HID Questions

[gularti]

I've read a lot of threads on the website before putting together this post as I didn't want to tackle questions that have already been asked. However, there is a lot of different opinions on the forum and I was hoping to get some concrete answers before I purchase a set of HID's.

My list of questions:

I don't want to lose my DRL's if possible, is there anywhere to install HIDs and keep DRL's that aren't the HIDs or fogs? (06 Mazda 3 GT)
I would require a relay harness and capicitor to ensure HIDs run correctly without flickering or full power issues?
Is there a way to wire an 06' so that it works like the 07's that use the high beam as DRL?
I don't want to cut any stock wiring if possible, does the harness ensure that or do I need something called a "pigtail"?
What would be the best method to install this HID mod, so that it is setup as "stock" as possible?


Thanks in advance for any support/answers fellow members can provide. I don't mean to sound entirely stupid - just want to make sure its done right the first time without issues, headaches and any complications to my pride and joy. I have a very good, trusted installer ... but I'd like to understand all the details before I proceed with the mod.

Look forward to your responses :)

[Impressive]

I'd absolutely love it if someone answered these questions as I myself am looking to put HIDs on my car in the near future.

Please someone help us!! :chuckle

[JaYson]

I've read a lot of threads on the website before putting together this post as I didn't want to tackle questions that have already been asked. However, there is a lot of different opinions on the forum and I was hoping to get some concrete answers before I purchase a set of HID's.

My list of questions:

I don't want to lose my DRL's if possible, is there anywhere to install HIDs and keep DRL's that aren't the HIDs or fogs? (06 Mazda 3 GT)
I would require a relay harness and capicitor to ensure HIDs run correctly without flickering or full power issues?
Is there a way to wire an 06' so that it works like the 07's that use the high beam as DRL?
I don't want to cut any stock wiring if possible, does the harness ensure that or do I need something called a "pigtail"?
What would be the best method to install this HID mod, so that it is setup as "stock" as possible?


Thanks in advance for any support/answers fellow members can provide. I don't mean to sound entirely stupid - just want to make sure its done right the first time without issues, headaches and any complications to my pride and joy. I have a very good, trusted installer ... but I'd like to understand all the details before I proceed with the mod.

Look forward to your responses :)

1) You will not lose your standard DRLs by installing HIDs with or without a relayharness and/or capacitor. however, with the standard setup your HIDs will run as DRLs. -- another option is to run your foglights DRLs or your Highbeams as DRLs (this requires some fiddling with the stock wiring i believe)
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?20069-All-new-highbeams-as-DRL-mod&highlight=DRL+highbeam

2) yes you would require a relay harness and capacitor to ensure proper functioning. The relay harness makes the wiring up of your HIDs cleaner and doesnt require you to splice any stock wiring, as well as drawing power directly from the battery.
the capacitor help to ensure that there wont be any flickering when your HIDs run as DRLs (b/c during this time the power being supplied to the lights is less than 100%) you will only need the capacitor if you're running the HIDs as your DRLs

3) apparently there is, but it'll require splicing of wires i believe. i havnt looked much into this option. becuase i cant make sense of the diagram lol

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?20069-All-new-highbeams-as-DRL-mod&highlight=DRL+highbeam

4) if you're running your HIDs as DRLs, than by using the relay harness you will not need to splice any wires or damage your stock wiring. if you buy a HID CAPACITOR on ebay (like i did) it just plugs into the relay harness, then the harness into hid Kit, doesnt require damaging any stock wiring

5) the most "stock" option, is the standard setup in which you connect as followed:

Stock Lowbeam harness --> Capacitor --> relay harness --> Ballasts --> HID bulbs

this setup will make your HIDs run as your DRLs. this is the most "stock" option in that it requires no damaging of stock wiring. and it will look stock (in terms of having ur lowbeams as DRLs)




This is basically all that i have been able to gather over the past few weeks. I just bought myself an HID kit too. i havnt installed it yet, still waiting for the capacitor to ship.

