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matt9
01-24-2009, 04:57 PM
I have tried to search the forum for a similar thread and I'm sure it exists, I just can't find it by searching "subwoofer noise", "subwoofer trunk" etc.

Essentially, my sub is in my trunk and if the volume gets past a certain volume, I hear a lot of rattling from the back causing the sub to not sound as good. The only way it goes away is if I open the trunk a bit, which either means its causing the inside of my trunk to rattle or by opening the trunk has caused the bass to not be as loud.

Has anyone done anything like this to remove any rattling caused by a sub so that you can get loud, smooth bass? Of course there is a point when you turn it up so loud that all sorts of parts of your car is vibrating. I don't mean THAT loud.

forbidden
01-24-2009, 05:23 PM
You need to look at multiple things here. The first is the skin of the metal iteself being a big gong. Add sound deadening to these panels, it works by adding mass to the panels and changing the resonant frequency. The second part of the equation is the plastic panels vibrating as well. Wherever they are making contact with something, add some trunkliner or carpet underlay. Trunkliner and sound deadener is available from specialty car audio shops. The last thing to look at and I highly doubt that this is your situation is loose trunk release springs, this is far more apparent in older gm vehicles or vehicles that use a lot of power on their subs. If the license plate is vibrating, get some sound deadener on it and secure it using all 4 bolts, not just the top two.

jaimie08mazda3
01-24-2009, 07:12 PM
for me its been my door handle lol. and the trunk madd rattles too. you can get sound deadining but its not gonna be cheap. prolly around 1-2k just for it including installation

VetalM3
01-24-2009, 08:28 PM
Yeap, I've got exactly the same problem :) Makes me wanna drive with the trunk open :loco

Thrizzl3
01-24-2009, 08:48 PM
my trunk doesn't rattle that much but the shelf behind the rear seat flexes like there is no tomorrow..i just reduce the amount of bass that comes out of the sub

VetalM3
01-24-2009, 08:57 PM
my trunk doesn't rattle that much but the shelf behind the rear seat flexes like there is no tomorrow..i just reduce the amount of bass that comes out of the sub

Its hard to figure out what particular part is rattling but I guess it is the shelf as well. We have to find another way rather then reducing the bass, why did we put the sub then ?

Thrizzl3
01-24-2009, 09:05 PM
Its hard to figure out what particular part is rattling but I guess it is the shelf as well. We have to find another way rather then reducing the bass, why did we put the sub then ?

i kno i love hearing bass but its only on the inside of the car..if your outside the car all you hear is rattling. i have to find something to replace the plastic. that is what is causing all the noise and rattle

S.F.W.
01-24-2009, 09:15 PM
Its hard to figure out what particular part is rattling but I guess it is the shelf as well. We have to find another way rather then reducing the bass, why did we put the sub then ?
the solution is to add sound deadening material. Something such as BQuiet. I used to have rattle in my car and trunk, but don't anymore.

matt9
01-24-2009, 09:42 PM
my trunk doesn't rattle that much but the shelf behind the rear seat flexes like there is no tomorrow..i just reduce the amount of bass that comes out of the sub

It could be the shelf as well since it creaks and cracks, but I figured it wasn't as bad because when I open my trunk like 3 inches, it seems to go away.

matt9
01-24-2009, 09:43 PM
the solution is to add sound deadening material. Something such as BQuiet. I used to have rattle in my car and trunk, but don't anymore.

How much did that run you? Also, is there meets or anything you go to that you could show me how it sounds and possible you listen to mine and see if you suspect the same thing?

Thrizzl3
01-24-2009, 10:01 PM
It could be the shelf as well since it creaks and cracks, but I figured it wasn't as bad because when I open my trunk like 3 inches, it seems to go away.

ya because you open the trunk so the air that the sub is pushing is escaping and there is less air hitting the trunk so thats why the rattle decreases when you open it

S.F.W.
01-24-2009, 10:35 PM
How much did that run you? Also, is there meets or anything you go to that you could show me how it sounds and possible you listen to mine and see if you suspect the same thing?
It cost me about $100. You need 25-30 feet. The best bet would be to split a roll with someone. As for meets, I don't attend that many in the winter, but I will be at the Audio Heaven meet Feb. 8th. Depending on where you are located, we may be able to meet outside of that..

