Low RPM bogging. [Archive]

Dante

04-04-2009, 05:03 AM

Flagrum_3

04-04-2009, 08:14 AM

Vvv

Flagrum_3

04-04-2009, 08:19 AM

Ive had some low rpm bogging for a while, meaning very sluggish power and crummy gas mileage. When i would hit a certain rpm things would run better. As well not all the time I would have full power . Basically I had been holding back checking my plugs and sure enough, I check them today and guess what?

they are all white and crusty. I head out and grab some Bosch Platinum +4, Expensive suckers but sure enough, the car's problems are all gone, even the gas mileage is better and all the power is restored. Now, since i have a paper statement from a mechanic of mine that works at Midas, would that be legit enough for warranty or do I really have to go back to stock ford plugs.. ugh.

^^^Okay, now that was weird! Sorry for the double post!

First of all they are not Ford plugs, they're NGK, but you should be fine warranty-wise aslong as you've kept receipts.

I have the same Bosch Platinum +4s to install soon as I've heard from a couple of other members that they work awesome on our 3's and they're cheaper then the NGK iridiums.

_3

Dante

04-04-2009, 01:58 PM

Flagrum_3

04-04-2009, 03:59 PM

Mine were "FoMoCo" plugs hah.. I would of loved some NGK's but bosch is all they carried and these ones were really expensive, the difference in power is night and day .. its very smooth the gear transitions.

FoMoCo? Someone must have changed them already, I thought all Mazda's used NGK exclusively! Anyways I only paid $40 for the Bosch at CT, the NGK Iridiums are twice that.

_3

mazda lover

04-04-2009, 06:15 PM

FoMoCo? Someone must have changed them already, I thought all Mazda's used NGK exclusively! Anyways I only paid $40 for the Bosch at CT, the NGK Iridiums are twice that.

_3

$40 for 4 right?? just checking:):hawt:chuckle

Flagrum_3

04-06-2009, 06:40 PM

$40 for 4 right?? just checking:):hawt:chuckle

That is correct!

_3

Dante

04-06-2009, 07:21 PM

wikdslo

04-06-2009, 10:34 PM

Guess what! Back on topic!!

The problem is back, Its basically surging now, If I dont give it much gas and just cruise, the needle goes up and down and the bogging is there.. Its very hesitant until it reaches about 3rd gear when the power starts to come back. It's almost as if it wants to die. I havent cleaned my fujita air filter since i installed it last year, could this be the problem?

I'm not quite sure why I'm bothering to repeat myself considering you already asked and from what I can tell didn't even bother to read my response.. but:

For both of you guys, this is what you can do to tell if the HARNESS is your issue.

1. Turn on the car and let it idle.
2. If required, remove the plastic pice that goes over your intake boot, I believe this supplies cold air into your battery box?
3. Gently move the harness that connects to the MAF around and see if your idle changes.
-When I did this on my car, my car would nearly stall out.

If it DOES change the engines idle (higher/lower) you will likely notice it change quickly and drastically. As I mentioned my car would go from a steady 65x rpm idle to nearly stalling out on it's own.

What was happening in MY case, and could very well be the same for you specifically Dante, is that the ground wire was nearly severed inside the sheathing (nothing you could see visually) and as a result, the MAF was outputting higher voltage signals than it should, which causes the computer to lean/richen the air/fuel mix.

This can cause poor gas mileage, hesitation, engine bogging, loss of overall power, rough idle.

I changed about 6 inches of wire, and it fixed up everything.

If you read through my posts, I was fairly detailed about all of this. I generally tend to be thorough so when the next person comes along (ie. you folks) you will be able to read through it all step by step and follow what I did to find your resolution.

If you're in/aroun Scarborough, hit me up with a PM and you can swing by so we can take a look at it. I'll be more than happy to help you fix it if it's a wiring issue.

Cheers.

Dante

04-06-2009, 10:48 PM

I'm not quite sure why I'm bothering to repeat myself considering you already asked and from what I can tell didn't even bother to read my response.. but:

Hmm, I hadn't seen it. If I have offended you my apologies ill give it a shot, When this snow clears up, I wouldn't mind going to scarbs and see if you can take a look. I have had my maf moved so it has more slack just incase this happened but I guess not :S ..

sas

04-07-2009, 05:27 AM

There is the one principal question. Were all plugs covered by white layer equally or there was a difference? The second question is,what is now with the spark plugs. With four electrodes you are risking in that case. The white layer is NOX, the nitrogen oxides.
To form theese compositions is needed the very high temperature or surplus of air.
It's appearing when the engine is working too lean or detonating.