Please, anyone correct me if im wrong. (there is some confusion as to what the relay harness does, some people believe the relay harness alone will solve the flickering issue. I believe this is false, because a "relay" and a "capacitor" are 2 very differnt things)(you will infact need both to solve teh DRL flickering issue)

hope this helps...(hope this is correct information, if anyone has additional words, or can correct me (definitively) please do so before i screw up my own install lol thanks

[wmzda5]

Yeah if you do it right, with the harness it will solve the flickering issue. I have a 07 mazda5 but I think from the pics I've seen on some posts the wirings are the same as in the 3. The trick there is when you install the harness as per diagram on the kit do not follow the instruction regarding the hook up on the oem socket on the driver side. You have to find out which wire is the + and which one is - on the socket, you can use a pen light tester or multimeter to do this. The positive wire as per diagram that suppose to attach to the oem socket attaches to the _ side of the socket and the - wire that suppose to attach to the socket simply goes to a good body ground.

Whats happening here is that since you are using the harness direct power is not supplied by the oem socket but by the battery, oem socket only powers the relay.

I have done installation on my mazda5 at least 2 times on the low beams (DRL) and also the fogs. I had the flickering issue on the first try and I've been running for a year now on the second try, no problem. I already changed the ballast to 55watts and the bulbs to 8000k on the low beams. I will soon install 55 watt HID kit to my cousin's celica probably end of this mont when the kit arrives. Hope this help. You can view write ups of install from here...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123748611

[JaYson]

Yeah if you do it right, with the harness it will solve the flickering issue. I have a 07 mazda5 but I think from the pics I've seen on some posts the wirings are the same as in the 3. The trick there is when you install the harness as per diagram on the kit do not follow the instruction regarding the hook up on the oem socket on the driver side. You have to find out which wire is the + and which one is - on the socket, you can use a pen light tester or multimeter to do this. The positive wire as per diagram that suppose to attach to the oem socket attaches to the _ side of the socket and the - wire that suppose to attach to the socket simply goes to a good body ground.

Whats happening here is that since you are using the harness direct power is not supplied by the oem socket but by the battery, oem socket only powers the relay.

I have done installation on my mazda5 at least 2 times on the low beams (DRL) and also the fogs. I had the flickering issue on the first try and I've been running for a year now on the second try, no problem. I already changed the ballast to 55watts and the bulbs to 8000k on the low beams. I will soon install 55 watt HID kit to my cousin's celica probably end of this mont when the kit arrives. Hope this help. You can view write ups of install from here...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123748611

to my understanding. the primary issue with the flickering is that when your lowbeams are running as DRLs they're running at a lower power (lets say 50%) this does not supply the balasts with enough power to fully supply the HID bulbs.

so therefore, if you're still using the same signal wire (aka. Positive plug) from the stock headlights, the signal will still have that lower power when running as DRLs. the negative end of that make connector can plug into anywhere or ground anyhwere really because its a "ground".

as long as you're powering your lights using the Positive (signal wire) from the stock headlight alone, you will have the flickering issue.

i do kinda see what people are getting at with the idea that the relay harness will alone fix the flickering issue. because you are drawing power directly from the battery....this is all very confusing...

[wmzda5]

Yes @ DRL mode, it is running at a reduced power thats why on a stock halogen setup DRL usually a bit dimmer than when low beams are on. But remember our focus here is with harness setup, that gets full power directly from battery. the reduced DRL power only powers the switch relay which is enough to power it. Try it , the (-) wire that the diagram shows go to the h7 oem socket, reposition to any good body ground aand theres no flickering. Put it back to the socket and it will flicker.

[mazdathree]

Please, anyone correct me if im wrong. (there is some confusion as to what the relay harness does, some people believe the relay harness alone will solve the flickering issue. I believe this is false, because a "relay" and a "capacitor" are 2 very differnt things)(you will infact need both to solve teh DRL flickering issue)


Yes you are right. The capacitor and the relay are two different things. A relay is just a switch that turns on/off allowing the circuit to close between the battery, ballast and the HID bulb. The capacitor on the other hand is used to hold charge.

Flickerring is only caused if you use the stock low beam harness (during DRL mode) to turn on the relay that powers the HID kit directly from the battery. That is why you need an antiflicker capacitor to go in series with the entire circuit so that it holds a constant charge. The drl signal is a pulse signal (not constant power). The ballast needs constant power to turn on the HID bulb else the bulb would flicker reducing its life span.

