Loss of Braking Power?

[Fuman]

I felt a lost in brake power lately, so tonight I tested it out.
I went 60km/h and slammed on the brakes, I couldn't lock up the tires and ABS never went off. Is something wrong?

I also notice that I have to push the brake pedal pretty deep to get a noticeable response from the brakes.

Going to call MOT on Monday. But from the sound of this, is something wrong with my brakes?

I've plenty of pads left and decent tread left on the RS-As.

[Kevin@nextmod]

maybe your rotors are wearing out? Also...maybe its time for a brake fluid flush. When your brake fluids are all hot inside it'll give you a softer pedal.

[Fuman]

how do I tell they are wearing out?
They arent warped our anything.
The fluid was cold? since I just left my friends house.
edit: last night was the first time, I slammed on my brakes as hard as I can.
my car has 41000KM, mostly highway, so my pads are still pretty thick.

I also noticed my brakes with something similar to in picture as:
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=187751&postcount=1

edit: abs did come on like crazy when I went over 80.
brake pedal still feels overly soft during initial stepping on the brake pedal.

[sp3GT]

Fuman did you get it checked out? I haven't got around to bringing my car to get looked at yet, I do feel a little bit loss of braking power though.

Can you post it if you find out whats wrong.

Thanks.

[dentinger]

ive been having a similar problem on my car...
i always found the first couple stops, the brakes would grab like crazy....
but now, sometimes the pedal feels spongy, and the distance i have to push for the brakes to start grabbing differs.....

and i only have 10000km's on my car.... and i just noticed this problem recently......

[sp3GT]

Take it to the dealer if you have something similar to my brake, cause it's only covered for first 20k or 1 yr. I 'm just passed it :(

[Fuman]

Take it to the dealer if you have something similar to my brake, cause it's only covered for first 20k or 1 yr. I 'm just passed it :(

1.5 yrs and 41,000KM, lol.
I'm was suppose to take it to my mechanic yesterday but he had something to take care off. Going to try today or tomorrow.
edit: just called my mechanic, going in tonight at 6-7pm

[Fuman]

just got back from my mechanic.
He bled my brakes a little and refilled brake fluid.
Its alot better. He also warned me that because we have plastic brake lines they contract and expand due to heat so the brakes might feel mushy and such during heat. As a result of expansion and contraction bubbles may form.

[garboui]

plastic brake lines?? wow what isnt made of plastic these days

[Fuman]

plastic brake lines?? wow what isnt made of plastic these days
well brake lines don't use cheap plastic or anything but they still do expand a little bit. I finally understand why ppl use stainless steel brakelines.

[Kevin@nextmod]

just got back from my mechanic.
He bled my brakes a little and refilled brake fluid.
Its alot better. He also warned me that because we have plastic brake lines they contract and expand due to heat so the brakes might feel mushy and such during heat. As a result of expansion and contraction bubbles may form.
Isn't that what i kinda said?

[Flagrum_3]

Isn't that what i kinda said?

Not to be nit-picky but, from what I understood, you suggested a brake fluid flush, not a top-up..two different things...rarely would a vehicle need to have a complete flush done, unless the fluid has been contaminated, and don't let anyone try to tell you different.Its just another one of those "cash grabs" someone came up with and dealers like to sell.Otherwise a bleed and top-up will do the trick 99% of the time.A bleed will basically just get air out of the system which is most always the reason for the mushy brakes.
Anyways, Fuman, FYI; brake Flex-lines are not made of plastic, they are made of a high pressure rubber, which if they were to expand or contract from temperature changes, it would be so slight that it would not effect the braking enough to be noticed, it was basically air in your fluid that caused the problem.


_3


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[Fuman]

Not to be nit-picky but, from what I understood, you suggested a brake fluid flush, not a top-up..two different things...rarely would a vehicle need to have a complete flush done, unless the fluid has been contaminated, and don't let anyone try to tell you different.Its just another one of those "cash grabs" someone came up with and dealers like to sell.Otherwise a bleed and top-up will do the trick 99% of the time.A bleed will basically just get air out of the system which is most always the reason for the mushy brakes.
Anyways, Fuman, FYI; brake Flex-lines are not made of plastic, they are made of a high pressure rubber, which if they were to expand or contract from temperature changes, it would be so slight that it would not effect the braking enough to be noticed, it was basically air in your fluid that caused the problem.
_3
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oh... bahh I guess my mechanic was using the wrong terms. Thanks for the correction, I would of went on believing what my mechanic said. Gotta tell him to work on his english, lol. He was speaking chinglish to me.

