IM so $*@# mad right now

[Lmmorden]

Just got better

[geobur]

This all sounds very familiar @<a href="http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/member.php?u=20029" target="_blank">geobur</a>.

Sometimes even the bolt trick won't work.

yup just went through this earlier this summer with @peterm15

the rotors on my 2008 GT sedan were seized on like crazy, we tried slamming it with a sledge/maul not even a budge, ended up hitting one of my posts so we had to tap that using a tap and die set to try and get the thread fixed...then gave up for a week...spent a week applying penetrating oil like pb blaster every other day in hopes it would loosen it...so we tried the weekend after and no dice...tried the bolt method and still no dice...(however that being said I don't think we were doing the bolt method quite correctly)

try this


But I ended up going to Jimmy.

[DarkKilla]

I had serious issues getting my rotors off as well by banging on them from the front and the center, it was like they were welded on. What worked was popping them from the inside-outwards. Find bolts and nuts from the hardware store and thread them through the caliper mounting bracket holes, tighten to apply pressure from the bolt on to the back of the rotor, rotate the rotor and do it all over again all the way around, you will hear cracks from the rust breaking, eventually the rotor will pop off. Cover your studs with old lugnut bolts if your using a sledge to make sure not to damage them.

[stock3]

Don't let this discourage you from DIYing. Living in Ontatio, rusted in stuff is part of any automotive work and you either learn how to deal with it or let others do the work and pay for it handsomely.

I did my fair share of brake jobs and over the years have learned to lube all contact points or use anti seize. If you think ahead and put anti seize on the hub and rotor hats, the next brake job will be child's play. The rotors on my cars come off by a light tap either by hand or a soft mallet.

If you didn't do that, you can still apply some lube to the back of the rotors without removing them. Get some lube in a spray bottle and a straw and spray it where the studs come through the rotor. There is usually a small opening there to allow the lube to get bihind, make sure you spray through all five holes. I did that when the car was brand new, and repeated whenever the wheels were off and the rotors never rusted in.

[Ps3alltheway]

Don't let this discourage you from DIYing. Living in Ontatio, rusted in stuff is part of any automotive work and you either learn how to deal with it or let others do the work and pay for it handsomely.

I did my fair share of brake jobs and over the years have learned to lube all contact points or use anti seize. If you think ahead and put anti seize on the hub and rotor hats, the next brake job will be child's play. The rotors on my cars come off by a light tap either by hand or a soft mallet.

If you didn't do that, you can still apply some lube to the back of the rotors without removing them. Get some lube in a spray bottle and a straw and spray it where the studs come through the rotor. There is usually a small opening there to allow the lube to get bihind, make sure you spray through all five holes. I did that when the car was brand new, and repeated whenever the wheels were off and the rotors never rusted in.

thx for the tip! when I will change my tires I will put lube there and every year after winter I will get the rotors off put some anti seize and put them back on, also clean and lub the sliding pins.

Anyways just to give you guys an update. I ended up paying 590 $ for a knuckle replacement, one caliper (was leaking apparently), finish the brake job on passenger side and rear + oil change. So I don't find it THAT bad considering all the job that was done.
So In total I paid 420 $ for 4 rotors,pads,sliding pins and brake cleaner + 590 $ . 1010 $ job for brakes and a oil change haha

[Reddie1337]

thx for the tip! when I will change my tires I will put lube there and every year after winter I will get the rotors off put some anti seize and put them back on, also clean and lub the sliding pins.

Anyways just to give you guys an update. I ended up paying 590 $ for a knuckle replacement, one caliper (was leaking apparently), finish the brake job on passenger side and rear + oil change. So I don't find it THAT bad considering all the job that was done.
So In total I paid 420 $ for 4 rotors,pads,sliding pins and brake cleaner + 590 $ . 1010 $ job for brakes and a oil change haha

Ouch, but you did also get a caliper done as well. I normally like to do them in pairs (uneven stopping power from an older, tighter one compared to new and easy sliding)

But at least it's all fixed.

[roachkillah]

i did exactly what @geobur has on that video
it worked as advertised.

[Ps3alltheway]

Ouch, but you did also get a caliper done as well. I normally like to do them in pairs (uneven stopping power from an older, tighter one compared to new and easy sliding)

But at least it's all fixed.

thats what I thought but I talked to a few guys and they told me not to change them in pairs, it's recommended but useless because the old galiper can even outlast the new one, basicly they told me why repair when it's not broken

[zoomzoomtech]

I take those front factory rotors off with my 3 lb hammer in 5 mins a side.... Doesn't matter how seized they are... Hit the rotor like man...and it literally breaks away from the hub portion of the rotor then hit down like a man and break the hub portion in two.... My record is 5 total hits to remove one of those... Lol not to be mean or anything but sometimes some things are just done better by the professionals...lol

[zoomzoomtech]

[Reddie1337]

My favourite thing to do

One guy in my shop missed the one time and snapped the calliper mounting hole clean off. That's why we hit from the front now.

[fatcowxlive]

Goddamn. Although it didn't work out at all for you, kudos for attempting. Personally I would never trust myself with something as important as brakes lol

[bubba1983]

i wonder what most peoples definition of hitting "hard" would be...hmmm....
i sure know what my definition of "hard" would be.....

[dentinger]

We tell other guys in the shop to "take their ****ing purse off and hit it harder"

I've destroyed many rotors like the picture posted above.

[brucewayne]

wow so you guys just break it? lol im excellent at breaking things... can't wait to try this in the spring.

[staax]

Jesus Lol I'm not looking forward to the brakes on my Mazda.

I absolutely hate the jobs that should be simple but turn out to be a huge PITA.

I would rather swap the engine in my Dakota again than have to do brake lines on my old beater Corolla.

[js593]

Every time you remove a wheel, always make sure there is a little wiggle room for the rotor. Always done this to all my cars and never had to break anything. Rotors on my 2011 are being replaced in spring, along with a caliper paint job. While i'm in there, ill be applying a very thin layer of antiseize where the rotor sits on the hub. this will prevent future issues.

[lcianf01]

To remove my rotors on my 2005 Mazda 3, I used a jack-hammer (same one to break our concrete floor) to get them off.

[mazdaman007]

I bought this but then I'm running four cars and do all my own brakes so for me it was a worthwhile investment. Rotor comes off in less than 30 seconds with no fuss.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1