Using the relay only is a setup that needs "other signal source" to turn on the relay so that it can supply power directly from the battery to the ballast which in turn would light the HID bulb. This "other signal source" could be the side turn signal power which is constant in nature. This would however require your DRLs to be relocated to fogs or high beams (requires fiddling with stock wires on 04-06 models only) as your low beams will only turn on when your head light switch is turned on (DRL disable mode). Flickering can only occur (if only relay is used) if your headlight switch is in on position and you start your engine this is because at engine startup the battery is recharging and hence the power supplied to the ballast is reduced and therefore flickering (in most cases the bulb wont even turn on). When some people say the relay by itself solves the flickering problem, they probably say it because its constant power directly from the battery, but this is the case only when the engine is on and not engine startup with headlight switch in autolight mode (starting engine in the dark).

I infact have my low beams as HID which run as drls. I have both the antiflicker capacitor and the relay harness.

[sp3GT]

I think if you have a 3 prior to 07, the best setup is to do indy fog mod, use those as DRL when you wish since you have full control and then use HID at night.

If anyone has other questions or is interested in a slim kit, can PM me.

[JaYson]

only issue is that independant fog mod requires tapping/splicing into stock wiring. so if you wanted to leave the stock wiring alone, you cant really do the independant fog mod.

also if you're doing the independant fog mod. you'll have to do the "disable DRLs mod" aswell. which requires you to tap/splice into the parking light line as your signal source.



Independant fog mod:
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=11730.0

Disable DRLs mod:
http://www.thexenonstore.com/mazda3_drl.php

[wmzda5]

When some people say the relay by itself solves the flickering problem, they probably say it because its constant power directly from the battery, but this is the case only when the engine is on and not engine startup with headlight switch in autolight mode (starting engine in the dark).


I agree, completely overlooked whats happening during engine startup.

[wmzda5]

Time to buy some capacitors, do anybody whats the specs? Is it 470 uF 12 V? And where can you recommend to buy in GTA?

[stevenma188]

4700uF capacitor with a rating greater than 12V. I would recommend at least a 16V one.

[htc***]

Time to buy some capacitors, do anybody whats the specs? Is it 470 uF 12 V? And where can you recommend to buy in GTA?



Capacitor thread see #19

Link : Where to buy 4700uf 16V in GTA (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?41856-where-can-i-buy-a-antiflicker-capacitor/page2)

[vertigo]

Jesus christ I wish there was just a fuse you could pull that disables the DRLs. I've seen about 10 different ways to do it now, and not one seems particularly straightforward unless you're good with electric stuff, which I'm not :(

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

I just installed 6000K HID's last weekend and LOVE them. I don't think I could ever go back to halogens ever again. Although, I have a 2010... so it's plug-in, stick ballasts somewhere, done...

[Roconne]

I just installed 6000K HID's last weekend and LOVE them. I don't think I could ever go back to halogens ever again. Although, I have a 2010... so it's plug-in, stick ballasts somewhere, done...I installed mine tonight and WOW. It's amazing how bright these things are. And you are right, I don't think I could ever go back to a car with just halogen bulbs.
I went with 5000k, I wanted 'pure white'.

[zzz3]

I installed mine tonight and WOW. It's amazing how bright these things are. And you are right, I don't think I could ever go back to a car with just halogen bulbs.
I went with 5000k, I wanted 'pure white'.

hey would you mind telling me which bulb to order? I looked at this thread "exterior bulb #'s (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?8408-Exterior-Bulb-s)" but i think the info is outdated. I am a total noob at this :( (non lethal rocks please). So far i have only managed to figure out that i want 6000k/35w, but am confused on what kit to order from DDM.

[Roconne]

If you are going for the low beams in a 2010 mazda3, you will want H11 bulbs.

[zzz3]

excuse my ignorance, but isnt the low beam for the gx/gs housed in the reflector? My understanding is putting hids in reflectors is bad? The setup in your avatar looks perfect, thats what im trying to accomplish lol.

[zzz3]

cant edit my previous reply but i think i understand what you are saying. I plan to use my projector (which i believe is both low beam/high beam) and have no problems loosing the high beam functionality (im not sure if you loose high beam capabilities when going to hid?). I hope this reply was more constructive...

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

cant edit my previous reply but i think i understand what you are saying. I plan to use my projector (which i believe is both low beam/high beam) and have no problems loosing the high beam functionality (im not sure if you loose high beam capabilities when going to hid?). I hope this reply was more constructive...

The projector lens is only the low beam. The high beam is a reflector housing. You will be replacing the low beam only. Trust me, you won't even need to use your high beams after you install the HID's. Just make sure you have your headlights aimed properly after installing the HID's so you don't blind everyone on the highway.