How does air develop in the fluid then?

thanks Flagrum_3 for the corrections.

Pearly: you in short did a summary, but since my knowledge on this matter is rather limited, I didn't get it, lol.

[sp3GT]

Fuman, so do you have a hot spot or brakes that look similar to mine? I haven't really looked into it cause I don't feel that big of a difference in braking.

[Fuman]

Fuman, so do you have a hot spot or brakes that look similar to mine? I haven't really looked into it cause I don't feel that big of a difference in braking.

I do, I haven't looked at it either,
I'll take some pics later if it doesn't rain.
i think my rotors are warped too, the brake pedal virbrates when I brake going faster than 70-80km/h, but its only happening on the 404/DVP. So I'm like wtf, have to double check later.

[Flagrum_3]

oh... bahh I guess my mechanic was using the wrong terms. Thanks for the correction, I would of went on believing what my mechanic said. Gotta tell him to work on his english, lol. He was speaking chinglish to me.

How does air develop in the fluid then?

thanks Flagrum_3 for the corrections.

Your welcome and to try to answer your question,... air can get into the brake fluid through condensation occuring in the brake fluid reservoir, or flex-hoses to name a couple of places.As brake fluid is designed to absorb moisture, it will absorb whatever moisture will develope in those places and show up as air bubbles, but air bubbles will occur in most cases only when the system has been 'opened' such as in flex-hose replacements etc;...Another thing is called fluid vapor, which occurs when brake fluid is heated to the point where small amounts of fluid is turned to vapor, which is then trapped in the fluid, much the same way as air is, but this will occur only from excessive hard braking, such as in track racing....it is very unlikely to occur during regular day to day driving.

Hope that helps!


_3


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[Fuman]

Your welcome and to try to answer your question,... air can get into the brake fluid through condensation occuring in the brake fluid reservoir, or flex-hoses to name a couple of places.As brake fluid is designed to absorb moisture, it will absorb whatever moisture will develope in those places and show up as air bubbles, but air bubbles will occur in most cases only when the system has been 'opened' such as in flex-hose replacements etc;...Another thing is called fluid vapor, which occurs when brake fluid is heated to the point where small amounts of fluid is turned to vapor, which is then trapped in the fluid, much the same way as air is, but this will occur only from excessive hard braking, such as in track racing....it is very unlikely to occur during regular day to day driving.
Hope that helps!
_3
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thanks man. ur a mechanic?

[MZ3_GS]

Not to be nit-picky but, from what I understood, you suggested a brake fluid flush, not a top-up..two different things...rarely would a vehicle need to have a complete flush done, unless the fluid has been contaminated, and don't let anyone try to tell you different.Its just another one of those "cash grabs" someone came up with and dealers like to sell.Otherwise a bleed and top-up will do the trick 99% of the time.A bleed will basically just get air out of the system which is most always the reason for the mushy brakes.
Anyways, Fuman, FYI; brake Flex-lines are not made of plastic, they are made of a high pressure rubber, which if they were to expand or contract from temperature changes, it would be so slight that it would not effect the braking enough to be noticed, it was basically air in your fluid that caused the problem.


_3


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Brake fluid, like any other fluid in your car needs to be changed after a certain interval. The only way to do so is to flush and bleed the entire system.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

As brake fluid is designed to absorb moisture, it will absorb whatever moisture will develope in those places and show up as air bubbles, but air bubbles will occur in most cases only when the system has been 'opened' such as in flex-hose replacements etc
_3


.

glycol-based brake fluid (DOT 3 and DOT 4) are not designed to absorb moisture, they are hygroscopic (attract/absorb moisture) by design. semantics really, but the absorption of moisture is a consequence of the composition of the fluid, not a design parameter of the fluid.

silicone-based DOT 5 brake fluid does not absorb moisture (but should not be used in the 3).

[Flagrum_3]

glycol-based brake fluid (DOT 3 and DOT 4) are not designed to absorb moisture, they are hygroscopic (attract/absorb moisture) by design. semantics really, but the absorption of moisture is a consequence of the composition of the fluid, not a design parameter of the fluid.

silicone-based DOT 5 brake fluid does not absorb moisture (but should not be used in the 3).

Mr technical, that's what I meant, but wanted to keep it simple, didn't want to get too technical:chuckle


_3


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[Flagrum_3]

Brake fluid, like any other fluid in your car needs to be changed after a certain interval. The only way to do so is to flush and bleed the entire system.

