in the M3F thread, PhilGood makes reference to using a relay...Originally posted by xg3
update...
under the dash the fuse box, 7.5amp FUSE IS NOT GOING TO CUT IT FOR THE HIDS now hook up to these lights. one of mine blew.. and i replaced them with 20 amps fuse.(my old car used 20amps for same hid kits and was fine for 2 years) .
as referenced in here
\"The best relays to use in setting up a headlamp circuit have dual 87 terminals. That lets you use one 87 terminal to power the left filament, and the other 87 terminal to power the right filament in whatever circuit you\'re building (low beam, high beam, fog lamp, etc.).\"
Canadian Tire sells these exact relays for $5.99 ...check the automotive fuse section.
As of now, i have tapped my hid + wire to the signal wire and has been succesful in bypassing the original DRL setting (hence no more flickering). However, having read over some threads, would it be safe to use this DRL bypass wiring with just low-voltage tapins (e.g. no relays, no switch)? Will i blow a fuse?![]()
Heres a link to what i followed (credits to Devin)
yes you will blow a fuse. the turn signal is fused at 7.5A and the stock headlights are fused at 15A.Originally posted by triplezoom
As of now, i have tapped my hid + wire to the signal wire and has been succesful in bypassing the original DRL setting (hence no more flickering). However, having read over some threads, would it be safe to use this DRL bypass wiring with just low-voltage tapins (e.g. no relays, no switch)? Will i blow a fuse?![]()
Heres a link to what i followed (credits to Devin)
a better thing to do would be to use the wire from the tap-in and use that as the switch input on a headlight relay (can be had from Canadian Tire for $5.99 with a dual output...i.e. one tap-in to trigger the relay and one relay for both headlights.
thanks Devinnow i know which wire i need to tap into
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So what your saying is instead of directly tapping the signal wire to the hid, i should first tap the signal wire to an input relay which willthen \"dual tap out\" (lol) to the hid lights. So does that mean i only need to do it for one side only and it will power up both the left and right hids?Originally posted by MajesticBlueN
yes you will blow a fuse. the turn signal is fused at 7.5A and the stock headlights are fused at 15A.Originally posted by triplezoom
As of now, i have tapped my hid + wire to the signal wire and has been succesful in bypassing the original DRL setting (hence no more flickering). However, having read over some threads, would it be safe to use this DRL bypass wiring with just low-voltage tapins (e.g. no relays, no switch)? Will i blow a fuse?![]()
Heres a link to what i followed (credits to Devin)
a better thing to do would be to use the wire from the tap-in and use that as the switch input on a headlight relay (can be had from Canadian Tire for $5.99 with a dual output...i.e. one tap-in to trigger the relay and one relay for both headlights.
there\'s more wires involved with the relay.Originally posted by triplezoom
So what your saying is instead of directly tapping the signal wire to the hid, i should first tap the signal wire to an input relay which willthen \"dual tap out\" (lol) to the hid lights. So does that mean i only need to do it for one side only and it will power up both the left and right hids?
one fused (20A should be good) 12V input wired to the battery, one ground wire (plugged into the OEM headlight harness negative), the switch wire (which is your current tapped signal wire), and the wires going to the HID positive.
with the \"dual output\" relay, you only need your current tap on that one side to power up both the left and right HIDs.
with a single output relay, you need a relay for both sides. i\'ve seen the single output \"automotive\" relays at radioshack for $4.99. the dual output i\'ve seen at Canadian Tire for $5.99.
So is it kinda like the diagram in my attachment? where the switch is the signal wire? sry kinda newbish to this relaying wiring drl stuff.
yup, 86 is the wire that was tapped from the signal wire.Originally posted by triplezoom
So is it kinda like the diagram in my attachment? where the switch is the signal wire? sry kinda newbish to this relaying wiring drl stuff.
85 is the OEM headlight harness -ve
you also don\'t need a 15A fuse on the 87 to HID +ve since the 30A fuse on the \"30\" wire takes care of that.
So, what does the \"30\" slot do in the relay??
Never mind my quesiton, I don\'t know what I\'m askingarc
more info hereOriginally posted by chaser
So, what does the \"30\" slot do in the relay??
Never mind my quesiton, I don\'t know what I\'m askingarc
MajesticBlueN, thanks for the xtra info![]()
If I follow this diagram, where is a good place to ground the ballasts? Provided that 86 from the relay is grounded to the stock headlight connector (black wire). Or can I ground 86 to elsewhere, leaving the stock headlight connector for ballast grounding? Thx
no problemOriginally posted by chaser
MajesticBlueN, thanks for the xtra info![]()
If I follow this diagram, where is a good place to ground the ballasts? Provided that 86 from the relay is grounded to the stock headlight connector (black wire). Or can I ground 86 to elsewhere, leaving the stock headlight connector for ballast grounding? Thx
more info can be found here - Credit: Daniel Stern Lighting
ground the ballasts to somewhere on the body of the car. on the driver\'s side you can use the battery ground point. on the passenger\'s side, there should be a chassis bolt close by. you\'ll need to make a wire with a female connector on one end and a ring terminal on the other end.
