Headlight Bulb replacement

[bbell1984]

Ok, so i figure i'm going to get burned for posting this, but i searched a bunch of times but couldn't find anything.

My front drivers side headlight burnt out yesterday or so and i'm looking for a "how to" thread to replace the bulb. By the way its non HID. The car is also an 07 hatch.
thanks
b

[Default User]

I doubt there's a write up
easiest way is to disconnect the connector from the bulb - squeeze both sides and pull
then pull off the rubber grommet - there's 3 tabs to help grip on to
Push down and unhook the metal retainer clip
next, turn the bulb counter clockwise about 1/4 of the way, and slide the bulb out. (If possible, try to note where the lock tabs are positioned.)
If your bulb is an H7 like mine, you may have to seperate the base adapter from the bulb. (It's a pain in the ass to seperate - but just try to wiggle it out.)

Install the new bulb is same in reverse

TIPS and NOTES
when placing in a new bulb - try to remember or see where those lock tabs are positioned on the housing
DO NOT get any fingerprints on the bulb
it's a good time to spray some electrical cleaner on the connections
Make use of your time and effort - it's easier to get to that corner bulb, with the headlight connectors out of the way. PLUS, this way you know it's a fresh bulb and it won't burn out a week later.


Hope it helps

[Pariah]

So there is a base adapter for the H7 low beam bulb?
Is this true for all years?

[stevenma188]

^Yes all of our cars use a H7 spacer.

[cwp_sedan]

Bulb change
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=4139.0

Better view of the retention clip (this is the hardest part)
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=105093.0

[TheMAN]

don't forget to use dielectric grease on the contacts so that they won't corrode... don't use any tools to remove the rubber seal, it can tear easily and a torn seal means water in headlight

[Gizzmo_jr]

Converting to D2S bulbs was so worth it..

For the H7, my trick was to use something with a bend that you can push on the retention arm. Finger pressure gets it close but not enough to get it around the locking piece.
Stock bulbs are easy, but after-market spacers/bulbs are a huge pain.