Dante

04-07-2009, 05:56 AM

The 4th cylinder to the right was covered in the white stuff. The rest were somewhat clean, not good just better.

sas

04-07-2009, 07:22 AM

Then I think you have the bad injector in that cylinder. I think, it would be better to check what you have now, after short period.
If you had the all plugs white, then the one injector isn't the problem.
You don't have the CEL and this fact is surprising. I could suppose that the problem
is more global then leaking manifold or wrong MAF.

wikdslo

04-07-2009, 01:59 PM

Hmm, I hadn't seen it. If I have offended you my apologies ill give it a shot, When this snow clears up, I wouldn't mind going to scarbs and see if you can take a look. I have had my maf moved so it has more slack just incase this happened but I guess not :S ..

No problem.

It's incredibly easy to do a quick test.
Turn on the car, pop the hood, slowly move the harness to your MAF around.

But judging by what you've posted and what sas has said, it does *sound* like it's something limited to the one cylinder, and not a global issue. BUT, that could be something else, and this could still be causing you problems. 1 cylinder may not be able to cause what you are describing.

Again, it's a really quick check, but from what I've read on these and other forums, it's a very common issue.

Dante

04-07-2009, 02:34 PM

Did that today and the car remained at normal idle speeds. I was moving that maf like crazy.

wikdslo

04-07-2009, 04:40 PM

Did that today and the car remained at normal idle speeds. I was moving that maf like crazy.

Then I would rule that out.

Look into what sas mentioned about the injector possibly running that bank lean.

Dante

04-07-2009, 05:35 PM

No idea how to actually.

Could my fuel filter be clogged? I had this on my old car.. same symptoms until i changed the filter.

sas

04-07-2009, 06:03 PM

Could my fuel filter be clogged? I had this on my old car.. same symptoms until i changed the filter.

2006th year is early for fuel filter, but yes, it could be.
The all I know is that you have a white film on the plugs and the engine is working unstably. Your car need in more serious diagnosis.
If I did it, I’d measured the oxygen sensor first, then checked the fuel trim, the air flow,
and timing advance. Even after that there will be much to check.
Apparently, it will be hard to do it yourself and without special instruments.
As global problem I mean the low fuel pressure, sluggish oxygen sensor, clogged EGR system or even faulty knock sensor.

kevcol74

04-07-2009, 06:08 PM

Try some Seafoam..... worth a shot!

Dante

04-07-2009, 06:49 PM

All covered warranty i assume I have 60K

sas

04-07-2009, 07:52 PM

All covered warranty i assume I have 60K

I think it will be the best.
BTW your car was sucking oil. Maybe this is the crankcase ventilation valve?
On running engine, pull out the dipstick and look if the idle rpm is changing.

Dante

04-07-2009, 11:02 PM

the thing is, this car idle's perfectly. How do i check if it changes? have the girlfriend sit and look? lol

sas

04-08-2009, 02:37 AM

I was waiting this question.
No I ment just IDLE, any leak in intake is more noticeable at IDLE.
The leak thru the PCV can be hidden if dipstick inserted.
If there is the leak you will hear it as a rough idle.

wikdslo

04-08-2009, 08:24 AM

the thing is, this car idle's perfectly. How do i check if it changes? have the girlfriend sit and look? lol

Explore your senses :)

As sas said, use your ears. You will notice a difference right away.

kevcol74

04-08-2009, 10:20 AM

A rough idle will also make the engine shake more too, you should visual notice that.

sas

04-08-2009, 03:53 PM

^^^he he . Nice avatar Kevcol.
Ok, back in topic.
I was thinking here, we are cycling around the fact that your engine is working too lean.
If you have such leak thru the PCV valve, your intake should be full of oil.
Often, the burned oil looks similarly as the NOx. There is another variant with the PCV and white plugs if you have oil inside intake. I don’t wait you will check it. Just a tip for your mechanic.

Dante

05-21-2009, 12:38 AM

notoriousb

05-21-2009, 12:58 AM

I just cleaned out my intake today, FULL of carbon build up and what seems to be oil from that rubber pipe that connects to it!?!?!?! My throttle body was discusting dirty, i cleaned it but it lasted for a little bit and back to crap again.