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

I installed mine tonight and WOW. It's amazing how bright these things are. And you are right, I don't think I could ever go back to a car with just halogen bulbs.
I went with 5000k, I wanted 'pure white'.

Yeah, yours will be even brighter than mine. I sacrificed "a little" light output for that nice hint of blue. But honestly, these things are many times brighter than any halogen bulbs so it really doesn't matter. After I installed mine I adjusted the aim of the headlights a little lower as to not blind people. It wasn't bad where it was, but I think the cutoff is a little higher when you install the HID's due to the length of the bulb. A quick adjustment and the cutoff is at stock level again.

[zzz3]

i figured it out thanks to roccones help. I wont be embarrassing myself any further. Well, maybe one more question? Why go with 35w vs 55w? Is it because the battery can handle a certain before the hids start to flicker or have other issues? Im putting in an order for 35w/6000k h11 for my SportGX right now; thank you to everyone for helping me out.

[cklwilliam]

i figured it out thanks to roccones help. I wont be embarrassing myself any further. Well, maybe one more question? Why go with 35w vs 55w? Is it because the battery can handle a certain before the hids start to flicker or have other issues? Im putting in an order for 35w/6000k h11 for my SportGX right now; thank you to everyone for helping me out.

i believe 55w draws more power, which has a chance of melting your stock harness from what i was told. 4300k hid + clear lens + colour mod FTW

[JaYson]

The projector lens is only the low beam. The high beam is a reflector housing. You will be replacing the low beam only. Trust me, you won't even need to use your high beams after you install the HID's. Just make sure you have your headlights aimed properly after installing the HID's so you don't blind everyone on the highway.

how exactly did you adjust the aim of your headlights?

[JohnyGT]

1. There are 2 different ways to install, keep DRL(low beam) with HID by putting capacitor inline, or install HID to parking light signal(turn parking light only to turn HID) and do Fog DRL mod.
2. Yes, it is highly recommended to have them running, to ensure stability.
3. There is way to, but we do not modify the stock system. Warranty issue..
4. Cutting stock wiring is not mandatory, and you don't need to bring pigtail.
5. To keep it simple, I would recommend to do HID install with capacitor inline to keep stock DRL.

If you need someone to install the HID kit as you desire, plz do not hestitate to contact us,
We do have capacitor, all you need to bring is HID kit and relay harness wiring.


[/LIST][/LIST]

My list of questions:

I don't want to lose my DRL's if possible, is there anywhere to install HIDs and keep DRL's that aren't the HIDs or fogs? (06 Mazda 3 GT)
I would require a relay harness and capicitor to ensure HIDs run correctly without flickering or full power issues?
Is there a way to wire an 06' so that it works like the 07's that use the high beam as DRL?
I don't want to cut any stock wiring if possible, does the harness ensure that or do I need something called a "pigtail"?
What would be the best method to install this HID mod, so that it is setup as "stock" as possible?

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

how exactly did you adjust the aim of your headlights?

There is an adjuster screw on the back of each headlight assembly which changes the angle of the projector.

[Nextmod]

to make things easiler. we just made a special kit with spacers, relay harness and all other parts you will need all into one for the Mazda 3's

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?44562-Nextmod-HID-04-09-Mazda-3-special-kits-(with-spacers-relay-harness)

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

to make things easiler. we just made a special kit with spacers, relay harness and all other parts you will need all into one for the Mazda 3's

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?44562-Nextmod-HID-04-09-Mazda-3-special-kits-(with-spacers-relay-harness)

Sorry Peter, I was referring specifically to the 2010 models - I should have mentioned that. I know you have a great kit for the 04-09's. The 2010's are simple plug and play - nothing special required. I'd definitely be coming to you if I had an 04-09 because you've really made it simple with that package you put together - Good job.

[Rob23]

indy fog mod is deffinatly the best way to go.

[JaYson]

There is an adjuster screw on the back of each headlight assembly which changes the angle of the projector.

MONEY! thanks

[JaYson]

i mounted my ballasts with only the outdoor double sided tape from home depot. seems solid. however i noticed they heat up ALOT, need i worry about that heat messing with the stickability of my ballasts?

[vertigo]

Does anybody know if the battery wiring harnesses are universal? I got my kit from Xenon Expert and, like an idiot, didn't order the harness at the same time. I don't want to have to pay another $25 USD shipping charge for a bunch of wiring if I can avoid it. So, if they are universal, I'll buy from somebody local.

