Buying used 2008 M3 GT - AT light blinked - should I run or buy?.

[bez_ucha]

Hello,

I found a 2008 M3 GT with 180k in great shape in and out. The only issue... occurred during driving - the AT light came on for a few seconds (mainly when the car was warming up), car downshifted to 4 (kind of a hesitate) and then continued normally. Other than that the car drives very well, (not a single pop or noise from suspension - including dreaded stabilizer bar links noises). The price is good. My research points to input turbine sensor issue (which I can easily replace).

What do you suggest? Should I run or take a plunge?

Thanks a lot,

Bez.

[Rezurexun]

Hmmm, are you sure it's not the TCM going bye-bye? I had to get mine rebuilt recently on my 2006 MZ3s GT. She runs beautifully now. Cost me a pretty penny but this car is worth it. How much are you getting the car for if you don't mind me asking?

[Noisy Crow]

Put a scanner on it and pull the codes. Best to do that while the light is on or right after -- I'm not sure how long stored codes are kept.

Otherwise.... factor in the cost replacing the transmission into what you are willing to pay. Fix could be simple... or could be $$$$$$$$$.

[bez_ucha]

Thanks to everyone who responded. I ended up buying it - although I did not pull the codes - no scanner on hand - hopefully it will be OK. I negotiated down the prices a little bit, however because it was intermittent and the AT light was not on all the time, it was tough to negotiate. And in addition - I too thought about the TCM (as Rezurexun pointed out) and before scrapping my old Mazda 3 (had an accident a week ago) I pulled ... the TCM, turbine sensor (it was actually new), VSS sensor, ECU and other bits and pieces. I wished I had an engine hoist - I would pull out the transmission too. Now that I have it at home - the only minor pet peeve is the under shield cover - I will start another thread for it - but essentially the back of it is hanging and there is no visible place to attach it. Maybe something is missing.

[jeff7670]

Buy a new engine shield from Rockauto, they are extremely cheap. I think you made the right choice buying it. Even if it cost you $1500 to repair that car should have at least 100k of reliable and cheap transportation.

[Kiewan]

Can you zip tie whats left of the engine shield?

[bez_ucha]

Yes, that is what I have done - zip ties. I am planning to get doorman shield on amazon - pretty good price and reviews. I am still not sure if I am missing something towards the back of the vehicle - or the original shield is only attached to side shields (ones in the wheel wells) and the back portion integrity (not sagging) is maintained by some kind of support or stiffener). I need to get underneath it and take pictures I suppose.

[Rezurexun]

hmmm...i think this is the route you should take

https://corksport.com/corksport-04-0...skidplate.html

if you need help on random issues, you should start a thread specifically for your car. i think that would be very beneficial as you would have all the info you need in one thread instead of multiple threads. (y)

[Kiewan]

hmmm...i think this is the route you should take

https://corksport.com/corksport-04-0...skidplate.html

if you need help on random issues, you should start a thread specifically for your car. i think that would be very beneficial as you would have all the info you need in one thread instead of multiple threads. (y)

Lol I have had that on my car for 3 years, it is by far the best purchase I have made given all my winter driving up north.
I wouldn't recommend it anymore as it gets pricey - bad USD, S&H & customs.

Value wise, id get a new plastic shield off of Rockauto, or get creative with zip ties as those shields always get trashed in the snow.