View Full Version : WTF? Clutch???
Tsirpas
02-23-2009, 03:54 PM
Yesterday I was on the 401, and I downshifted from 5th, to 3rd, to 2nd
and boom my car shuddered. The clutch was stuck down (it wasn't bouncing back) and there was no way I could shift it into gear. So $100 later I get it towed to the mazda dealership. I call them this morning and the JOKE tells me it's $99.00 to LOOK at it, and IF it's under my warranty than it'll be free.
1) Mazda has to be the worst dealerships of ANY car company, (but being part of ford what do you expect)
2) This warranty sounds like a load of shit, because there's alot of times where I've brought the car in assuming it's under the warranty (Cause any other normal car company does cover these problems under their warranty) and it's not.
3) I've bitched at 3 different dealerships, and made sure I didn't pay a cent, or ever went back.
4) Mazda is by far the WORSE car company EVER and will never see my business again.
But, anyone know what the problem might be? I'm sure it's involved with either the clutch fork, or maybe the disc...
Unoriginalusername
02-23-2009, 04:02 PM
how many km's do you have? a clutch is a wear and tear item like a set of tires, and will only be replaced in some cases no matter which manufacturer you are dealing with.
If you are outside the bumper to bumper warranty period, this very likely will be an out of pocket expense.
Judging by the sound of your tone there will be no making you happy.. there are plenty of brands with worse quality and dealer experiences. Mazda happens to rate very well against competitive products, so best of luck with your next car
Accessing a clutch is very difficult and time/labour intensive... I don't see a huge issue with their request, you chose to tow it there... if you don't like it tow it to a different dealer that is willing to take a look.
Xerox
02-23-2009, 04:10 PM
it's $99.00 to LOOK at it, and IF it's under my warranty than it'll be free.
Isn't that how all manufacturers/repair shops operate? (of course rates will differ)
So you want them to diagnose the problem for free?
Perhaps your impression of taking a "LOOK" at the problem differs from the time and work that is actually required, hence the cost?
How fast were you going when you dropped the clutch in 2nd?
Gizzmo_jr
02-23-2009, 04:37 PM
How fast were you going when you dropped the clutch in 2nd?Good point, if the OP were doing close to 100km/h like they should be, third should be approaching redline. At second gear, did you pop out the clutch or ease it out?
Soyabean
02-23-2009, 04:43 PM
How fast were you going when you dropped the clutch in 2nd?
yea, like 2nd would be at like 6000rpm at 60km/hr or close to there? I'd downshift to 3rd if anything but 2 is a little risky
Aitch
02-23-2009, 04:53 PM
Ok I'm going to play defense here because we've seen a few dealer-bashing posts recently and IMO you guys might be jumping all over Tsirpas prematurely.
It sounds like he's pretty cheesed off (understandably when your clutch gives out unexpectedly) so let's analyze the situation. He didn't say he was doing 100-120 when he downshifted to 2nd; chances are he was slowing down and downshifting like many of us do (myself included). That's when the clutch went. Yes, a sudden clutch failure suggests a hard downshift or some other abuse, but no one said he went into 2nd at 100km/hr.
Anyway, having said that, if it is the clutch (i.e. pressure plate or friction disc) then it is wear-and-tear and you'll have a hard time getting it warrantied. As you mentioned, the pedal is stuck down, which suggests it may be a spring in the pressure plate which is gone.
However, if it was something in the transmission that caused it, that would be more likely covered under warranty, assuming you're still within the km's. Lastly, others are also correct in that the costs are appropriate; sitting in the car and noting that the clutch pedal is stuck down is cheap, but taking out the transmission to get to the clutch is not.
kevcol74
02-23-2009, 04:59 PM
Sounds to me like he blew a clutch line, or the master or slave cyilnder kicked it....If he blew the clutch plate, he'd have constant neutral. The fact that he can't get it into a gear leads me to believe the pressure plate is engaged. (unless I'm miss understanding "can't get it into gear", assuming he can't get it to go into a gate)
Or quite simply, the lever/rod disconnected from the pedal brace!