What exactly does the PCV valve look like, is this the reason im missing so much oil??

No, most oil burning (i'm assume its oil burning not leaking) is from worn down piston rings where the oil ends up into the combustion chamber. Worn rings means more pressure in the crankcase via blow by gases. These gases are supposed to move through the pcv valve as it opens, and allows the gas back into the intake for reuse. Since you have more pressure than normal ... I would assume the oil is carried with the blow by gas and into your intake. That oil is minuscule compared to the oil being burned in your combustion chamber.

Try to use a thicker oil ... or rebuild your engine if it bothers u :chuckle

Also if you are running lean -- try doing the advanced timing mod --- that helps..

sas

05-21-2009, 04:56 AM

PCV is installed on the engine body. You can find it by tracing hose from intake manifold.If I remember correct the nearest to throttle hose. 2006th is too early for worn rings. You can get the oil inside manifold if you have excessive pressure inside crankcase(worn or stick rings),clogged PCV or hose(always big pressure and oil doesn't flow back) or you have excessive vakuum (clogged airfilter).Try to replace the PCV and clean it's hose.
It's cheap part and easy to replace.Check your air filter.
Maybe, think about how to clean piston rings.Seafoam or something else.
And there are procedures for checking the engine compression.

Dante

05-21-2009, 09:09 PM

Thank you all, Ill start with the timing mod, seafoam and ive already cleaned my filter so it helped a little bit. Then i will try some thick oil with lucas on top!

sas

05-22-2009, 08:18 PM

Don’t hurry with advanced timing mod., This mod will increase pressure and temperature inside combustion chamber. You have a white plugs, is it burnt oil or NOx, in both cases this mod doesn’t give you anything good. If you will use the seafoam , stay with thin oil.
Sometimes, after engine cleaning, carbon clogs cavities for lubrication. With thick oil chances are higher. Or flush the engine after cleaning by very thin oil. I used the hydravlical oil.

Donutz

05-22-2009, 11:15 PM

I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that the ECU will eventually learn that the timing has been advanced, and retard the timing. True; False? Who knows. Useless post, but FYI, it could be something to look into just in case.

As sas pointed out, you might want to look into some alternatives to fix the issue. Good luck and keep us posted.

gonzo25

05-23-2009, 12:07 PM

Well i did not read it all, but with the white plugs you are running lean and poor drivability I am going to call a sticky purge vavle.

Dante

05-23-2009, 02:26 PM

So how do I use seafoam once I get it?

My car isnt this one but it sounds EXACTLY like this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9UkkkT_xEY&feature=channel_page

Maybe if i buy the seafoam someone can come out to help? I would appreciate it

Donutz

05-23-2009, 02:31 PM

How to seafoam: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=111632.0

FYI: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=132281.0

I meant to post this for you as well. It's an epic 50 pg thread about the timing advance. There is some good info in here that you should consider before advancing timing: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=39020.0

sas

05-24-2009, 04:36 PM

On this video we can hear the knock of hydro-lifter(s). Mazda hasn’t a hydro-lifters and such strong sound could be produced by very unadjusted valve. It’s hard to say if you have this sound exactly from valves or this sound is coming from other places. It could to be the chain or something else.
You had burnt much oil. If carbon deposits covered the working surface of valves, the statement that you have knocking valves has a sense. This operation, where you pouring seafoam into manifold in time when engine working, should help. I’d recommend to make this procedure reinforced. Warm the engine, remove the spark plugs, give to engine 5 minutes to cool down, add 40-50ml of seafoam inside of every cylinder ,insert spark plugs back but leave plug caps removed, add seafoam to engine oil.
Ask someone to crank the engine by starter a few seconds and feed the intake hose by seafoam. Do it 3-4 times . Repeat this operation since 10 minutes.
Further, the standard procedure and oil change.
Sorry Dante I’m fa..ar away and can’t help physically.

Forget to note. When you feeding hose by seafoam, better to have it sprayed.

Dante

05-25-2009, 01:05 AM

I have synthetic and i really cant afford paying so much , can i revert back to normal oil after seafoam? I guess i can no? is 10W30 or 15W30 ok? With lucas ?

sas

05-25-2009, 03:10 AM

You can switch back to regular oil. It would be good to flush the engine between changing despite the most manufactures declaring the full compatibility of oils. Don't use additives,a good oil already has all necessary additives.
10w30 is for quite warm climate.If you are intending to use the same oil in winter would be better to use 5W30.