3GFX
01-25-2009, 01:27 AM
Another potential issue I don't think I saw mentioned is rear deck which seems to be my issue (depending on the weather). Somehow were the glass meets the clips or something along that line there's an issue for vibrating noise, not only for those with a sub but for regular driving.

Something like this I'm not sure if its the same TSB: http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=28741

matt9
01-25-2009, 11:30 AM
It cost me about $100. You need 25-30 feet. The best bet would be to split a roll with someone. As for meets, I don't attend that many in the winter, but I will be at the Audio Heaven meet Feb. 8th. Depending on where you are located, we may be able to meet outside of that..

I'm not too much in a rush.

Whosit
01-25-2009, 11:38 AM
I just bought a roll of B-Quiet of a member her and plane first on doing my entire trunk since that's were the problems are worse then if I have enough left my doors. The B-quiet is ALOT cheaper than Dynamat and seems to perform just as good if not better from what I have read anyways.

matt9
01-25-2009, 11:47 AM
I just bought a roll of B-Quiet of a member her and plane first on doing my entire trunk since that's were the problems are worse then if I have enough left my doors. The B-quiet is ALOT cheaper than Dynamat and seems to perform just as good if not better from what I have read anyways.

After your done, post the results...

Whosit
01-25-2009, 11:50 AM
I can but won't know till spring as my car is away for the winter. I may bring it to work in the heated garage and do it but still wouldn't know the results as my stereo is in the process of being redone and don't have a head unit right now. Check out http://www.b-quiet.com I think they have reviews posted. Also Ask MYK on this board as he just did his car with this stuff.

Hives
01-25-2009, 08:52 PM
Yea, sound deadening does work, but it may not kill all the rattle. It depends on what sub you have and the bass it produces. The Mazda 3 is a "tin can". I've got my entire rear end triple layered in Dynamat, and it still rattles like crazy. Its prolly also b/c I have a pavement cracking system too lolll.

Whosit
01-25-2009, 08:54 PM
Yea, sound deadening does work, but it may not kill all the rattle. It depends on what sub you have and the bass it produces. The Mazda 3 is a "tin can". I've got my entire rear end triple layered in Dynamat, and it still rattles like crazy. Its prolly also b/c I have a pavement cracking system too lolll.

What do you consider a "pavement cracking system"?

matt9
01-25-2009, 09:47 PM
What do you consider a "pavement cracking system"?

Clearly a system so loud that it cracks pavement :P

Whosit
01-25-2009, 09:50 PM
I am just curious what he has for a system... I am doing a system in mine right now and wondering if I will have the same problems.

laksman91
01-26-2009, 01:10 AM
Clearly a system so loud that it cracks pavement :P

if it can crack the pavement it can crack your car :chuckle

Thrizzl3
01-26-2009, 01:21 AM
my old system set off car alarms when i drove past cars in a parking lot mind you the bass was so loud i couldn't hear myself speak:chuckle

Hives
01-26-2009, 02:01 PM
Yea, it sets off alarms too lolll. I also cracked my rear interior deck behind the rear seat, popped out the rear left reverse light, ummmm, broke the right side reflector on my rear bumper. My rear bumper on the sides is starting to come loose too. My trunk also popped open once on the 401 when I was really banging it out one day in the summer too.

VetalM3
01-26-2009, 03:05 PM
Yea, it sets off alarms too lolll. I also cracked my rear interior deck behind the rear seat, popped out the rear left reverse light, ummmm, broke the right side reflector on my rear bumper. My rear bumper on the sides is starting to come loose too. My trunk also popped open once on the 401 when I was really banging it out one day in the summer too.

What do you have ?

