Wheel stud thread screwed up, options?

[Unoriginalusername]

So i went to mount some wheels on my ms3 today, haven't touched them since they were last rotated by mississauga mazda in the summer and from what i can gather someone got trigger happy with the impact wrench before properly threading on the nut by hand first.

Took me about 30 minutes to get it off but i eventually was able to work the stripped nut off the thread. Hoping it was just the nut that was screwed up i went and put on a new nut which wouldn't take and started to strip also meaning the thread on the stud itself is damaged.

So i now have a wheel with a missing bolt... can the stud be easily replaced and if so at what cost?

[Gizzmo_jr]

should be able to replace the stud, I imagine calling Joe would have price. Just gotta make sure the splines are the same count.

I've had to do this on my jeep. Simple enough with alot of penetrating lubricant, depending how rusty it is. By the age of your car and no winters you shouldn't have much issue.
Take the wheel off then hopefully a spot you can see the back of the stud, then bang it out from the front with a hammer.

[Flagrum_3]

I'd suggest you take it back to Mississauga Mazda and have them fix it...they farked it! ...plus I'm not sure, but the studs might need to be pressed on.


_3

[Walrus]

Yeah, usually you can beat it out with a hammer. Then you slip the new stud in from behind, and tap it until the threads are sticking out the front of the hub enough that you can use a lug nut (without the wheel mounted yet) to pull it the rest of the way/fully seat it by tightening the nut.

[SonicBoy]

Process mentioned above is the way to go. I can tell you that it can be a bitch to knock the stud out even with penetrating oil. Flagrum may be correct in that it might need to be pressed in.

Is this the front or rear wheel?

I think Cdn. Tire sells this ==> http://www.threadmate.com/. Not sure if this tool has enough clearance to work with the stud on the vehicle.

[Noisy Crow]

+1 One on replacing the stud... but rather than use a hammer is should be pressed out if at all possible. Banging with a hammer isn't all that good for the bearings... You can use a large C-clamp and something to bridge the the head of the stud... a really large nut, or a piece of hardwood with a divot drilled into it. If it is a rear wheel pulling the hub off isn't that difficult, and you can then get a shop to press out the stud. Of course a shop might also have a hydraulic or pneumantic tool to remove in place....

[b]

Talk to Tiffany @ Oakville Mazda. She fixed mine this spring when I goof'd up a few threads. It is fairly cheap.

[kevcol74]

Replacing the stud yourself isn't all that difficult. Penetrating oil isn't needed, its not threaded in. Just make sure you get the right stud, prefereably from Mazda. Line up the hub with its corresponding hole behind it, to make sure you have clearance for the stud to come out. Get a good sized persuader, a small one will take multiple hits, and can be bad for the bearing. A good sized hammer will take one good square hit, and will NOT hurt the bearing.
As Walrus mentioned, use a new nut to pull it through. Here is a trick, usaed all the time in shops, use an open end nut, not a closed cap nut, and put it on backwards (cone end out) Thiis will allow the stud to pull through without the cone or stud wrecking while pressing on the hub. I've done it all too many times myself... word of advice, don't let your old man "help" you buy doing up your lugs while you wok on another tire...lol

[SonicBoy]

So i went to mount some wheels on my ms3 today, haven't touched them since they were last rotated by mississauga mazda in the summer and from what i can gather someone got trigger happy with the impact wrench before properly threading on the nut by hand first.

Took me about 30 minutes to get it off but i eventually was able to work the stripped nut off the thread. Hoping it was just the nut that was screwed up i went and put on a new nut which wouldn't take and started to strip also meaning the thread on the stud itself is damaged.

So i now have a wheel with a missing bolt... can the stud be easily replaced and if so at what cost?

So, how did you make out with this?

I'm seeing more and more stories about cross thread/broken studs now that everyone is busy changing snow tires.

Forgot to add that the part# for a stud is BP4K-33-062 and should run your $4-$5 from the dealership unless you're going aftermarket.

[Unoriginalusername]

I actually haven't made it in just yet as the last week or two was to insane at work to find the time, so i will have to try in the new year. i haven't driven my car much which is good... just taking a while

[rsquared]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I have a similar problem that I'd like to get some feedback on.

I brought my Mazda 3 to Tires23 yesterday to swap the winters for the summers. They had a problem removing the winter tires, as a few nuts weren't playing nice. They managed to get the wheel off, but one of the nuts would not come off and is currently still hanging onto the bolt. They installed my summer rims, but that particular wheel only has 4 of the 5 nuts connected. The guy working on it showed me the problem, it's on the front passenger's side wheel. The nut/bolt can be moved around slightly, it's pretty wobbly. He said whoever put the winters on probably over torqued the nut.

I called a local garage I use for service, and he said it may be as easy as taking out the bolt and replacing it, but he's not sure until he sees it in person. If it turns out to be a simple fix, he said it would cost me about $100 total (parts/labour). However, if it's more complicated I may need a new hub which costs $400 just for the part. I told him what the Tires23 guy said about over torquing, and he said that it would have had to be very excessive for that to happen. He seems to think it's probably a defect.

So, that being said, I can't remember where I had my winters installed, but would it be correct for me to go back to that place to complain about this problem? Or would Mazda cover this under warranty (I do have extended warranty that's still in effect)? Advice is appreciated!

[Olestra]

Probably not warranty because it's not a defect, but rather a damaged part. Two weeks ago, I just had 2 studs on the same wheel replaced. $5 per stud(bolt) from Mazda and $50 labour to change the studs out. I just had a tire shop do it. I'm surprised Tires23 can't do it for you.

You could go back to the shop that did your winters and complain. I would have done it while I still had my winters on. You can't strip the stud from loosening or taking the nut off but it happens when you tighten. So if nothing had changed on your wheels, you could easily pin the damage on that shop.
They may try to deny everything or make up stories now that you have your summers on.

Can't hurt to try.

[rsquared]

Thanks for your input Olestra. So was it the Mazda dealership that quoted you $50 for labour, or the tire shop charged you $50?

I asked Tires23 if they could repair it but they said they didn't do those types of repairs there. I may check with Allen at Simplytyre.

[Olestra]

Thanks for your input Olestra. So was it the Mazda dealership that quoted you $50 for labour, or the tire shop charged you $50?

I asked Tires23 if they could repair it but they said they didn't do those types of repairs there. I may check with Allen at Simplytyre.


I just had a tire shop do it.


I had a tire shop do it (Bestway tire in Edmonton, Alberta). They quoted me $50-100 labour and only charged me $50 in the end.
My Mazda dealership quoted me $100, so I went with my local tire shop.

[dentinger]

we charge an hour of labour ($87) at my canadian tire.
but its fairly easy to do yourself, if you mechanically inclined.

chances are, you'll have to take off the caliper and disc, but after that, hit it out, with a hammer (you wont damage anything, unless you hit one of the other studs lol), and pull the new one thru.
the techs i work with have special nuts for this, that are about 2-3 times longer than a normal nut, this way, the threads dont strip when your pulling the new stud thru.

once the back of the stud is even and flush with the hub, you're good to go.

EDIT: whoops. didnt realise how old this thread was. my bad.