I have to dissagree with your statement, brake fluid does not have to be changed in intervals like other fluids, hense the reason there is no schedule for such changes mentioned anywhere in the owners manual or I'm pretty sure the shop manuals.I would like to believe, considering how important the brakes are, safety-wise, if it was the case it would be mentioned in BOLD.
As mentioned before brakefluid only needs complete reflushes if the fluid has been contaminated, otherwise simple bleed and fills at scheduled brake-change service intervals would surfice.Mind you maybe changing the fluid completely after maybe 7 or 8 years would not hurt either but again unnessary.


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[MAZDA Kitten]

Would SS brake lines prevent this kind of thing happening?

[Flagrum_3]

Would SS brake lines prevent this kind of thing happening?

Simply answered, NO,...And if you decide to get SS lines put in the technicians wouldhave to bleed the system, because that is one way air can enter the system.


_3


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[Krazy]

So your brakes... are better now?

I think im having a similar issue..

I have to push the brakes HARDER now. Almost to the point where I can push on it anymore sometimes... (i tested it without even stepping on accel at all...)

Gonna try to go to Agincourt tomorrow after work to get it looked at :(

Im hoping it's something small as I only have 4k mileage -_- and this is 2010 Mazda 3. GAH!

[Fuman]

So your brakes... are better now?

I think im having a similar issue..

I have to push the brakes HARDER now. Almost to the point where I can push on it anymore sometimes... (i tested it without even stepping on accel at all...)

Gonna try to go to Agincourt tomorrow after work to get it looked at :(

Im hoping it's something small as I only have 4k mileage -_- and this is 2010 Mazda 3. GAH!
its better after MoT replaced the brake booster. Still not what it was.

[TheMAN]

I have to dissagree with your statement, brake fluid does not have to be changed in intervals like other fluids, hense the reason there is no schedule for such changes mentioned anywhere in the owners manual or I'm pretty sure the shop manuals.I would like to believe, considering how important the brakes are, safety-wise, if it was the case it would be mentioned in BOLD.
As mentioned before brakefluid only needs complete reflushes if the fluid has been contaminated, otherwise simple bleed and fills at scheduled brake-change service intervals would surfice.Mind you maybe changing the fluid completely after maybe 7 or 8 years would not hurt either but again unnessary.


_3


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I disagree with your disagree
because brake fluid is hygroscopic, the moisture present in old brake fluid WILL cause safety issues... the boiling point is lowered and a couple of emergency stops is enough to get the brake fluid boiling... when that happens, air bubbles are also created and that will cause the pedal to go to mush and you can't stop the car... the pedal goes to the floor while your car rams into someone in front of you!

many other manufacturers recommend brake fluid flushes at certain intervals because of this... furthermore, the the european mazda maintenance schedule recommends brake fluid flushes too... just because it's not mentioned in your owners manual (like tranny fluid changes) doesn't mean it isn't necessary to be done... it NEVER hurts to over maintain your car but hurts if you under do it... there's many pages detailing why it needs to be done with hard scientific facts over it... google and you will see!

and finally, the moisture in the brake fluid can also cause corrosion of brake parts that can cause calipers to seize or abs pump failures... also the rust and crap floating around in the fluid can also tear up rubber seals such as the one in the master cylinder.. all of this can cause premature component failure

[TheMAN]

its better after MoT replaced the brake booster. Still not what it was.
if the brake booster was not adjusted properly, then it will cause brake feel issues

also, since the master cylinder has to be removed to replace the brake booster, if it wasn't bled properly, a mushy pedal may result... if you have ABS, the ABS pump may also have to be bled since the entire brake system was exposed to air

[Flagrum_3]

I disagree with your disagree
because brake fluid is hygroscopic, the moisture present in old brake fluid WILL cause safety issues... the boiling point is lowered and a couple of emergency stops is enough to get the brake fluid boiling... when that happens, air bubbles are also created and that will cause the pedal to go to mush and you can't stop the car... the pedal goes to the floor while your car rams into someone in front of you!

many other manufacturers recommend brake fluid flushes at certain intervals because of this... furthermore, the the european mazda maintenance schedule recommends brake fluid flushes too... just because it's not mentioned in your owners manual (like tranny fluid changes) doesn't mean it isn't necessary to be done... it NEVER hurts to over maintain your car but hurts if you under do it... there's many pages detailing why it needs to be done with hard scientific facts over it... google and you will see!

and finally, the moisture in the brake fluid can also cause corrosion of brake parts that can cause calipers to seize or abs pump failures... also the rust and crap floating around in the fluid can also tear up rubber seals such as the one in the master cylinder.. all of this can cause premature component failure

I think you read too much into Internet hoopla.First, do you even understand why European Mazda/other manufacturers recommend brake fluid changes?...There is a reason.....and it has to do with geographical differences.