Aitch
02-23-2009, 05:10 PM
^^ true, that makes sense about the pressure plate being engaged.
FLIPDADY
02-23-2009, 06:17 PM
Maybe some extra info on your car would help. Like the mileage wether it's new or used? I've seen clutches go as early as 30,000km.
Malcolm991
02-23-2009, 06:21 PM
Have you ever heard the expression (Time is money)
Donutz
02-23-2009, 07:29 PM
yea, like 2nd would be at like 6000rpm at 60km/hr or close to there? I'd downshift to 3rd if anything but 2 is a little risky
4100 at 60 in 2nd for me.
Tsirpas
02-23-2009, 08:47 PM
Details:
I was reducing my speed to get onto the onramp, so I was doing 120 downshifted to 3rd, slowed to 80 downshifted to 2 and than POP.
It's a 2006 (August) with 64,000 Km's.
If you're telling me it's NORMAL for a (less than) 3 year old car with 100,000 km's to blow a clutch. It clearly speaks for all mazda cars/products.
And for the rates, my friend owns a hyundai, they NEVER charged him for ANYTHING that they had to LOOK at.
He had to get his radio replaced, it costed him NOTHING to look at, and $50.00 to replace the radio.
Tsirpas
02-23-2009, 08:48 PM
*less than 100,000 kms (64,000)
+ I haggled those morons down to $50.00 to "look" at it.
They quoted me (if not warrantied) 1200.00 for a new clutch system (inc. labour)
Unoriginalusername
02-23-2009, 09:02 PM
*less than 100,000 kms (64,000)
+ I haggled those morons down to $50.00 to "look" at it.
They quoted me (if not warrantied) 1200.00 for a new clutch system (inc. labour)
100,000km and three years won't likely be a warranty item... just so you don't feel bad, my toyota matrix xrs went through several clutches before 100k as did many owners of that same model. Just incase you think Toyota is better for example, anyways i hope that somehow it is a warrantied item and that price is actually really good for a clutch replacement all in
Tsirpas
02-23-2009, 09:06 PM
It's 64,000 km not 100,000 km, I'm just saying, maybe the toyota was a lemon? But my mazda is starting to look like a ripe lemon... :(
Unoriginalusername
02-23-2009, 09:07 PM
It's 64,000 km not 100,000 km, I'm just saying, maybe the toyota was a lemon? But my mazda is starting to look like a ripe lemon... :(
oh sorry i miss read your last post, so hopefully it is covered. That toyota along with most every other xrs was a lemon clutch wise. Fingers crossed that it is covered for you
Details:
I was reducing my speed to get onto the onramp, so I was doing 120 downshifted to 3rd, slowed to 80 downshifted to 2 and than POP.
It's a 2006 (August) with 64,000 Km's.
If you're telling me it's NORMAL for a (less than) 3 year old car with 100,000 km's to blow a clutch. It clearly speaks for all mazda cars/products.
And for the rates, my friend owns a hyundai, they NEVER charged him for ANYTHING that they had to LOOK at.
He had to get his radio replaced, it costed him NOTHING to look at, and $50.00 to replace the radio.
I am assuming you bought this car used? how do you know if the previous owner new how to drive standard? it could have been abused by the owner before you...
bluemazda3
02-23-2009, 09:18 PM
isnt downshifting to 3rd at 120km/h a little hard on the engine?
Donutz
02-23-2009, 09:29 PM
Those are pretty high speeds to drop to those gears, but I would think if you match your rev's properly the clutch 'should' hold up. I imagine 80 Km shifting 3rd to 2nd would put you somewhere around 6000 rpm. At 70-80, I'm usually going 4th to 3rd on the highway.
Nonetheless, it's a crappy situation. Good luck dude. Let us know how it goes with the dealership.
isnt downshifting to 3rd at 120km/h a little hard on the engine?
yes
Malcolm991
02-23-2009, 09:30 PM
isnt downshifting to 3rd at 120km/h a little hard on the engine?