Dante

05-25-2009, 03:36 AM

remember i am burning, the oil hardly lasts!

sas

05-25-2009, 04:17 AM

Yes Dante you are burning the oil, but because your oil appearing inside combustion chamber.
Synhtetic isn't breaking from temperature(lasts a long time) and a bit more slippery.
For engines without turbo there is no big difference. Many mechanics even recommend to switch to regular when engine starting to burn oil.

Dante

05-25-2009, 02:04 PM

I was burning oil even faster with regular oil. I switched over 3 oil changes ago

sas

05-25-2009, 06:16 PM

It’s abnormal for 60k unturboed engine to burn so much of oil, and I hope you will bring it to the normal condition. The seafoaming , it’s more for liquidation of aftermath of this burning.
I’m watching the hoses diagram now. I was wrong, the PCV hose is third from throttle body.
Look in the service manual: Engine/Emission System/System Diagram.
Don’t underestimate the importance of PCV. Many manufacturers recommend to replace it at 40-60 kKm.. As I had understood, you have the oil inside breathing hose.
Breathing hose is attached to manifold before the throttle body, the PCV hose is after throttle. In result, the vacuum applied to crankcase is bigger then vacuum inside breathing (camshaft) hose,
and stream of fresh air should to go in direction of the camshaft cover. Looks like that PCV doesn’t work and engine gets rid of the excessive gases through breathing hose.

Dante

05-25-2009, 06:59 PM

so now im confused as to what to do, im no mechanic.

sas

05-25-2009, 07:32 PM

Replace the PCV and clean its hose. When will be replacing the PCV do check that hole where PCV installed is clean. Look if it helps. Since time you can clean the engine. This valve sound is very alerting, the stronger the sound ,the more quickly adjusting shims and cams are wearing. I didn’t know that you have such problem.
As for PCV, there is good article if you interesting in details.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/pcv-replace/index.html

Dante

05-25-2009, 10:35 PM

Do you have a pic of the PCV so i know im cleaning the right thing?

sas

05-26-2009, 04:45 AM

I can't found a photo of installed PCV. Maybe manual can help.
http://www.davidgowenlock.co.uk/mazda3/esicont/en/srvc/html/B3E011613890W01.html
http://www.davidgowenlock.co.uk/mazda3/esicont/en/srvc/html/B3E011300113W08.html
It's reccomended to replace the PCV ,I think you can check it firstly.
Drop the PCV into can with gas, allow to seat there some time,then pump the gas thru PCV by medical syringe or somehow else.If there is no any solid deposits inside the PCV and PCV is looking as new,check how it flows and leave the old PCV.
I'm just afraid that you can miss something,this airflow test should be done with understanding what you are doing and how it works. If valve is very dirty,it's better to replace it. If problem isn't in PCV,the next steps are very expensive like as rebuilding of the engine.
This poblem can't be left without attention, carbon built up on the valve even may wrap the valve or valve may be melted.
I know that you losing the oil, but I don't know how much. Do you have the exact numbers?

wikdslo

05-26-2009, 08:45 AM

Once I get home tonight, if i can remember, i'll go take some pics of where it is and how to change the PCV.

mogul_pro

05-27-2009, 01:05 AM

so now im confused as to what to do, im no mechanic.

Take your car to a Mazda dealer for service (and if you look at my threads I am usually the last person to say go see a dealer). Have them fit the car and be done with it. All this talk online about what you may be able to do, listening to people guess and tell you what you should do when you don't even know for sure if the person that is giving you advice knows that they are talking about in the first place doesn't make much sence. Especially when you contunie to use your car and maybe letting the problem get worse or have an effect on other things creating future potential problems. So as far as asking what you should do, get your car serviced properly seems like the correct answer.

Best of luck getting it fixed.

kevcol74

05-27-2009, 01:31 AM

^ I have to agree with mogul. I know my way around an engine, so I'd attempt to isolatre the issue... but when you don't know what the PCV valve is and where to find it, then you best leave it to the professionals. Unless you have someone mechanically inclined looking over your shoulder, you can only learn so much from the internet. We can't litterally point thses parts out to you.
maybe ask for a member's help that does know their way around an engine and lives close by!

