Do it. Even the quick jack is world's better than jacks/jack stands. My lift was expensive to buy/install in the end I'm somewhere around $6000-7000 out of pocket to get things setup when you count the lift itself (around 4-4.5 grand shipped), concrete work, tools to install that I didn't already have, fluids, custom hydraulic lines to position the console where I wanted it, air feed with dedicated filter/regulator/lubricator, etc.
I'd do it again though, although probably not a Bendpak given how much of a PITA it was to deal with them and how long it was delayed. The lift is just so incredibly useful and makes working on vehicles so much better. The other option out there is a maxjax that would be cheaper and give you similar lift height to what I have. I had to do concrete work regardless because my builder screwed up and saw cut my slab right where I planned for the posts to go...so at that point I decided I would do a flush mount lift so it was never in the way. I can still squeeze two vehicles in my garage which would never happen with a 2 post installed.
LOL I didn't even catch that...I thought you were looking at the timestamp in the video and saw how many hours we spent futzing around with this god forsaken car.
- 2021 Porsche Macan GTS -
- 2016 Lexus NX200t F Sport -
- 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Black Mica - SOLD -
Polish_Eagle (01-04-2018),shift8 (01-04-2018)
So all this talk in the part out thread for the MS3 is making me want to part out the MS6 I just inherited.
I just want the longblock as it slipped timing and I have parts to do a stock engine rebuild.
I wanted to gauge interest to see if anyone wants anything and can help with the part out if not I will do it myself. If you help you can keep some parts to sell.
The quarter panels are rusted like most mazdaspeed6's but the rest of the car is in good condition.
If I wanted to make the car good again it needs rust repair + rebuilding the engine doesn't make sense considering the value of the car @ 280k
JAVARA10 (01-26-2018)
Did that group valve cleaning in the fall ever happen?
I’d like to do mine still. In spring I guess as my car is parked in my garage for now.
@pwdunmore
How’s the interior on that ms6 you’re considering parting out? My drivers seat has a huge cut/Rip in it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nope, never got to it.
shift8 (01-28-2018)
I've decided if my car doesn't sell in the next little bit that I'm going to go full stupid and just have the engine rebuilt, so I'll deal with valve cleaning then...
2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3, CWP
Forged internals + GTX2871r
// Build thread // Instagram: @sleepy.ms3
The whole interior is in good condition. No rips or major scratches. I was hoping to sell all the seats as a set.
I don't have the space to store it for long, my girlfriend will get annoyed with a MS6 interior in our condo.
If you are willing to take them all I would give you a break on the pricing.
Any funds recovered on this MS6's body part out are going rebuild the engine so I have a spare rebuilt block which will go to me or whoever wants to buy it if they blow their's up.
Trans and diff are up for grabs but if no one wants them I will keep it in the car and scrap it, as I have a spare diff already and my trans is good with less kms.
MS6 is on kijiji for part out FYI.
If anyone wants anything let me know, discounts for forum members.
shift8 (01-30-2018)
I've been just doing a bunch of clean up to the car, and one of the issues I've had is around low voltage through everything. I generally think it's a grounding issue, and I'll be doing some more things here soon to clean all of that up.
However, when I was at a Mazda dealership recently to have some of this diagnosed (when I couldn't solve the issues after the car sat in my father-in-laws garage for too long), on his laptop he had some software that showed line graphs of the various voltages for the sensors in the car.
It seems like something that would be incredibly handy, but I have absolutely no idea what software it might have been. Could have been Mazda dealer/mechanic specific software, but it'd be nice to find something that would show me the voltage outputs across the various sensors for debugging purposes.
Anyone know of something like this?
ricola (02-01-2018)
Mazda VCM2 with their IDS software. I have a high quality clone that I've been using for a while and it definitely is a helpful unit to have.
