Engine knocking/ticking sound

[Gen1GT]

I did an autocross last weekend while unkowningly down about a litre of oil. I developed a knock/tick from the engine that started mild, and now does it nearly constantly. I'm going to guess a spun rod bearing.

Has anyone changed this out themself? I'm competent enough to do it myself, but I wanted to know if anyone else has changed one out, and may have some MZR specific advice.

...it's gonna suck laying on my back for hours and hours, since I don't have a hoist.

[sas]

It’s sad it happened to you. Hard to say what you can and what not, all these works being done by man. I just can say that for me it would be a real pain and I’d prefer to spend some money for diagnosis by professional mechanic which works should be done, rebuilding or replacing the engine. Most like, the replacing will be quicker and you can save some of your nerves.

[Gen1GT]

It's not a pain, since I enjoy working on my cars. I'm on vacation too, so I have the time to do it. I just wanted to know if anyone has pulled out the crank from the bottom end, and what I should look out for.

[sas]

It would be better you to throw out this idea. It‘s a very big deal in terms of equipment and knowledge. Plus, the first engine takes too long time and without a deep knowledge of the object after rebuilding there almost always appear problems from results of your intervention.
At home you have a chance only with replacement of the connecting rod bearing. And first thing you have to do it’s a preliminary diagnosis. Bring the car to Jimmy, possible it will help to determine your next steps.

[Gen1GT]

LOL, I appreciate your advice, however it wasn't the advice I was looking for. It was more along the lines of "Gen1GT, you'll need to give the undertray fasteners a good soak of WD40, since they tend to break easily" I was looking for. That being said, I had to cut the undertray out because all the bolts just spin in place.

The engine work is not a problem, and it's unfortunate you're afraid to do it yourself. I guess most guys are. Perhaps you lack the proper equipment? On my end, I have a fully stocked garage with air compressor, measuring instruments, ring compressors (if I need it) and (most importantly) a stereo so I can pump 103.5 while I do the work.

I guess I should mention that my brother was a mechanic himself, and two of our friends are also (one of whom won a North America wide mechanics competition). The only thing I can't do, of course, is polish the rod journal, but there are plenty of places I can get that done.

If someone could tell me the rod torque and bearing/journal clearance for the MZR, that would help (Edwin, you out there?). It's probably the same as the BP, but just in case...

[froggy]

I know that the shop manual was posted on here a while ago not sure if the link still works but all of the clearances, and torque specs should be in there

[sas]

Then I don’t see a problem here. Froggy is right. Exists the engine workshop for MZR it is 1744–1E–02D,
for LF and L3 1731–1E–02C. There are main sizes and torques. I think you can download them easily.

[sas]

I'm bad today this MZR is a diesel you need in L3 as i understand.

[Gen1GT]

Then I don’t see a problem here. Froggy is right. Exists the engine workshop for MZR it is 1744–1E–02D,
for LF and L3 1731–1E–02C. There are main sizes and torques. I think you can download them easily.

This helped a lot. It still doesn't say anywhere in the manual what the rod journal diameter should be.

[sas]

I newer did such deep work with the engine. My English is too weak with all these terms,
possible you are speaking about crank pin journal ,this size presents here. The rod hole you can recalculate from this size ,bearing size and oil clearance.
This work is very big and mostly with different kind of documents. Practically you can find all information in the internet, there are specific sites, forums for engine tuners, videos. It’s like a getting a new profession.
I forget to say, if you have a turbo there is another workshop don’t have its number but also available in internet.
Edited:Have discovered this workshop at my work. You can find it by this number 9999–95–0L3T–06.

[Gen1GT]

Yes, the crank pin journal diameter. I guess I didn't go all the way down to the bottom of the document! Haha, it's 50mm. Thanks SAS.