Just the engine?
Unoriginalusername
02-23-2009, 09:35 PM
isnt downshifting to 3rd at 120km/h a little hard on the engine?
if you rev match its different than just dumping the clutch, and i don't think he said anywhere that he was going that fast
bluemazda3
02-23-2009, 09:40 PM
he said he was doing 120km/h than downshifted to 3rd on his previous post..
gonzo25
02-23-2009, 09:42 PM
I think shifting into second at eighty in what seemed to be a regular driving istuation explains why you are having a problem with your clutch. Even with rev matching it is still a little hard on the entire drivetrain. I am inclined to think you just threw it into second gear.
I would not see this as mazda's fault, it is borderline abuse.
bluemazda3
02-23-2009, 09:44 PM
I think shifting into second at eighty in what seemed to be a regular driving istuation explains why you are having a problem with your clutch. Even with rev matching it is still a little hard on the entire drivetrain. I am inclined to think you just threw it into second gear.
I would not see this as mazda's fault, it is borderline abuse.
thats what i was thinking too....
gabbygenier
02-23-2009, 09:47 PM
*less than 100,000 kms (64,000)
+ I haggled those morons down to $50.00 to "look" at it.
They quoted me (if not warrantied) 1200.00 for a new clutch system (inc. labour)
thats what it cost me last year to replace mine when it blew. but my issue was a bit diff. i stopped at a red light with the brakes at the end. didnt even go into first. and then went to take off again. and it was like i was not pressing the clutch at all. all gears were "grinding"
mazdas3sporte
02-23-2009, 10:01 PM
Yesterday I was on the 401, and I downshifted from 5th, to 3rd, to 2nd
and boom my car shuddered. The clutch was stuck down (it wasn't bouncing back) and there was no way I could shift it into gear. So $100 later I get it towed to the mazda dealership. I call them this morning and the JOKE tells me it's $99.00 to LOOK at it, and IF it's under my warranty than it'll be free.
1) Mazda has to be the worst dealerships of ANY car company, (but being part of ford what do you expect)
.
Seems like iam not the only person that thinks this.. AMAZING, the b.s mazda dealerships give people is simply amazing. There is only one dealership u should deal with and that is Oakville mazda, one and only
gonzo25
02-23-2009, 10:04 PM
What BS exactly? It basically sounds like he grenaded his clutch. All that has happened so far is they are charging him 50$ for the technicians time to diagnose the problem. Sounds reasonable. But we know how you are 3sporte...
Tsirpas
02-23-2009, 10:20 PM
Honestly I've heard Oakville Mazda is the best dealership (Mazda-wise) to deal with. But from what I've experienced from the rest is they're all friggin sharks. And it's like Mazda brainwashes their workers into scammy scum-bags and than those guys brainwash customers into thinking they're the greatest thing that's ever happened to them, and try to justify their rediculous prices with a bunch of bull-crap.
gonzo25
02-23-2009, 10:31 PM
50 dollars to look at a car that will not move......sounds like an alright deal to me
condor888000
02-23-2009, 10:35 PM
Tsirpas, can you tell us how fast you were going when you shifted into second?
Cardinal Fang
02-23-2009, 10:39 PM
According to his post:
Details:
I was reducing my speed to get onto the onramp, so I was doing 120 downshifted to 3rd, slowed to 80 downshifted to 2 and than POP.
Houndskull
02-23-2009, 10:50 PM
According to his post:
i could understand downshifting to 4th but 3rd at 120k/h? why? breaks doesnt work?
condor888000
02-23-2009, 11:25 PM
Thanks Fang.
80 and shifting into second seems rather high to me. Odds are your clutch was on the way out and that killed it. Not Mazda's fault, the clutch is a wear item, so I really don't understand why you expect them to warranty it. Especially as you really have no idea how the clutch was treated beforehand, seeing as it looks like you bought the car used.