Hives
01-26-2009, 03:36 PM
2 12inch Fosgate P3s. The key here is to have a box fully built to specs buy someone who knows what they are doing =). I have personally seen a $200 sub in the proper box hit harder than a $350 sub in an incorrectly built box.

Whosit
01-26-2009, 04:09 PM
Come on now.... popped your trunk?????:whoa

Thrizzl3
01-26-2009, 04:48 PM
Come on now.... popped your trunk?????:whoa

its possible to pop your trunk with all the sound waves hitting it

matt9
01-26-2009, 07:19 PM
I find that if you're listening to the subs THAT loud, it sounds terrible, just for the reason that your car has all kinds of annoying things vibrating (including the trunk).

Whosit
01-26-2009, 07:22 PM
its possible to pop your trunk with all the sound waves hitting it

Well I'd have to see that.... I personally can't see how it would literally pop a properly closed trunk... I know alot is possible though... I remember shattering my rear window in a Dodge Daytona MANY years ago,,,,

Thrizzl3
01-26-2009, 07:24 PM
Well I'd have to see that.... I personally can't see how it would literally pop a properly closed trunk... I know alot is possible though... I remember shattering my rear window in a Dodge Daytona MANY years ago,,,,

so your saying its not possible for the trunk to pop open from all the vibrations?

Whosit
01-26-2009, 07:27 PM
I am not saying it is not possible... Just saying I find it hard to believe... But the more I think about it I suppose it could happen but would it not have to actually move the release mechanism which is spring loaded?

Thrizzl3
01-26-2009, 07:33 PM
basically..the system i have now gives moderate trunk rattle as the sub is underneath the rear shelf but i still hear when the bass hits the trunk and drains out the lyrics and thats with the seat up not folded down..now just imagine if it was folded down:chuckle

Hives
01-26-2009, 09:10 PM
I find that if you're listening to the subs THAT loud, it sounds terrible, just for the reason that your car has all kinds of annoying things vibrating (including the trunk).

Yea man, it does sound terrible since in a Mazda 3 sedan. You should've seen my car when I had only single layer of Dynamat, my roof was flexing hardcore.

I've seen windows shatter before. My old neighbour had 2 15" old school Cerwin Vega subs years ago in his Pathfinder, and that shattered his rear window. It was exciting too see lollll.

Regarding my trunk popping open, the Mazda 3 trunk latch isnt the best. After observing it, it looks kinda weak. With all the bass the subs produce rocking my trunk lid around like crazy overtime, the latch became loose on the trunk lid, which caused it to pop open. I fixed the problem, and has not occurred since then.

My buddy's 96 Accord has 2 12" Alpine Type X (hits 146.6db!), and his trunk has never flew open or had to tighten his latch, and he plays his music louder than I do when he drives lolll.

Ex-Rolla
01-31-2009, 01:26 PM
I used a crapload of This (http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=786) & some more of This (http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=51).

Solved almost all the rattles, except for the rear deck. I need to remove it, put some deadening material underneath it and re-install. Will do it in the summer though because of the risk of breaking/cracking the plastic in the cold.

VWisTROUBLE
02-11-2009, 12:17 AM
i had alot of rattling in my car as well and since i dont have the cash or patience to install sound deadening i just leave the bass low for now haha...
oh and the little cover for the trunk light (sedans) rattles like crazy...i removed it and the rattling has since decreased

Hives
02-11-2009, 12:51 AM
i had alot of rattling in my car as well and since i dont have the cash or patience to install sound deadening i just leave the bass low for now haha...
oh and the little cover for the trunk light (sedans) rattles like crazy...i removed it and the rattling has since decreased

Yea, that could work too. I left mines on though b/c it looks nice lolll

notoriousb
02-16-2009, 04:10 PM
2 12inch Fosgate P3s. The key here is to have a box fully built to specs buy someone who knows what they are doing =). I have personally seen a $200 sub in the proper box hit harder than a $350 sub in an incorrectly built box.

You mean the best buy system?