2011 MAZDASPEED3 Hypnotic Tuned - Rob
CPE HPFP - CPE Catted Downpipe - CPE Catback Exhaust - 3" ETS TMIC - Cobb RMM - AEM Boost Gauge & Vent Pod - CANBus Triple - Corksport BPV - Corksport hood strut - Corksport RSB - Corksport Short Shifter - HTP 3.5" Intake - Damond TMM - Damond Vented CC - Vented Oil Cap - Tokay v2 Seals - GTX3067R - Damond PCV Plate - Built Engine (Manley Rods, 88mm Supertech 4032 Piston) -
shift8 (02-02-2018)
shift8 (02-02-2018)
Ok so I'm in the process of starting an engine build (pending), with the purposes of moving towards track car/occasional driver (I have 2 daily cars for wife and I).
Likely going K1 rods and Wiseco pistons (9.5:1 compression, no change there from stock). I'm targeting OTA so being careful of what PIPs I'm taking on. Purpose of build is for reliability, fix cyl 3 compression issues, and will effectively "detune" what the engine is capable of. Target under 300 hp.
Part of the build is considering what to do about the clutch and flywheel. Is going to a lighter flywheel worth it? What do I have to worry about with on the MS3 platform when I do that? Does shifting get weird? I'll likely be driving to the track for the first season before I flip over to trailering in a year or two.
Any other tips around engine builds, things to worry about now, parts to swap now?
As I said, this isn't a max HP approach, but rather a consistent high RPM in a track setting approach. OTA is the current target so changes need to be carefully thought here.
Depending on condition of my k04 I may run that a bit longer, and just worry about how I tune it to keep temps to a reasonable value as much as possible.
Eventually I may consider the Damond Ford intake swap (better air distribution) and better exhaust manifold to get the hot air away from the engine faster. Those require PIPs so will be (maybe) done after a couple seasons of running and seeing where I land. Based on research I believe a lot of the cyl 3 issues has to do with uneven air distribution at the intake and exhaust. Some have said the balance shaft could play a part. Plan to do BSD and balance everything else.
Was originally going to try and sell the MS3, but between the low value here, it being a paid off car for several years, enjoying the platform, and the cost of Miatas and the like right now, figured I'd just go the forged internal approach, for better or worse.
Experience and info welcome
Who do I keep spotting in waterloo with the black gen2 white steelies red mudflaps and a Cobb sticker on front bumper ?
I see stock exhaust tips but your car sounds so good and I want to know the setup
I would go for some 4032 alloy pistons instead of the 2618. http://www.speedperf6rmanc3.com/prod...-mzr-disi.html
They are can take well above the power level you plan to be at and they will wear a lot better. With upgraded rods and pistons you can go with stock everything else minus the balance shaft and be well in the safe zone. I was planning to do a similar build that would be good for around 450hp once I get the block out of the MS6 I am parting out.
Upgraded 4032 Pistons + Upgraded Rods + Stock bearings + Stock bolts
I would get a South Bend Clutch. My Cp-e Stage 1 is very touchy and will be swapped out once it's done.
A turbo will make the build complete but add cost. At 300hp the K04 is a flamthrower and is gonna wear out sooner than a BNR S2 or S3.
Manifolds are not needed and are expensive but they will help with the better AFR's per cylinder... not gonna deny that. I would spend the money on the intake manifold before the exhaust. Do not get a cheap exhaust manifold... save up for a good one. Cheap ones crack over time... and you pay more over time lol... @shift8 lots of edits
Last edited by pwdunmore; 02-09-2018 at 11:36 AM.
shift8 (02-09-2018)
Thanks for the info. We weren't ordering pistons until after the block was sent to the machine shop so we knew if we needed 87.5mm or 88mm, so I still have time to change. I'm not tied to any particular brand.
I think we're going to replace the bearings anyways since we're already there. A bit of future proofing in case what I run the car in requires a bit more tune.
Turbo I'm hoping to not need to replace (especially as it'll cost PIPs and be another $1000...). Manifolds we'll see about after I do some runs and get some temp data. That's not an immediate need.
Thanks for the tip on the clutch. I'll do some more looking around. I have seen Southbend mentioned several times in various forums so seems worth a look.