According to his post:
Odd, that post didn't seem show when I clicked new post. Weird. Or I just missed it.
coyote
02-24-2009, 12:25 AM
If that's how you normally drive, then I would say you should be calling around to different garages and asking them how much to replace a clutch. I would guess some places would do it for around $800.
Tsirpas
02-24-2009, 12:34 AM
Um shifting to second when it's going down from 80 isn't that bad.
If a car's engine can't take that, than it speaks for the car's quality all together. I'm not sure why people are siding with Mazda on this one, maybe cause you're all dealers or work for dealerships? But anyways, any normal person will tell you that downshifting is 100x better than using your breaks.
Xerox
02-24-2009, 12:56 AM
Um shifting to second when it's going down from 80 isn't that bad.
If a car's engine can't take that, than it speaks for the car's quality all together. I'm not sure why people are siding with Mazda on this one, maybe cause you're all dealers or work for dealerships? But anyways, any normal person will tell you that downshifting is 100x better than using your breaks.
Compression is a beautiful thing but I think it all depends under what conditions and how you apply engine braking. Engine braking isn't always better than using your actual brakes, which seem to be what you are implying.
I take advantage of engine braking mainly to maintain a certain speed but I don't use it as my main force for stopping.
I'd rather use my brakes for what they are designed and wear my pads and rotors than put excessive strain on my motor, clutch, engine mounts, etc. (of course stress on these components can be reduced by downshifting correctly but cost to replace/service those components are more costly).
Um shifting to second when it's going down from 80 isn't that bad.
If a car's engine can't take that, than it speaks for the car's quality all together. I'm not sure why people are siding with Mazda on this one, maybe cause you're all dealers or work for dealerships? But anyways, any normal person will tell you that downshifting is 100x better than using your breaks.
You must understand that if you don't know how to drive standard you can wreak your clutch......and since you did not own it from new then you have no idea how much abuse the clutch has seen over the years...
Quick question would you happen to be related to mazda3sporte???
Tsirpas
02-24-2009, 01:43 AM
Lol no to aristeidis. And I see your point, I don't know who the previous owner was (it was off a lease when I purchased it). But I don't use my clutch to stop, I use it to slow down, up to around 60/kmh and than I use brakes. But w/e I'll se tmrw what ends up happening from the mazda estimate.
Cosmo77
02-24-2009, 08:32 AM
Um shifting to second when it's going down from 80 isn't that bad.
If a car's engine can't take that, than it speaks for the car's quality all together. I'm not sure why people are siding with Mazda on this one, maybe cause you're all dealers or work for dealerships? But anyways, any normal person will tell you that downshifting is 100x better than using your breaks.
After This comment do you not think that brakes are 100% cheaper than clutch disc's?
Yes downshifting is better then braking....if your conserving your brakes at the 12 hours of Mosport
bubba1983
02-24-2009, 08:53 AM
why can't we have jake brakes in these cars dammit.....gah...
condor888000
02-24-2009, 09:41 AM
Um shifting to second when it's going down from 80 isn't that bad.
In my car the revs are getting high at those speeds, I generally don't do it so I can't tell you exactly how high. I try not to downshift into second unless I'm at 50 or below.
If a car's engine can't take that, than it speaks for the car's quality all together.
Do you understand the issue? Your engine is fine, it's the clutch which seems pooched. The clutch is a wear item, as such when it goes you can't expect it to be warrantied.
I'm not sure why people are siding with Mazda on this one, maybe cause you're all dealers or work for dealerships?
Yes, all dealership/Mazda Canada employee's have nothing better to do than come here to argue with you. :bana
But anyways, any normal person will tell you that downshifting is 100x better than using your breaks.
Not really, neither is better than the other. They both involve wear items which will eventually need to be replaced. If done incorrectly(improper or no rev-matching, downshifting at too high a speed), downshifting is harder on the car than hitting the brakes would be. Best case you shorten the life of your clutch. If you're not lucky, your clutch will go. And if you're REALLY unlucky, you'll over-rev the engine and float a valve.
