Check List: Engine Hesitation, Stuttering, bogging, stalling or/and rough idle

[pahecko]

I've been having the this problems for awhile and so I have done my share of research (and as such have more questions then answers!) and have come across a number of this that could have such effect:

-MAF Wiring/dirty maf sensor/bad maf sensor
-Dirty/Bad Spark plug
-Dirty/Bad Fuel Injectors
-Primary O2 sensor
-Dirty Throttle Body
-Vacuum leaks
-Low Fuel Pressure
-Dirty/bad EGR Valve
-Bad TPS Sensor

LINKS

Diagnosing the problem (http://www.aa1car.com/library/problem_hesitation.htm)

How-To: Cleaning your MAF/IAT Sensor. (http://www.ozmazda.com/board/index.php?showtopic=2796)

How-To: Cleaning your EGR Valve (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788)

How-To: Cleaning your Throttle Body (http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/1272341.html?page=1)


On to my progress. I've done:

-Spark Plugs
-Cleaned the MAF sensor
-Cleaned Throttle Body
-Used Fuel Injector Cleaner
-I even cleaned the main grounding point.

Here's the list of codes I pulled.

p0138 - Second o2 sensor high voltage
p0139 - Second o2 sensor slow response
p0300 - Random Misfire Detected
p0103 - Mass or Volume air flow circuit High Input.

MAF wiring short? or just a bad sensor? Hope I can get some input. Don't want to drop $$ on a maf sensor I don't need. Already did that with the sparks! :bang

[b]

I don't know what it could be. I've had this type of problem 3 or 4 times and each time it is a different reason. I know you don't want to spend but I do say take it to the dealer. Mississauga Mazda has always been very good in figuring it out and I would go back there again if I have the same symptoms.

First time was that I needed a new maf sensor.
Second time a wire broke leading to my maf sensor.
Third time it was a wire that came loose out of the computer.

All 3 things made my car drive like it was my first time driving standard. Jerking, shaking, rev's jumping all over, stalling etc...

[pahecko]

I don't know what it could be. I've had this type of problem 3 or 4 times and each time it is a different reason. I know you don't want to spend but I do say take it to the dealer. Mississauga Mazda has always been very good in figuring it out and I would go back there again if I have the same symptoms.

First time was that I needed a new maf sensor.
Second time a wire broke leading to my maf sensor.
Third time it was a wire that came loose out of the computer.

All 3 things made my car drive like it was my first time driving standard. Jerking, shaking, rev's jumping all over, stalling etc...

How consistent was the problem for each reason? would it go away and everything seem honky dory, only to suddenly come back? or was it always happening? Did it happen regardless of road conditions (bumpy, up hill, turning) ? I don't suppose you know what code the maf threw?

Thanks for the input! I'm getting a new maf today though I'm not entirely sure its the problem. Tonight after i got off from work I drove around in the parking lot and it was bucking like a bronco. So I had this genius idea *sarcasm* to use contact cleaner on the female connector to the maf. Didn't think it help but I didn't want it doing that on the highway so i figured what the hell.

And it worked. go figure. Well ok, it worked all the way home but didn't believe it actually fixed the problem so I kept cruising for awhile. Well lo and behold it started again. At first just when i shifted to second, hesitation. then full blown stuttering. Unplugged the maf while the car was running, did is bogging thing, plugged it back it, car dies.

ok... turn it on... next step shake the intake around after a few shakes it bogs but doesn't die... interesting. move the wire around a bit.. also bogged. Again, it wasn't consistent. I could move it around and nothing happens. Even pulled on the wires and nothing would happen.

Not only that but plugging the maf in while the car was running trips 4 codes. 2 for the maf and 2 for the temp sensor. high voltage and low voltage for both. So if it's the wiring, wouldn't it trip both high and low for at least the maf if not both while it's plugged in?

And if it is the maf, wouldn't it be more consistent and not matter what the road conditions are? ARGH :bang I hate electronics.
/rant

Anyways I'll keep playing with it and when my new maf comes in I'll see how that goes and post an update. Lot of driving around aimlessly today!

[b]

That is exactly what I had... you probably have issue #1 or #2 of what I wrote. I know from having Tiffany at Mississauga Mazda come out and chat with me on the issue each time... She would explain what they found wrong. Good luck.

I eventually took out my injen cai and I haven't had a problem since. To be honest I haven't noticed any change in performance without it and my exhaust sounds even better now without it :)

[MajesticBlueNTO]

p0138 - Second o2 sensor high voltage
p0139 - Second o2 sensor slow response


those codes are due to your Vibrant header



p0103 - Mass or Volume air flow circuit High Input.


that one is either your MAF is dirty from the intake, or the wire is too taut and has cracked somewhere, and is what is tripping the random mutliple misfire as an improper amount of air is being metered to mix with the fuel.

either periodically clean the MAF as described in that link (your current one is probably past the point of no return) or put back on the stock intake back on with the new MAF and see if the problem continues. if it does, one of your MAF wires is cracked/severed.

[pahecko]

those codes are due to your Vibrant header




that one is either your MAF is dirty from the intake, or the wire is too taut and has cracked somewhere, and is what is tripping the random mutliple misfire as an improper amount of air is being metered to mix with the fuel.

either periodically clean the MAF as described in that link (your current one is probably past the point of no return) or put back on the stock intake back on with the new MAF and see if the problem continues. if it does, one of your MAF wires is cracked/severed.