Dante

05-27-2009, 02:37 AM

To be perfectly honest with you, no one gets anywhere without learning first about anything they attempt. My last car, I knew the engine top to bottom, this one? It's all digital, I know certain things, can do certain installs. I don't trust the "Professionals" that leave tools in my car and shit not properly put back together. For that reason Ive taken this into my own hands, if the car breaks because of that, well tough luck to me. I have never failed at anything Ive practiced. I understand your trying to be supportive to send my car away to dealerships but I'm here trying to learn which is what the TorontoMazda3 club is intended to do, Make friends, learn and socialize. If I had simply brought this car to the dealer, this board would be of no use. No one would speak, everyone would bring things in. With that being said, I would like a picture of the PCV valve, I'm going to be doing several things this weekend and see what I can isolate on my own. If it is a part I need, THEN i shall contact a service department to get me that part, Ill do the work my self.

Dante

05-27-2009, 02:38 AM

Once I get home tonight, if i can remember, i'll go take some pics of where it is and how to change the PCV.

Thank you.

sas

05-27-2009, 03:32 AM

I'm afraid that wikdslo couldn't do pfotos. PCV is behind of the intake. Possible, to get here with removed splash shield. But even from here access to PCV is very limited.
Probably, I had been too captivated. You wrote that you had cleaned the throttle body then checked it again...Now I'm thinking how you will remove the air intake or will be crawling under car... It's not so hard , but maybe guys are right. I know,your relationships with dealer are far from warm, but there are independent workshops. For moderate money these guys might do miracles.

Dante

05-27-2009, 07:01 PM

doing seafoam now, I have CAI so intake isnt as you think it is, i have probably more access to this PCV valve.

sas

05-27-2009, 08:03 PM

Now you are seafoaming, you are so quick, don’t accelerate the engine hard,you can damage the catalytic converter. And be careful these cleaning procedures are quite risky.
Yes, I know that you have the CAI. To remove the PCV you have to remove the intake manifold. With proper instruments and all precautions it's 4-5 hours of work including cleaning and installation.
Dante, for me many mechanical things are looking easy, I never considered myself as "mechanic", but I worked as bus mechanic, did many works on my car and on cars of my friends, even repaired the tanks. I remember my first experience with motorcycles in young age. It’s so easy to have done something wrong. On another hand, we all have to start somewhere.
It’s the Mazda6 practically the same picture as Mazda3. This hose is disconnected from manifold and this white plastic is the PCV.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l190/M6MrTea/Parts/Picture011.jpg?t=1229882724
Do think many times if you ready for this work, learn the documentation, all notes, do some photos, prepare tools, maybe ask someone who have the tools and experience to help. I think this work in shop will cost 250-300$.

Dante

05-28-2009, 02:04 AM

I have warranty but i have to go like 1 hour away just to get it repaired and risk having my car away from me for days.. I cleaned the crap out of the car ..

I seafoamed it using the vacume hose method, tons of smoke came out, let it all clear out, then i put engine flush in the crank, drained all that crap out and filled with some 10W30 oil and new filter of course.. The ticking is less now and a bit of my power is back but not completely, i still bog.

If i see the trouble is not worth my liking, ill take it to a stealership to work on it, if not then that's a go.. This motor is quite frankly pissing me off.. i really appreciate sas that you have taken your time to document these things for me.. Thanks buddy.

kevcol74

05-28-2009, 09:49 AM

Run some more seafoam using the vacuum method, seemed to help, can't hurt. Also make sure some went into your tank of gas... this will slowly help too over the tank of gas...

wikdslo

05-28-2009, 03:37 PM

Run some more seafoam using the vacuum method, seemed to help, can't hurt. Also make sure some went into your tank of gas... this will slowly help too over the tank of gas...

Although this may help restore some power/life... I don't think it is going to allocate the underlying problem which caused the issue from the get go, and all his troubles will just come right back.

kevcol74

05-28-2009, 06:14 PM

Possibly, or it could be years of getting crappy gas from the same place... you never know until you have all the facts. But if the seafoam showed an improvement, try some more.