Thrizzl3
02-16-2009, 04:14 PM
my rear shelf rattles like theres no tomorrow now..i have to put something in between the shelf and the rear window to stop the rattle

lloydering
02-16-2009, 05:03 PM
my rear shelf rattles like theres no tomorrow now..i have to put something in between the shelf and the rear window to stop the rattle

HOW TO: Sedan Sub Owners - Get back Plastic peice out! (http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=17951.0)
Just need some double sided (3M or Carpet) tape.

gabbygenier
02-16-2009, 06:02 PM
put ur subs in sealed boxes haha. helps a lot

notoriousb
02-16-2009, 06:06 PM
I think bandpass boxes help the most with the rattle. It's like having another box inside of a box. However bandpass boxes are very inaccurate -- they don't sound really good musically.

gabbygenier
02-16-2009, 06:11 PM
i agree. i had a ported box tuned for the subs and got rid of it for 2 small sealed boxes. sounds way better. deeper bass. and less rattle. oh and i can actually turn it up without hurting my ears.

Hives
02-16-2009, 10:44 PM
You mean the best buy system?

lolll. Well Best Buy does carry P3s i think. They dun carry the amp I have though.

Hives
02-16-2009, 10:48 PM
I think bandpass boxes help the most with the rattle. It's like having another box inside of a box. However bandpass boxes are very inaccurate -- they don't sound really good musically.

Not all subs use bandpass boxes. Very hard to tune and build. There are computer programs used to design them for subs. There's a guy out in BC who uses one and builds some mint, mint boxes for any sub, and they hit so freaking hard.

360Spider
02-27-2009, 05:26 PM
Hey I figured since there is a thread going here I would throw some input into it. I have an 08.5 Sedan and I am currently on a mission to try and get that rear deck sealed down. I can't stand the amount of rattle that comes from that thing. The whole deck moves up and down too and the sad part is that even if I push down on it, there is just no way I can stop it from rattling. So, with that being said, I'm trying to remove that rear deck since it's pretty nice (temperature wise at least) outside right now. Yesterday I went up to a buddy's house and we started taking the inside apart until we got to the rear window trim pieces (which have to come out or the deck won't slide out). The problem I ran into is that when I started taking those trims off, I realized is actually an airbag module behind each of them. So... I obviously didn't go any further as seeing exposed airbag was not in the plans. Anyone think it would be safe to keep pulling those pieces off? I honestly just don't trust myself enough near those things to be messing around near them.

So yeah, I'm in quite a pickle here...

Thrizzl3
02-28-2009, 12:08 AM
Hey I figured since there is a thread going here I would throw some input into it. I have an 08.5 Sedan and I am currently on a mission to try and get that rear deck sealed down. I can't stand the amount of rattle that comes from that thing. The whole deck moves up and down too and the sad part is that even if I push down on it, there is just no way I can stop it from rattling. So, with that being said, I'm trying to remove that rear deck since it's pretty nice (temperature wise at least) outside right now. Yesterday I went up to a buddy's house and we started taking the inside apart until we got to the rear window trim pieces (which have to come out or the deck won't slide out). The problem I ran into is that when I started taking those trims off, I realized is actually an airbag module behind each of them. So... I obviously didn't go any further as seeing exposed airbag was not in the plans. Anyone think it would be safe to keep pulling those pieces off? I honestly just don't trust myself enough near those things to be messing around near them.

So yeah, I'm in quite a pickle here...

im pretty sure those modules are there for a reason but if i were you i wouldn't touch them. the rattle you hear is the plastic hitting the glass which is an annoyance but i got used to it

Hives
02-28-2009, 08:08 PM
im pretty sure those modules are there for a reason but if i were you i wouldn't touch them. the rattle you hear is the plastic hitting the glass which is an annoyance but i got used to it

Yea, i am used to it as well. Even if I ripped it out again and put more layers of Dynamat, the sound pressure would still force it upwards. I am thinking of cutting some sponge or something and forcing it in between somehow. Imma have to get creative :chuckle so that the plastic stops hitting the glass

Mty Mous
03-01-2009, 01:00 AM
Just thinking out loud here, so bare with me ...