Two, it would take years and I mean 'many years' before enough moisture gets into the brake fluid by natural absorption before it becomes dangerous or corrosive....The only way to get air in your system is to open it, under normal conditions....tracking a vehicle is a different matter.....the constant high speed braking will cause the fluid to boil....a couple of emergency stops? ....not likely.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for preventative maintenance and if someone wants to be on the safe side and change-out their brake fluid every few years, all the power to them!!....Just don't go hyping false rumours conjured up on the internet that it is an absolute necessity and scaring people that thier liable to get into an accident if it's not changed to your liking.....I wouldn't doubt one bit this rumour was started by someone who could make money from it.



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[TheMAN]

believe whatever you want to believe... I'm tired of arguing with you over vehicle maintenance... maybe you'd think differently if you worked in the industry and as a certified mechanic

my mom's new 07 corolla... always parked outside, only 16000km on it.... guess what, the brake pedal is scary mush already... what happened? brake fluid went bad from moisture... flushed the brakes and now its good as new

you make geographical location sound like the ultimate determining factor in everything maintenance related... I tell you it's not all of it... whatever, believe whatever you want

if you know anything about the brake reservoir cap, it is NOT designed to be a full seal... it is designed to equalize pressure with the outside... in otherwords air can still go in, slowly!


so keep on down playing everything to "internet hoopla" and happy motoring!

[mazda lover]

if the brake booster was not adjusted properly, then it will cause brake feel issues

also, since the master cylinder has to be removed to replace the brake booster, if it wasn't bled properly, a mushy pedal may result... if you have ABS, the ABS pump may also have to be bled since the entire brake system was exposed to air

how does one adjust a brake booster on a Mazda 3?

[TheMAN]

there is a push rod in the brake booster... it is supposed to push against the master cylinder piston to apply the brake force... if the clearance is too little the brakes will drag.. too much and the pedal won't be very responsive... there is a lock nut that can be loosened and the rod can then be turned to adjust the clearance

[mazda lover]

there is a push rod in the brake booster... it is supposed to push against the master cylinder piston to apply the brake force... if the clearance is too little the brakes will drag.. too much and the pedal won't be very responsive... there is a lock nut that can be loosened and the rod can then be turned to adjust the clearance


Thanks, now I remember, my old truck was the same, so I guess nothing has changed over the years,

[Flagrum_3]

believe whatever you want to believe... I'm tired of arguing with you over vehicle maintenance... maybe you'd think differently if you worked in the industry and as a certified mechanic

my mom's new 07 corolla... always parked outside, only 16000km on it.... guess what, the brake pedal is scary mush already... what happened? brake fluid went bad from moisture... flushed the brakes and now its good as new

you make geographical location sound like the ultimate determining factor in everything maintenance related... I tell you it's not all of it... whatever, believe whatever you want

if you know anything about the brake reservoir cap, it is NOT designed to be a full seal... it is designed to equalize pressure with the outside... in otherwords air can still go in, slowly!


so keep on down playing everything to "internet hoopla" and happy motoring!

I have!! and I've probably been around cars and i.e; other knowledgeable Mechanics much longer then you could say!....So don't try to downtalk me.

I have my opinion and it comes from experience and I stand by what I say...sorry if that offends you.

The situation with your mother's car is very unlikely and very odd, ....maybe someone farked around and didn't put the cap back on correctly!....it just won't happen from sitting around, so there's more to the story.

Hey, I'm not the one making the geographical location distinction! ....the manufacturers do!!....and they feel there's a reason obviously, by having different maintenance schedules and items for different regions.

To conclude, I will continue to question everything stated on the Internet, because we all know there is alot of mis-information spread on there, ....and I'll continue to motor on happily, thanks.