[stevenma188]

Maybe take a picture of the connectors on the ballast.

[vertigo]

This may be hard to see but it's the best one I got... My phone's camera is literal garbage (Nokia E71).

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4705101892_3986108f7e_b.jpg

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

Is it the ballasts themselves producing the heat, or are they hot from the engine temperature? I mounted my ballasts with 3M double sided outdoor tape (from canadian tire). Once I stuck them on I could not get them off - that $hit sticks hard.

[Noisy Crow]

Does anybody know if the battery wiring harnesses are universal? I got my kit from Xenon Expert and, like an idiot, didn't order the harness at the same time. I don't want to have to pay another $25 USD shipping charge for a bunch of wiring if I can avoid it. So, if they are universal, I'll buy from somebody local.

They are universal. Rather than the 9005 plugs/sockets moving plugging into the OEM harness directly you insert the battery harness in the middle. Which means that the battery harness also has to have 9005 plugs/sockets.

[vertigo]

They are universal. Rather than the 9005 plugs/sockets moving plugging into the OEM harness directly you insert the battery harness in the middle. Which means that the battery harness also has to have 9005 plugs/sockets.

But since mine is an '05, I need a harness with H7 plugs. Right?

[Noisy Crow]

But since mine is an '05, I need a harness with H7 plugs. Right?

Yup. Although I do not know if 9005/H7 bulbs actually have different sockets... it's not like anyone could mix them up. But in any case any battery harness with H7 connectors should work fine.

[vertigo]

Yup. Although I do not know if 9005/H7 bulbs actually have different sockets... it's not like anyone could mix them up. But in any case any battery harness with H7 connectors should work fine.

Yet I see all these battery harnesses listed on various websites, and they are all the same... No mention of socket types. I suppose I could just buy any of them then, eh?

[JaYson]

Is it the ballasts themselves producing the heat, or are they hot from the engine temperature? I mounted my ballasts with 3M double sided outdoor tape (from canadian tire). Once I stuck them on I could not get them off - that $hit sticks hard.

how long have you had your HIDs in?
Im pretty sure its the ballasts that are heating up. both are pretty far away from the engine, and the stuff surrounding them arnt as hot...

[Olestra]

how long have you had your HIDs in?
Im pretty sure its the ballasts that are heating up. both are pretty far away from the engine, and the stuff surrounding them arnt as hot...

Yes the ballasts heat up themselves, this can be tested by running the HIDs with the engine off. I didn't notice them heating up to the point where it seemed like double sided tape would melt or lose stickiness. They were warm to touch but not burning.

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

Yes the ballasts heat up themselves, this can be tested by running the HIDs with the engine off. I didn't notice them heating up to the point where it seemed like double sided tape would melt or lose stickiness. They were warm to touch but not burning.

Mine barely get warm.

[zzz3]

i mounted my ballasts with only the outdoor double sided tape from home depot. seems solid. however i noticed they heat up ALOT, need i worry about that heat messing with the stickability of my ballasts?

i had this issue with the slim ddm ballasts. They got so hot to the point that some bluish plastic was oozing out from the gap where the plastic meets the metal base of the ballast.


Mine barely get warm.

You have all the luck lol. I decided to check on my HID kit (running raptors) and the ballasts were really hot. I wasnt sure what it was from because i didnt turn them on at any point during the whole day. I assume its a result of the temperature outside+even hotter engine bay...btw are you using a extra wiring harness on your raptor? And were did you mount your ballasts?

[sp3GT]

^ Ballast aren't suppose to get that hot, they might be warm to the touch at most.

If they're really hot to the touch then it's probably due to engine temps or there's a problem with the ballast.

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

i had this issue with the slim ddm ballasts. They got so hot to the point that some bluish plastic was oozing out from the gap where the plastic meets the metal base of the ballast.



You have all the luck lol. I decided to check on my HID kit (running raptors) and the ballasts were really hot. I wasnt sure what it was from because i didnt turn them on at any point during the whole day. I assume its a result of the temperature outside+even hotter engine bay...btw are you using a extra wiring harness on your raptor? And were did you mount your ballasts?

No, I'm not running the extra harness. I've got one ballast mounted on top of the fuse box, and the other on top of the receiver dryer. They're quite a bit larger than the slim ballasts, so it's harder to find a good spot for them!

[bunchi]

Is there any advantage of using the HID relay harness compared to just plugging the ballasts direct to the stock headlight harness?