Remember, the clutch is not designed to slow the car. It's something which it can do, but it's not it's real job. Brakes are easier to do, cheaper, and are designed to slow the car, why not use them all the time?
Honestly, there is nothing wrong with what Mazda is doing, and there is nothing wrong with the 3's design. It does suck for you, but thats life man, stuff can't always go your way.
Tsirpas
02-24-2009, 01:14 PM
So Mazda called me today, turns out it is the clutch. And it will cost me $1200.00, so if anyone has an extra 1200.00 laying around they can lend me I'd appreciate it! :-D
...*cries*
kevcol74
02-24-2009, 01:20 PM
Start rolling up the rims to win man!!
Sorry about the news, unfortunately now you know how it was driven previously....
Soyabean
02-24-2009, 01:28 PM
Um shifting to second when it's going down from 80 isn't that bad.
.
Downshifting to 2nd at 80 isn't that great either. Remember, our mazdas arent hondas with low end torque. Torque is gained around 4000rpm so our engines dont need to be reved so high.
Jeff0
02-24-2009, 02:25 PM
I think standard owners should know for the limit of speed before to downshift, because in auto using sport mode it won't allow you to downshift in a certain high speed...
Aitch
02-24-2009, 03:12 PM
So Mazda called me today, turns out it is the clutch. And it will cost me $1200.00, so if anyone has an extra 1200.00 laying around they can lend me I'd appreciate it! :-D
...*cries*
I'm guessing you're not too mechanically experienced (no offense meant), or I would say do it yourself (with friends). Or perhaps see about having a transmission shop do it? Perhaps lower shop rates.
kevcol74
02-24-2009, 03:16 PM
I'm guessing you're not too mechanically experienced (no offense meant), or I would say do it yourself (with friends). Or perhaps see about having a transmission shop do it? Perhaps lower shop rates.
+1 I'd be doing it myself, but second I would be calling tranny shops, or worst case local garages. If you do it yourself, expect to be out of commission for a couple days as you will need the flywheel machined!
x_o_k_x
02-24-2009, 03:39 PM
you dont have racing clutch so why would you downshift like that?
Best thing is to brake and downshift to rev match.
Donutz
02-24-2009, 05:26 PM
Remember, our mazdas arent hondas with low end torque. Torque is gained around 4000rpm so our engines dont need to be reved so high.
I was thinking the same; with a b28c5 or k20 you would be okay.
I would also search places like kijiji and wreckers. You might be able to find a used one at a decent price. Or take this opporunity to install a light weight fly wheel and stage 1 clutch.
Houndskull
02-24-2009, 09:02 PM
thats sux dude im sorry. hopefully everything works out though. ask guys from here coz when i was over at street performance last year they wer just putting a clutch ina speed3 if u got the money to but a new aftermarket clutch and call jimmy if he can install it.
Sean80
02-24-2009, 09:36 PM
That sucks man... it will be worth it to shop around. If you drive like that all the time you should probably consider a beefed up sport clutch that can handle the abuse. Remember this is a Mazda3, not a high end sports car.
Aitch
02-25-2009, 12:53 AM
Um shifting to second when it's going down from 80 isn't that bad.
If a car's engine can't take that, than it speaks for the car's quality all together. I'm not sure why people are siding with Mazda on this one, maybe cause you're all dealers or work for dealerships? But anyways, any normal person will tell you that downshifting is 100x better than using your breaks.
This was on my mind tonight driving home. I rev-match and downshift all the time, but 80km/h into 2nd seemed excessive to me. I usually go into 4th first when hitting the on ramp, then down into 3rd when getting to 75 or so only when I'm being more aggressive (not usual). Usually only 3rd when getting down to 60. Anyway.
