Clutch Slipping

[bRANDO]

72000, Master Tech at Westowne thinks my clutch is slipping.

The physical problems that led me to bringing it in are :

Shifting from 1st to 2nd, no power but increased rpm, followed by a drop in rpm (while still on the accelerator) then power increses. The same is true from 2nd - 3rd. The best description i have is it feels like someone who is learning to drive a stick, and their riding the clutch. Any other ideas? Were talkin close to if not over a 1k$.

[Wild Weasel]

Your description certainly sounds like a clutch issue.

[bRANDO]

They are concluding that my clutch is the issue. 1100 to replace taxes in..

[Wild Weasel]

How old is your car? Are you the only one that drives it?

[Unoriginalusername]

How old is your car? Are you the only one that drives it?

x2... considered an aftermarket setup? might be less pricey and be stronger

[Sean80]

+1! get the sport clutch and fly wheel!!!! woooooo


Is 72,000 your km's? Because that is early for a new clutch!!! We have a 99 protege with 240,000 km's on the original clutch. If someone other than you is driving the car, I'd make sure they aren't riding the clutch.

[bubba1983]

that is oddly way premature for a clutch to go....in general terms, the clutch should outlast the life of the car for which time that you own it....

[Kevin@nextmod]

Just talk to one of our sponsors on here and get exedy clutches. Might as well get a light flywheel while you're at it. :)

[MAZDA Kitten]

Isnt that covered by warranty to like 100,000 or something

[bRANDO]

i am the only driver. car is 2 years and 2 weeks old. Alot of Km's.. but its not my first 5 speed, so its not like i learned to drive stick on it. Clutch on our cars has 1 year 20,000 bullshit warranty. Im not going to repair it. Its a lease, its going back and im upgrading. BIZ... call me.

[chinsterr]

Im not going to repair it. Its a lease, its going back and im upgrading. BIZ... call me.

MazdaSpeed6 !!!!!!!!

[bRANDO]

MazdaSpeed6 !!!!!!!!

3!

[bRANDO]

by BS.. i meant i would hope they would stand behind a clutch a little better than 1 year. wear and tear i know... but man.

What i dont understand, is why the clutch would skip when not engaged at all. Im not a mechanic, but if im in 3rd,4th,5th whatever gear, and at low rpm's (2-3k) and accelerate there use to be a slow acceleration then the powerband kicks and we go. But now, (clutch not in) if i do the same the rpm's scream with lil/no power until the rpm's drop (while still accelerating) then the power increases.

???????

[Wild Weasel]

The fact is, bad driving can wear through a clutch easily within a year or so. You can't expect them to account for that.

I think though that wearing out, and being defective are two very different things. If they investigate and find something wrong with it, then I think they should cover it. If it's simply worn through, then I don't see why they would.

Of course, until someone looks at it and determines what's up... there's just not much more that can be said about this.

What you're describing is that the clutch can't handle much torque right now. With too much torque applied, it just slips so the RPM's go up without the car accelerating much. As the car starts to speed up and the speeds difference between the clutch and the flywheel comes to more of an equilibrium, the clutch will grab better and things will seem more normal.

When you start going from a stop, what rpm do you bring the engine up to before starting to let out the clutch?

[Unoriginalusername]

I'm not sure how that is a "BS" warranty. A clutch in a manual-transmission vehicle is a wear-and-tear item, equivalent to tires and other items. (this is also labeled as a wear-and-tear item in the manual and warranty papers.) I'm certainly not implying you're at fault for your clutch going south pre-maturely, but the warranty on the clutch really isn't that terrible. Some parts fail pre-maturely, and it sucks, I know.

the clutch on my matrix xrs was covered by the bumper to bumper 60,000 warranty

[bRANDO]

The fact is, bad driving can wear through a clutch easily within a year or so. You can't expect them to account for that.

I think though that wearing out, and being defective are two very different things. If they investigate and find something wrong with it, then I think they should cover it. If it's simply worn through, then I don't see why they would.

Of course, until someone looks at it and determines what's up... there's just not much more that can be said about this.

What you're describing is that the clutch can't handle much torque right now. With too much torque applied, it just slips so the RPM's go up without the car accelerating much. As the car starts to speed up and the speeds difference between the clutch and the flywheel comes to more of an equilibrium, the clutch will grab better and things will seem more normal.

When you start going from a stop, what rpm do you bring the engine up to before starting to let out the clutch?

approx 2500 ish.... thanx for drawing a picture for me!

[Unoriginalusername]

approx 2500 ish.... thanx for drawing a picture for me!