Thx Maj and chaser, it all makes sense now! I can find all the materials at crappy tire/radio shack right?![]()
MBN rocks!!![]()
For the 3 groundings (2 from the ballasts, 1 from the relay (85)), does it matter which grounding point they connect to? Can I ground the ballasts with the included male connector to the stock headlight holder and ground the relay to the battery\'s -ve terminal or any body grounding point? If I can do it this way, I can save myself some time and $ to make the grounding wires. THX!!
you can give it a try, i don\'t see why it wouldn\'t work. let us know how it goesOriginally posted by chaser
MBN rocks!!![]()
For the 3 groundings (2 from the ballasts, 1 from the relay (85)), does it matter which grounding point they connect to? Can I ground the ballasts with the included male connector to the stock headlight holder and ground the relay to the battery\'s -ve terminal or any body grounding point? If I can do it this way, I can save myself some time and $ to make the grounding wires. THX!!![]()
I\'m looking for 12 or 14 gauge wire that is good for at least 105C (degree). I tried a Cantire store in Markham and some electronic store but couldn\'t find any. Anyone has any idea?
wal-mart ...check the car audio section. it\'ll be in a container with a black backing and a round plastic holder. it has a tab at the back so you can pull the wire out to your desired length easily.Originally posted by chaser
I\'m looking for 12 or 14 gauge wire that is good for at least 105C (degree). I tried a Cantire store in Markham and some electronic store but couldn\'t find any. Anyone has any idea?
i think it\'s around $3-6 (can\'t remember) and the length gets less the lower the gauge of the wire. but you get at least 10 metres of both.
Finally got the HID installed last night, using the method/wiring diagram outlined above. I turned on the parking lights to test the HIDs and they worked fine. Today I drove to office with the HIDs turned on. When I got to the office and turned off the HIDs (parking lights), I realized the HIDs were still on. Even I took out the key, they still stayed on. I didn\'t have time to troubleshoot but took out the fuse between the relay and battery. What has gone wrong?!The only thing I can think of now is relay failure. Last night I could turn it on/off without problem. Any other idea?
the relay ground wire...is it hooked into the OEM harness -ve? or is it grounded to the chassis?Originally posted by chaser
Finally got the HID installed last night, using the method/wiring diagram outlined above. I turned on the parking lights to test the HIDs and they worked fine. Today I drove to office with the HIDs turned on. When I got to the office and turned off the HIDs (parking lights), I realized the HIDs were still on. Even I took out the key, they still stayed on. I didn\'t have time to troubleshoot but took out the fuse between the relay and battery. What has gone wrong?!The only thing I can think of now is relay failure. Last night I could turn it on/off without problem. Any other idea?
were your parking lights still on after you turned the switch to off?
The ground from the relay (85) I grounded it to the chassis. Yes, the parking lights were off when I switched them off.Originally posted by MajesticBlueN
the relay ground wire...is it hooked into the OEM harness -ve? or is it grounded to the chassis?Originally posted by chaser
Finally got the HID installed last night, using the method/wiring diagram outlined above. I turned on the parking lights to test the HIDs and they worked fine. Today I drove to office with the HIDs turned on. When I got to the office and turned off the HIDs (parking lights), I realized the HIDs were still on. Even I took out the key, they still stayed on. I didn\'t have time to troubleshoot but took out the fuse between the relay and battery. What has gone wrong?!The only thing I can think of now is relay failure. Last night I could turn it on/off without problem. Any other idea?
were your parking lights still on after you turned the switch to off?
do you have one relay controlling both HID bulbs (the one from CanTire that has a dual 87 output)? or one relay per side?Originally posted by chaser
The ground from the relay (85) I grounded it to the chassis. Yes, the parking lights were off when I switched them off.
check the tap connection to the parking light wire. if that is good, try hooking the 85 wire to the OEM headlight harness -ve and ground the HID bulb to the chassis.
for some reason, the relay isn\'t switching off....it could be the relay, or it could be because the lights are ground-switched.
I\'ve the dual 87 relay from CanTire. I grounded the ballasts to the stock headlights\' -ve slots. That\'s what I\'m thinking too - for some reason the relay doesn\'t switched off.Originally posted by MajesticBlueN
do you have one relay controlling both HID bulbs (the one from CanTire that has a dual 87 output)? or one relay per side?
check the tap connection to the parking light wire. if that is good, try hooking the 85 wire to the OEM headlight harness -ve and ground the HID bulb to the chassis.
for some reason, the relay isn\'t switching off....it could be the relay, or it could be because the lights are ground-switched.
Just went to pop up the hood and put back the fuse. The HIDs went on (switch is off). Then I gave the fuse a few taps. Guess what, the HIDs went off! So, now I\'m thinking, does the position/placement of the relay matter?? I put the relay \"horizontally\" (the connectors pointing horizontally, not vertically)in front of the battery box.
Looks like the problem is caused by 85 and 86 or the relay. Will look at the connections after work.
Update ...
After I gave the relay a few taps in the afternoon, the HIDs turn on/off when I turn on/off the parking signals ... weridarc Didn\'t have problem throughout the night.
Is that mean our headlight circuit is NOT a \"Ground-switched\" one?
i guess so.Originally posted by chaser
Update ...
After I gave the relay a few taps in the afternoon, the HIDs turn on/off when I turn on/off the parking signals ... weridarc Didn\'t have problem throughout the night.
Is that mean our headlight circuit is NOT a \"Ground-switched\" one?
good stuff with the install![]()