80km/h in 2nd seems to equate to about 5100rpm for me (give or take). When red-line is at 6500, being that high on a regular basis seems excessive. Sure, the compression of the engine at that speed helps slow the car, but as Sean80 mentioned, its not a race car or even a Lamborghini. Its an economy car. I don't care what brand you drive, at these price-points I would call it excessive stress on the engine and not expect it to hold up indefinitely. And sorry, but to me that is indicative of the overall driving style.
It sucks hard that you have to put out money for a new clutch. I was in a similar situation with my Protege5's brakes when they went, because of improper maintenance (past owner, but partially my fault too). Its in part because of my experience with that car that I drive the way I do - I don't have the money to treat my car as expendable. Everyone has their comfort level with what their car's mechanicals can reliably sustain - my feeling is that you have a much different comfort level than me.
Just had to put in my two cents.
This was on my mind tonight driving home. I rev-match and downshift all the time, but 80km/h into 2nd seemed excessive to me. I usually go into 4th first when hitting the on ramp, then down into 3rd when getting to 75 or so only when I'm being more aggressive (not usual). Usually only 3rd when getting down to 60. Anyway.
80km/h in 2nd seems to equate to about 5100rpm for me (give or take). When red-line is at 6500, being that high on a regular basis seems excessive. Sure, the compression of the engine at that speed helps slow the car, but as Sean80 mentioned, its not a race car or even a Lamborghini. Its an economy car. I don't care what brand you drive, at these price-points I would call it excessive stress on the engine and not expect it to hold up indefinitely. And sorry, but to me that is indicative of the overall driving style.
It sucks hard that you have to put out money for a new clutch. I was in a similar situation with my Protege5's brakes when they went, because of improper maintenance (past owner, but partially my fault too). Its in part because of my experience with that car that I drive the way I do - I don't have the money to treat my car as expendable. Everyone has their comfort level with what their car's mechanicals can reliably sustain - my feeling is that you have a much different comfort level than me.
Just had to put in my two cents.
Well said
Terrible3
02-25-2009, 01:15 AM
I think shifting into second at eighty in what seemed to be a regular driving istuation explains why you are having a problem with your clutch. Even with rev matching it is still a little hard on the entire drivetrain. I am inclined to think you just threw it into second gear.
I would not see this as mazda's fault, it is borderline abuse.
Yea really!
I downshift and/or heel toe every chance I can get, but never like that. Putting that car into 2ed at that speed leads me to believe that you abuse your clutch, engine and tranny on a normal basis. 80km into 2ed is a pretty demanding shift and rev match. I think on my car 80km = 5,500-6,000 rpm ( I may be off a little, but forgive me for not revving the piss out of my new car) so that's very close to redline. Why would you be wanting to make these shifts, and why were you making them in every day driving?
Honestly when slowing down from highway speeds I always go through all the gears rather than skipping into 2. I only blip down into 2 when I am going below 60 (most of the time 35-55). In the evet of an off ramp why did you not shift down to 4th, then into 3ed at 80-90 and then into 2ed at 50-60? The highway is not a race tack, I can see no point in shifting like you did.
x_o_k_x
02-25-2009, 02:03 AM
Also I would like to mention, check kijiji, sometimes people part out mazda3 that are wrecked. You might get lucky.
Enough with lessons people, I think he learned his lesson the seccond his tranny popped. Just let us know what you find and fix.
Tsirpas
02-25-2009, 03:14 AM
Mazda (dufferin) made a speedy install and I got them to give me a half decent price!
I got the car back today, and they started working on it at 12, and by 5 it was ready to go.
What's good is, (my flywheel also needed to be machined) and the entire new clutch kit + labour and taxes in came out to 1270.00.
And a 5 hour install, I'm happy she's back, and this new clutch feels NOTHING like my old one, so definatly was the previous owner, because when I got the car I thought the clutch was supposed to feel like that, and once I got in her today and felt the new clutch I was like wtf.
