your trunk to maximize space.

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    Default Re: JL Audio Microsub

    Quote Originally Posted by Sebi View Post
    The Infinity Basslink is twice as deep, it's all metal and plastic; I'm looking for a slim sub and a "wood" sound. I changed my dash speakers to Infinity, I had an Infinity home theater setup, so it's a good brand, no doubt.

    The reason for getting the PAC LOC is that it plugs directly in the unit behind the glove box, so I don't need to take apart the dash and look for the front speaker wires.

    My question was more conceptual.. is it better to get the all-in-one unit (cleaner look, easy to setup by all non-standard components, so if something breaks I'm out of luck) or get the sub/box and an amp (more wires, messier install, but easier to upgrade/fix).

    The Auto Heaven JX250 amp is not the class-D flavour.. the updated one has a "D" in the code at the end. Still, good price!
    The sound is good on Basslink, deep and clean. Usually the best sound is when you have separate amplifier and subwoofer , full size not slim. If the amp brakes in the enclosure you can still replace it and use the same sub. If you decide later to change the sub, it makes sense to have separate amplifier, bigger the better, it doesn't need to be class D. My amp is class AB with 600wrms, sub has 300wrms, no blowing anything.

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

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