HOLLY MOLLEY... you can leave without bringing the rpm's up at all.... 2500 sounds a little high to me

[majic]

HOLLY MOLLEY... you can leave without bringing the rpm's up at all.... 2500 sounds a little high to me

+1.. no gas needed (a sliiiight blip if at all) from a stop..

IIRC 3000-3500 is a sweet spot for not too much tire squeal :)

[Wild Weasel]

HOLLY MOLLEY... you can leave without bringing the rpm's up at all.... 2500 sounds a little high to me

This is what I was sort of alluding to. Just wondering if his driving style might be conducive to clutch wear.

bRANDO: How long does it take you to get the clutch fully out when you start from a stop? 3 seconds? 5 seconds? 10 seconds?

[MajesticBlueNTO]

approx 2500 ish.... thanx for drawing a picture for me!

let me guess, you learned to drive stick on a 1.5L honda? :loco

[bubba1983]

^^ hahaha

[bRANDO]

let me guess, you learned to drive stick on a 1.5L honda? :loco

93 civic cx hatch when i was 13!!

2500ish.. i dont read the gauge when i shift.. its all feel and sound.

[bRANDO]

This is what I was sort of alluding to. Just wondering if his driving style might be conducive to clutch wear.

bRANDO: How long does it take you to get the clutch fully out when you start from a stop? 3 seconds? 5 seconds? 10 seconds?
cant say ive timed it.. but 3 or less.

[bRANDO]

Clutch blew up... fly-wheel needs to be replaced as well.. *sigh

[PlatMS6]

Clutch blew up... fly-wheel needs to be replaced as well.. *sigh

Disc shattered????? wtf did u do to the car?

It will probably be a lot cheaper and better to go aftermarket and have a reputable shop swap it out...

Also try to relearn driving stick, because starting at 2500 every time is kinda nuts - another 1k RPM and you're pretty much launching your car ><!

[Wild Weasel]

Clutch blew up... fly-wheel needs to be replaced as well.. *sigh

And they're not covering it under warranty? I mean... if it was just worn away, that would be one thing but it shouldn't fail completely like that, should it??

[doughboyr6]

damn...

go aftermarket, i'm sure you'll save quite a bit on the parts alone and pretty certain would perform better than the OEM stuff.

my clutch isn't slipping, but the point of engagment has changed a lot compared to before....now it catches almost at the end of the travel.

[Unoriginalusername]

i would push for a free install given the low km.... very early for complete destruction

[bRANDO]

i pick it up tomorrow.. parts too. ill take pics, you machine heads tell me. i dont know shit about clutch's.

[Flagrum_3]

let me guess, you learned to drive stick on a 1.5L honda? :loco


Hey, I had a 1.5 litre in my CRXsi and I never, (unless racing) had to rev anywhere near 2500rpm to take off from a dead stop!...900-1200rpm tops...but I was already a seasoned stick driver by then.Regular 2500rpm take-offs is the reason for the clutch burning out (in this case definitely)...I just can't figure how he never picked up on the smell!?


_3


.

[bRANDO]

my rpm's to leave my drvieway are a bit high because i have to back up a hill. Garage is under house. so thew clutch gets a little more work anytime i leave..

[queens49]

my rpm's to leave my drvieway are a bit high because i have to back up a hill. Garage is under house. so thew clutch gets a little more work anytime i leave..

I've only been driving a stick for little over a year now, and whenever I've parked on the street downhill, and needed to reverse up the hill a little to get out, I've never revved the engine up to ~2500 rpm. Someone said 900-1200 rpm, which seems around right for me as well.

[dentinger]

yupp, i seem to leave from a stop at ~1000 rpm, or so.

and how do you know if your shifting good and all and not abusing the clutch?? if the car doesnt jerk at all when you shift???

and if i were in your position bRANDO, i'd def be going for an aftermarket clutch/flywheel!! the flywheel alone will greatly improve acceleration and response!

[WeatherB]

yupp, i seem to leave from a stop at ~1000 rpm, or so.

and how do you know if your shifting good and all and not abusing the clutch?? if the car doesnt jerk at all when you shift???

and if i were in your position bRANDO, i'd def be going for an aftermarket clutch/flywheel!! the flywheel alone will greatly improve acceleration and response!

I don't think jerking / shaking is a good measure of clutch abuse. If anything, it's a measure of engine mount abuse.

Like WW said, slipping is wear. So, IMO, any unnecessary slippage of the clutch is abuse.

[Wild Weasel]

Like WW said, slipping is wear. So, IMO, any unnecessary slippage of the clutch is abuse.

Yep. The key is knowing what is and is not necessary slippage. :)

[dentinger]

ah ok.

i just said the jerking/shaking because when i first started to learn stick, i found the car would jerk a little when i shifted, but that was only because i was realeasing the clutch to fast....i tihnk.....