The fact is I learned to drive stick on this car, the first day I bought her off the lot I didn't know A THING about driving manual, so in one sense I sorta had it coming to me, but what was added as well is that the previous owner seemed to have effed the clutch up already. And according to it's service records, before the lease was returned it was due for a new clutch, so it was partly the previous owners, and partly mazda's fault on that part. But anyways this clutch'll do for now, definatly in the market looking for a speed/racing performance clutch that's a little heavier duty for my style of driving. Which is unfortunatly a high speed/high gas wasting style. (I feel like I have to race every honda or volkswagen I see) :(
Olestra
02-25-2009, 05:55 AM
I'm really sorry to be a huge jerk but this thread is laughable.
A. You come in here crying foul that a dealership owes you warranty work and that Mazda is the worst company ever.
B. You detail how you like to downshift at ridiculous highway speeds.
C. You admit that you drive your car hard, you already anticipate needing a heavier duty clutch after getting a 1200 dollar replacement and you finish the thread off with how you like to race other cars.
Nobody to blame but yourself. Pay to play.
One lesson to take out of this, since it seems like you'll continue your driving style, is learn how to downshift properly and learn your car's RPMs. Ie. 2000RPM in 4th = 40km/h, 2000 RPM in 5th = 60km/h.
Learn throttle control. Your blips should move your engine speed around 1500-2000 rpm intervals. That should accomodate your single gear downshifts. However, if you're doing 5th-2nd gear down shifts, you may need a few throttle blips or learn to do it in a single blip.
Mazda (dufferin) made a speedy install and I got them to give me a half decent price!
I got the car back today, and they started working on it at 12, and by 5 it was ready to go.
What's good is, (my flywheel also needed to be machined) and the entire new clutch kit + labour and taxes in came out to 1270.00.
And a 5 hour install, I'm happy she's back, and this new clutch feels NOTHING like my old one, so definatly was the previous owner, because when I got the car I thought the clutch was supposed to feel like that, and once I got in her today and felt the new clutch I was like wtf.
The fact is I learned to drive stick on this car, the first day I bought her off the lot I didn't know A THING about driving manual, so in one sense I sorta had it coming to me, but what was added as well is that the previous owner seemed to have effed the clutch up already. And according to it's service records, before the lease was returned it was due for a new clutch, so it was partly the previous owners, and partly mazda's fault on that part. But anyways this clutch'll do for now, definatly in the market looking for a speed/racing performance clutch that's a little heavier duty for my style of driving. Which is unfortunatly a high speed/high gas wasting style. (I feel like I have to race every honda or volkswagen I see) :(
Let me reword this then. Smarten up your driving before you kill an innocent person. Thank you.
Terrible3
02-25-2009, 10:01 AM
Sorry to have to pipe in here, but its people like you that make Insurance so high for the rest of us :flaming
Yea really! Racing every Honda and VW is what makes renewing my insurance a dreaded affair. Why should I be punished for the asshats who think they are Vin Diesel? Perhaps Tsirpas should learn to drive stick properly and reduce his highway speeds to 100-105kph. I am really grinding my teeth right now over this kids logic. Honestly he should have bought a civic rather than ruing the reputation of the 3.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZUDDsVUq48
Cardinal Fang
02-25-2009, 10:05 AM
Before this thread goes on a "tangerine" let me remind you that the thread topic being this persons clutch and driving style. We're not talking about insurance. There are plenty of threads on the topic of insurance so lets keep this on topic please.
And a 5 hour install, I'm happy she's back, and this new clutch feels NOTHING like my old one, so definatly was the previous owner, because when I got the car I thought the clutch was supposed to feel like that, and once I got in her today and felt the new clutch I was like wtf.(
Glad to see its working for you now.
Good thing to do before even driving off for a test drive is to slowly lift the clutch to see where it catches and starts moving. if it's really high, you probably have a dying clutch.
[also semitangentally, i dont have a manual car yet but I got lessons with Shifters and they've proven really valuable to knowing what im doing with an M/T car.]
condor888000
02-25-2009, 11:42 AM
:pop
Tsirpas
02-25-2009, 03:17 PM
I'm really sorry to be a huge jerk but this thread is laughable.