All this rattling is related to the pressure waves created by the sub and being trapped in the trunk right? Has anyone tried opening\creating a pathway between the trunk and cabin? Guess an easy test would be to flip down the one of the seats and see what happens?

My car is only a day old, so I'll wait for atleast 6months before switching things up, but I was thinking I might open up the gap when the rearseat armrest is down, that should allow the sound waves to get into the cabin (or atleast I hope so) and reduce the sound pressure inside the trunk.

Then again, I'm done with with the mega power bass heavy setups, I'm more interested in SQ setups now. So hope I won't have as much issues to deal with.

My most likely setup would be a JL Audio stealth box (I have to listen to one and see if its enough), or 2 12" subs setup as Freeair pushing about 500rms.

Definitely plan on fully dynamating the interior, I know its labour intesive, but I already went through it on my last car ('92 Civic HB) and it took me 40~50hrs to complete, but it was well worth it!

Also have a Miata, and after carefully combing through every part of the trunk that rattled, and taking care of them one at a time, I can say its viturally non existant. But I have to admit it takes time, effort, and patience ... but well worth it. :) Oh, and the trunk is ported into the cabin which helps ... but that's gonna get redone next time I put her on the road.

Thrizzl3
03-01-2009, 08:18 AM
Just thinking out loud here, so bare with me ...

All this rattling is related to the pressure waves created by the sub and being trapped in the trunk right? Has anyone tried opening\creating a pathway between the trunk and cabin? Guess an easy test would be to flip down the one of the seats and see what happens?

Oh man when i put down my seat the bass is so much louder that i feel my teeth jitter (literally) i find that when the seat is up i don't hear much bass and my system sounds weak, but when the seat is down...:chucklei think im going deaf because of the all the bass

Hives
03-01-2009, 12:22 PM
Even with the seats folded, the rear deck still hits against the glass. It's cheap plastic, not much u can do with it.

Mty Mous
03-01-2009, 02:19 PM
Well, someone's gotta show me exactly where the rear panel is making contact with the rear window ... I think I might have some solutions for it, just have to see exactly how much gap\play there is.

Hives
03-01-2009, 03:32 PM
Well, someone's gotta show me exactly where the rear panel is making contact with the rear window ... I think I might have some solutions for it, just have to see exactly how much gap\play there is.

Imma try my sponge solution in Spring. Not sure if it's gonna work, but u never know. With the right amount of frustration and force, I could prolly wedge it in there :chuckle

thanu31
07-08-2009, 09:15 PM
anyone find a solution?

Thrizzl3
07-09-2009, 01:00 AM
i haven't yet..althogh i don't turn the bass that high anymore to cause it to rattle

Brookzee
07-17-2009, 08:05 PM
You mean the best buy system?

lol

I have 2 x clarion subs at 600rms each with a phoenix gold 1200w amp, and believe me these are underpowered...but with sony xplode they pound

Shotta-KB
08-25-2009, 05:37 PM
I know quite a few of us has this issue and Mty Mous showed me a deadening material that is superb I think its some Dynomat or something like that it is called where the backing is like tar and u slap that on in your trunk under the spare and under the liners....It made a BIIIIIIIIIIG improvement. I'd have to find out where he gets it cause I have that issue too...

thanu31
08-26-2009, 02:19 PM
u gotta help me with this thuva!

Hives
08-26-2009, 06:50 PM
where the rear window is and the rear deck meet inside, I stuffed two socks under there, and it helps reduce the flapping noise.

deandai
09-30-2009, 05:11 PM
is it possible to remove the plastic in your car to be more specific the one behind the rear seats?

mazdaskit
09-30-2009, 05:20 PM
Has anyone yet stopped that stuiped plastic cover behind the back seats from rattling like pop corn lol

Fuel90
09-30-2009, 08:10 PM
hahah well...yes. I took it out lol. I havn't had mine in the car for almost 4 years now hahah....and dynamat on the top and underside of that rear deck as well as most of the trunk. I just put some black fabric across the back deck instead of that plastic panel...It actually increases how much I can see out the back window too lol. It wouldn't look 1/2 bad but I butchered the rear quarter plastic pieces trying to install lights...so they are bare metal :S... I'm ver used to it now though haha

deandai
09-30-2009, 08:16 PM
howd you do it jsut it jsut come off or you had to break it off?