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[TheMAN]

and you're trying to "downtalk" me like I don't know what I'm talking about

my PROFESSIONAL opinion is not based on what I read off the internet, but I use the internet to back up MY opinions unlike what you have to say... it's not my fault you don't google/want to read about brake fluid's hygroscopicness and see actual data and testing methods to prove this on brake fluid thats just a couple of years old

I don't care about geographical BS... when things go bad, they go bad, plain and simple


NO one left the cap open, its a brand new freaking car... parking the car outside constantly exposes the car to a lot of humidity (especially not being driven a lot) and that already has made the original brake fluid pretty "wet"

like I said already, the brake system is NOT totally sealed... you need to go back to tech school and learn about what the brake reservoir cap really does... it's NOT simple like your peanut butter jar's cap

[Flagrum_3]

like I said already, the brake system is NOT totally sealed... you need to go back to tech school and learn about what the brake reservoir cap really does... it's NOT simple like your peanut butter jar's cap

Really? You don't say! :loco



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[kevcol74]

:pop

This is entertaining! How big of a hole do you plan to dig Flagrum? TheMAN knows his shlt, more so than likely anybody here! Why? Because he is a CERTIFIED MECHANIC!!
I've been in the industry for over 20 years myself, grew up beside a auto shop where I was always learning from certified mechanics. Bought my first car at 13, completey restored it. Always been wrenching since I was 13.... and now I'm 34. And guess what.... TheMAN knows a HELL of alot more than me! Brake fluid needs to be changed, plain and simple! Not because I'm siding with TheMAN, its common knowledge! I knew that before the internet was a huge information source!! Why don't you aregue that you can use silicone brake fluid and never have moisture issues? Simply it doesn't stop debris from forming that, as mentioned, can tear up seals in the system!
Flagrum, best advice, listen and LEARN. There are certain people that know more than you about certain things... and when it comes to cars, especially our Mazdas, that person is TheMAN.

Well, thats my 2 cents!

[Flagrum_3]

I don't dig holes. But I've been known to fill them.:whoa.

We all have our opinions, I've stated mine! Whether anyone wants to follow it...that's up to them.....no sweat!! :)


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[Zoom Zoom Boy]

I'm still taking bets...

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=36460

[Lizzy]

I was reading this forum on Mazda 3 brake problems and thought I should mention this. On Thursday I was driving home from work and stopped at a red light, while sitting there it felt like my brake was getting closer to the floor and I had to push the pedal harder, The light turned green and I went, When I came up to the next light and tried to stop, No brakes. Holy crap, I ended up having to use my emergency brake to stop slowly because I didn't want to spin around either, I was in rush hour traffic, I turned down the side streets and managed to get my car home, When I opened the hood to look at the brake fluid which was just checked in June it was now empty, I couldn't find any leaks or any thing on the ground, My neighbor and I were baffled, So the next morning I called Mazda and was told because my car was out of warranty that it would be $110.00 an hour to look at it plus the tow truck.Now here's the kicker, The warranty expired on my car July 30/09, It's a 2006 Mazda 3 GT sport, 17.000 KM, So this is how they treat there customers. Nice, So I ended up having it towed to anther garage and they found my master cylinder was gone, So $800.00 later I now have brakes again, I want to warn everyone I had the same pedal issues for about 3 weeks before I completely lost them, The soft pedal, Had to push harder, be careful, Get the brakes checked right away, Also the brake warning light does not come on for this, apparently that's normal. Has anyone else had any issues with there master cylinder with low mileage, I am going to write Mazda Canada a letter a fight this but I have to calm down first, I also have the Master cylinder they removed, The garage that I took the car to is also going to help me fight Mazda on this as they cannot believe this part went on such a low mileage car that is very well taken care of.

[Donutz]

Wait, your master cylinder was gone as in no good; or gone as in *looks around* gone? That's effin scary...

EDIT* nvm. I just reread your post. Welcome to TM3!

[Fuman]

I was reading this forum on Mazda 3 brake problems and thought I should mention this. On Thursday I was driving home from work and stopped at a red light, while sitting there it felt like my brake was getting closer to the floor and I had to push the pedal harder, The light turned green and I went, When I came up to the next light and tried to stop, No brakes. Holy crap, I ended up having to use my emergency brake to stop slowly because I didn't want to spin around either, I was in rush hour traffic, I turned down the side streets and managed to get my car home, When I opened the hood to look at the brake fluid which was just checked in June it was now empty, I couldn't find any leaks or any thing on the ground, My neighbor and I were baffled, So the next morning I called Mazda and was told because my car was out of warranty that it would be $110.00 an hour to look at it plus the tow truck.Now here's the kicker, The warranty expired on my car July 30/09, It's a 2006 Mazda 3 GT sport, 17.000 KM, So this is how they treat there customers. Nice, So I ended up having it towed to anther garage and they found my master cylinder was gone, So $800.00 later I now have brakes again, I want to warn everyone I had the same pedal issues for about 3 weeks before I completely lost them, The soft pedal, Had to push harder, be careful, Get the brakes checked right away, Also the brake warning light does not come on for this, apparently that's normal. Has anyone else had any issues with there master cylinder with low mileage, I am going to write Mazda Canada a letter a fight this but I have to calm down first, I also have the Master cylinder they removed, The garage that I took the car to is also going to help me fight Mazda on this as they cannot believe this part went on such a low mileage car that is very well taken care of.
glad you are okay man...
good luck with your fight w/ mazda canada