sas

05-28-2009, 06:21 PM

I’m happy that this treatment was ended without losses.
Bit confused by your description of process of flushing. When you are adding the flush liquid to the oil, you have to give engine to work 2 minutes to mix the oil, since 10 minutes you start engine again to have main part of released carbon inside of the oil filter. I hope, all was done in similar way.
As small experiment to check that you really have a problem with the ventilation system and
to prevent the further engine contamination ,you could to use some kind of catch-can installed on the breathing hose. The breathing hose it’s a hose routed from camshaft cover to the CAI pipe. You can use any universal fuel filter and additional piece of hose of the same diameter as breathing hose.
This is the protégé, just to show the idea.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=92817&stc
If you will use it, don’t forget to remove it before you will show the car to the dealer.
The sound, it’s really bad. You are under warranty. It’s the problem of the dealer not your. All these problems should to be problems of dealer. If you need in valve adjustment the easiest way is the Mazda service. This warranty system, when main dealer’s task is to change liquids is leading to the situation when dealer has a very small quantity of professionals.
There are very good specialists here. I hope you will have a professional now.

Dante

05-28-2009, 06:58 PM

The sound actually returned pretty loud and my power is gone past 4K.. Looks like im definately screwed now to be honest. For now ill make an appoint but continue looking at what i can, ill try cleaning my spark plugs.. they are brand new since 2 months ago but ill check them.

kevcol74

05-28-2009, 11:21 PM

After reading through the thread again, and owning a Protege... I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest there might be an issue with your EGR valve... If you can access it, clean it out. Just an idea, but the EGRs are nototrious on the previous motor in the Proteges....

Dante

05-29-2009, 02:32 AM

So the power comes and goes, if i hit the gas from not moving, somtimes i get this great push of power, others i just get bog and goes no where.. Once it reaches 4K-6K which i really hate doing, it actually sits at 5K for about 3 seconds and jolts up suddenly and gets power. The ticking is quite loud now and when i drive its not noticable, only when im stopped or creeping up to go. Ill check my EGR as you say

sas

05-29-2009, 03:41 AM

Yes Kevcol.Relatively to the bogging problem it could be EGR or IAC, but engine has the very little reserve of time to solve this problem.
Dante, you need in a proffy and would be better if it will be the Mazda technician. As minimum, the source of sound have to be located and characterized. Don't reving the engine,the less revs the better.
Maybe PM to mod to hide this thread. Problems started since you had lost the oil before oil changing, it's not your fault,but seafoaming may harm the talks.
As for this bogging. EGR is checked by MAP and quite reliably. There could to be a bunch of possible causes. From contaminated valves to worn seals of actuators.
Dante, with metal sounds you haven't the time for experiments.

Dante

06-02-2009, 09:07 PM

car now rests at mazda's hands.. apparently bad catalytic and o2 was found

sas

06-03-2009, 03:54 AM

Glad to hear that car now in a good hands.
This combination of oil and sounds was very dangerous. Plus, you already had the low oil pressure issue and I suspected that there could be worn the inner engine parts.
For the future.I understand it's hard to change the driving habits especially with the auto tranny and especially on the so well riding car as Mazda. Mazdas never were a GT cars. Try to drive in more sparing mode,when it's possible.
I hope, for Mazda it's the matter of honour now, and the all will be ok.

notoriousb

06-03-2009, 11:42 PM

So does it work now?

Dante

06-07-2009, 02:13 PM

they replaced front catalytic and o2 sensor, engine still ticks and i dont know how they ignored that and they refused to do my rear catalytic because of my aftermarket exhaust and tip

Donutz

06-07-2009, 02:19 PM

$70 for a used secondary cat: clicky (http://www.emotors.ca/used/parts/1648.aspx)

Dante

06-07-2009, 06:57 PM

WOW!! dude, they were saying 800 for a cat + labor! WTF man, im like you giving me a live animal or a catalytic. Im definatley gettin that. Now to get a mechanic to work on my engine, anyone know of a good place? Im done with Mazda and dishing out the cash.. ugh

Donutz

06-07-2009, 07:26 PM

You know I'm going to say go see Jimmy. What all do you need done? Is it just the secondary cat installed?

Dante

06-09-2009, 01:15 AM

New engine.

sas

06-09-2009, 03:25 AM

Is it a joke or a new diagnosis?
Your dealer disappointing to me, but not wondering. Absolutely not interested in the result.
I already have refused the proposition of my dealer to do the annual service.
Your problem is quite complicated to be diagnosed through internet.
There are many good feedbacks about Jimmy, maybe it is the man you need in.
Consult with him about jour troubles.
Here, I have very similar guys. They worked for Mazda and now they have their own business. Very professional guys and very reasonable prices.