A. You come in here crying foul that a dealership owes you warranty work and that Mazda is the worst company ever.
B. You detail how you like to downshift at ridiculous highway speeds.
C. You admit that you drive your car hard, you already anticipate needing a heavier duty clutch after getting a 1200 dollar replacement and you finish the thread off with how you like to race other cars.
Nobody to blame but yourself. Pay to play.
One lesson to take out of this, since it seems like you'll continue your driving style, is learn how to downshift properly and learn your car's RPMs. Ie. 2000RPM in 4th = 40km/h, 2000 RPM in 5th = 60km/h.
Learn throttle control. Your blips should move your engine speed around 1500-2000 rpm intervals. That should accomodate your single gear downshifts. However, if you're doing 5th-2nd gear down shifts, you may need a few throttle blips or learn to do it in a single blip.
As I admitted, I'm a begginer at driving manual, I'm no shumacer... And as for me getting mad, like I said and the dealer said the clutch was partly my fault the car was due for a new clutch before I even bought it! And I'm still learning, anyways for all the rest of haters saying "slow down" my reply is "move over grandpa".
Tsirpas
02-25-2009, 03:21 PM
I know cardinal fang just said to keep it on topic but as for insurance. I'M the one paying 350.00 a month, so it's my perogative as to my driving style. My mom pays 80.00 a month, so theoretically, you're insurance rates really have nothing to do with me, so smarten up a bit.
Aitch
02-25-2009, 03:28 PM
As I admitted, I'm a begginer at driving manual, I'm no shumacer... And as for me getting mad, like I said and the dealer said the clutch was partly my fault the car was due for a new clutch before I even bought it! And I'm still learning, anyways for all the rest of haters saying "slow down" my reply is "move over grandpa".
If you're still learning, make sure you're properly rev-matching on downshifts regardless of what RPMs you're doing it at. Not rev-matching essentially doubles the wear and tear on your clutch as the friction surfaces are working each and every time to bring the engine speed up to match the wheelspeed. This is even more important if you do continue to downshift at high speeds and the clutch has to do the work to bring the engine up to 5000+rpms.
Its up to you how you drive, I personally don't care if you want to race everyone else on the road. Like you said, I move over and let you deal with any consequences (tickets, damage etc). I still drive aggressively from time to time, but more often than not I'm the grandpa on the road :)
kevcol74
02-25-2009, 03:31 PM
As I admitted, I'm a begginer at driving manual, I'm no shumacer... And as for me getting mad, like I said and the dealer said the clutch was partly my fault the car was due for a new clutch before I even bought it! And I'm still learning, anyways for all the rest of haters saying "slow down" my reply is "move over grandpa".
Informed the car was due for a clutch, and a beginner with stick, and YOU bought the car... then you wanted to blame Mazda.
Keep driving like an :AH because you just contradicted yourself throughout the thread... = FAIL!
gonzo25
02-25-2009, 03:31 PM
Move over Grandpa? I am sure you will be singing a different tune when driving like an ******* injures somebody. It is only a matter of time with morons like you.
mazdas3sporte
02-25-2009, 03:47 PM
You must understand that if you don't know how to drive standard you can wreak your clutch......and since you did not own it from new then you have no idea how much abuse the clutch has seen over the years...
Quick question would you happen to be related to mazda3sporte???
HAHAHA, such a comedian u, dont be hating cause someone else sees the problems with mazda dealers!
Tsirpas
02-25-2009, 03:50 PM
I didn't mean to offend others, but if you're hating on me for no apparent reason. Alot of the guys on here sound like the guys cops even yell at to go faster at... (I would know my brothers one)
Cardinal Fang
02-25-2009, 03:50 PM
*Stops spraying thread with water*
Ah yes the sweet smell of a thread being flushed down the TM3 toilet because of the off topic remarks and insults.
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