[TheMAN]

its pretty unbelievable it happened to such a new car... but low miles after that many years is not something to say about "it shouldn't break"... like I said earlier in this thread... even if the car wasn't driven, the brake fluid deteriorates from moisture as well as contaminants coming from inside the system... this can tear up the seals which MAY have contributed to this... I doubt it was the real cause of it as it looks more like a defect instead

as for the bad brake fluid and seals, a TSB for the mazda6 squeeky brake pedal was made just for that... the brake fluid gets bad from contaminants off worn rubber or bits of rust on 1-2 year old 6s and squeeky pedal results... fix was to flush the brake fluid and that fixed it... before the TSB came out, it was customary to replace the master cylinder and brake booster to fix it but mazda didn't really like that, hence the TSB ;)

[mazda lover]

I was reading this forum on Mazda 3 brake problems and thought I should mention this. On Thursday I was driving home from work and stopped at a red light, while sitting there it felt like my brake was getting closer to the floor and I had to push the pedal harder, The light turned green and I went, When I came up to the next light and tried to stop, No brakes. Holy crap, I ended up having to use my emergency brake to stop slowly because I didn't want to spin around either, I was in rush hour traffic, I turned down the side streets and managed to get my car home, When I opened the hood to look at the brake fluid which was just checked in June it was now empty, I couldn't find any leaks or any thing on the ground, My neighbor and I were baffled, So the next morning I called Mazda and was told because my car was out of warranty that it would be $110.00 an hour to look at it plus the tow truck.Now here's the kicker, The warranty expired on my car July 30/09, It's a 2006 Mazda 3 GT sport, 17.000 KM, So this is how they treat there customers. Nice, So I ended up having it towed to anther garage and they found my master cylinder was gone, So $800.00 later I now have brakes again, I want to warn everyone I had the same pedal issues for about 3 weeks before I completely lost them, The soft pedal, Had to push harder, be careful, Get the brakes checked right away, Also the brake warning light does not come on for this, apparently that's normal. Has anyone else had any issues with there master cylinder with low mileage, I am going to write Mazda Canada a letter a fight this but I have to calm down first, I also have the Master cylinder they removed, The garage that I took the car to is also going to help me fight Mazda on this as they cannot believe this part went on such a low mileage car that is very well taken care of.

$800 for a brake master cylinder and fluid + labour WTF doesn't anybody here think this is outragous
How much was the master cylinder? how many hours of labour?
I changed the master cylinder myself on my truck, cost about $50
Bleed the lines and was good to go. Works like it was new.

[Shawn]

Yep, sound like alot to me too. Maybe it was master and booster.
When a master leaks internal it can get into the master some time. Also does the hard pedal because the booster is fighting the liquid in it also (plug vacuum check valve).

[mazda lover]

Yep, sound like alot to me too. Maybe it was master and booster.
When a master leaks internal it can get into the master some time. Also does the hard pedal because the booster is fighting the liquid in it also (plug vacuum check valve).

even with the booster the price still seems HIGH

[Fuman]

For those with autos.
is it normal for the brake pedal to go as low as the gas pedal before you get any braking power?

[TheMAN]

don't think so

[mazda lover]

don't think so

+1 ^^

[Krisekca]

TheMan,

What is the procedure that Mazda uses to bleed master and ABS unit ?
Do they have to cycle ABS pump via WDS ?
Or they just pressure bleed Brakes ?

When I press hard on my brake pedal - It will go to the floor ... - I think I may have air in system ..
Or seals on Master are leaking ... Any tips how hard is to replace master on MZ3 ?

Thx

K

[TheMAN]

any car that has an ABS system, it is best to run the ABS pump to get the air out of the pump also

[Krisekca]

Can I trigger pump with WDS ?
Or I just have to take it for a drive ;)?

[derekjaii]

Hi pplz, i just bought the new 2010 MAzda3 GS and its bout 5K mileage and my brakes arent grabbing like before..i've asked around*mechanic friends* some say its the rotor and some says its the brakes..but my brakes are good!....can anyone help me out?!....thank you