Fuel90
10-01-2009, 10:17 AM
I don't actually remember the details...being so long ago. There were just alot of clips and things...seat belts had to be unhooked too. Just very methodically remove every clip etc you see and then go from there...start figuring what clips there are! I'm sure someone has a shop manual that says how somewhere...

Sorry I can't be of more help...but literally 4 years ago! ....I should mention I don't have rear airbags so I had nothing to fear....

mazdaskit
10-06-2009, 04:52 PM
Just to see if anyone has done this yet the best way to stop that plastic piece behind the seat to stop rattling.. Do you think that poly white stuff in speaker boxes would work to stop some or most of it

Thrizzl3
10-06-2009, 10:50 PM
aside from the rattle..what can i put behind my rear view mirror to stop it from falling off my windshield lol...the bass isn't even loud and it still comes loose

Mty Mous
10-06-2009, 11:46 PM
tightening the rear view mirror is easy, just tighten up the screw where the rear view mirror slides onto the windshield. done! :)

Thrizzl3
10-07-2009, 12:01 AM
tightening the rear view mirror is easy, just tighten up the screw where the rear view mirror slides onto the windshield. done! :)
is this for the windshields with the rain sensor because mine doesn't have one

Mty Mous
10-07-2009, 09:45 AM
I haven't taken a close look at a non-rainsensor windshield but I'd assume they're all the same (in regards to how the rear view mirror is mounted).

The windshield should come with a lil metal piece glued or molded onto the glass, and then your rear view mirror unit slides over it, there's a lil screw that puts pressure against the rear view mirror unit and the metal piece of the windshield.
If this screw is loosened, it'll allow you to completely slide the rear view mirror off the windshield, but if its not tight enough (only snug is enough) then your rear view mirror would be wobbly.

Its been a while since I had to look at that screw, but I'm guessing you'll need a phillips head screw driver (hope you have a stubby phillips screw driver to make life easier).

Mty Mous
10-07-2009, 09:51 AM
u gotta help me with this thuva!

just saw this post ... remind me next spring ... not a big fan of playing with plastic trim panels when the temp is cool like nowadays cause things tend to get more prone to cracking.
i found the instructions to removing the rear parcel shelf and I'll be doing just that next spring\summer (unless we get a few hot\warm days before winter).

Thrizzl3
10-07-2009, 09:54 AM
I haven't taken a close look at a non-rainsensor windshield but I'd assume they're all the same (in regards to how the rear view mirror is mounted).

The windshield should come with a lil metal piece glued or molded onto the glass, and then your rear view mirror unit slides over it, there's a lil screw that puts pressure against the rear view mirror unit and the metal piece of the windshield.
If this screw is loosened, it'll allow you to completely slide the rear view mirror off the windshield, but if its not tight enough (only snug is enough) then your rear view mirror would be wobbly.

Its been a while since I had to look at that screw, but I'm guessing you'll need a phillips head screw driver (hope you have a stubby phillips screw driver to make life easier).

i will try this later today thanks broski:)

mazdaskit
10-07-2009, 10:50 AM
aside from the rattle..what can i put behind my rear view mirror to stop it from falling off my windshield lol...the bass isn't even loud and it still comes loose

Lots & Lots of crazy glue lol :chuckle

Thrizzl3
10-07-2009, 04:28 PM
Lots & Lots of crazy glue lol :chuckle

i didn't need crazy glue..i found out that theres a clip on the rearview mirror that latches to the metal holder. clipped it on and it doesn't even budge:winner

Mty Mous
10-07-2009, 05:17 PM
a clip? hmm, mine's a screw, in any case, glad you sorted that out ...
Now Crank that shit up bro ... I can't hear nuffin!