Actually, it's the oddest thing. I put the new maf in and still had the problem. No codes, as the code didn't come up all the time anyways. So I checked the connectors the hook into the ecu. and the tops were dirty. I cleaned them and used contact cleaner (tho they looked fine on the inside) and since then no problem. Well not suttering. Still had hesitation 4K+ rpms but only after hitting a bump so I bought a new filter (dry-flow baby!) Now no issue.

Couple side notes: ecu was drawing more power after cleaning the connectors. Not much but before it was always just under 14V and after it would be just over 14. Second my primary sensor usually reads -0.00xx mA. which I find weird. how could it read -mA?
Anyways thankfully so far the problem seems done with. Personally i think it was the filter that was the culprit. Mix with maybe some electrical. Bad grounding or dirty connectors.

Thanks for the inputs

[Ex-Rolla]

Hey Pahecko,

How did it turn out for you? After the filter and the MAF has the problem reoccurred? I have the same issue. I have been experiencing extreme hesitation when accelerating from a complete stop. I can also feel it during downshifts. No stalling but it feels like it's gonna start any day.

I just had my fuel system/throttle body cleaned at the dealer and it seems to have gotten worse. MAF is about a year old, so I'm sure it's not the issue (although open to the possibility). I was advised by a mechanic friend that it may be the DPFE sensor which apparently is a common problem.

I started noticing the problem after i cleaned my air filter. Before that, i hadn't cleaned it for almost 8 months (drove dirty all through winter). I have not unplugged the battery yet to reset the ecu which i will overnight tonight and see if that makes a difference.

Anyone else have issues since Pahecko's post? Any fixes?

thanks all!

[MajesticBlueNTO]

I started noticing the problem after i cleaned my air filter. Before that, i hadn't cleaned it for almost 8 months (drove dirty all through winter).

oil filter?

if so, it may be over-oiled and the MAF has oil deposits on it. try cleaning your MAF with the electronic contact cleaner. (may want to let it soak for a while).

do you get a CEL after the hesitation?...did resetting the ecu help at all?

[Ex-Rolla]

Hey M,

I tool the MAF out and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol an a q-tip... did not know there was a product for cleaning electronics... Anyway, it seems to have improved quite a bit but can still feel some hesitation. I even saw some red oil on the the q-tip after cleaning the inside of it. It's a K&N knock off so i might replace it. I feel that it may not be absorbing the oil properly and might get contaminents in the engine. it is roughly 4 years old now.

I think i may just get a new MAF as well. It's not too expensive anyway. It's odd that the CEL didn't come on after the filter was cleaned when the hesitation started.

thaks for the response!

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Hey M,

I tool the MAF out and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol an a q-tip... did not know there was a product for cleaning electronics... Anyway, it seems to have improved quite a bit but can still feel some hesitation. I even saw some red oil on the the q-tip after cleaning the inside of it. It's a K&N knock off so i might replace it. I feel that it may not be absorbing the oil properly and might get contaminents in the engine. it is roughly 4 years old now.

I think i may just get a new MAF as well. It's not too expensive anyway. It's odd that the CEL didn't come on after the filter was cleaned when the hesitation started.

thaks for the response!

The dark orange/amber (probably black-ish now) bulb that you see is, i believe, the Intake Air Temp sensor.

The actual hot wire of the MAF is recessed in the tube beside that bulb.

Don't buy a new MAF yet...rest the MAF upside down and pour some alcohol down the tube (or spray the electronic contact cleaner down the tube). let it sit for a while and then pour it out. Let the MAF dry before putting it back in and starting up the car.

Here's a pic to show what i'm talking about... the dark orange/blackish bulb is on the right and the tube is on the left. if you look in the tube, you should be able to see the hot wire.

http://web.archive.org/web/20071108134842/www.mazda6tech.com/images/maf/maf5.jpg

You won't be able to fit a q-tip down the tube, nor should you, as the wire is quite sensitive.

If you still have hesitation, try cleaning it again, this time leaving it to soak a bit longer. if it is still acting up after that, the MAF is toast and might as well get a new one :)

[Ex-Rolla]

Thanks for the suggestions... Tried cleaning the MAF like you suggested, still the same issue.

Went and purchased a new one, installed it at night and disconnected the battery until morning. Still the same issue :(.

Going to look at the other suggestions posted above. Anything else that comes to mind? It's only hesitating when i accelerate from a complete stop.

[BugabooMum420]

I just had a horrible time with my 3. Took a trip to Toronto and when I was backing up the car felt like it was going to stall out on me and chugged hardcore. Checked the car out and it was all clear, a week later I was driving and the car started doing it again. Started chugging and all that crap, then it wouldn't go over fourty, engine light popped on and started blinking. Did a test and it came up code 3. Changed my spark plugs and then two coils cracked. All in all, needed coils and plugs.

[TheMAN]

has a ECU flash ever been done to the car? I know there were fixes to some stalling/idling issues

[BugabooMum420]

Nope, I haven't had the car flashed...perhaps I should.

[iheartmazda3]

my car is at mazda right now with a stalling problem when im sitting at a light it starts to shake then my rpms go to zero and it shuts off... any insite to this problem.

[TheMAN]

looks like they'll need to replace the throttle body then if it already has been cleaned

[iheartmazda3]

what does anyone know about the ECG and the stalling problems.....well i made them ,, yes made them reprogram my PCM cuz i had a shift shock problem hoping to fix it... they had my car for four days driving it around,,, they said the engine like came on but it never threw a code and never stalled so the next day i asked them to do my PCM in hopes to improve it

[iheartmazda3]

i mean the EGR apparently has a recall or warranty on it?